suzuki vs1400 carb float height

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KAWASAKI 1500 CARB THUNDER Air Filter Kit Installation And removal Instruction

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line. 7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover. 10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. 11) Remove two 8mm bolts on Bracket – Remove Bracket 12) Remove Screw on Top of air Box Snorkel 13) Remove both side covers 14) Remove air Backing plate right side (Crank Case Breather hose that connects to stock air box will connect to new) 15) Remove Bracket that holds Carb and holds Backing Plate 16) Take idle adjustable Knob loose – let hang loose 17) Take Choke Knob out of holding Bracket 18) Hose that went to cross over tube MAY BE PLUGGED OR VENTED your Choice (Fresh air unit) ** 98′S or any models with carb warmer should disconnect carb warmer by pinching off line on each side of connector that plugs into carb on bottom. Small bracket with one screw directly on the bottom of carb. 19) Loosen Clamp that holds Carb to intake Manifold, Carb will hang loose 20) Remove intake Manifold 5mm Allen- Remove crossover tube. 21) (- BE CAREFULL-) LINE IT UP RIGHT- Replace intake Manifold (YOU MAY TO SEAL THIS WITH A SEALER LIKE PERMATEX) ( BE SUPER CAREFUL TO KEEP INTAKE COVERED DURING EACH STEP. SCREWS CAN FALL ONTO INTAKE) 22) Drain Float Bowl 3mm allen – very bottom of carb 23) Remove Float Bowl 4 screws (#2 Phillips) let hang down 24) Remove main jet, if Emulsion tube comes out use 8mm and Flat tip to separate jet from Emulsion tube. 25) Install with new jet 26) CAREFULLY Reinstall Float Bowl Cover 27) If installing Needle Remove Top Cover of Carb, Carefully pull the slide out. ( BE CAREFUL WITH DIAPHRAM) Remove Spring + Needle Install new Needle (WE RECOMMEND THE 3RD CLIP FROM TOP WITH TWO WASHERS ON TOP. REINSTALL 28) Be sure to reseat diaphragm – BE CAREFUL Reinstall Cover. 29) Install Carb to Intake – reconnect carb warmer if applicable 30) Reattach idle adjustment 31) Reattach Choke 32) Reattach Bracket in front of Carb- 33) Take Center bolt mount Rubber Gromlet from Stock Air box Plate install in to new Air box Adapter use stock Bolt, Attach to Bracke

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Triumph Bonneville Tuning Manual

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 20-11-2010

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1. The Float The float bowl acts as a fuel reservoir to meet engine demand. The float is hinged on a pin in the float boss. It rises and falls with the fuel level in the float bowl. The small metal tang integrated in the plastic float supports the float valve, also known as the float needle. As the fuel in the float bowl rises, the float valve is pushed into the valve seat, until it’s high enough to shut off the fuel flow to the bowl. As fuel is used the level in the bowl drops lowering the float which pulls the float valve from its seat, and fills again. Adjusting the height of the float has a big effect on the mixture as a low or high float level makes it harder or easier for the vacuum to suck fuel into the venturi. Differing float levels cause an imbalance which may be perceived as vibration. 2. The Choke This system is referred to as the choke. But that’s a misnomer. When you pull the choke knob, what you’re doing is retracting a plunger that opens a tube connected to the starter jet, allowing additional fuel to enter the venturi just below the vacuum hose nipple. It supplements the pilot system at start up. 3. The Pilot System The primary purpose of the pilot system is to supply the mixture at idle. It continues to supply fuel throughout the entire throttle range, but after about 1/8 throttle is reached the main system starts to put out more of the total mixture, up to full throttle. By adjusting the idle with the big screw on the left side of the carburettors the position of the butterfly is altered, so exposing one or more of the four small holes that are drilled into the venturi, (leading to the pilot jet) just under the butterfly valve, letting more or less air pass the butterfly. Adjusting the pilot screw that’s under the carburettor varies the amount of air premixing with the fuel before it enters the venturi. 4. The Main System Open the throttle and the cable that’s connected to the butterfly valve turns it from vertical to horizontal, so letting more air through the venturi. This increases the vacuum effect that is transferred up through the vacuum drilling in the slide to the diaphragm valve that leads to the diaphragm chamber. The top chamber is separated from the bottom by a rubber diaphragm. The bottom chamber is open to atmospheric pressure from the airbox. When the vacuum in the top chamber rises enough, the constant ambient pressure of the lower chamber helps the diaphragm valve overcome the downward force of the diaphragm spring, so it rises from the ven- turi. As the diaphragm is raised the needle is pulled out of the needle jet, exposing a thinner portion of the needle taper which allows more fuel to rise into the venturi to meet the increased engine demand. The key parts of the main system are shown in the photo below

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HW Prowler Carburetor Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats and the plastic seat pans under the seats. 2. Remove the engine cover 3. Remove the air-box by removing the cross-bar support that runs under the air-box to the framing on each side by the seat framing and disconnect the air box from the carburetor and from the plastic intake in the rear. 4. Disconnect the engine breather hose from the bottom of the air box 5. Set the air-box to the side 6. Disconnect the plug going to the stock carburetor, this is the electronic choke. Wrap the end left on the vehicle with electrical tape. 7. Cut the fuel line just above the fitting on the passenger side of the carb 8. Remove the side cover off the drivers side of the carb where the throttle cable goes in, see fig. #1 9. Pull the throttle cable out and then remove the throttle cable end from the throttle plate See Fig. #2 10. Loosen the clamp on the rear of the carb holding the carb on 11. Pull the carb out of the intake boot 12. Set OE carb to the side. 13. Push the new Carb into the intake boot making sure the carb is perfectly vertical and then tighten the clamp back up. The new carb is slightly larger than the stock one so some additional pressure will be needed to get it in. 14. Route all the breather lines connected to the carb down under the carb. 15. Connect the throttle cable onto the new carb but putting the cable end in the bottom hole of the throttle plate on the passenger side of the carb allowing the cable to ride in the slot in the plate and then turn the throttle plate clock wise allowing the threaded end of the cable to fit into the lower round hole of the throttle cable connection plate. See Fig. #3 16. Make sure you have a nut on each side of the plate turn the nut on the outside of the plate to take up the slack in the throttle cable then tighten the nut on the inside of the plate. See Fig. #3 17. Push the fuel line onto the fuel inlet on the passenger side of the carb and install the supplied clamp to hold it on. The fuel line will be a little hard to push on. 18. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE CHOKE CABLE PARTS SUPPLIED IN THE KIT UNTIL AFTER THE CHOKE CABLE ITSELF IS INSTALLED AND READY TO SCREW INTO THE CARBUETOR. 19. To install the supplied choke cable, drill a 3/8″ hole in the dash on the left side of the steering wheel in a location convenient to your left hand. 20. Remove the plastic nut from the bottom of the choke handle on the choke cable. 21. Push the choke cable thru the hole you drilled and then slide the nut over the cable to the inside of the dash and reinstall back on the back of the choke mechanism. Some dash screws maybe needed to be removed to accomplish this

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42MM MIKUNI FLATSLIDE CARBURETOR INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at 1/2 to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle. The output of the OEM fuel pump is too high and will cause fuel overflow in the HSR carb, resulting in a possible dangerous fire hazard

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Mikuni HSR 42/ 45 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at ½ to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle.

1994-2003 Suzuki GSXR750 and 1997-2004 Suzuki GSXR600 Superbike Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 10-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our Superbike kit: You should have 2 lines (front kit), 1 double banjo bolt and 2 lower adapters. There are also a total of 7 washers. 5 will be used, and 2 are spares. We strongly suggest having a professional mechanic install these brake lines; all other installations VOID warranty. Inspect your brake system after every race. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process is messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: Uninstall stock hoses; be aware of how the stock system was routed in case you need to re-install it. Step 4: Install the Galfer adapters onto the right and left calipers. Thread each adapter into the calipers with one washer, and torque at 12 to 13 ft pounds. (See picture S4) Step 5: Install the right and left lines to the calipers, using the shorter line on the right side. These lines will travel from the master cylinder to the calipers; a double banjo bolt (see picture S5) is included to run two lines down. The positioning sequence on the master cylinder is as follows: Master cylinder, washer, straight banjo (from right line), washer, 12-degree banjo (from left line), washer, and double banjo hex. Double banjo bolt torque level is 12 FT Pounds. ( See picture S6) Make sure that the 90-degree fittings on each caliper are pointing away from the bike just a little bit (see pictures S7 through S9 of calipers) . Thread each banjo end into the adapter, and torque to 6 ½ Ft pounds. Before you proceed to the next step, please check for clearance of the lines. Compress the front end to make sure that the lines are not binding with anything. When the front end is fully extended or fully compressed, double check that the lines are traveling correctly and clear from any obstructions. Once the lines have been checked for clearance, we recommend using a zip-tie to bring the lines together about an inch above the lower triple clamp area. (Picture S10) Step 6: Bleed brake system according to owner’s manual, and build appropriate pressure. Finishing with DOT 4-brake fluid is recommended.

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SUZUKI MOTORCYCLES Gsxr 600, Gsxr 750, Gsxr 1000 teak the lead

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 12-11-2010

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The launch of the sixth generation of Gsxr marked a shift in Suzuki’s emphasis on two fronts. One, the Gsxr 1000 now took the upper hand in the development stakes. Historically, the Gsxr 750 led the march-arriving first, gaining the most recent technology, absorbing the lion’s share of corporate pride-but by 2003 the Gsxr 1000 was in the lead. Two, the Gsxr 1000 represents another, more subtle shift for Suzuki engineering, in which the designers-the lucky guys who get to clothe these amazing machines-have more freedom of expression. With this generation, the designs turned edgier, sharper, more aggressive looking than ever. What’s more, the Gsxr 1000 K3 would be the proving ground for a host of changes brought to the Gsxr 600 and Gsxr 750 for 2004. In fact, nearly every upgrade to the smaller bikes appeared on the Gsxr 1000 a year before. But the real impetus for driving the Gsxr 1000 to the head of development and, indeed, shortening its development cycle was competition both on the track and in the showroom. For the track, it was understood that Superbike racing would revert to allowing 1000 cc four-cylinder bikes in place of the 750s that had been the limit since 1982. In 2002, Yoshimura and Mat Mladin barely lost the AMA Superbike crown to Nicky Hayden aboard the Honda RC5!. But it would be the RC’s swan song of competitiveness with the change to 1000 cc fours. To keep speeds in check, the AMA Superbike rules would require 1000 cc fours to have some additional limitations compared to the twins and triples. For example, “Cylinder heads may be ported and machined, but altering of valve angles will not be permitted; aftermarket valves, springs, retainers, and other valve-train components will be permitted; valves must be stock size and same basic material as original equipment; aftermarket camshafts will be permitted, but earn lift and resulting valve lift must be no greater than stock. “In addition, the “stock crankshaft must be retained, The only allowable modifications are balancing, polishing of bearing surfaces and attachment of accessory drives. Homologated transmission gear sets (one optional set of ratios per approved model) will be permitted. Optional sets will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor. Homologated fuel-injection throttle-body assemblies (one optional type per approved model) and aftermarket airboxes will be permitted. Modifications to throttle bodies will not be permitted. Optional throttle bodies will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor.” The thinking was simple: keep the liter bikes from sucking through massive throttle bodies, and the horsepower might not (and, it was hoped, would not) go through the roof. In preparation for racing, Suzuki moto wanted to make a host of small changes to the Gsxr 1000, but its motivation was also to keep the bike at the forefront of open-class street bikes. Suzuki engineers knew that Honda and Kawasaki were readying all-new models-the CBR 954 RR and the ZX 9 R had long since been vanquished-and rumor had it that Yamaha was ready with yet another push with the R1.It was the right time to make alterations to the Gsxr 1000. Heading the list was, as one might expect, a revised engine.

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SUZUKI PUTS THE 'STYLE' IN LIFESTYLE WITH CUSTOM ACCESSORIES INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 14-02-2012

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Suzuki Genuine Accessories are available for the all-new Equator midsize pickup truck, four-door SX4 Sport, five-door SX4 Crossover, XL7 midsize crossover and rugged Grand Vitara. The accessories can be purchased through local Suzuki dealers. Suzuki Equator  All-weather floor mats – Rubberized all-weather mats, ideal for keeping dirt, moisture and harsh debris from coming in contact with the vehicle’s carpet interior.  Bluetooth® module – The Suzuki-integrated hands-free Bluetooth phone system features a clean installation, fresh look and works with most Bluetooth-enabled mobile phones. Quality sound plays through the vehicle’s factory stereo and speakers, and the phone system automatically mutes the radio during phone calls. (Also available for SX4 Sport, SX4 Crossover, Grand Vitara and XL7.)  Body side moldings – Durable polyurethane molding set helps protect exterior paint from door dings and road rash.  Hood mask – Durable vinyl, custom-fit mask helps protect the front end of the vehicle from damage caused by minor road debris.  iPod® interface kit – Provides a seamless connection from an iPod to the vehicle’s radio and/or steering-wheel audio controls. (Also available for SX4 Sport, SX4 Crossover, Grand Vitara and XL7.)

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Harley Davidson Softails Airtail Suspension System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Step 1: Set the Bottoming Control This is the most important step and needs to be done first. Ideally, with the rear wheel off the ground take a measurement from the axle straight up to a fixed point on the fender (assuming the fender is mounted on the frame and not the swingarm). Then, with the motorcycle back on the ground and the rider on it, pressurize the “Bottoming Control” chamber until you get the same measurement —less 1 ¼ to 1 ½”. For example, if your first measurement was 10.0″ inches then your ending measurement should be between 8.50″ and 8.75″ inches. The difference between the two measurements is referred to as “sag”, and it should equal approximately one third of your total wheel travel (see figure 3). Another method of achieving the proper sag is it start with the bike on the ground — with no rider or load on it. Pressurize the “Bottoming Control” chamber to the highest pressure you can without exceeding 150 psi. At this point the rear wheel should be “topped out” and you need to measure from the axle straight up to a fixed point on the fender as described above. Take the same measurement with rider(s) on the bike — ready to ride. The second measurement should be 1¼” to 1½ ” less than the first. If it isn’t, then bleed off the pressure in the “Bottoming Control” chamber until the proper sag is achieved. If you intend to ride the bike at this “full height” then make sure you still put about 10 psi into the “Ride Height” chamber anyway. This helps the piston that separates the two chambers to move more freely producing a smoother ride. Step 2: Set the Ride Height After you have set the “Bottoming Control” you can now adjust the “Ride Height” chamber. This is a much simpler and less crucial adjustment to make. Simply pressurize the “Ride Height” chamber until the bike is lowered to the desired height. To raise the ride height back up, release pressure in the “Ride Height” chamber. Remember, the pressure in this chamber “holds” the bike down—the more pressure the lower it goes. Though the bike may feel “stiffer” the lower you go, do NOT re-adjust the “Bottoming Control” chamber. Essentially what’s happening here is as you’ve reduced your wheel travel, you’ve proportionally increased the forces that keep you from bottoming out with what wheel travel you have left. If you do need to re-adjust the “Bottoming Control” due the addition (or subtraction) of a passenger or extra load, release the pressure from the “Ride Height” chamber first, then repeat step 1.

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THUNDERJET INSTALLATION FIXTURE for S&S CARBURETORS

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 31-10-2010

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FUEL DELIVERY TUBE 6 5 6 5 6 5 6 5 -A Ambe -A Ambe r rton Drive, Elkridg e, MD 21075 410-579-2828 e, MD 21075 410-579-2828 ton Drive, Elkridg Using the two ¼”- 20 cap screws provided, secure t carb body at air cleaner surface to fixture through h # 2 & 5 . NOTE: Holes # 2 & 6 may be used to angle th ThunderJe clearance is needed below the fuel tank. he oles e t farther forward if additional ADJUSTABLE AIR BLEED les # RIGINAL AIR Secure Carb to fixture using ho & 8. 1 O LEED B BLOCKING Secure C fixture using ho & 6. arb to les # 1 BOWL VENT RELOCATION Secure Carb to fixture using holes # 6 & 7 . FLOAT BOWL ee Reverse side for S&S ‘B’ & ‘D’ Secure float bowl to fixture using the 3/8″- 16 flange nut and threaded rod provided using the 20 degree slope. S instructions. S&S ‘B’ & ‘D’ CARBS EXTERNAL BOWL VENT 6 5 6 5 6 5 6 5 -A Amberton Drive, Elkridge, MD 21075 410-579-2828 -A Amberton Drive, Elkridge, MD 21075 410-579-2828  ADJUSTABLE AIR BLEED THUNDERJET FUEL TUBE :00 position, viewed facing air filter (9 surface) sing the two #10-24 cap screws provided, :00 position, viewed facing air filter U secure the Carb body at bowl surface to fixture through the two holes marked ‘B’ . (3 surface) Using the two #10-24 cap screws provided, FLOAT BOWL secure the Carb body at bowl surface to fixture through the two holes marked ‘D

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