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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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KAWASAKI STX-12F, STX-15F Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our race bred Supercharger System for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains all necessary engine components to produce the ultimate 80mph closed course race craft. Kit contains the same specifications that Team Kawasaki won two 2004 Pro Runabout World Titles with. System produces over 300hp using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes Vortech Supercharger & Intercooler Forged Racing Pistons, Free flow Exhaust Kit, Race programmed ECU, High volume Injectors & Fuel Pump along with all necessary hardware and detailed installation instructions. Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine (Team Kawi Spec) PERFORMANCE DATA Stock 61 MPH @ 7,600 RPM Supercharged 80+ MPH @ 8,300 RPM RIVA STX-15F OFFSHORE RACE KIT Our Offshore Racing Kit for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains the same components and specifications that Team Kawasaki developed to dominate the international racing circuit. This modification delivers over 200hp producing awesome acceleration and a top speed of over 700mph using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes high compression racing pistons, performance intake & exhaust cam shafts, Race programmed ECU along with all necessary gaskets and detailed installation instructions

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HARLEY DAVIDSON LOCKING GLOVE BOX DOOR KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Unsnap the original equipment (O.E.) left-side glove box door, and unfasten the tether by bringing the aglet end (see Figure 1, B) out through the retaining hole. Always wear proper eye protection when drilling or grinding. Flying debris could cause serious eye injury. (00402e) 2. Using an 3/16 inch (5 mm) bit positioned in the center of each snap, drill out the four plastic snaps surrounding the glove box opening. NOTE The glove box door, hinge and frame assemblies are side- specific. The assemblies install so that the tether retaining hole (C) in the door frame is to the inboard side. 3. Obtain the new left-side glove box door, hinge and frame assembly (1), a lock (2) and a tether assembly (8) from the kit. Remove the nut (3) from the lock. 4. Insert the lock through the hole in the glove box door as shown. Assemble the tether over the lock threads with the tab (A) on the inboard side of the lock, same as the retaining hole in the door frame. Tighten securely. 5. Open the left-side door, and position the door assembly at the glove box opening, lining up the holes. 6. Insert a screw (9) through each of the holes in the door frame and glove box. Install a hex nut with washer (10) onto the threads of each screw. Tighten finger-tight. NOTE Ambient temperature should be at least 60° F (16° C) for proper adhesion of the gaskets to the glove box door frame. 7. Clean the glove box door frame with a mixture of 50 to 70% isopropyl alcohol and 30 to 50% distilled water. Allow to dry thoroughly. NOTE The glove box gaskets are side-specific. With the paper backing facing the door frame, the oblong hole at the top of the gasket is to the outboard side. 8. Obtain the left-side gasket (6) and a hinge gasket (7) from the kit. Install the gaskets to the glove box door frame. a. The gasket liner on the large gasket is split to aid alignment. Peel one half of the liner from the adhesive backing of the left-side gasket. b. Using the frame edges and screw heads as a guide, carefully position the gasket to the glove box door frame and press firmly into place. c. Peel the remaining half of the liner from the gasket backing, and carefully position the rest of the gasket to the door frame. Press firmly into place. d. Apply steady pressure for a few seconds at all areas of the gasket to verify proper adhesion. e. Peel the liner from the hinge gasket. f. Carefully position the gasket to the door frame above the hinge, and press firmly into place.

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2009 Kawasaki ULTRA 250X/ 260X FUEL INJECTION CONTROLLERS And REGULATORS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The R&D high performance Air Filter Kit will improve acceleration and top speed performance by increasing air flow and reducing air temperatures that enter directly into the Ultra 250X’s air plenum box area. The O.E.M. air plenum box on the Ultra 250X is a great design that will flow plenty of air. However, the air that feeds the plenum box is heated by the engine. R&D has created an easy to install “flat filter” that installs directly in place of the large center access inspection cover located directly under the main glove box. The R&D Flat Air Filter insert will allow unrestricted fresh and cool air to enter the air plenum box area which will add power you can feel and a nice high performance tone. The R&D Performance Filter Kit also features two filters, one for each of the surge and blowoff protections valves. The O.E.M. surge valve recycles compressed hot air back into the air box plenum at idle and under deceleration conditions. The R&D surge and blowoff valve filter kit removes the air recycling hoses which will keep the hot air from entering the air plenum box reducing the engines intake air temperatures. The R&D Ultra 250X Air Filter Kit offers great performance tips on how to remove the restrictive air vent hoses which will further reduce the under seat ambient air temperatures. The R&D Filter system does not remove or alter the O.E.M. plenum box in any way, therefore there are no questions to be answered regarding water ingestion

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The Magic Box? The TRE and Low End Performance of the 2006 ZX- 14 Evaluated

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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The dawn of the internal combustion engine gave birth to motorsport, and in turn gave birth to enthusiasts, and the gearheads who tinkered with engines squeezing those last final ounces of power out of their machines in an effort to be the fastest on the block. Along with the gearheads came the inventors, promising a quick fix for those less technically inclined. Even in today’s modern world where specifically engineered computer controlled digital componentry dictates the operation of our everyday lives, enthusiasts still seek out that magic box, gadget or pill that will unleash hidden horsepower held back by a perpetual X-Files like government conspiracy. We’ve all seen the likes of it, and certainly the Internet has played (more often than not) into the hands of modern-day Snake Oil salesman, working the forums through a network of communications like “pss-t.. my buddy knows a guy who used this thing and I swear I gained 20 hp”. The inevitable debate ensues, usually ending up with a lack of hard data and the marketers throwing “seat of the pants” stories out there in an effort to sell their product. Today’s story is a little different. The release of the ZX-14 and the birth of ZX- 14.com has possibly, for the first time, brought together a group of riders and technicians who not only have the technical skill, knowledge and background, but also the facilities, industry positioning and resources to once and for all determine if today’s Magic Box, the “TRE”, lives up to its claims. Sit back and read the Tale of the TRE… Things couldn’t have been going better for Ivan Rovinsky before the ZX-14 hit the streets. As a renowned tuner and developer of his TRE, the “Timing Retard Eliminator”, Ivan had shared many years of success marketing his TRE to customers on the Internet through model specific enthusiast forums. More often than not, no one could really put their finger on exactly WHAT the TRE did, though some had their suspicions. Many riders couldn’t deny that the TRE did something, but what it did, no one was exactly sure. This left the TRE and Ivan in a sort of Internet “grey area”, him and his product being sent off into the annals of myth and folklore. Perhaps he HAD invented the Magic Box? No one was sure, but at the same time no one could state otherwise. Advertising on a few sites, but covertly marketing on others brought some heat and unwanted attention to Ivan, mostly for his unpaid advertising tactics. Disgruntled webmasters had their hands full with Ivan and his friends, even on this site, but at the same time no one could state either way as to what the TRE did, or how it did it, and certainly no one wanted to get rid of him. What if Ivan was right? You wouldn’t want to kill the goose that laid the golden egg. Two Worlds Collide When the ZX-14 community got wind that their bikes had been neutered by KHI for low end performance, readers immediately went to work to try to solve the problem, and so begins the undoing of the Ivan myth, and finally some resolution to explain exactly what happens and why. The timing couldn’t have been worse for Ivan, as he stepped into the forum of online ZX-14 chat. He had expected the same age-old response to his product; mystified acceptance . He had been down this road before, so as a seasoned veteran of underground marketing, certainly the ZX-14 would be no different…. but this time things would be different. The ZX-14 is a unique motorcycle and its owners bring a unique and distinct wealth of information to the table.

KAWASAKI Jet Ski STX-12F SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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FEATURES & BENEFITS Kawasaki 2007 SPECIFICATIONS: JT1200D7F Engine type……………… 4-stroke, water cooled, 4- cylinder Displacement…………… 1,199 cm3 Bore & stroke…………… 83.0 x 55.4 mm Compression ratio…… 11.2:1 Induction system……… DOHC 16 valve (4 valves per cylinder) Maximum power………. 92 kW (125 PS) / 7,200 r/min Maximum torque……… 125 N·m / 6,500 r/min Cooling system……….. inducted water Fuel system…………….. EFI with single 54 mm throttle Starting ……………………. electric Battery…………………….. sealed, 12V 18Ah Propulsion system…… axial flow, single stage jet pump Maximum thrust………. 3,675 N (375 kgf) Seating capacity………. 3 seater Fuel capacity…………… 62 L L x W x H…………………. 3,120 x 1,180 x 1,050 mm Dry weight……………….. 334 kg Colours……………………. Red NOTE: Specifications subject to change without notice ENGINE Ñ Chrome composite plated cylinders are lightweight, durable and quickly carry heat away from the combustion chamber and piston for supreme durability at high power output. Ñ Semi-dry sump uses a single feed oil pump. Ñ Tip over protection shuts the engine off if the craft tilts more than 61o. Ñ 4-valves per cylinder provides maximum valve area for optimum flow. Fuel system Ñ Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) with a single Mitsubishi throttle body and an injector at each intake port. Ñ Long intake tract enhances low-end power. Ñ Large capacity, low-noise airbox. Ñ Finger-type throttle reduces hand fatigue. Water-jacketed semi-dry exhaust Ñ Double-walled exhaust manifold and dual waterboxes help reduce noise. Ñ Water surrounding the exhaust system lowers engine compartment temperatures for more power. Ñ Semi-dry exhaust system keeps cooling water out of the exhaust before the waterbox to prevent water from entering the engine if the boat should capsize. Ñ Emissions meet US EPA 2006 and CARB 2008 regulations. Lanyard engine stop switch Ñ Engine will not crank with lanyard removed. Ñ Fastened to the rider, lanyard cuts the ignition if the rider dismounts. DRIVE SYSTEM Three-blade oval edge stainless steel impeller Ñ The shape of the blades give maximum efficiency with minimum cavitation. Ñ Fully enclosed impeller for damage protection. Ñ Stainless steel pump insert increases durability and helps ensure reliable performance. Ñ Tough stainless steel is used for incredible durability. HULL Ñ One-piece chopper over foam (COF) hull construction is lighter than a conventional hand-laid hull of similar size. Ñ Cab forward design makes more space for the rider and passengers. Ñ Gel coat for deep, lustrous, scratch resistant finish. Ñ Open rear deck for carrying bulky items, putting on skis, etc. Ñ
An automatically retractable boarding step makes boarding from deep water easy. Kawasaki Smart Steering (KSS) Ñ A steering sensor is linked to the EMM to aid in boat handling when the throttle is quickly released from high speed. Detail features Ñ 62 litre fuel tank for increased range. Ñ LCD instrumentation includes digital speedometer, tachometer, hour meter, clock, trip distance, trip time, fuel level and warning lamps. Ñ Includes high tech. troubleshooting function for the fuel injection system. A computer hook-up allows easy retrieval of entire troubleshooting history. Ñ A remote cooling system flushing point is included. Ñ Front hatch made of ABS for reduced weight, increased durability and enhanced appearance. Ñ Mirrors mounted on the deck reduce weight and enhance appearanced

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL LEFT SIDE LEATHER TOOL BOX KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2011

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Installation While handling and installing tool box, be careful not to scratch surface. 1. See Service Parts Illustration. Install tool box (1) to mounting bracket (6) using button head screws (2) and washers (5). Screws (2) should be inserted through mounting holes on inside of tool box (1) and then inserted through bracket (6) holes and threaded into weld nuts attached to bracket. 2. Remove and save the two screws that secure left rear fender support to motorcycle frame. 3. Remove two bolts, nuts, and washers that secure debris deflector to motorcycle frame. This will allow you to move debris deflector out of the way when installing new passenger footpeg support bolt. Save hardware for reinstallation. 4. For 1990 to 1999 Softails: If tool box is being installed with passenger footpeg, remove the hex head bolt and left passenger footpeg. Retain footpeg and lockwasher for reinstallation. Discard bolt . If tool box is being installed without passenger footpeg, remove hex head bolt and left passenger footpeg. Discard footpeg. Retain bolt and lockwasher. For 2000 and later Softails: See page 3 . Remove footrest from clevis. Remove clevis from frame by removing cap screw from center of clevis. If tool box is installed with footpegs, keep all hardware. If toolbox is to be installed with footboards, discard hardware. 5. Slide top of mounting bracket (6) between rear fender support and frame. Align top holes in bracket with fender support holes. Align lower bracket hole with footpeg mounting hole in frame. Install the two screws, removed in Step 2, in fender support. Do not tighten screws at this time. 6. For 1990 to 1999 Softails: Place lockwasher retained in step 4 on footpeg support hex head bolt (3) from kit. CAUTION 1 of 3 For 2000 and later Softails with footpegs: Install kit 49352-00 according to instructions included in this kit. Footpeg must fold up at a 45°angle (from vertical) toward rear of motorcycle. This angle allows footpeg to fold up if, by accident, it strikes the ground surface when making a sharp turn. Failure to set footpeg to the proper fold-up angle could result in death or serious injury. 7. For 1990 to 1999 Softails: Position footpeg so it folds up and back at a 45°angle. Install bolt (3) from kit through frame, tool box bracket (6), and spacer (4), into footpeg, as shown. NOTE If vehicle is equipped with saddlebag support bracket, Part No. 90346-90 or 90346-94, position saddlebag support bracket between tool box bracket and spacer.

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LED Motorcycle Power Box Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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This box requires the presence of a mounting plate secured to the motorcycle’s luggage rack. If the bike in question is not equipped with a mounting plate, one must be fabricated prior to installation of this box. Five mounting holes (.281″ dia.) are required to mount this box. If the motorcycle is already equipped with a mounting plate, it may be necessary to drill the 5 mounting holes required for this installation. Use the diagram shown to determine the precise location of these holes. 1. Position the box onto the mounting plate. Align the 5 vibration dampeners with the 5 mounting holes in the mounting plate. 2. Using the illustrations shown, secure the box to the mounting plate using the provided hardware. Note: Your luggage rack may already have the correct mounting holes drilled. Check the measurements below and if these holes already exist at the proper distance, remove any existing mounting hardware from the holes and secure the box with the supplied mounting hardware. 3. Place the box into its mounting position on the deck and secure it with the supplied mounting hardware as shown in the diagram. Wiring: Diagrams for optional equipment are found below. Refer to the diagram on the following page for general motorcycle box wiring information

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1994-1998 HONDA RVF400RR Racing Kit INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 01-12-2011

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(1)Fuel High Octane white gasoline (2)Engine Oil Recommended Oil: HONDA Ultra-GP (for four-cycle Motorbike) SAE20W-50 or 10W-40
Full Capacity: 3.0Liter (5.28pt) Oil Exchange: 2.5Liter (4.4pt) Filter Exchange: 2.4Liter (4.224pt) (3)Spark Plug NGK R 847-10(11)(4)Cooling Water Highly recommend checking the water level on each ignition/riding. Ingredient: Tapped water or Drinking water I. Unscrew a radiator cap. Apply water up to limb of intake. II. Hold steering and heave the body two or three times to let air out. III.Add water if necessary. IV. Screw the cap tighten.V. Start Engine then check water level again. Add water if necessary. < Notes for racing condition> • Keep your attention when you re-check the water level since the water would spill out of intake. Also cover the body with wastes. • Drain cooling water in a catch-tank before riding. • Drain whole water in a radiator after riding. It avoids corrosion or clog of components. • It is admitted adding coolant in winter season. Handle carefully when you apply them. It makes the circuit slippery if it drops or spilled.

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2004-2007 Kawasaki STX-15F Supercharger Kit installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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ENGINE REMOVAL: 1. Turn ignition off, remove lanyard, disconnect battery cables and remove battery. 2. Remove engine following steps outlined in section 7 of Kawasaki service manual. NOTE: Replace oil filter if engine was run previously. Please recycle used oil and oil filter. NOTE: Clear an area on a sturdy workbench or heavy-duty cart to place engine after removal. Be sure to carefully place engine on a smooth surface so as not to damage oil pan. It is recommended that you have assistance for the engine removal process. 3. Replace stock pistons, rings, piston pins, clips, cylinder head gasket and cylinder base gasket with supplied forged pistons, rings, piston pins, clips, cylinder head gasket and cylinder base gasket following the steps outlined in section 6 of the Kawasaki service manual. NOTE: This is an involved process requiring advanced mechanical skills and 4-stroke engine experience. DO NOT ATTEMPT if you are not mechanically inclined or familiar with 4-stroke engines. 4. Remove OE crankshaft coupler and discard. 5. Locate boss on PTO housing just above crankshaft. Cut off at a 45° angle. (See page 1 of Installation Images) NOTE: Cover end of crankshaft. Thoroughly clean engine afterwards. EXHAUST SYSTEM MODIFICATIONS: 6. Inside hull under rear grab handle remove air inlet tubes. Disconnect hoses for stock bilge pick-ups from breather fittings. (see illustration #1) 7. Remove exhaust hose connecting primary muffler (left water box) to secondary muffler (right water box). Disconnect remaining hoses from breather fittings. Remove exhaust hose connecting secondary water box to exhaust outlet. (see illustration #2) NOTE: Retain hose clamps. 8. Remove section of foam between top deck and pump area and discard. 9. At rear of hull remove and discard plastic exhaust outlet nozzle. Remove exhaust outlet, cut 5-3/4″ from end of flange and weld a bead around modified end of exhaust outlet. (see illustration #3) NOTE: Sand or file edge after modifying. 10. Install one supplied silicone coupler onto modified exhaust outlet and secure using OE hose clamp. (see illustration #4) Install exhaust outlet into hull and secure using stock hardware. (see illustration #5) NOTE: Be sure rubber gasket is in place between flange and hull. Do not use any sealant. Apply blue Loc-tite to bolts. Do not over tighten bolts. 11. Install supplied billet exhaust outlet tip using supplied hardware. (see illustration #6) NOTE: Apply blue Loc-tite to bolts. Do not over tighten bolts.

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