timing marks on a 2007 honda crf450r

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2005 Honda CRF450R OWNER'S MANUAL AND COMPETITION HANDBOOK

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Normal Engine Stop 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Turn the fuel valve OFF. 3. Lightly open the throttle (1) 2 – 3 times, and then close it. 4. Depress and hold the engine stop button (2) until the engine stops completely. Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the carburetor to overflow, result in hard starting. Emergency Engine Stop To stop the engine in an emergency, press the engine stop button. Basic Operating Instructions 15 Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km). During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. This same procedure should be followed each time when: •piston is replaced •piston rings are replaced •cylinder is replaced •crankshaft or crank bearings are replaced Break-in Guidelines 16 Basic Operating Instructions Servicing Your Honda 17 Servicing Your Honda Keeping your CRF well maintained is absolutely essential to your safety. It’s also a good way to protect your investment, get maximum performance, avoid breakdowns, and have more fun. To help keep your CRF in good shape, this section includes a Maintenance Schedule for required servicing and step-by-step instructions for specific maintenance tasks. You’ll also find important safety precautions, information on oils, and tips for keeping your Honda looking good. An ICM (Ignition Control Module) system is used on this motorcycle; consequently, routine ignition timing adjustment is unnecessary. If you want to check the ignition timing, refer to the Honda Service Manual (page 156).

2009 Honda CRF450R Decompression Plunger PRODUCT UPDATE CAMPAIGN

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-04-2011

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JH2PE053*9K700001 thru JH2PE053*9K703372 (*) Denotes check digit UPDATE PROCEDURE DEALER VENTORY Any affected unit in your inventory must be updated with a new decompression plunger and weight before delivery to the customer. Refer tothe PARTS INFORMATION and the UPDATE PROCEDURE sections of thisb Service Bulletin. Refer to the 2009 CRF450R Service Manual for specific removal instructions. 1. Remove the seat (page 3-3). 2. Remove the shrouds (page 3-4). 3. Properly hang the fuel tank (page 4-6). 4. Remove the camshaft (page 9-10) CUSTOMER INFORMATION: The information in this bulletin is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment, and training to correctly and safely maintain your Honda. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers,” and you should not assume this bulletin applies to your Honda, or that your Honda has the condition described. To determine whether this information applies, contact an authorized Honda dealer. 5. Replace the decompression weight and plunger with kit parts (page 9-14). 6. Reinstall all previously removed parts. IDENTIFICATION When you have completed the update, place a punch mark before the first digit of the V.I.N. located on the right side of the steering head. 0080 WARRANTY INFORMATION This Product Update Campaign ends on arch 7, 2012. Normal claim submission requirements apply. fter completing the UPDATE PROCEDURE,submit one warranty claim per unit with the following information: WARRANTY CLAIM TEMPLATE: Template: R02A* Flat Rate Time: 1.2 hours *Template reads “R-zero-2-A”.

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Honda GL1000 Timing Belts Removal / Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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Turn engine as described above until the T-1 mark aligns with engine block marks (it looks a little ‘out’ on the photo, it’s the angle). AND (this is important) the pulley marks align with the marks on the engine cover like here on LEFT side (seen from sitting on bike … remember). and RIGHT side. Mark this position on the central pulley and engine block. Now release the tensioner bolts. (*) And remove the belt. (*) (*) When you do that the right pulley (photo-left) will ‘wander/turn’ out of position when you remove the belt, as it is ‘riding’ on cam ‘slope’ (which is under the influence of the valve springs). Don’t worry. One thing you can do to calm your nerves and keep it in position: put the new belt loosely over the pulley and holding the pulley in the CORRECT POSITION (marks aligned) ‘strip’ a spanner to the frame. Do not use the spanner to turn the pulley. Use your hands … then ‘lock’ it with the spanner. (Make absolutely sure you do not turn (release/loosen) the bolt). And, here’s a nifty trick posted by Mooseheadm5 in another thread: “..one thing that made it super easy (and 3 reduced the anxiety level quite a bit) was that I loosened the tappet adjusters all the way [...snip...] you do not have to fight the valve springs much, plus the cams do not want to snap back or forward so you do not necessarily need to use Octane’s zip-tied wrench trick.” – Thanks, Moosehead . Release left tensioner bolts . Remove belt. Put on new belt. Check the tensioners or ‘tension rollers’. You may think they are ‘fine’: they ‘roll’ and don’t make funny sounds? You won’t know until you’ve had a set of new rollers in your hands. They should be real ‘tight’ as a set of new roller bearings … which I think they are, in fact. If they appear ‘dry’ or make any sounds; renew them and get rid of that high pitched whining sound associated with ‘dry’ rollers. This is how they go on left side (remember…photo-right). And the spring gets attached . … Pulleys in correct position (crank pulley and cam pulley) . … Left belt tight at the bottom … Tension roller loosely attached (let the spring do the tension). (On photo it is not on yet … ooops.

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2003 – 2007 4Runner OIL LEAK FROM FRONT TIMING COVER

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 31-10-2011

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evidence of a small oil leak located where the Bank 1 cylinder head, engine block, and timing cover meet. Use the following repair procedure to address this condition. 2003 – 2007 model year 4Runner vehicles equipped with the 1GR-FE engine and produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown below. MODEL PLANT DRIVETRAIN PRODUCTION CHANGE EFFECTIVE VIN 2WD JTEZU17R#68064608 Hino 2WD JTEZU14R#78076191 4Runner Hino 4WD JTEBU14R#78078323 4Runner 4WD JTEBU14R#78090468 Tahara 2WD JTEZU14R#70091230 Tahara 4WD JTEBU14R#70117349 OP CODE DESCRIPTION TIME OFP T1 T2 EG7036 Reseal FrontTiming Cover with FIPG 2WD7.6 113100P0306548 EG7036 Reseal Front Timing Cover with FIPG 4WD8.5 11310-0P030 65 48 Applicable Warranty*: This repair is covered under the Toyota Powertrain Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 60 months or 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date. *Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer’s specific complaint

2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

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4-STROKE TRIUMPH SINGLE CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

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ULTIMA IGNITION MODULE AND KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL FRONT SPOILER KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2011

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This instruction sheet references Service Manual information. A Service Manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. Kit Contents See Figure 2 and Table 1. INSTALLATION 1. Position the vehicle on a motorcycle lift table. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove maxi-fuse before proceeding. (00251a) 2. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the Maxi® Fuse. 3. Raise the vehicle on the lift table to allow access to the lower front portion of the frame. 2008+ 2007 7 8 11 3 3 4 4 12 5 5 1 1 9 2 2 10 6 6 9 9 11 13 is02652c 8. 1. Two-pin voltage regulator connector (2007 only) Voltage regulator 2. 9. Voltage regulator attaching screws (2) Cable strap (2 for 2007, 1 for 2008 and later) 10. 3. Lower voltage regulator cover (2007 only) Voltage regulator bracket 4. 11. Bracket screw to engine crankcase (2) Oxygen sensor connector 12. 5. Crank position sensor connector (2007 only) Voltage regulator caddy 6. 13. Voltage regulator caddy cover Horn connectors (some 2008 and later models) 7. Four-pin voltage regulator connector (2007 only) Figure 1. Original Equipment Voltage Regulator  NOTE For 2007 models: The ground wire on the voltage regulator must be re-attached at the original location when re-installing the voltage regulator to ensure adequate ground. 4. For ALL models: See Figure 1. Remove and discard the voltage regulator caddy cover (6) from the regulator bracket (3) and caddy (5). For 2007 models: In addition, remove the lower voltage regulator cover (10). 5. Remove and retain the hex socket head screw (4) at the top left of the bracket For 2007 models: In addition, disconnect the ground wire. Free the cable straps (9) from the regulator bracket, beneath the regulator. 6. Remove the two hex socket head screws with washers (2) retaining the voltage regulator to the bracket. Remove and save the regulator, but discard the screws. 7. Remove and retain the screw (4) at the top right of the regulator bracket. Remove the bracket from the engine. 8. For 2008 and later models: Free the strap (9) that ties the jiffy stand wiring to the voltage regulator bracket. Unfasten the three-way jiffy stand sensor connector and the two-way crank position sensor connector [79] (12) from the T-studs on the back of the regulator bracket (3). Discard the bracket. Disconnect both plugs from the back of the voltage regulator (1). For 2007 models: Unfasten the four-way (7) and two-way (8) voltage regulator connectors from the T-studs on the back of the regulator bracket (3), and discard the bracket. Disconnect the voltage regulator (1) at both connectors. 9. For 2008 and later models: Unclip the two-way O 2 (oxygen) sensor electrical connector [138] (11) from the voltage regulator caddy (5). For 2007 models: Unfasten the two-way crank position sensor connector [79] (12) from the voltage regulator caddy (5). Remove the caddy from the vehicle frame. a. For 2007 models: Unclamp the bottom of the caddy from the engine mount spacers. b. For ALL models: Unhook the top clips from around the tabs on the front of the engine casting. Remove the original equipment (O.E.) caddy from the vehicle frame, and discard it.

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Honda 2007-2010 Rancher 420 ATV Rear Bumper Installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

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Honda Rancher 420 ATV Rear Bumper (2007-2010) Installation Instructions 1. Attach top bumper attachments to top rack. 2. Attach the rear bumpers lower attachment point to vertical bars

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HONDA 420 RANCHER 2×4/4×4 2007-2009 CLUTCH KIT INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

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Remove key from the ignition switch. Remove the side panels from both sides. Remove both foot wells. 2. Drain coolant. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; if you carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. 3. Disconnect shift motor (on electric shift models only). Remove coolant hoses. 4. Remove the bolts that mount the front differential to the frame, no other parts need to be removed. Carefully slide the front differential towards the front of the machine; you might need to lift up slightly to get the differential to move. Remove the drive shaft. Remove o-ring on output shaft (on motor). 5. Remove the fuel pump. 6. Loosen the front crankcase cover bolts, keep track of each bolt length and location. Slowly remove the crankcase cover. Carefully watch for o-ring shims and dowel pins that may fall out. 7. Unstake the nut holding the clutch on and remove nut. Using Honda tool #07933-HB3000A thread the large part of the tool into the center of the clutch. Tighten the center bolt on the tool while holding the large part of the tool with a wrench. This will pull the clutch off the machine. Place the clutch on a clean work surface. EPI performance.com
8. Using the c-clamps push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the four e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off, remove the round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see the complete spring. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or needle nose pliers and then remove springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers (45 degree bent pliers work well) pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the metal plates and the e-clips. If you can’t get the plates to sit flat make sure each clutch arm is flat against the bottom plate of the clutch. Occasionally when you put the springs on, the clutch arms will pop up. Slide the clutch into the machine. The Sprague clutch is marked “outside” when installing make sure this is facing out. Torque clutch nut to 87 ft/lbs. 9. Clean the gasket surface on the motor and on the cover. Put a thin layer of Honda Bond or Yamabond semi-drying liquid gasket (or something similar as long as it is semi-drying) on the crankcase cover. Carefully install crankcase cover, do not force cover on. Torque bolts to 9 ft/lbs. 10. Install the fuel pump. 11. Install the o-ring on the output shaft (on motor) and install the drive shaft. Carefully slide the front differential back into place and mount to the frame. Install the coolant hoses. Refill your engine coolant to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. 12. Install the oil drain plug. Refill your engine to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. Only use manufactures recommended oil. 13. Be sure to double check coolant and oil levels and to look for any leaks after the machine has run for a few minutes. 14. Go out and ride your machine. If your performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly. 15. EPI is constantly testing our products. Sometimes there is a need to contact the user with new technical information. To ensure that you are receiving this information visit our web site EPIperformance.com to register your clutch kit.

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