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KAWASAKI STX-12F, STX-15F Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our race bred Supercharger System for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains all necessary engine components to produce the ultimate 80mph closed course race craft. Kit contains the same specifications that Team Kawasaki won two 2004 Pro Runabout World Titles with. System produces over 300hp using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes Vortech Supercharger & Intercooler Forged Racing Pistons, Free flow Exhaust Kit, Race programmed ECU, High volume Injectors & Fuel Pump along with all necessary hardware and detailed installation instructions. Riva/Vortech Supercharged STX-15F Engine (Team Kawi Spec) PERFORMANCE DATA Stock 61 MPH @ 7,600 RPM Supercharged 80+ MPH @ 8,300 RPM RIVA STX-15F OFFSHORE RACE KIT Our Offshore Racing Kit for the Kawasaki STX-15F contains the same components and specifications that Team Kawasaki developed to dominate the international racing circuit. This modification delivers over 200hp producing awesome acceleration and a top speed of over 700mph using VP MS109 race fuel (Jet X). Kit includes high compression racing pistons, performance intake & exhaust cam shafts, Race programmed ECU along with all necessary gaskets and detailed installation instructions

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2004-2007 Kawasaki STX-15F Supercharger Kit installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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ENGINE REMOVAL: 1. Turn ignition off, remove lanyard, disconnect battery cables and remove battery. 2. Remove engine following steps outlined in section 7 of Kawasaki service manual. NOTE: Replace oil filter if engine was run previously. Please recycle used oil and oil filter. NOTE: Clear an area on a sturdy workbench or heavy-duty cart to place engine after removal. Be sure to carefully place engine on a smooth surface so as not to damage oil pan. It is recommended that you have assistance for the engine removal process. 3. Replace stock pistons, rings, piston pins, clips, cylinder head gasket and cylinder base gasket with supplied forged pistons, rings, piston pins, clips, cylinder head gasket and cylinder base gasket following the steps outlined in section 6 of the Kawasaki service manual. NOTE: This is an involved process requiring advanced mechanical skills and 4-stroke engine experience. DO NOT ATTEMPT if you are not mechanically inclined or familiar with 4-stroke engines. 4. Remove OE crankshaft coupler and discard. 5. Locate boss on PTO housing just above crankshaft. Cut off at a 45° angle. (See page 1 of Installation Images) NOTE: Cover end of crankshaft. Thoroughly clean engine afterwards. EXHAUST SYSTEM MODIFICATIONS: 6. Inside hull under rear grab handle remove air inlet tubes. Disconnect hoses for stock bilge pick-ups from breather fittings. (see illustration #1) 7. Remove exhaust hose connecting primary muffler (left water box) to secondary muffler (right water box). Disconnect remaining hoses from breather fittings. Remove exhaust hose connecting secondary water box to exhaust outlet. (see illustration #2) NOTE: Retain hose clamps. 8. Remove section of foam between top deck and pump area and discard. 9. At rear of hull remove and discard plastic exhaust outlet nozzle. Remove exhaust outlet, cut 5-3/4″ from end of flange and weld a bead around modified end of exhaust outlet. (see illustration #3) NOTE: Sand or file edge after modifying. 10. Install one supplied silicone coupler onto modified exhaust outlet and secure using OE hose clamp. (see illustration #4) Install exhaust outlet into hull and secure using stock hardware. (see illustration #5) NOTE: Be sure rubber gasket is in place between flange and hull. Do not use any sealant. Apply blue Loc-tite to bolts. Do not over tighten bolts. 11. Install supplied billet exhaust outlet tip using supplied hardware. (see illustration #6) NOTE: Apply blue Loc-tite to bolts. Do not over tighten bolts.

KAWASAKI Jet Ski STX-12F SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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FEATURES & BENEFITS Kawasaki 2007 SPECIFICATIONS: JT1200D7F Engine type……………… 4-stroke, water cooled, 4- cylinder Displacement…………… 1,199 cm3 Bore & stroke…………… 83.0 x 55.4 mm Compression ratio…… 11.2:1 Induction system……… DOHC 16 valve (4 valves per cylinder) Maximum power………. 92 kW (125 PS) / 7,200 r/min Maximum torque……… 125 N·m / 6,500 r/min Cooling system……….. inducted water Fuel system…………….. EFI with single 54 mm throttle Starting ……………………. electric Battery…………………….. sealed, 12V 18Ah Propulsion system…… axial flow, single stage jet pump Maximum thrust………. 3,675 N (375 kgf) Seating capacity………. 3 seater Fuel capacity…………… 62 L L x W x H…………………. 3,120 x 1,180 x 1,050 mm Dry weight……………….. 334 kg Colours……………………. Red NOTE: Specifications subject to change without notice ENGINE Ñ Chrome composite plated cylinders are lightweight, durable and quickly carry heat away from the combustion chamber and piston for supreme durability at high power output. Ñ Semi-dry sump uses a single feed oil pump. Ñ Tip over protection shuts the engine off if the craft tilts more than 61o. Ñ 4-valves per cylinder provides maximum valve area for optimum flow. Fuel system Ñ Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) with a single Mitsubishi throttle body and an injector at each intake port. Ñ Long intake tract enhances low-end power. Ñ Large capacity, low-noise airbox. Ñ Finger-type throttle reduces hand fatigue. Water-jacketed semi-dry exhaust Ñ Double-walled exhaust manifold and dual waterboxes help reduce noise. Ñ Water surrounding the exhaust system lowers engine compartment temperatures for more power. Ñ Semi-dry exhaust system keeps cooling water out of the exhaust before the waterbox to prevent water from entering the engine if the boat should capsize. Ñ Emissions meet US EPA 2006 and CARB 2008 regulations. Lanyard engine stop switch Ñ Engine will not crank with lanyard removed. Ñ Fastened to the rider, lanyard cuts the ignition if the rider dismounts. DRIVE SYSTEM Three-blade oval edge stainless steel impeller Ñ The shape of the blades give maximum efficiency with minimum cavitation. Ñ Fully enclosed impeller for damage protection. Ñ Stainless steel pump insert increases durability and helps ensure reliable performance. Ñ Tough stainless steel is used for incredible durability. HULL Ñ One-piece chopper over foam (COF) hull construction is lighter than a conventional hand-laid hull of similar size. Ñ Cab forward design makes more space for the rider and passengers. Ñ Gel coat for deep, lustrous, scratch resistant finish. Ñ Open rear deck for carrying bulky items, putting on skis, etc. Ñ
An automatically retractable boarding step makes boarding from deep water easy. Kawasaki Smart Steering (KSS) Ñ A steering sensor is linked to the EMM to aid in boat handling when the throttle is quickly released from high speed. Detail features Ñ 62 litre fuel tank for increased range. Ñ LCD instrumentation includes digital speedometer, tachometer, hour meter, clock, trip distance, trip time, fuel level and warning lamps. Ñ Includes high tech. troubleshooting function for the fuel injection system. A computer hook-up allows easy retrieval of entire troubleshooting history. Ñ A remote cooling system flushing point is included. Ñ Front hatch made of ABS for reduced weight, increased durability and enhanced appearance. Ñ Mirrors mounted on the deck reduce weight and enhance appearanced

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Kawasaki Ultra/ STX-R Billet Head Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove stock head and clean the top surface of the cylinder. 2) Remove the stock water fittings from the stock head and install them in the ADA head in the same order. 3) Install all o’rings in the ADA billet head, use small amounts of grease to hold them in place, do not use super glue or silicone. 4) Apply a small amount of grease to the small (OR020) o’ring at the top of the dome. This will allow the dome to easily slip into the head shell. Be careful when turning the head upside down to install onto the cylinder, as the domes can slide out of the head shell. 5) Make sure all the o’rings are in place and place the head on top of the cylinder with the water outlets on the top side. You must be sure that none of the o’rings slip out of their groove, as this will cause an o’ring to get pinched and a water or compression leak could result. 6) Use the additional 8mm flat washers on the taller studs, along with the stock wash- ers. 7) Torque all of the nuts to 15ft/lbs, in a center-out criss-cross pattern. Now, torque them again to 18ft/lbs. 8) After the 1st time out riding the head should be re-torqued

Suspension Basics for BMW Motorcycles

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 30-11-2010

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tires: Tires are the first part of any suspension system. The design of the tire and even the pressure you run can have a profound affect on the way your motorcycle handles. Stiff, low profile tires will give a sharper feel to the bike, as will higher tire pressures. Those of us who ride our GS’s off the road will decrease the tire pressure to about 50% of the street spec when we are in the dirt. The tire then becomes a very active part of the suspension, but will wallow like an old pig if not re-inflated when pressed back into pavement duty. It still surprises me when we have a customer complain that his BMW needs new shocks when they come in with nearly flat tires. It is possible that the best dollars-per- unit improvement you can make to your BMW may be in keeping the tires inflated. Chassis: There is not much that we can do about the chassis design, unless we are Troy the Welder, but it is a fact that different frames and swing arms flex differently and therefore are part of the suspension. On the Airheads, we often braced various parts of the frame and swing arms, resulting in improved handling that even mere mortals could appreciate. On the latest BMW’s it would take the likes of a Valentino Rossi to even notice if the parts were stiffened. Stiffer is not always better. One of the Japanese racing bike manufactures controls the stiffness of the frame in various areas to allow some flex for better handling. So, Mr. Rossi might not even like it if Troy stiffened his new BMW. Springs: Springs control the ride height of the motorcycle and the ability to allow for different loads. On most BMW’s there is a way to adjust the spring preload to some extent so that the ride can be optimized for a light rider or two-up operation with luggage. Dampers: Dampers control the speed and frequency at which the suspension operates by changing the kinetic (moving) energy to thermal (heat) energy. Without the damper, the suspension would oscillate as each movement occurred, resulting in decreased vehicle control. Dampers on BMW’s fall into two main groups. On airheads, older K bikes, F and G models, and the R1200 HP-2, the front dampers are integrated into the forks. On the rear of the above mentioned -3 – models, and on both ends of all the rest of the bikes, there is a more common shock absorber, around which the spring is located. The HP-2 uses an air spring and air dampened rear shock. Seat: OK, folks, this is here for my old buddy Jeff. We know that a seat isn’t part of suspension, but a bad one sure can make you miserable. We have sent dozens of seats to our friend Mike Harris for inexpensive mods that might improve your riding enjoyment more than any suspension changes you could make! Let us know if we can help you with this most important item

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Tacoma Power Steering Pump Improving Power Steering Reservoir modification

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 02-10-2011

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For my SAS I decided to add hydraulic steering assist as it comes in real handy for rock crawling. I got the Redneck Ram setup from the folks at West Texas Off-road that includes rebuilding an earlier IFS steering box along with drilling and tapping the box for the included ram. One of the down sides of adding a ram is that it slows the steering down because the stock steering pump has to supply the added volume for the hydraulic ram. Another is that it creates a fluid volume change in the system reservoir that needs to be compensated for in some way. After doing some reading on the West Texas site about how to go about modifying a Saginaw pump and reading up on earlier Toyota pump mods for steering assist setups on the Pirate board, I decided to give it whirl and see what I could do about the Tacoma pump. Chuck Gardella was kind enough to supply me with a blown pump that I could rebuild and submit to my endless fiddling and tinkering. I plan to give him my pump in return when I get this one done and installed. You need to do something to allow for more room in the reservoir for the standard hydraulic ram assist setup so I decided to tackle the reservoir first. The reason you need the extra space is because the ram is unbalanced. That is there is a rod on one side of the cylinder and not on the other side so the volume of the fluid has to change in the system to account for the volume of the rod as it travels back and forth. I calculated the volume of the rod that I have at full stroke to be about 2 oz or so. This would equate to plus or minus up to 2 oz. in the pump reservoir. Well first off, it’s no wonder why so many folks boil their steering pumps over with heavy wheeling and have so many other steering problems. The stock power steering reservoir doesn’t even rate pint sized

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