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Suzuki DRZ 400E & Kawasaki KLX400E Dual Sport Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 13-02-2012

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1. Remove the seat, side panels, and fuel tank. Kill switch connector Photo 1 2. Unplug and remove the stock headlight. 3. Unplug and remove the stock kill button. See Photo 1. 4. Unplug and remove the stock taillight. Using a utility knife, trim the taillight mounting tabs flush with the underside of the fender. 5. Taillight Installation: Attach the provided LED taillight to the under side of the rear fender using the provided countersunk mounting hardware as shown in Photo 2. Route the taillight wires forward to the area on top of the airbox along the right side of the fender. Secure the taillight wires to the taillight plastic with zip-ties so the tire cannot make contact. Photo 2 6. Rear Turn Signal Installation: Attach the rear turn signals to the flat portions on the sides of the LED taillight. Position them so they are out of the path of the exhaust. Route the wires forward securing with zip-ties. Route the right turn signal wires and the taillight wires around the front of the muffler mount and between the fender and the black plastic splashguard as shown in Photo 3. Route Right Turn Signal & Taillight wires here Photo 3 Page 3 of 10
7. Brake Light Switch Installation: This step requires bleeding the rear brake. If you do not feel comfortable performing this step please refer it to a qualified mechanic. Installation: Remove the guard that protects the rear master cylinder and reservoir. Temporarily remove the bolt that secures the brake reservoir to the frame. Remove the bolt that holds the banjo fitting to the top of the rear master cylinder. Replace this bolt with the provided hydraulic switch retaining the upper and lower crush washers as shown in Photo 4. Bleeding the Brakes: Do not begin this process without a fresh bottle of brake fluid. Remove the lid from the brake fluid reservoir. Put the box end of 8mm wrench over the brake bleed nipple and install the bleed hose (supplied) tightly over the nipple. Position the loop on the hose above the nipple as shown in Photo 5 with the other end of the hose in a container to catch the fluid. Crack the bleed nipple open about 1/8 to a quarter turn keeping the loop in the hose vertical. Slowly depress the brake pedal to fill the hose with fluid. Pump slowly until you have brake fluid extending up into the loop, then you can pump the pedal fairly aggressively to drive air out of the system – The fluid above the bleed nipple will prevent air from re-entering the system. DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR GO DRY – ADD FLUID AS NEEDED. Pump the pedal until there are no more bubbles, and then close the nipple with the wrench. Double check that the pedal is firm and the brake works properly.

Harley Davidson Softail Drive Side Brake System Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-03-2012

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Removing The Stock Components Although the PM Drive Side Brake System can be installed with the swing arm bolted to the frame, we recommend removing it for better access as well as repainting. Begin by removing rear wheel,stock brake components and belt guard from swing arm. Photo #1 Using supplied 3/4 x 2″bolt,position Drive Side BrakeAssembly on swing arm. Slide assembly to center position of tab and axle spans. Making sure brake mounting tabs are flush with swing arm,snug 3/4 x 2″ bolt to hold assembly and mark swing arm area to be ground Photo #2 . Remove entire assembly from swing arm and thoroughly grind paint away from marked areas Photo #3 . Photo #4 Re-mount assembly to swing arm and slide to rear-most position of both axle and brake mounting tabs. Confirm that brake tabs are flush with swing arm and parallel to each other. Snug 3/4 x 2″bolt and 5/16″socket head cap screws in tabs to hold assembly during welding process. Warning Center the motorcycle on the lift so that it will not fall while you are working on it. Photo #6 Photo #5 Photo #7 Photo #9 Welding Tabs to Swing Arm Note PM recommends all welding be done by a certified welder. Photo #5 Tack weld rear of tabs to swing arm. Avoid excessive welding near brake as- sembly as heat can mar finish. Loosen socket head cap screws and 3/4″bolt,Slide entire assembly to forward most position and re tighten bolts Photo #6 (movement should require minimal effort if tabs are aligned properly) and tack front of tabs to swing arm. Remove brake assembly from swing arm. Weld tabs to swing arm.Verify alignment of tabs, as they must remain parallel to each other. Repaint swing arm and re-install on bike to factory torque specs. Installing Brake Assembly Remove primary bracket from tower assembly (this allows bracket to be installed without having to line up caliper on disc) by removing the three 5/16″socket head cap screws (commonly called allen bolts). Photo #7 Mount rear tire and bolt pulley to rear wheel. Place disassembled bracket against pulley using smaller of two supplied spacers between bracket and pulley. Slide wheel/brake assembly into swing arm. Place large spacer on right side and slide axle in. Do not tighten axle at this point . Photo #8 Slide caliper/tower assembly over disc and install 5/16″x 1″socket head cap screw in center hole to position assembly Photo #9 . Snug, but do not tighten bolt at this point.

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POLINI XP 65 R USE AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The following instructions give the most practical order for assembling the various parts of your motorcycle. 1- Remove the motorcycle from the crate (photo 1). 2- Remove all the parts needed to reassemble the motorcycle from the crate and check them thoroughly (photo 2). WASHER 6X18X1 No. 4 PLASTIC TIE No. 1 FRONT WHEEL SPINDLE No. 1 WHEEL SPINDLE SPACER No. 1 M12 WHEEL SPINDLE NUT No. 1 FOOTREST SPRING No. 2 TCEI SCREW M8X40 No. 2 TB SCREW M6X16 No. 4 TBEI SCREW M6X40 No. 1 NUMBER PLATE No. 1 NUMBER PLATE SPACER No. 1 RIGHT FOOTREST No. 1 LEFT FOOT REST No. 1 M8 SELF-LOCKING NUT No. 2 TCEI SCREW M8X75 No. 4 HANDLEBAR CLAMP No. 2 HANDLEBAR CLAMP SPACER No. 4 HANDLEBAR WITH FOAM ROLLNo. 1 FRONT WHEEL WITH DISK No. 1 FRONT MUDGUARD No. 1 3- Fit the rear shock-absorber, using the M10 hexagonal head screw and the two washers with the M10 nut. Fit one of the washers at the bolt side and the other at the nut side. The nut, bolt, spacers and washers have been pre-fitted in their seats on the swinging arm (photos 3). 4- Open the front brake disk pads. 5- Fit the front wheel using the special spindle; fit the spacer on the disk side of the wheel 6- Insert the spindle and the nut and tighten with a torque wrench (See section 6.2 ) (photo n.4). 1 2 3 XP65R_instructions.qxd 5-09-2007 10:45 Pagina 3
7- Tighten the spindle locking bolt with a torque wrench (See section 6.2 ) (photo 5). 8- Inflate the front and rear tyres (See section 4.12 ). 9- Fit the front mudguard with the provided 4 screws and the TBM6X16 washers (photo 6). 10- Cut the transport tie securing the front brake master cylinder. Fit the handlebar and fix it to the top fork with the two handlebar clamps and the four Allen bolts M8X75 (See section 6.2 ) (photo 7). 11- Regulate the front fork height as per photo No. 8 (see section 6.2 for tightening torque) ATTENTION! For safety reasons the front fork must be extracted within notch No. 4 (minimum) and No. 5 (maximum) (photo No. 8). 12- Remove the throttle control cover and fit the cable as shown in photo 9. Re-fit the cover. (See section 4.9 ). 13- Fit the front brake lever and secure the clamp with the provided screws 14- Fit the engine stop button and fix it to the handlebar with its mounting clamp 15- Fit the clutch lever and adjust the travel of the lever as you prefer using the regulator (photo 10) (See section 4.11 ). Fit the number plate fixing it with the related spacers and screw TBEI M6X40 and insert the front brake cable in the slide. 16- Fit the footrests (photo 11) 17- Fill the engine coolant circuit (See sections 4.5 and 4.6 ) (photo 12)

HONDA VTX1300 AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the rider and passenger seats, left chrome side cover & original horn located at the top of the radiator. 2. Locate the supplied black horn mounting bracket and supplied smaller hose clamp. Notice the slight twist in the bracket. Using 2 adjustable wrenches or a vise and one wrench remove the twist from the bracket. Route the hose clamp thru the bracket. (As shown in photo 1A) 3. Install the bracket on to the left frame tube, (As shown in photo 1A) and tighten securely. Bolt the supplied horns to the bracket using the supplied bolt, lock washer and nut, (As shown in photo 1) and tighten securely. Install the supplied trumpet covers (As shown in photo 1B) by flexing the spring clips over the trumpets. Check that they fit securely. If not remove covers, make sure the center screw is tight and bend spring clips in towards center of covers and re-install. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two supplied hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns cut a new piece of hose 3 ½” long from the hose and replace the short hose on the “Y”. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly with the short hose going on the long or upper trumpet. (See photo 1C) Re-route the original horn wires. (As shown in photo 1D) 4. From the supplied wire cut 2 pieces 28″ long. Strip ¼” of insulation from both ends. Crimp 2 supplied male terminals to one end and 2 supplied female spade terminals to the other end. Plug the male ends into the original horns wires. (As shown in 1D) Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y”. Tape the hose and wires together every 6-8″ using electrical tape to make routing easier and neater. Route the wires and hose up under the fuel tank, over the cylinder heads coming out between the frame rails at the rear of the fuel tank. (See photo 2A) Locate the supplied relay and plug the 2 wires from the original horn onto terminals 85 & 86 on the relay. (See wiring diagram on back of last page of instructions) This will be the 2 outer terminals that are parallel to each other. Locate the supplied fuse, holder & wire assembly. Crimp a supplied fork terminal to one end and a supplied female spade to the other. Attach the spade terminal to one of the remaining outer relay terminals. (#30 or 87 on wiring diagram) Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the battery top cover. Remove the cover and attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the positive (+) terminal. Re-install the battery cover. 5. Cut a wire 9″ long and strip ¼” insulation from each end, crimp a fork to one end and a female spade to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors negative (-) terminal. Cut another wire 18″ long and strip both ends. Crimp a female spade to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressor positive (+) terminal. Route the air hose out under the left side cover as shown in photo (3). Hold the compressor in place against the frame tube. Note: Looking at the large end of the compressor the space between the hose fitting and the bolt mounting flange forms a “V” shape. This is where the compressor should rest against the frame. Next loop the hose around to the compressor hose fitting and trim the hose to the desired length. Attach the hose to the compressor. Secure the compressor to the frame using 2 large supplied cable ties as shown. 6. (See photo 3A) Attach the compressor negative (-) wire to the bolt on the frame (As shown in photo 3B) Route the compressor positive (+) wire along the side up to the relay and attach to the remaining outer terminal 87 or 30. Cable tie the relay in place. (As shown in photo 2B) Use several of the supplied short cable ties to secure the compressor wires to the air hose (As shown in photo 3) as wells as any other loose wire or hose.

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Yamaha Road Star Forward Control Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Before starting to assemble this forward kit on your motorcycle check the packing list to make sure that the kit you received is the correct one for your model motorcycle and that the foot pegs are the style you ordered (billet or ISO). Next check the contents hardware kit P.N.0109-1000 against the packing list for completeness. Installing The Shift Control Photo 1 Remove wires from horn. Remove the two hex head bolts (Save for later installation) that mount the OEM shift controls to your motorcycle. Unthread stock shift rod at trans shift arm, leaving OEM rod end connected to stock shift arm. Using Original Metric hardware, place a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the bolt threads and mount the shift control plate to the motorcycle frame, Photo 2. FORWARD CONTROL KIT PM SHIFT CONTROL ASSEMBLY Note Before torquing the shift control mounting bolts down, tighten them snug and look behind the shift control mounting plate to where it contacts the mounting lug on the frame. Make sure it fits squarely to the lug before proceeding further. Torque the two shift control mounting bolts down to 25 ft-lb. Using a 3/8″ x 1″ hex head bolt with a lock and flat washer put a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) on the threads and insert the bolt through the rear of the control mounting plate and attach the foot-peg pivot to it. Tighten the bolt while holding the footpeg pivot so that its hinge is lined up in a 45˚ rear facing angle. Thread supplied shift rod coupler to stock shift rod end at trans arm. Mount the shift pedal to the other end of the shift ro d using a 5/16″ x 1″ socket head screw and Nylocnut . Adjust the transmission shift linkage so that the shift arm on the forward controls and the shift arm on the transmission are parallel. Secure it with the jam nuts. Apply a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the threads under the jam nut before tightening see Photo 3 After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use. A Shim Washer PHOTO 4 A B C D PHOTO 5 A PHOTO 6 PHOTO 7 Note For complete brake system removal instructions and precau – tions refer to the appropriate service manual for your year and model motorcycle

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Pulsar XR 650R ELECTRIC-START KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Pulsar) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, side panels, muffler, and headers. 2. Disconnect the stator wires from their corresponding mates underneath the seat (trace the wires up from the left side case.) Un-route the stator wiring so it hangs free from the left side case. 3. Remove the stock shift lever and the left side engine case cover. You do not need to drain the oil from the engine. 4. Unbolt and remove the stator and wiring from the stock cover. Do not cut any wires. 5. The stock pulsar coil (small black box hanging from the stator) will have to be modified slightly to clear the ring gear before installation into the new cover. Remove (file or grind) about .030 inches of material from the base of the pulsar coil so that the base is flush with the face of the rest of the coil as shown in Photos 1 and 2. File Here Photo 2 Make flush with this surface Remove material here Photo 1 6. Install the stator and modified pulsar coil into the new engine case cover as shown in Photo 3. Use the three provided Phillips head bolts, split lock-washers, and plastic cable clamps to secure the wiring as shown. You will need to pull about ½” of extra wire through the grommet (Photo 4) to give you enough wire length for the grommet to sit in its case cutout. To do this, remove the electrical tape from the end of the stator wires and pull each wire individually through the grommet. Neither of the stock metal wire guides will be used when reinstalling the stator into the new case (Photo 5). 5/16″ cable clamps 1/8″ cable clamp Photo 3 Photo 5 Not Used Pull extra wire through grommet Photo 4 7. Remove the stock flywheel nut (An air impact tool works best to remove this nut without turning the motor). Remove the flywheel using the flywheel puller provided. 8. Locate the T and F marks on the stock flywheel (Photo 6). The T mark is used to adjust valve clearances and its location needs to be transferred to the ring gear. Scribe a line in the edge of the flywheel in line with the T mark as shown in Photo 7

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1994-2003 Suzuki GSXR750 and 1997-2004 Suzuki GSXR600 Superbike Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 10-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our Superbike kit: You should have 2 lines (front kit), 1 double banjo bolt and 2 lower adapters. There are also a total of 7 washers. 5 will be used, and 2 are spares. We strongly suggest having a professional mechanic install these brake lines; all other installations VOID warranty. Inspect your brake system after every race. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process is messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: Uninstall stock hoses; be aware of how the stock system was routed in case you need to re-install it. Step 4: Install the Galfer adapters onto the right and left calipers. Thread each adapter into the calipers with one washer, and torque at 12 to 13 ft pounds. (See picture S4) Step 5: Install the right and left lines to the calipers, using the shorter line on the right side. These lines will travel from the master cylinder to the calipers; a double banjo bolt (see picture S5) is included to run two lines down. The positioning sequence on the master cylinder is as follows: Master cylinder, washer, straight banjo (from right line), washer, 12-degree banjo (from left line), washer, and double banjo hex. Double banjo bolt torque level is 12 FT Pounds. ( See picture S6) Make sure that the 90-degree fittings on each caliper are pointing away from the bike just a little bit (see pictures S7 through S9 of calipers) . Thread each banjo end into the adapter, and torque to 6 ½ Ft pounds. Before you proceed to the next step, please check for clearance of the lines. Compress the front end to make sure that the lines are not binding with anything. When the front end is fully extended or fully compressed, double check that the lines are traveling correctly and clear from any obstructions. Once the lines have been checked for clearance, we recommend using a zip-tie to bring the lines together about an inch above the lower triple clamp area. (Picture S10) Step 6: Bleed brake system according to owner’s manual, and build appropriate pressure. Finishing with DOT 4-brake fluid is recommended.

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Suzuki DRZ400E Dual Sport Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 23-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat, side panels, and fuel tank. Kill switch connector Photo 1 2. Unplug and remove the stock headlight. 3. Unplug and remove the stock kill button. See Photo 1. 4. Unplug and remove the stock taillight. Using a utility knife, trim the taillight mounting tabs flush with the underside of the fender. 5. Taillight Installation: Attach the provided LED taillight to the under side of the rear fender using the provided countersunk mounting hardware as shown in Photo 2. Route the taillight wires forward to the area on top of the airbox along the right side of the fender. Secure the taillight wires to the taillight plastic with zip-ties so the tire cannot make contact. Photo 2 6. Rear Turn Signal Installation: Attach the rear turn signals to the flat portions on the sides of the LED taillight. Position them so they are out of the path of the exhaust. Route the wires forward securing with zip-ties. Route the right turn signal wires and the taillight wires around the front of the muffler mount and between the fender and the black plastic splashguard as shown in Photo 3.

2004-2005 KTM 250/ 400/ 450/ 525 Side Panel Fuel Tank removal and Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-01-2012

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1. Remove airbox cover. Drill stock rivet nut in frame tube through with a ¼” drill as shown in Photo 1. Drill completely through frame tube. We suggest you make a small guide hole in the top of the frame tube first so that you drill straight through the frame member and not come out the side of the frame tube. Photo 1 .Install Lower mounting bracket as shown in Photo 3 noting its orientation. Install the aluminum cone into the recess at the bottom of the stock airbox , then bolt the bracket on with the 6 x 70 mm bolt. Nylock nut threads to top of bolt on top of frame tube as shown in photo 2. Photo 3 2 3. Install the upper mounting bracket shown in Photo 4. Note that in either the MXC or the EXC installation four to six of the 6 x 18 mm fender washers should be installed between the bracket and the subframe. The counter-sunk hole should be positioned toward the rear wheel. Leave the bracket slightly loose until step 6. Photo 4 The best routing for the fuel line (Photo 5 & 6 ) requires drilling holes in the airbox. See Step 4 for hole locations. 4. Drill a 3/8″ hole at the front left corner of the airbox as shown in Photo 6. Make sure the location you choose will not result in the hole coming out behind the frame tube or into the rubber airbox boot. Be very careful drilling this hole.

Kawasaki KLX450R Dual Sport Kit Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, and side panels. 2. Unplug and remove the stock headlight. 3. Taillight Installation: The Baja Designs taillight will run in conjunction with the stock taillight for this installation. Start by removing the first wire guide that the stock taillight wires pass through near the end of the fender. Once removed, trim off the remaining molded mounting boss as shown in Photo 1. Drill three ¼” holes in the fender and use the provided countersunk mounting hardware to attach the Baja Designs taillight as shown in Photo 2. The rear edge of the LED cluster should line up with the rear edge of the fender. Route the wires forward between the plastics to the left of the front mounting bolt. We’ll attach them in a later step. Photo 1 Molded mounting boss removed Stock taillight Photo 2
4. Turn Signal Installation: Drill a 7/16″ hole in each side of the fender plastic in the locations shown in Photo 3. Install the rear turn signals and route the wires forward as shown in Photo 4. Photo 3 Photo 4 Zip-tie BD taillight wires to fender here Route left signal wires through fender with stock taillight wires 5. Brakelight Switch: The KLX uses a hydraulic operated switch to activate the brakelight. Installation of this switch requires bleeding the rear brake system. If you do not feel competent performing this task please refer it to a qualified mechanic. An improperly bled brake can lead to rear brake failure. Caliper Guard Modification: The hydraulic brakeswitch replaces the banjo-bolt that attaches the rear brake hose to the caliper. Because of its larger size, the plastic caliper guard must be relieved slightly to provide clearance. Remove the caliper guard and modify as shown in Photo 5.