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HARLEY DAVIDSON TOURING LAYBACK LICENSE PLATE MOUNTING KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2011

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This kit fits all 1999 and later FLHR (Road King®) models, FLTR (Road Glide®) and FLHT (Electra Glide® standard) models having license plates measuring a maximum of 7-1/4 x 4-1/4 inches (184 x 108 mm). Also fits 2003 FLHRSEI2 (Screamin’ Eagle® Road King). Does not fit with Detachable Tour-Pak Rack, part number 53276-04. Does not fit 2002 FLHRSEI (Screamin’ Eagle Road King). Kit Contents See Figure 1. INSTALLATION 1. Remove the license plate from the vehicle (if installed). Remove the two hex head bolts holding the original equipment (O.E.) license-plate bracket in place. The bolts and license-plate bracket can be discarded. 2. See Figure 1. Install the new layback license plate holder (1) using the button-head hex socket screws (3) from the kit. Tighten the screws to 19 ft-lbs (25.8 Nm) . 4 1 3 7 5 2 6 is02737 1. License plate holder, layback 2. Foam pad (6) 3. Screw, button head, hex socket (2) 4. License plate frame 5. Set screw, socket head (2) 6. Hex key 7. Reflector assembly, Part Number 59365-07 Figure 1. Layback License Plate Mount Components 3. Position the license plate onto the foam pads (2) of the license plate holder, centering and aligning the plate parallel to the holder edges for best appearance. NOTE Slots in the inside top edge of the license plate frame (4) fit over the two tabs on the top edge of the license plate holder. 4. Hook the top of the license plate frame over the top edge of the holder. Swing the bottom edge of the frame inward, holding the license plate in position against the pads. 5. Use the hex key (6) from the kit to securely fasten the license plate frame to the holder with the two socket head set screws (5)

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HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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4-STROKE TRIUMPH SINGLE CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA REAR STOP/ TAIL/ TURN SIGNAL RELOCATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-03-2011

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PREPARATION NOTE Position the motorcycle upright using a suitable lift or jack. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow instructions to remove the main fuse. 2. Follow the service manual instructions to remove the seat. 3. Raise the rear of the vehicle to allow access to the underside of the rear fender. LICENSE BRACKET AND ILLUMINATOR REMOVAL For Models WITHOUT a Center Tail Lamp NOTE See Figure 1. The reflector mounting block (2) is held to the fender (1) with double sided tape. Remove with care to avoid scratching paint. 1 3 2 5 4 6 7 is06256 1. Rear fender 2. Rear reflector and mounting block 3. Wire channel (2) 4. License plate bracket mount 5.5/16-18 screw (2) 6. License plate illuminator 7. M4 screw (2) Figure 1. Rear Fender, Models Without Center Tail Lamp 1. Remove the rear reflector and mounting block (2) from the underside of the rear fender (1). 2. Remove the license plate from the vehicle (if installed). Retain the plate and attaching hardware. NOTE Before removing rear wiring, note wire routing. -J04856 1 of 10 3. Remove the rear lamp wiring from behind the wire channels (3) on the underside of the fender. 4. Disconnect the two-way license lamp connector [93] and the four-way right [18] and left [19] stop/tail/turn (STT) lamp connectors from the STT module in the area under the seat. 5. Remove the two 5/16-18 screws (5) retaining the license plate bracket mount assembly (4) to the fender support. 6. Remove the license plate illuminator (6) from the license plate bracket mount assembly. Save the illuminator. The bracket mount (4) and four screws (5, 7) can be discarded. 7. Proceed to License Bracket and Illuminator Assembly . For Models WITH a Center Tail Lamp NOTE On these models, the license plate illuminator is part of the center tail lamp and is not removed. 1. Remove the three screws retaining the license plate bracket to the tail lamp housing. Remove the bracket and set aside for later assembly. 2. Proceed to Rear Lamp Wiring, For Models WITH a Center Tail Lamp and RED Stop/Turn Signals or AMBER Turn Signals . LICENSE BRACKET AND ILLUMINATOR ASSEMBLY For Models WITHOUT a Center Tail Lamp 1. See Figure 7. Get the new license plate bracket (3), illuminator cover (4), spacer (6) and two M4 screws (5) from the kit, and the license plate illuminator (A) removed from the original equipment (OE) license plate bracket. 2. See Figure 2. Assemble the illuminator (1), spacer (2) and cover (3) to the license plate bracket (5) in the sequence shown, and tighten the screws (4) securely. 3. Get the STT relocation weldment (6), two screws (7) and two flat washers (8) from the kit. 4. Apply a few drops of Loctite 271 – Red to the clean screw threads. Assemble the license plate bracket to the weldment as shown, and tighten the screws to 120 in-lbs (13.6 N-m) . NOTE If using a metal tool to install the black nuts, protect the finish with cloth or paper to prevent damage. 5. Loosely install the black painted nuts (9) onto the threaded studs on each side of the STT relocation weldment. 6. Remove the wires and socket terminals from the two-way license plate illuminator socket housing. Set the socket housing aside for later installation

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SUZUKI 1400/ 800 INTRUDER TURN SIGNAL RELOCATION INSTALLATION AND CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Refer to Figure 1. 2. Remove seat. Safety: disconnect battery prior to all wiring modifications LeatherLyke 510 5/1/2009 3. Disconnect wires to turn signals. 4. Remove turn signals and retain hardware for reinstallation. Observe and mark “left” and “right” for reinstallation. Information: Do not remove license plate bracket . 5. Remove license plate. Turn signal bracket must be oriented with flange (side with only 2 holes) on top. 6. Install turn signal bracket behind license plate bracket and license plate using 6 x 35mm pan phil machine screws for the 800 or 6 x 20mm pan phil machine screws for the 1400, 1/4″ flat washers, and 6mm locknuts. Insert black spacer spool between license plate bracket and turn signal bracket. 7. Mount turn signals directly to turn signal bracket using 6 x 10mm hex cap screws and star lock washer. Information: Observe all color-coding of wires and splice one wire at a time. 8. Cut each turn signal wires three inches from end and splice 10 inches of supplied wire. Secure wires to inner fender clips. 9. Follow route of tail light wires and connect wires into harness. 10. Secure wires together behind license plate bracket with tie wrap. 11. Connect battery and test turn signals for function. 12. Install seat. Information: Not all license plate mounts are grounded. In some cases, it may be necessary to run a ground wire to turn signal bracket. WARNING: States may have minimum width requirements on motorcycle turn- signals, so check your local laws. LeatherLyke 510 5/1/2009 SADDLEBAG INSTALLATION 13. Refer to Figure 2. Information: Cover plates are pressed into strut. 14. Remove round cover plate at end of fender mount strut on right side. 15. Remove nut on right rear and replace with 1.2″ hex adapter. If hex adapter is less than flush with the outside of both fender struts, add a 5/16″ flat washer. 16. Assemble 5 x 30mm flathead screw and 5mm mounting spool with chamfer on spool under head of screw. Insert assembly thru 1 1/4″ fender washer for the 1400 or 1″ for the 800. 17. Install spool assembly into previously installed 1.2” hex adapter. Information: Do not remove washer on shock absorber. Hex adapter will protrude 1/4″ beyond fender strut. 18. Remove round cover plate over right rear shock, remove shock absorber nut and install .75″ hex adapter. 19. Assemble 5 x 30mm flathead screw, mounting spool and cup washer with chamfer on spool under head of screw. 20. Install spool assembly into previously installed hex adapter. 21. Insert 5/8” finishing plug into old turn signal hole on right side. 22. Repeat procedures on opposite side

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BMW Motorcycles R 850/ R 1100 Series and K 1200 RS – New Clutch and Pressure Plate

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Details: All R 850/R 1100 and K 1200 RS models produced from December 1997 have received a new clutch disc, manufactured by VALEO, and a new pressure plate (see applicable part numbers below). Earlier production for both series can be fitted with the new parts. However, due to changes in specifications (a thicker pressure plate, a thinner clutch disc), the new VALEO clutch disc is not compatible with the old pressure plate. In this application, the new clutch disc and pressure plate must be replaced as a pair. Series Production: R 850/R1100 models: Starting with December 1997 production. K 1200 RS: Starting with December 1997 production. Part Number: R 850/R1100 Models: VALEO Clutch Disc: 21 21 2 325 864 Used only in conjunction with Pressure Plate: 21 21 2 325 863 R 850/R1100 models: VALEO Clutch Disc with reduced play on gearbox input shaft (KD – Scheibe): 21 21 2 325 862 Used only in conjunction with Pressure Plate: 21 21 2 325 863 K 1200 RS: VALEO Clutch Disc: 21 21 2 332 973 Used only in conjunction with Pressure Plate: 21 21 2 332 974 Attention: For R 850/R1100 and K 1200 RS models with production dates of 12/97 and later, all clutch parts can be replaced individually, as the new pressure plate will already be installed. On earlier production examples, installing the new VALEO clutch disc without replacing the pressure plate will not allow the clutch to completely disengage.

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ULTIMA IGNITION MODULE AND KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

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YAMAHA XS650H/ SH Supplementary Service Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Ignition timing check 1. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the rotor pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate. The timing plate is marked as follows. “ll” Firing range for No. 1 (L.H.) “T” Top Dead Center for No. 1, fL.H.1 cylinder 2. Connect the timing light to the left cylinder spark plug lead wire. 3. Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed. B. PICK-UP COIL ASSEMBLY The method of mounting the pick-up coil assembly is changed for easier service work. Thus, the followings “Pick-up coil assembly removal” and “Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation” should be changed. Pick-up coil assembly removal Remove the pick-up coil securing screws and remove the pick-up coil assembly. Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation Install the pick-up coil assembly on to the stator assembly. _ L 4. Specified engine speed: 1,200 r/min The rotor pointer should be within the limits of ” fl ” on the timing plate. If it exceeds the limits or does not steady, check the timing plate for tight- ness and/or ignition system for damage. NOTE: Ignition timing is not adjustable. C. FUEL LEVEL The carburetor is furnished with a drain screw to provide easy access to service work. Thus, the following “Fuel level measurement” should be added. Fuel level measurement NOTE: Before checking the fuel level, note the follow- ing: 1. Place the motorcycle on a level surface. 2. Adjust the motorcycle position by placing a suitable stand or a garage jack under the engine so that the carburetor is positioned vertically. 1. 2. Connect the level gauge (special tool) or a vinyl pipe of 6 mm (0.24 in) in inside diameter to the float bowl nozzle left or right side carburetor. Set the gauge as shown and loosen the drain screw 3. Start the engine and stop it after a few minutes of run. This procedure is neces- sary to obtain the correct fuel level. NOTE: Make sure the fuel petcock is “ON” or “RES” oosition. 4. Note the fuel level and bring the gauge to the other end of the carburetor line and repeat step 3 above. Note the fuel level again and compare it with the previous gauge reading. They should be equal. If not, place a suitable size of wooden piece or the. alike under the center stand and adjust. 5. Check the fuel level one by one. The level should be in the specified range.

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON 1979-Later Big Twin CONVERSION INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-03-2012

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Turn ignition switch to the OFF position. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery. 2) Disconnect the wire at the coil which runs down to the points. Remove the point cover plate. 3) Note the position of the slots in the point plate. When the Mallory UNILITEfi plate is installed, use the position of the slots to approximate the timing. 4) Remove the wire to the points. Remove the O.E. standoffs and washers. Remove the point plate assembly. 5) Remove the O.E. cam sleeve from the advance assembly. Place a small amount of oil on the advance shaft which supported the cam sleeve. 6) Slide the Mallory shutter wheel onto the advance shaft. Make sure the shutter wheel is all the way down into the advance assembly (it will only go one way due to the roll pin in the advance assembly). 7) Install the advance and shutter wheel into the nose cone. Make sure that the pin on the bottom of the advance engages the slot on the end of the camshaft. Apply Loctite to the threads and install the advance bolt. Torque to 25 in.lb. 8) Rotate the shutter wheel by hand (counter-clockwise) and release. It should rotate about 10 degrees and “snap” back when released. 9) Install the two Mallory standoffs. Place Loctite on the threads and torque to 16 in.lb. Do not use any washers with the standoffs. 10) Start the three wires of the Mallory UNILITEfi Module through the hole in the nose cone housing. (The module goes in towards the advance assembly with the flat plate outward). Pull on the three wires to remove any slack and prevent the wires from rubbing on the shutter wheel. 11) Rotate the UNILITEfi plate assembly until the slots in the plate are in the same position as the point plate was. This should make the timing close enough to start the engine. Slide the two Mallory 8-32 sleeve nuts (supplied) through the UNILITEfi plate and onto the male threads of the Mallory standoffs. Tighten the sleeve nuts just enough to prevent the plate from moving. 14) Route the wires from the UNILITEfi Module to the ignition coil, carefully avoiding the exhaust system. Connect the red wire to the positive (+) terminal (12 volts) on the coil. Connect the green wire to the negative (ñ) terminal on the coil (where the point wire was connected). Connect the brown wire to ground. The best place for the brown wire is the negative (ñ) post on the battery, however, any part of the frame or engine which is grounded to the battery will work

1994-2003 Suzuki GSXR750 and 1997-2004 Suzuki GSXR600 Superbike Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 10-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our Superbike kit: You should have 2 lines (front kit), 1 double banjo bolt and 2 lower adapters. There are also a total of 7 washers. 5 will be used, and 2 are spares. We strongly suggest having a professional mechanic install these brake lines; all other installations VOID warranty. Inspect your brake system after every race. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process is messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: Uninstall stock hoses; be aware of how the stock system was routed in case you need to re-install it. Step 4: Install the Galfer adapters onto the right and left calipers. Thread each adapter into the calipers with one washer, and torque at 12 to 13 ft pounds. (See picture S4) Step 5: Install the right and left lines to the calipers, using the shorter line on the right side. These lines will travel from the master cylinder to the calipers; a double banjo bolt (see picture S5) is included to run two lines down. The positioning sequence on the master cylinder is as follows: Master cylinder, washer, straight banjo (from right line), washer, 12-degree banjo (from left line), washer, and double banjo hex. Double banjo bolt torque level is 12 FT Pounds. ( See picture S6) Make sure that the 90-degree fittings on each caliper are pointing away from the bike just a little bit (see pictures S7 through S9 of calipers) . Thread each banjo end into the adapter, and torque to 6 ½ Ft pounds. Before you proceed to the next step, please check for clearance of the lines. Compress the front end to make sure that the lines are not binding with anything. When the front end is fully extended or fully compressed, double check that the lines are traveling correctly and clear from any obstructions. Once the lines have been checked for clearance, we recommend using a zip-tie to bring the lines together about an inch above the lower triple clamp area. (Picture S10) Step 6: Bleed brake system according to owner’s manual, and build appropriate pressure. Finishing with DOT 4-brake fluid is recommended.

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