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YAMAHA YZF-R6R/ YZF-R6SR/ YZF-R6RC/ YZF-R6SRC SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 26-04-2011

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CABLE ROUTING SPEC A Pass the right handlebar switch lead inside the front brake hoses and over the throttle cables. B Install the throttle cables to the hook so that the pulling side of the throttle cables is routed downward. C Pass the clutch cable through the guide. D Plastic locking tie shall be positioned at 10 mm (0.39 in.) below from the upper bracket. E Clamp the left handlebar switch lead to the front fork with the plastic locking tie and cut the tip of the tie. Clamp it to the protector section Set in the coupler between the head light’s hollow section and the duct. J Install the relay to the rib of the head light. (Location for the left and right relays is alternative.) K To the wire harness L To the front turn signal light (right) M Set the sub wire harness in the joint. N Do not catch the sub wire harness when the duct is assembled. O To the front turn signal light (left) P Point the tip of the plastic locking tie to the front side of the vehicle. Cut the tip leaving 2 X 10 mm (0.08 X 0.39 in). Q Point the tip of the plastic locking tie under the under bracket and rear side of the vehicle. Cut the tip leaving 2 X 10 mm (0.08 X 0.39 in) A Pass the main switch lead under the left handlebar switch lead and then to the right side of the vehicle. B Pass the throttle stop cable by the left side of the side stand switch lead, oil level switch lead, A.C. magneto lead and then to the right side of the vehicle. C Pass the fuel tank drain hose and fuel tank breather hose inside of the reservoir tank breather hose, reservoir tank hose and wire harness and then route it by the out side of the starter motor lead. D Pass the coolant reservoir tank hose outside of the fuel tank drain hose and fuel tank breather hose. E Pass the fuel tank drain hose, fuel tank breather hose through the clamp of the coolant reservoir tank

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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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Kawasaki Ninja 250 FAQ

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Am I too small for this motorcycle? Duke – Sun May 14 17:38:31 2000 I’m only about 5’2″ and don’t have a problem, even though I can only touch the ground with the ends of my toes. Once you get a feel for the balance of the bike it’s not hard to keep everything upright. Only place I have trouble is pushing the bike backwards in a parking lot. Usually I just walk the bike (beside it) to where I can get on and get going. How does the EX500 compare to the EX250? Craig M. – Mon May 22 10:23:29 2000 I have both the EX250 and the EX500; both are Y2K models. The 250 is a screamer that performs well and can easily get me into trouble. My only complaints about the 250 are the excessive nose dive when getting on the front brake hard and the skittishness of the rear during high speed cornering. Both are easily corrected with suspension adjustments, I’ve just been too lazy to get the parts and do the work. A bit more wind protection would be great too. The 500 addresses these problems, the diving of the front end (to a degree); the rear’s skittishness and the wind protection. A plus for the 500 is the greater torque and power off the line; it pulls stronger (in my opinion) and will get you into illegal speed territory just a bit quicker than the 250. With greater weight, is has more stability in high speed and windy situations. Insurance is just about the same for both, with the 250 getting the nod for gas mileage. Service requirements are almost identical for both as well, being that they’re both parallel twins, the technology is the virtually the same. The downfalls of the 500: $2K more than the 250 (can do a lot to the 250 with that kind of money); buzzy mirrors, barely useful; heavier weight to have to push around the garage; lesser gas mileage (55-60 MPG; 250 pushes 70 MPG easily); engine is worse than a nervous dog shaking around at idle and at speed (here the 250 is far superior and much smoother). In my opinion, the 500 is a better suited for a larger rider, from a comfort standpoint. I feel I can stretch out a bit more on it than the 250 (I’m 5′ 9″, 160 lbs). The 250′s brakes are better tuned than the 500 and the shifter is much smoother. That may be due to the 3,500 mile difference between the two bikes. Bottom line, both bikes are great, the 250 is now my wife’s ride (mainly) and the 500′s mine (unless she steals the keys away). In time, I’ll make the adjustments to the 250; she doesn’t push it like I do.

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YAMAHA YZF R6T/ YZF R6TC SPECIFICATIONS AND SUPPLEMENTARY SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 26-04-2011

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This Supplementary Service Manual has been prepared to introduce new service and data for the,YZF-R6T / YZF-R6TC. For complete service information procedures it is necessary to use this Sup- plementary Service Manual together with the following manual. YZF-R6R / YZF-R6SR / YZF-R6RC / YZF-R6SRC SERVICE MANUAL: CHASSIS TIGHTENING TORQUES NOTE: 1. Insert the front wheel axle from the rightside and tighten it with the flange bolt from the left side to 91 Nm (9.1 m•kg, 66 ft•lb). 2. In the order from the pinch bolt → pinch bolt → pinch bolt , tighten each bolt to 21 Nm (2.1 m•kg, 15 ft•lb) without perform ing temporary tightening. 3. Check that the end face of the axle head and the end face of the fork side are flush- mounted. If they are out of alignment, make sure to fit them by adding the external force by hand or with a plastic hammer, etc. If the end face of the axle is not parallel to the end face of the fork, align them so that one point of the axle circumference is positioned on the end face of the fork. At this stage, it can be accepted if the end face of the axle becomes partially concave to the end face of the fork. 4. In the order from the pinch bolt → pinch bolt → pinch bolt , tighten each bolt to 21 Nm (2.1 m•kg, 15 ft•lb) without performing temporary tightening

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2008 KTM 250 SX-F 250 XC-F, XCF-W 250 EXC-F, EXC-F SIX DAYS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-10-2010

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Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [1] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [A] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see “Maintenance”). 1 A Short circuit button The short circuit button [2] turns off the engine. When pressing this button, the ignition circuit is short-circuited. 2 Headlamp switch (XCF-W) In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [5] . 5 Flasher switch The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the handlebar. The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without affecting the function of the remaining electrical system. Flasher left Flasher right
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » ENGLISH 7 1 2 3 4 5 Starter button Pushing the red starter button [1] will actuate the E-starter. Emergency OFF switch (EXC-F Australia) The red emergency-OFF switch [2] is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip. In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can be started. In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter. Pushing the black starter button [3] will actuate the E-starter. Indicator lamps The green control lamp [4] flashes in the same rhythm as the flashing indicator when the indicator is working. The blue control lamp [5] lights up when the high beam is on. TEST All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test. Electronic speedometer The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The display lights up when the engine is running. The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The button is used to change between display modes. The + and – buttons are used to control various functions

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Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

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R1 Addendum Yamaha YZF-R1 and YZF-R6 TiForce exhaust system REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-01-2012

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Remove the lower fairing. Remove the lower radiator mounting bolts, loosen the upper bolts and pivot the radiator forward to provide more access to the exhaust nuts (flange nuts). 2. YZF-R1 ONLY!!! The EXUP control cables are tie-wrapped to the frame, and will need to be disconnected from the servo motor. Do not disconnect the electrical connection to the servo motor, and do not remove the actual servo motor. Simply remove the cables from the EXUP valve and from the servo motor. 3. Remove the existing exhaust system and save the flange nuts for reuse. Save the mounting bolt and nut for the end can to the passenger footpeg for reuse as well. 4. Inspect the exhaust gaskets. Replace if necessary. 5. Assemble the head pipes 1 (blue), 2 (red), 3 (yellow), and 4 (green) by matching the joints of the same color to the pair of front Y-pipes. Do not install the exhaust springs at this time. 6. Attach the assembled head pipe sections to the exhaust ports, but do not tighten the flange nuts fully, allowing for some adjustment in the remainingsteps. Reuse the flange nuts saved from step 3 above. Make sure the ends of the headpipes fit flush and snug in the ports before tightening. 7. Install the S-Bend to the front section of the headpipes and two Y-pipes. 8. Go back and retighten the head pipe flange nuts per factory specifications. 9. Slide the TiForce end can into place. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and stayarm / hanger G to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. See figure 1. 10. YZF-R1 ONLY!!! Place the bands approximately 180mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2. 11. YZF-R6 ONLY!!! Place the bands approximately 195mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2. 12. Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger footpeg, and using the stock mounting bolt, mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. Insert the stock mounting bolt through the stay / hanger G. 13. Attach the supplied springs to all the joints, starting from the headpipes and working back to the end can. 14. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear, if necessary jiggle the system to adjust for proper clearance. 15. Carefully align the two stainless bands K so that they are parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can (step 10 or 11 / figure 2), then tighten the 6mmhardware H and the stock mounting bolt hardware. Make sure that the rubber pads fully cover the band(s). USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN

YAMAHA YZF-R1P/ YZF-R1PC SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 25-11-2010

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1Fuel pump 2Pressure regulator 3Fuel injector 4Throttle body 5Intake temperature sensor 6Throttle position sensor 7Intake air pressure sensor 8ECU 9Atmospheric pressure sensor 0Coolant temperature sensor ACylinder identification sensor BCrankshaft position sensor ÈFuel system ÉAir system ÊControl system Illustration is for reference only. 1 – 4 GEN INFO FEATURES Fuel control block The fuel control block consists of the following main components: An engine trouble warning light is provided on meter panel. Component Function Control block ECU Total FI system control Throttle body Air volume control Pressure regulator Fuel pressure detection Sensor block Intake air pressure sensor Intake air pressure detection Atmospheric pressure sensor Atmospheric pressure detection Coolant temperature sensor Coolant temperature detection Intake temperature sensor Intake temperature detection Throttle position sensor Throttle angle detection Cylinder identification sensor Reference position detection Crankshaft position sensor Crankshaft position detection and engine RPM detection Speed sensor Speed detection Actuator block Injector Fuel injection Fuel pump Fuel feed Air Induction system, air cut valve Induction of secondary air A. Power supply circuit The power supply circuit obtains power from the battery (12 V) to supply the power (5 V) that is required for operating the ECU. B. Input interface circuits The input interface circuits convert the signals output by all the sensors into digital signals, which can be processed by the CPU, and input them into the CPU. C. CPU (Central Processing Unit) The CPU determines the condition of the sensors in accordance with the level of the signal that is output by the respective sensor. Then, the signals are temporarily stored on the RAM in the CPU. Based on those stored signals and the basic processing program on the ROM, the CPU calculates the fuel injection duration, injection timing, and ignition timing, and then sends control commands to the respective output interface circuits. D. Output interface circuits The output interface circuits convert the control signals output by the CPU into actuating signals for the respective actuators in order to actuate them. They also output commands to the indicator and relay output circuits as needed.

KYMCO MAXXER 300/ 250 MONGOOSE 300/ 250 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kymco) by admin on 26-10-2010

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apply or add designated greases and lubricants to the specified lubrication points. ÑAfter reassembly, check all parts for proper tightening and operation. ÑWhen two persons work together, pay attention to the mutual working safety. ÑDisconnect the battery negative (-) terminal before operation. ÑWhen using a spanner or other tools, make sure not to damage the motorcycle surface. ÑAfter operation, check all connecting points, fasteners, and lines for proper connection and installation. ÑWhen connecting the battery, the positive (+) terminal must be connected first. ÑAfter connection, apply grease to the battery terminals. ÑTerminal caps shall be installed securely. 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-6 ATV 300/250 ÑIf the fuse is burned out, find the cause and repair it. Replace it with a new one according to the specified capacity. ÑAfter operation, terminal caps shall be installed securely. ÑWhen taking out the connector, the lock on the connector shall be released before operation. ÑHold the connector body when connecting or disconnecting it. ÑDo not pull the connector wire. ÑCheck if any connector terminal is bending, protruding or loose. Confirm Capacity 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-7 ATV 300/250 ÑThe connector shall be inserted completely. ÑIf the double connector has a lock, lock it at the correct position. ÑCheck if there is any loose wire

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