tighten rear bearing on 2007 trx450

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1981-1983 Yamaha Virago 750 & 920 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-02-2012

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Start by loosening the rear cylinder down tube bolt located on the top of the old mufflers center collector in front of the rear tire. 2. Remove both of the front cylinder exhaust pipe head nuts and set them to the side for reuse with the MAC exhaust system. 3. Remove the right side passenger’s foot peg. Set the foot peg aside as you will need to reinstall it. 4. Remove the left side passenger’s foot peg. Set this foot peg aside as it will also need to be reinstalled. Note: When you remove this bolt the entire exhaust system will be loose and may fall. You will need to support the old exhaust at this point to keep from injuring yourself. Gently move the old exhaust system side to side to remove it from the rear cylinder down tube. Once the exhaust system is loose from the down tube remove the system from under the Virago. 5. Remove the bolt holding the rear brake pedal in place and remove the brake pedal from the motorcycle. Note: Set both the bolt and the pedal aside for reinstallation. 6. Next loosen the nut on the drivers right foot peg, 1 full turn to start with. Then remove the rear nut on the same foot peg. (Note: The bolt that this nut is on goes completely through the motorcycle. This is the center stand mounting bolt.) Now remove the front nut and set both aside for reuse with the MAC system. 7. Install the center stand stop bracket under the left passenger foot peg. Install this bracket with the 90° bend facing down and towards the rear tire. (Note: Center stand sop bracket in provided in the hardware kit and is approx. 5″ long with a 90° bend in it.) Adjust the bracket by one of the large bolts through the foot peg then through the bracket and then install it into the stock location. Put on one of the washers and a nut and snug up the nut. Lower the center stand until the center stand come in to contact with the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the nut until it will hold the bracket securely. 8. Install the rear down tube clamp onto the rear muffler and install the medium sized nut/bolt/washer onto the clamp just finger tight. 9. Install the (2) small bolts into the channel bracket on the rear muffler. Install the rear mounting bracket onto the two bolts and then install the washers and nuts onto each. Tighten the (2) nuts only slight amount so that you can slide the bracket front to rear to insure that when you install the bracket you position it properly. 10. Slide the rear pipe onto the rear down tube about ¼”to ¾” past the pre-cut slots on the rear muffler pipe. Slightly snug the clamp making sure that the position of the bolt and nut will not interfere with any moving parts. The final position of this bolt can hit the tire if it is not positioned properly. 11. Install the other large bolt into the right passenger and then through the top hole in the rear muffler mounting bracket. Insert the bolt into the stock location and install the washer and the nut. 12. Align the rear muffler and you can then tighten the nuts on the rear muffler mounting bracket, the cylinder down tube and the right side passenger foot peg.
13. Install the front muffler on the rear most mounting bolt of the drivers foot peg and put the stock nut back onto the bolt. Hand tighten the bolt only at this time. Note: Install the nut at this time is only to support the muffler and to insure that the pipe does not fall on the ground while you complete the next step. 14. Lift the front head pipe into position and start the stock nuts onto the studs. It is strongly recommended that you install new exhaust gasket at this time. Note: The new exhaust gaskets are not included in the kit but are available at your local Yamaha Dealer. After gaskets are installed hand tighten the front head pipe. 15. Remove the nut from the drivers foot peg bolt and reinstall the drivers foot peg. Note: Hand tighten only at this time. 16. Finish tightening the nuts on the front head pipes. (Install these nuts according to Yamaha’s Factory specifications.) Once the nuts are tightened on the head pipe you can then tighten the drivers foot peg nuts. 17. Reinstall the rear brake pedal and tighten the bolt that holds it on to factory specifications. 18. Check all of the bolts that you have installed of removed to insure that they are tight. 19. Start the motorcycle and check for any leaks. 20. You are finished with your new MAC Exhaust System.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ENGINE/TRANSMISSION INTERFACE AND TOP COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2011

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INSTALLATION Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 1. Refer to the Owner’s Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the maxi-fuse. 1 4 3 2 is03621 1. Transmission top cover screw (3) 2. Upper and lower rear bearing housing screw (2) 3. Upper front bearing housing screw 4. Lower front bearing housing screw Figure 1. Interface Cover Installation 2. See Figure 1. Remove the two rear bearing housing screws (2) from the side of the transmission case. 3. Remove the oil level dipstick from the oil spout on the side of the transmission housing, wipe off and set it aside for later installation. NOTE Insert a clean shop rag into the oil spout opening while the dipstick is not installed. With the dipstick removed, small parts or other foreign material could fall into the transmission, leading to equipment damage or malfunction. 4. See Figure 2. Obtain the rear interface mounting bracket (1) from the kit. 5. Apply a few drops of Loctite 243 (Blue) to the threads of the two bearing housing screws removed in Step 2. Install the rear interface mounting bracket to the bearing housing with the screws, and tighten to 13-18 ft-lbs (17.6-24.4 Nm) . 6. See Figure 1. Remove the upper front bearing housing screw (3) from the side of the transmission case. Loosen the lower front bearing housing screw (4). 7. See Figure 2. Obtain the front interface mounting bracket (2) from the kit. 8. Apply a few drops of Loctite 243 (Blue) to the threads of the upper front bearing housing screw removed in Step 6. Hook the slot in the front interface mounting bracket under the loosened lower screw head. Install the bracket to the bearing housing with the upper screw, and tighten both screws to 13-18 ft-lbs (17.6-24.4 Nm) . 9. See Figure 1. Remove and retain the three socket head cap screws (1) that fasten the right side and left front corner of the transmission cover. 10. Remove and retain the screw fastening the rear brake line P-clamp to the rear fork bracket. 11. See Figure 2. Obtain the right rear interface cover (3), two chrome 1/4-20 screws (6) and two flat washers (7) from the kit. 12. From the rear of the motorcycle, bring the right rear interface cover into position behind the rear exhaust pipe, over the bearing housing. The hole in the top surface of the cover should be positioned over the right rear transmission top cover hole. 13. Loosely fasten the interface cover to the rear interface mounting bracket with the two chrome screws and flat washers. 14. Obtain the chrome top interface cover (4) from the kit. 15. Position the top interface cover over the transmission top cover, overlapping the tab at the top front of the chrome right rear interface cover

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HARLEY DAVIDSON WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TOOL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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BEARING REMOVAL 1. Place the wheel vertically in a vise and protect the rim from being marred. NOTE See Figure 1 for the tool lubrication locations before using. 2. Assemble the remover tool. a. Install wheel bearing puller (1), (2) or (16) depending on the bearing I.D. See the service parts table for the size reference. Install the wheel bearing puller into the bearing by hand or use a rubber mallet ( not a hard-faced hammer) to push through the bearing I.D. Stop pushing on the bearing puller as soon as it has cleared the inside of the bearing race. There will be a slight click. b. Place main body puller (3) over bearing puller with the fingers of main body puller facing the wheel. Lightly oil all threads. c. Place the large brass washer (10) and nut (13) onto the puller and hand-tighten the nut until it stops at the top face of the bridge. 3. Remove the front wheel bearings. a. Apply a small amount of oil to the taper at the hex end of the expander dowel. Insert the expander dowel (7) through the other side of wheel bearings, and through the bearing puller. b. Install the washer (15 and nut (14) to the expander dowel and torque to 100 in-lbs (11.3 Nm) with a 11/16 inch wrench or socket while holding the other side of the expander dowel by reaching the opposite side of the wheel with a 3/8 inch hex key. c. Align the main body puller support fingers centered over the bearing to be removed. If main body puller will be directly on a finished chrome surface, protect the surface area. d. If resistance is felt with a torque wrench set at 40 ft- lbs (54.2 Nm) of torque, you will need to apply heat to the hub area surrounding the bearing. Prior to applying heat, place 2 to 3 temperature stickers (P/N 94146-10) around the circumference of the hub. Apply indirect heat using a heat gun. Do not exceed 210°F. With a 1-1/8 inch socket and torque wrench, turn the nut (13) until the bearing is pulled free from the wheel hub. e. Using a 3/8 in. hex key on an extension and torque wrench set on the expander dowel (7) and a 1-1/8 inch wrench. Turn the nut (13) until the bearing is free of the wheel hub. 4. Remove the wheel bearing spacer from the I.D. of the wheel hub. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the opposite bearing. NOTE Remove rear wheel belt sprocket before removing the bearings. 6. Rear wheel bearing removal is the same as steps 1 through 4 by using the correct size wheel bearing puller

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KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)

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1999-2007 Yamaha V Star 1100 3" Res-Tec Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Stock Exhaust System Removal 1. Remove right side Foot peg assembly or Floorboard. (Whichever is applicable to your model.) 2. Remove O2 sensors from each muffler and cover with supplied cap plug. 3. Loosen clamps at mufflers. 4. Remove bolts that are holding mufflers at rear mounting bracket. 5. Remove mufflers. 6. Remove the two nuts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head. 7. Remove rear pipe assembly. 8. Remove the two nuts that secure the front exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head. 9. Remove front pipe assembly. Hard-Krome Exhaust System Installation NOTE: Take care when fitting this Hard-Krome aftermarket exhaust system on your motorcycle. It has been designed to replace a STOCK exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame and other components in their STOCK design, configuration and location. WARNING : Re-check and re-tighten ALL fasteners and supports after 50 miles, then re-check and tighten as necessary on a periodic basis to ensure proper operation and performance. NOTE: All fasteners should be loose during initial installation to ensure proper fit and location of the new exhaust system. 1. Install new exhaust gaskets. 2. Install mounting bracket using Bolts with flat & lock washers. (See Illustration) 3. Install Front exhaust header pipe, taking care to not scratch chrome surfaces on pipe, engine or motorcycle — use masking tape as needed. 4. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 5. Install 3/8-16 Square nut into each slotted bracket of front pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 6. Carefully install rear pipe. 7. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 8. Install 3/8-16 Square nut into each slotted bracket of rear pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 9. Tighten the two bolts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe flange. 10. Tighten the two bolts that secure the front exhaust header pipe flange. 11. Tighten front pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 12. Tighten rear pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 13. Reinstall foot peg assembly or floorboard. 14. If applicable to your model install foot peg relocating brackets and foot pegs as shown in illustration. 15. Before starting bike wipe off any fingerprints and grease off pipes. Start bike and check for any exhaust leaks

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2007 Yamaha V-Star 1300 Classic Straights Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Stock Exhaust System Removal 1. Remove right side Foot peg assembly or Floorboard. (Whichever is applicable to your model.) 2. Remove bolts that are holding pipes at rear mounting bracket. 3. Loosen clamps at mufflers. 4. Remove mufflers. 5. Remove the two nuts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head. 6. Remove rear exhaust pipe assembly. 7. Remove the two nuts that secure the front exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head. 8. Remove front exhaust pipe assembly. 9. Remove exhaust-mounting bracket from frame. Hard-Krome Exhaust System Installation NOTE: Take care when fitting this Hard-Krome aftermarket exhaust system on your motorcycle. It has been designed to replace a STOCK exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame and other components in their STOCK design, configuration and location. WARNING : Re-check and re-tighten ALL fasteners and supports after 50 miles, then re-check and tighten as necessary on a periodic basis to ensure proper operation and performance. NOTE: All fasteners should be loose during initial installation to ensure proper fit and location of the new exhaust system. 1. Install new exhaust gaskets. 2. Install mounting bracket using Bolts with flat & lock washers. 3. Install Front exhaust header pipe, taking care to not scratch chrome surfaces on pipe, engine or motorcycle — use masking tape as needed. 4. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 5. Install Nut strip into each slotted bracket of front pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 6. Carefully install rear pipe. 7. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 8. Install Nut strip into each slotted bracket of rear pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 9. Tighten the two bolts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe flange. 10. Tighten the two bolts that secure the front exhaust header pipe flange. 11. Tighten front pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 12. Tighten rear pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 13. Reinstall foot peg assembly or floorboard. 14. If applicable to your model install foot peg relocating brackets and foot pegs as shown in illustration. 15. Before starting bike wipe off any fingerprints and grease off pipes. Start bike and check for any exhaust leaks. NOTE: To achieve optimum performance from your Hard-Krome exhaust system we suggest installing the Dynojet jet kit for carbureted models

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HONDA FURY FRONT HEADPIPE W/HEATSHIELD, REAR HEADPIPE / MUFFLER W/HEATSHIELD INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Remove your stock exhaust system and stock exhaust mount. Save the (4) acorn nuts that attach the headpipes to the cylinders for later use during installation. 2. Install exhaust mounting bracket onto outside of frame, where stock mounting bolts were removed, by inserting the supplied M10 x 70 mm bolt into the top mounting hole and the shorter M10 x 45 mm into the lower and thru the frame, see Figure 1. Start threading the supplied M10 Nylock nut onto lower and upper bolts but DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN. 3. Loosen the right footpeg/floorboard assembly to help provide installation clearance for the front headpipe. 4. Slide the supplied exhaust flange over the front headpipe and bolt to cylinder using stock hardware from Step 1. DO NOT TIGHTEN at this time. 5. Place the supplied 27-61msc clamp onto the lower muffler slip collar then slide the rear headpipe / muffler assembly onto the front headpipe and into the rear exhaust port. Bolt rear headpipe to the rear cylinder using the stock acorn nuts from Step 1. See Figure 2 for clamp orientation. 6. Bolt the muffler assembly to the mounting bracket using the supplied 5/16 bolts. DO NOT TIGHTEN . 7. Make sure the front headpipe is inserted properly into the rear assembly and make sure the pipes are parallel with each other. Fully tighten the exhaust bracket to the frame first, then the front and rear cylinder acorn nuts attaching the exhaust flanges, then the muffler to the exhaust bracket. Then tighten the 27-61msc clamp last. (NOTE: If the muffler clamp is slid past the slots on the slip collar the clamp will not tighten properly.) 8. Unscrew the remaining hose clamps and feed the tail end of the clamp through the clips on the inside of the heatshields, the larger clamps go to the rear of the heatshields where they will rest on the muffler bodies, smaller ones to the front for the headpipes. The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible for tightening but not visible when heatshields are mounted to the pipes, see Figure 3. 9. To install the front heatshield, first slide the rear portion of the heatshield over the muffler, continue to slowly slide it forward pushing the front of the shield gently into place between the frame and motor (Hint: Spread the hose clamps apart slightly to make it easier to slide them over the muffler assembly and headpipes). Make sure the muffler clamp doesn’t interfere with the heatshields and is aligned as shown in Figure 2. Snug the heatshield clamps but DO NOT TIGHTEN . 10. Install the rear heatshield in the same manor as the front heatshield. Tighten all hose clamps.

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1999-2008 FLHT Series Harley- Davidson Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Save the Passenger Handrail and two nuts. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove five ¼ – 20 HHCS, ¼ – 20 nyloc nuts, and Aluminum Spacers. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and remove 2 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 15. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 16. Remove both ¼ – 20 HHCS and Front Saddle Bag Brackets. 17. Remove the twelve 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS six 5/16 – 18 nuts, and the Left and Right Saddle Bag Guards. 18. Remove the Air Line Junction from the Rear Fender. 19. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip.
6 20. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Phillips head screws. Remove the Left and Right Frame Covers. 21. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove and save the Top Tour Pak Support Tube Top. 22. Remove four 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove the Left and Right Rear Saddle Bag Guard Support Bracket. 23. Remove four 5/16 – 18 HHCS. Remove and save the Tour Pak Support Tube Bottom. 24. Remove and discard the Air Valve Assembly Bracket. 25. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard both Rear Air Shock Absorbers. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. 26. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 27. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 28. Remove the 10 – 24 flanged HHCS and Rear Brake Hose Clamp from the Right Rear Fork Bracket. 29. Remove ¼ – 20 SHCS from Rear Stop Lamp Switch Bracket. 30. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 32. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 33. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 34. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 35. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly rearward. Remove one 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS from inside the Rear Fender well. 36. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly forward. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove Rear Fender. 37. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate

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Honda 400EX Hub installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011

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Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.

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KTM Front Wheel Bearing Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 31-01-2012

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. 2 Using a 27mm socket remove the front axle nut. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the four front axle pinch bolts. Slide front axle out of forks and remove front wheel. 3 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 4 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 5 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from the brake rotor side of the wheel. (Fig. 4) NOTE: 2003 – CURRENT MODELS USING # 16-092 KIT DO NOT USE THIS SNAP RING. 6 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 7 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring (if used, either side if not) side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5) 8 Install the bearing retainer snap ring (if used) into the groove machined in the hub, and then tap the seal in place over the snap ring with the spring on the seal in towards the center of the wheel. Tap in the aluminum spacer in the center of the seal.

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