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Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

Harley-Davidson Mid Kit POWERLET Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-05-2012

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STEP #1 Remove seat. STEP #2 Route wires starting at the battery end and finishing at the bracket. STEP #3 Connect the wires to the socket. STEP #4 Mount the bracket on the horn bracket located under the gas tank. STEP #5 Fasten ty-wraps. STEP #6 Put everything you took off back on. Detailed Instruction: STEP #1 -Remove the seat exposing the battery. See the owner’s manual. STEP #2 – Remove negative battery lead. Remove the positive battery lead and attach the red wire [B]. Attach the black wire to the gas tank bolt [C]. Run the wires below the gas tank by passing through the gap between the frame & gas tank [D]. STEP #3 – Finish routing the wire under the tank and up to the horn bracket. Install the fuse in the fuse-holder. The center terminal is plus and the outer ring is negative (see dwg below). Apply either dielectric grease or Vaseline to the spade terminals. Connect the red wire to the positive spade terminal & the black wire to the negative terminal. Use a voltmeter to check if the polarity is correct. STEP #4 – On the left side of the bike, under the gas tank, locate the horn and bracket. Remove the acorn nut from the bracket [A]. You may need to remove the second nut also. Attach the Powerlet bracket utilizing the supplied chrome & rubber washers (if necessary). Adjust the bracket so it is aligned. Tighten to 8 Nm. STEP #5 – Apply the three ty-wraps. Use one to secure the fuse-holder and the other near point [D] and the third near the socket. Do NOT allow the harness to directly contact the motor or exhaust

TWIN VELOCITY FOR YAMAHA V-STAR 650 INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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STEP 1 Remove the stock air cleaner and components to the point shown in PIC. 1. The stock plastic airbox adapter “A” and stock mounting brackets “B” will remain in place. STEP 2 Insert both flanges of the rubber adapter through the mounting bracket as shown in PIC.2. The hardware components used for installation are placed near their respective mounting points: •”A” Socket head cap screw – 30mm long, tapered bolt cap, and two spacers. The spacers are placed between the chrome, and the stock mounting brackets. •”B” Socket head cap screw – 15mm long , tapered bolt cap •”C” Socket head cap screw – 30mm long, tapered bolt cap, two spacers (place between chrome and stock brackets), and flange nut. •”D” Mounting holes. STEP 3 The opening in the adapter boot must be slipped over the flange of the stock airbox and secured with the stock clamp. Install the mounting bracket as shown in PIC.3. Secure this assembly to the bike with the hardware specified in the previous step. STEP 4 Disassemble the Twin Velocity. Use 1/4″ 12 point combination wrench for the three fasteners that hold the front and rear sections of the Twin Velocity together. Pay close attention to the location of all components to simplify re- assembly. STEP 5 The 5/16″ button head bolts, reducer washers, nylon washers, flat washers, and acorn nuts will secure the air cleaner to the mounting bracket. See PIC.4. STEP 6 “Work” the radiused flange of the adapter through the inlet of the air cleaner. Using the hardware shown in the previous step, mount the air cleaner to the mounting bracket. See PIC.5. STEP 7 See PIC.6. Push two each of the oval rubber pads into the corresponding pockets in the air cleaner until they are flush with the back plate — two per side. You will find 3 holes behind the radiused flange that was previously installed through the air cleaner inlet in Step 6. With the three 1/4″-20 Socket head cap screws and nylock nuts secure the air cleaner to the mounting bracket. STEP 7 Reassemble the Twin Velocity Air Cleaner.

KTM 3V TURBO DRIVE MODEL 9808T KNEE FEED Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 28-01-2012

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Gather together the following items that you will need to complete this installation. a) lathe b) 3/8″ electric hand drill c) 9/32″ diameter transfer punch SERVO Turbo Drive Model 9808T Page 2 d) .4375 drill, 3/16″ drill, #7 drill e) 1/4-20 tap f) 3/4″ socket wrench g) set of inch hex wrenches h) clean shop rag Step 2: Clean the power feed mounting area completely. Step 3: Remove the drive clutch nut and the drive clutch from the elevating jack shaft. Step 4: Remove the dial nut, dial, and dial carrier. Keep the dial for reuse later. Step 5: Remove the existing bearing retainer. Keep the screws for reuse later. Step 6: Pull jack shaft out of knee. Hold inboard end up while removing to avoid damage to the pinion gear. Step 7: Press the bearing off the jack shaft. Step 8: Drill and ream the end of the jack shaft .4375″ diameter by 13/16″ deep. The .4375″ dia. must be concentric to the shaft O.D. within .002″ T.I.R. Chamfer 1/32″ x 1/2″ diameter. For best results, machining should be done in a lathe. Step 9: Place the shaft extension #6975 into the end of the jack shaft. Finish drill 3/16″ diameter through the shaft and pin the extension with the 3/16″ diameter x 5/8″ long roll pin. File smooth. Step 10: Reassemble and replace the jack shaft in the machine. Step 11: Replace the existing bearing retainer with #57904 retainer provided. Secure using existing screws. Step 12: Slip spacer #5426 and bearing race #1616 onto the jack shaft. Slide the adaptor #0771 over the bearing race and locate against front of the knee.

APRILIA FUTURA LEFT FRONT PANEL Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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STEP #1 Remove the left side panel & seat. STEP #2 Mount the socket. STEP #3 Route wires starting at the battery and finishing at the bracket. STEP #4 Attach the wires to the socket and test. STEP #5 Look over your work. STEP #6 Put everything you took off back on. Detailed Instruction: STEP #1 – Remove the seat & the left side fairing. See the Aprilia service manual. STEP #2 – Drill a 18mm hole into the panel (11/16″ hole saw recommended and is available on our site) where shown [A]. There is plenty of room for the knee of a tall rider. An alternate position is show at [E]. There is no need to completely remove the front fairing, just unscrew the bolt under the left handgrip; the panel will flex enough to work behind it. Watch the clearance behind the panel; make sure the socket has room. Attach the socket to the panel; use a dab of Silicone on the socket and jam nut after assembly. Important: Do NOT use Loctite or over-tighten. STEP #3 – Disconnect the battery ground & positive connections. Install the fuse in the fuse-holder. Mount the fuse-holder to the round cross tube [B]. Route the harness up on the inside of the frame piggyback with the seat release cable. The harness can be inserted in the same clip that the seat- release cable uses [F]. Use wire ties to secure it from touching the engine. Connect the red wire to the positive battery posts [C]. The red rubber boot may need to be notched to allow the wire to exit. Connect the ground connection under bolt [D]. Run the black wire along the inside of the frame rail, then pass under the frame rail near the attachment point. STEP #4 -The center terminal is plus and the outer ring is negative (see dwg below). Apply either dielectric grease or Vaseline to terminals. Connect the red wire to the POSITIVE terminal and the black wire to the NEGATIVE terminal. Use a voltmeter to check if the polarity is correct

DUCATI ST2/ ST4 Stock Socket Rewire Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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STEP #1 Remove necessary fairings. STEP #2 Unplug the stock connector; plug in the new harness. STEP #3 Route wires starting at the bracket end and finishing at the battery. STEP #4 Look over your work. STEP #5 Check the polarity & test. STEP #6 Put everything you took off back on. Detailed Instruction: STEP #1 – Remove the seat, front, right side, & left side tail fairings. See the Ducati service manual. STEP #2 -Locate the white connector on the back of the stock socket. Unplug this connector and ty-wrap it into a safe location. Plug the new wiring harness into the back of the stock socket. The center terminal is plus and the outer ring is negative (see dwg below). Apply either dielectric grease or Vaseline to the terminals. STEP #3 – The harness is designed so the wires leave the connector toward the back of the bike, (this way they will not be seen). Loop the wires up through the gap between the frame & the engine controller (or storage bin). On the left side there is a small gap; do not pinch the wiring. You will need to remove four screws on the engine controller to accomplish this. Next cross over behind the engine controller (or storage bin). Re-tighten the engine controller. The harness is now routed toward the front of the bike [A]. Loosen right tail fairing front clip screw & pass the wiring harness under it [B]. Route the harness between the frame and the engine going towards air box. Using a ty-wrap attach the fuse holder to the back, right, air-box post [C}. In this location the fuse can be easily accessed under the tank. The ground wire is attached to a gas tank hinge bolt [D]. Connect the two wires as follows: RED WIRE = BATTERY POSITIVE BLACK WIRE = GAS TANK HINGE BOLT STEP #4 – Apply the remaining ty-wraps in useful locations. Do NOT allow the harness to directly contact the motor or exhaust

kawasakI 9400 hyPercharger kIt INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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steP 1 Remove the seat. steP 2 Remove the bottom of the three dash plaque bolts (8mm). steP 3 Lift up on the dash panel and unscrew the speedometer cable (knurled nut). steP 4 Unplug the three electrical connections. steP 5 With a 12mm socket, remove the tank-mounting bolt under the dash and at the rear of the tank. steP 6 Close the fuel valve and clamp off the fuel line. Disconnect the line from the fuel valve. steP 7 Raise the rear of the tank, and disconnect the two vent hoses, and remove the tank. steP 8 Refer to the section of your factory service manual that deals with removal and installation of the following components. • Remove the two round chrome “air cleaner covers”, their backing plates, the stock black plastic air box (air inlet under tank), and the crossover tube. • Remove the intake manifold to remove and crossover tube. Use extreme care when replacing the intake manifold. Uneven torque, damage to the intake gaskets, or contamination can cause an intake leak that will result in very poor running, and nearly impossible jetting!! • Unplug all hoses or lines from these components. You may want to label these hoses at this time. The Largest of these hoses (3/4″ I.D.) is for the fresh air injection system; the second largest (3/8″ I.D.) is the crankcase breather. The smallest of the hoses is a drain. steP 9 Remove the brackets that held each round backing plate. The right hand bracket is also a carb stabilizer. This function is duplicated with one of the included brackets. steP 10 Remove the carburetor according to the section in your factory service manual that outlines procedures for carburetor removal, disassembly, reassembly and installation. We recommend that you label each hose or fitting as they are removed to make reassembly easier. An example of hose labeling is shown in PIC. 1. carburetor re-jettIng Procedure note Different combinations of aftermarket exhaust and air cleaners will have a significant impact on carburetor jetting. The supplied jetting components have been tested and found to be a good combination to produce drivability and performance with stock or free flowing, muffled/baffled exhaust pipes. We highly recommend NOT using drag pipes (open style). Using drag pipes in conjunction with our air cleaner will require additional jetting above and beyond the components included in this kit. a) Consult your factory service manual for details of this procedure. We have supplied jets to cover many common configurations. Remove the four Phillips head screws securing the plastic carb top to the carb body. Carefully remove the plastic carb top making sure not to damage the rubber diaphragm.

HARLEY DAVIDSON Detachable Solo Racks removal and Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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installation/Removal 1. While standing behind the motorcycle, place the front rack notches into the front docking points as shown in step 1 of the diagram. (Most of the rack, except a typical sideplate, has been removed for illustration purposes). 1 CAUTION Rear docking points may be damaged if rotary latches and sideplates are not properly aligned. If the latch does not easily close, do not force. Check alignment as described in step 2. 2. Pull the rotary latches back into their rearmost position as shown in step 2 of the diagram. 3. Push downward and close the rotary latches by pressing the latch lever as far forward as it will go as shown in step 3. You will hear a click when the latch is in place. If the latch does not easily close, do not force . Recheck alignment as described in step 2. 4. To remove the rack, press the release button shown in the diagram, and pull the rotary latch lever back. Carefully lift the rear of the rack up and pull the rack out of the front docking points. Position the rear rotary latches over the rear docking points, making certain the latches and sideplates fit into the neck of the rear docking points as shown in the rear view of step 2. This may require some gentle squeezing or spreading of the sideplates. Attaching Solo Rack INSTRUCTIONS -J00256 REV. 8-30-96 Detachable Solo Racks ® i00627 Step 1:place front notches into front docking points Step 2: pull back rotary latches and lower rack onto rear docking points Step 3: close rotary latches by pushing latch fully forward Release button

Aprilia ntic 500 Change

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 07-11-2010

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Time and Ease: Easy­ Under 30 Minutes Tools/Supplies: Ratchet w/sockets or wrenches, oil, oil pan, oil filter, rags, funnel Step 1: Put scooter on center stand and allow the engine to cool. Step 2: Unscrew and extract the cap­dipstick (1) . Step 3: Unscrew and remove the engine oil filter (3) . Step 4: Unscrew and remove the oil drain plug (4) . Allow the oil to drain completely. Step 5: Install a new oil filter (3) , being careful to lubricate the O­ring on the filter with oil. Step 6: Tighten the engine oil drain plug (4) . Step 7: Fill through the filling hole (2) with approximately 1.7 L of 5W­40 Synthetic or other that exceeds API ST Specifications. Step 8: Tighten the oil level dipstick (1) . Step 9: Start the engine and let run for a few minutes, Shut it off and let it cool. Check the engine oil level again using the dipstick (1) , and top it off if necessary, without ever exceeding the “MAX” level.

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