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ACE -325X/ 395 X-XX CLOCK, UNIT, WHEEL, ODOMETER, TEMPERATURE & FUEL METER SETTING

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-12-2011

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Setup operations include 12/24hour clock, bar tachometer scale, shift warning RPM, numbers of engine rotation per signal, wheel circumference, units, odometer adjustment, units of temperature, temperature warning and fuel meter input resistance selection. These must be set up step by step. The computer will automatic reversion to main screen if no button operation for 75 seconds at any setting screen. 2. Press both MODE & RESET buttons to go into setting screen. In setting screens, press RESET button to add the flashing digit by 1 or convert units, press MODE button to confirm the digit setting and jump to next digit or next setting screen to be set. Press MODE button for 2 seconds at any setting screen to finish the setting and go to main screen. 3. It displays “12 or 24H and XX:XX-XX” symbols and AM/PM in case you select 12H. Operates buttons as descriptions of item 2 to finish clock and jump to 8,000/16,000rpm scale setting. 4. It displays 8,000rpm scale, presess RESET button to convert 8,000 or 16,000rpm. Press MODE button to confirm the setting and jump to shift RPM warning setting. 5. It displays ” RPM rXXX00 “. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the shift RPM warning setting and jump to engine specification setting. 6. It displays “SPC-X.X RPM”, the default value is 1.0; there are 4 options: 1.0, 2.0, 3.0 and 0.5. It means the numbers of engine rotation per signal. For example the value 2.0 means the engine rotate 2 turns to output a signal. 7. Press RESET button to move in loop sequence from one to another value of the 4 values. Press MODE button to confirm the setting and go to wheel circumference setting screen. 8. In “cXXXX” display, “c” means “Circumference”, following 4 default digits; flashing digit is digit to be set. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the wheel circumference setting and jump to unit setting. 9. It displays KM/h or MPH, each press of RESET button converts unit; press MODE button to confirm unit setting and jump to odometer setting. 10. It displays “ODO & 00000Xkm”, the “X” is tested odometer in factory, follow item 2 to setting a desired odometer and jump to thermometer unit setting. The setting screen will disappear when the odometer is over 30km or your setting is over 30km and returned to main screen. 11. It displaysm ” , or oFF”, each press of RESET button converts , or oFF; press MODE button to confirm temperature setting and jump to temperature warning setting. 12. It displays ” XXX” and the selected unit. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the temperature warning setting and go to fuel sensor input resistance setting. 13. It displays “100r and fuel tank symbol”, follow the item 2 to select 100, 250, 510 Ohm or oFF and return to the main screen. The fuel meter bar will disappear if you select oFF mode.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ROAD KING SOLO BUCKET AND PASSENGER PILLION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-02-2011

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Installation SOLO SADDLE ONLY 1. Remove stock seat and grabstrap according to applicable Service Manual instructions. 2. Road King standard models . Remove and save the stock screws and seat mount bracket at the back of the rider solo seat. 2000 and later models . Remove the retainer washer from the stud plate and replace with two black retainer washers (2). Be careful not to allow stud plate to fall through the fender. 3. Road King standard models . Install stock solo seat mount bracket using two stock screws saved in Step 2. Road King Classic Custom models . Install solo seat mount bracket onto back of solo seat using bracket and screws included in Mount Kit Number 52903-01. 4. Install seat by sliding front of seat into seat holder bracket. Pull up on the nose of the seat to verify that the seat is securely installed. After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be sure it is in locked position. While riding, a loose seat can shift causing loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00070a) 5. 1999 and later models . Install 1/4 in. star washers (6), spacers (4) and acorn nuts (3) onto rear mount studs. Torque to 72 in-lbs (8.13 Nm). 1998 and earlier models . Install 5/16 in. star washers (5) and 5/16-18 x 3/4 in. buttonhead screws (1) into stock mount nuts. Torque to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm). SOLOAND PILLION 1. Remove stock seat and grabstrap according to applicable Service Manual instructions. Retain all hardware for later use. 2. Road King standard models . Remove and save the stock screws and seat mount bracket at the back of the rider seat. 3. Road King standard models. Install stock seat mount bracket onto new solo seat using two screws saved in Step 2. Road King Classic Custom models. Install solo seat mount bracket onto back of solo seat using bracket and screws included in Mount Kit Number 52903-01. 4. 1999 and later Road King standard models . Secure the rear mount bracket with stock mushroom nuts (10) and two 1/4 in. star washers (6). Torque to 72 in-lbs (8.13 Nm). 1998 and earlier Road King standard models . Install solo seat by sliding front of seat into holder bracket on bike. Secure the rear mount bracket with the two mushroom screws (11) and two 5/16 in. star washers (5). Torque to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm). Road King Classic Custom models . Mount Kit Number 52903-01 is required for installation. Install solo seat (7) by sliding front of seat into holder bracket on bike. • 1999 and later models . Using Mount Kit Number 52903-01, secure the rear mount bracket with the two mushroom nuts (10) and two 1/4 in. star washers (6). Torque to 72 in-lbs (8.13 Nm). • 1998 and earlier models . Using Mount Kit Number 52903-01, secure the rear mount bracket with the two mushroom screws (11) and two 5/16 in. star washers (5). Torque to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm)

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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2006-up Harley-Davidson Single Bore Induction System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Remove the stock fuel induction system, including the manifold and disconnecting all wire connections. It is up to the technician as to whether the gas tank should be removed or just raised up in the rear. Picture 1 2- You will need to disassemble the stock induction system to remove the pre-listed parts for re-use. 3- Verify the new manifold size is appropriate for your motorcycle by sliding it in place. Picture 2 Picture 3 4 5- Slide the MAP sensor in place, being sure not to pinch the orange rubber seal—some clean engine oil may make this easier. Install the cable guide and verify it is aligned with the throttle cable actuator. Once alignment is satisfactory, apply Loctite® 222 to the 10-24 x 1/4″ screws and tighten to 18-22 in-lbs. 4- Install the new O-ring into the throttle body. A light film of clean engine oil can be used to help hold the O-ring in place. Align the manifold to the throttle body, use purple 222 Loctite® on the 10-24 x 1″ socket-head assembly screws (with flat washers) and tighten them to 35-40 in-lbs. 6- Using the new S&S® supplied gasket, slide the S&S supplied intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in place. Use Loctite 222 on the T10 Torx button head M3 x .5 x 10mm screws and tighten to 6-8 in-lbs. Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 5 7- For the stock throttle position sensor attach the “C” shaped spacer to the end of the throttle shaft, put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, apply some Loctite® 222 and torque screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 8- Install the new O-ring on the IAC motor. Lubricate the OD of the O-ring with a light film of clean engine oil. Put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, coat the threads with Loctite 222. Install the IAC motor and tighten the screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 9- Partially install the fuel injectors in the fuel rail. Be sure to orient the black O-rings to the rail and align the clocking tabs with their holes. It may be helpful to lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. See Picture 9. NOTE : These are special O-rings that seal pressurized gasoline. If you see one with damage or an abrasion—replace it immediately. Picture 7 Picture 8 Picture 9 6 10- Connect the Injectors to the manifold with a light squeezing action. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. Once in place, use Loctite® 222 on the threads of two 8-32 x 5/8″ slotted panhead screws and tighten to 15-20 in-lbs. 11- Install the backing washer and O-ring on the fuel supply tube. Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil. When the tube is in place, position the Y-shaped clip on the fuel rail and tighten the Loctite 222 coated T20 Torx button head M4 x 7 x 12mm screw to 18-23 in-lbs – Gently push the injectors downward toward the manifold to increase clearance for connecting the wire connectors. Cut the existing injector connectors from the motorcycle harness. Slide the sleeveing onto the injector harness. Slide heat shrink tubing on to each wire of the injector harness wires. Crimp the butt splices to the motorcycle harness. Move the heat shrinks over the splices and shrink with a heat gun. Slide the sleeve into place. Picture 10 Picture 11a Picture 11b Picture 12 Picture 12a 7 13- Put the stock manifold flanges on the manifold. YOU MUST USE THE S&S® RUBBER GASKETS ON THEM. Be sure to orient the tapered end towards the manifold and the flat end to the heads. 14- Hold the manifold up in its basic mounting position and connect all of the wiring harness connectors at this time. Install the manifold using the stock mounting flange bolts (from the primary side of the motorcycle) coated with Loctite® 242 and the new S&S cam side screws (1/4″ socket head, 5/16-18 x 3/4″). If a screw longer than 3/4″ is used, damage to the heads will result. Lightly snug all four manifold mounting bolts but DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. Connect the throttle cables and cruise control bracket (if applicable) at this time. NOTE: The Harley-Davidson® service manual for your model motorcycle will be helpful during this step. 15- Install the breather system now. On 4.00-inch bore or smaller engines the breather uses banjo fittings with hollow bolts and connects across the heads to the intake with a T-hose. This hose will need to be trimmed and have spring clamps attached as shown in photo. Torque the hollow bolts to 10-12 ft-lbs. On 41/8-inch bore or larger engines, install the sharp bent hose on the rear head and install the check valve with the white end towards the head. Mount the other hose on the black end of the check valve and connect it to the throttle body using spring clamps to secure the connections. Picture 13 Picture 14 Picture 15 8 16- Once the breathers are secure, install the fuel line per the factory service manual you are working with. Connect the battery and verify the fuel pump turns on to pressurize the system and there are no gas leaks, but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. At this time, PC software may also be used to verify sensor readings and adjust the throttle position sensor voltage if necessary. 17- Install two 242 Loctite® coated pipe plugs (included in kit) in the air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 16. Torque to 35-45 in-lbs. Also, two pan screws coated with Loctite® 222 must be installed in the backplate in place of the enrichment device. See Picture 16a. Torque them to 12-18 in-lbs. Failure to install these screws could allow dirt and debris into the intake system. 18- Use a new gasket on the backplate and put it in place noting the number of shims required. Once you select the appropriate shims (included) mount the backing plate to the engine but DO NOT INSTALL THE SCREWS YET

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HARLEY DAVIDSON PREMIUM SUSPENSION KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2011

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REMOVAL Front Fork Assembly 1. Refer to the XR model section of the service manual and remove the front forks. INSTALLATION Front Fork Assembly 1. Install front forks from kit to motorcycle according to service manual instructions but do not tighten the fork bracket pinch screws at this time. 2. See Figure 1. Measure the distance from the top of upper fork bracket to top of fork assembly. Both sides must be exactly the same and measure 0.388-0.468 inch (9.85- 11.89 mm) above the top fork bracket. Align the adjustment screws inline with the handlebars (see Figure 5). is06083a Figure 1. Fork Installation Height Measurement. NOTE If new pinch screws are not readily available, use a wire grinder wheel to remove all remaining lock patch from original pinch screws, wash screws in clean solvent and dry thoroughly. Apply two drops of LOCTITE® 262 to the first 1/4 in. (6.35 mm) of the end threads. 3. Install pinch screws to upper and lower fork brackets. 4. Verify fork tube installation measurement is 0.388-0.468 inch (9.85-11.89 mm). 5. Tighten pinch screws to 30-35 ft-lbs ( (40.7-47.5 Nm)) See Figure 2. The top edge of reflector should be 1-1/2 inches (38.10 mm) below the lower edge of the bottom fork clamp. 6. Remove the adhesive backing. Place reflector in position and press reflector firmly into place to activate the adhesive. Repeat for reflector on opposite fork. REMOVAL OEM Rear Shock Absorbers 1. Refer to the XR model section of the service manual and remove the rear shock absorbers. INSTALLATION Rear Shock Absorbers 1. See Figure 3. Install the rear shock absorbers according to service manual instructions. The shocks are installed with the external gas reservoir to the rear of the shock absorbers and the thick side of the grommet installed to the frame rail mounts. is06142 Figure 3. Install Thick Side Of Grommet To Frame Rail SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS Front Fork Suspension Adjustment Whenever a wheel is installed and before moving the motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00284a) Adjust both forks equally. Improper fork adjustment can lead to loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00124c) Compression and rebound adjusting valves may be damaged if too much force is used at either end of the adjustment range. (00237a) NOTES Damping is set at the factory for the average solo rider under normal riding conditions. The rider may make adjustments to compensate for individual riding styles and varying road conditions. Evaluating and changing the rebound and compression damping is a very subjective process with many variables and should be approached carefully. The front and rear preload setting will need to be adjusted for the rider’s weight and cargo. This adjustment should be made before the motorcycle is ridden any distance and after changing the overall vehicle weight (adding saddlebags, etc.). If the preload adjustment is correct, and you have the rebound and compression damping set at the factory recommended points, the motorcycle should handle and ride properly. Changes in the load carried requires changes in the preload setting(s). Carrying less weight than was used for setting up the suspension requires decreasing the amount of preload. Increasing the load carried requires adding more preload. The following tools are needed to make suspension adjust- ments. • 5 mm hex key (front fork preload adjustment tool). • Spanner wrench with extension handle (shock absorber preload adjustment). • Screw driver (front fork damping adjustment). 1. Front fork preload adjustment: a. See Figure 4 and Table 1. Using the 5 mm hex key, turn the preload adjuster counterclockwise until it stops. This is the minimum preload setting. b. Turn the preload adjuster clockwise the recommended amount specified for the rider weight

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SLOTTED HANDLEBAR RISER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-02-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE Cover the fuel tank with a clean shop towel to prevent scratching. Damage to the finish could result. 1. Remove the two hex head cap screws and split lock- washers on the underside of the upper fork bracket that hold the currently installed risers in place. Discard the screws, but retain the lockwashers for re-assembly. Retain all additional hardware components that become dislodged from the riser when the screws are removed. 2. Remove and discard the four screws that fasten the currently installed handlebar upper clamp(s) to the risers. Remove and discard the clamp(s). Remove the handlebar from the risers, and carefully allow the handlebar to rest on the fuel tank. 3. Obtain the new slotted risers (1) and hex head cap screws (2) from the kit, and the split lockwashers and hardware components removed in Step 1. NOTE The upper cup washer (A) must be oriented with the flat side up , and the lower cup washer (D) with the flat side down . The ground wire (G) and internal tooth lockwasher (H) are mounted to the right-side riser. 4. Refer to Figure 1 for the correct orientation and reassembly sequence. Install the new risers onto the upper fork bracket using the saved hardware and new screws. Snug the riser screws, but do not fully tighten at this time. 5. Center the handlebar on the risers. To make sure that the handlebar is centered, verify that the knurled areas on the outboard side of each riser are equal. 6. Position the new handlebar upper clamps (3) from the kit, and install with new hex socket head screws (4). Snug the upper screws, but do not fully tighten. Improperly aligned handlebars can contact the fuel tank when turned to the left or right. Contact with the fuel tank can cause cosmetic damage. (00372a) 7. Slowly turn the front wheel to the full right fork stop and then the full left fork stop to be sure the handlebar does not contact the fuel tank. If contact occurs and the handlebars are properly centered, raise the handlebar angle as necessary until proper clearance is attained. 8. Tighten the upper handlebar-clamp screws as follows: a. Tighten the front screws to 12-15 ft-lbs (16-20 Nm) . b. Tighten the rear screws to 12-15 ft-lbs (16-20 Nm) . c. Tighten the front screws to 12-15 ft-lbs (16-20 Nm) . NOTE The gap between the upper clamps and the risers should be equal at the front and rear of the handlebar after tightening. 9. One at a time, remove the riser bolts installed in Step 4. Apply two drops of Loctite® 271 (Red) to the bolt threads and re-install. Tighten the riser bolts to 50-60 ft-lbs (68-81 Nm)

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2008 FLT Police Models Service Manual Supplement

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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ITEM SERVICED 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Drain plug torque Engine oil and filter 4 qt. (3.8 L) Oil capacity Hand tighten 1/2-3/4 turn after gasket contact Filter 63798-99A Chrome filter part number 63731-99A Black filter part number FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAIN LUBRICATION (Part No. 99851-05) Lubricant type and capacity Primary chain lubricant Wet: 38 oz. (1124 ml) Dry: 45 oz. (1331 ml) 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Primary chaincase drain plug torque 1/2-1 turn Adjuster screw free play Clutch adjustment 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm) Adjuster screw locknut torque 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm) Free play at hand lever 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm) Clutch inspection cover torque Dipstick at FULL with motorcycle on jiffy stand and filler plug resting on threads. Lubricant level Transmission lubricant FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAIN LUBRICATION (Part No. 99851-05) Lubricant type and capacity 32 oz (0.95 liters) 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Transmission drain plug torque 25-75 in-lbs (2.8-8.5 Nm) Transmission filler plug/dipstick torque Front: 36 psi (248 kPA) Pressure: solo rider Tire pressure and wear Rear: 36-40 psi (248-276 kPA) Replace if less than 1/32 in. (0.8 mm) of tread pattern Wear 55 in-lbs (6.2 Nm) minimum Spoke nipple torque Wheel spokes 99953-99A (12 oz.) D.O.T. 4 hydraulic brake fluid part number Brake fluid level Front: 0.20 in. (5.0 mm) Fluid level (from top of master cylinder reservoir) Rear: 0.26 in. (6.5 mm) Front: 7-10 in-lbs (0.8-1.1 Nm) Master cylinder reservoir cover screw torque Rear: 12-15 in-lbs (1.4-1.7 Nm) 0.016 in. (0.4 mm) Minimum brake pad thickness Brake pads and discs 75-102 in-lbs (8.5.-11.5 Nm) Brake caliper pad pin torque Front: 0.18 in. (4.5 mm) Minimum brake disc thickness Rear: 0.25 in. (6.3 mm) 0.008 in. (0.2 mm) Maximum brake disc lateral runout (warpage) 10 lb. (4.5 kg) Upward force applied at midpoint of bottom belt strand Drive belt deflection 3/8-7/16 in. (9.5-11.1 mm) FLHTP 1/4-5/16 in. (6.4-7.9 mm) FLHP/FLHPE 40-60 in-lbs (4.5-6.8 Nm) Air cleaner cover bracket screw torque Air cleaner 36-60 in-lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm) Air cleaner cover screw torque LOCTITE MEDIUM STRENGTH THREADLOCKER 243 (BLUE) Air cleaner cover screw Threadlocker Part No. 99642-97 (6 ml) LUBIT-8 SUPER OIL, Part No. 94968-85TV (1/4 fl. oz.) Lubricant part number Clutch cable 35-45 in-lbs (4.0-5.1 Nm) Handlebar switch housing screw torque

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YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL LIGHT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet. 6. Referring to photo (2) remove 2″ of the black tubing exposing the red and black wires on the LEDs. Locate the supplied brake/tail light dual function element (a red wire at one end with a red and orange wire at the other) and wire connectors. Cut all three wires on the dual element to 3″ long. Strip the end of the single red wire on the element and both of the red wires from the LEDs then connect them using one of the blue butt connectors. Connect the two black wires from the LEDs to any one of the black wires on the tail light or signals using one of the supplied splice connectors (place both black wires into one of the holes on the connector). Using the remaining splice connectors attach the red wire from the dual element to the yellow wire on the tail light and the orange wire to the blue wire on the tail light. Turn on the ignition and check that the LEDs are working both as tail and brake lights when the brakes are applied.

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YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet.

HARLEY DAVIDSON REAR SADDLEBAG GUARDRAILS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson, Uncategorized) by admin on 18-04-2011

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Installation KITNUMBER 49087-01 1. Remove and save fasteners that retain saddlebag guardrails. 2. Replace stock saddlebag guardrails with new guardrails from kit. 3. Screw in and torque each stock fastener as follows: a. Four stock screws, Part No. 3678, using two new locknuts (1), Part No. 7667. Torque each screw to 19 ft-lbs. b. Two stock screws, Part No. 3601 using two new locknuts (2), Part No.7686. Torque each screw to 9 ft-lbs. For Domestic FLHRC/I Vehicles Only. (Does not apply to Harley Davidson International (HDI) vehicles): Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 108 requires all motorcycles to be equipped with side reflectors. Install, or have Dealer install, the reflectors, Part Nos. 59370-98 and 59371-98, which are purchased separately. Loss of visibility to other motorists could result in death or serious injury. 1. See Service Parts illustration. Position reflector so it is centered on the vertical portion of the saddlebag guard 1″ above the top end of the lower bend where the radius turns upward. Measure and use a small piece of tape to mark location for attachment of the lower edge of the reflector at the 1″ mark. 2. Remove protective tape backing from one reflector. Locate reflector above the 1″ mark. Apply reflector, using even pressure by rubbing back and forth on reflector. Repeat for other side. Note Reflectors are specific for each side. Reflectors have a flat end and a curved end. The curved end goes down. Top edge should be horizontal when positioned on guard. If not, reflector is for opposite side. KITNUMBER 49088-01 1. Remove and save fasteners that retain saddlebag guardrails. 2. Replace stock saddlebag guardrails with new guardrails from kit. 3. Using four hexsocket button head screws (4) removed earlier, attach saddlebag guards using the remaining two existing holes in each guardrail. 4. Screw in and torque each stock fastener as follows: a. Four stock screws, Part No. 3678, using two new locknuts (1), Part No. 7667. Torque each screw to 19 ft-lbs. b. Two stock screws, Part No. 3601 using two new locknuts (2), Part No.7686. Torque each screw to 9 ft-lbs

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