torque spec for riser bolts on 2014 dyna

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  torque spec for riser bolts on 2014 dyna Direct Download speed 5282 Kb/s

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How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SLOTTED HANDLEBAR RISER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-02-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE Cover the fuel tank with a clean shop towel to prevent scratching. Damage to the finish could result. 1. Remove the two hex head cap screws and split lock- washers on the underside of the upper fork bracket that hold the currently installed risers in place. Discard the screws, but retain the lockwashers for re-assembly. Retain all additional hardware components that become dislodged from the riser when the screws are removed. 2. Remove and discard the four screws that fasten the currently installed handlebar upper clamp(s) to the risers. Remove and discard the clamp(s). Remove the handlebar from the risers, and carefully allow the handlebar to rest on the fuel tank. 3. Obtain the new slotted risers (1) and hex head cap screws (2) from the kit, and the split lockwashers and hardware components removed in Step 1. NOTE The upper cup washer (A) must be oriented with the flat side up , and the lower cup washer (D) with the flat side down . The ground wire (G) and internal tooth lockwasher (H) are mounted to the right-side riser. 4. Refer to Figure 1 for the correct orientation and reassembly sequence. Install the new risers onto the upper fork bracket using the saved hardware and new screws. Snug the riser screws, but do not fully tighten at this time. 5. Center the handlebar on the risers. To make sure that the handlebar is centered, verify that the knurled areas on the outboard side of each riser are equal. 6. Position the new handlebar upper clamps (3) from the kit, and install with new hex socket head screws (4). Snug the upper screws, but do not fully tighten. Improperly aligned handlebars can contact the fuel tank when turned to the left or right. Contact with the fuel tank can cause cosmetic damage. (00372a) 7. Slowly turn the front wheel to the full right fork stop and then the full left fork stop to be sure the handlebar does not contact the fuel tank. If contact occurs and the handlebars are properly centered, raise the handlebar angle as necessary until proper clearance is attained. 8. Tighten the upper handlebar-clamp screws as follows: a. Tighten the front screws to 12-15 ft-lbs (16-20 Nm) . b. Tighten the rear screws to 12-15 ft-lbs (16-20 Nm) . c. Tighten the front screws to 12-15 ft-lbs (16-20 Nm) . NOTE The gap between the upper clamps and the risers should be equal at the front and rear of the handlebar after tightening. 9. One at a time, remove the riser bolts installed in Step 4. Apply two drops of Loctite® 271 (Red) to the bolt threads and re-install. Tighten the riser bolts to 50-60 ft-lbs (68-81 Nm)

HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA SPROCKET KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-02-2011

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1991-1992 Dyna models: Screw (5) 3739A 1993-1995 FXDL, 1995 FXD and FXDS, all 1997-1999 Dyna models: Screw (5) 3730A 1993-1995 FXDWG and all 1996 Dyna models: Screw (5) 3769 1991-2005 Dyna models: Washer (5) 6516HW 2000-2006 Dyna models: Screw, with lock patch (5) 3737A 2006 Dyna models: Screw, with lock patch (5) 3873 2007 and later Dyna models: Screw, with lock patch (5) 3109 The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE This instruction sheet references service manual information. A service manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. Do not re-use sprocket mounting screws. Re-using sprocket mounting screws can result in torque loss and damage to the sprocket and/or belt assembly. (00480b) Kit Contents There are no Service Parts available with this kit. INSTALLATION NOTES The cotter pin or spring clip for the rear axle nut must be replaced during assembly and is available for purchase from a Harley-Davidson dealer. The five sprocket mounting screws must be replaced when replacing the sprocket. Remove existing sprocket according to service manual instructions. Remove all residual threadlocking agent from fastener holes using an appropriate thread chasing device and compressed air.

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2008 FLT Police Models Service Manual Supplement

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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ITEM SERVICED 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Drain plug torque Engine oil and filter 4 qt. (3.8 L) Oil capacity Hand tighten 1/2-3/4 turn after gasket contact Filter 63798-99A Chrome filter part number 63731-99A Black filter part number FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAIN LUBRICATION (Part No. 99851-05) Lubricant type and capacity Primary chain lubricant Wet: 38 oz. (1124 ml) Dry: 45 oz. (1331 ml) 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Primary chaincase drain plug torque 1/2-1 turn Adjuster screw free play Clutch adjustment 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm) Adjuster screw locknut torque 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm) Free play at hand lever 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm) Clutch inspection cover torque Dipstick at FULL with motorcycle on jiffy stand and filler plug resting on threads. Lubricant level Transmission lubricant FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAIN LUBRICATION (Part No. 99851-05) Lubricant type and capacity 32 oz (0.95 liters) 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Transmission drain plug torque 25-75 in-lbs (2.8-8.5 Nm) Transmission filler plug/dipstick torque Front: 36 psi (248 kPA) Pressure: solo rider Tire pressure and wear Rear: 36-40 psi (248-276 kPA) Replace if less than 1/32 in. (0.8 mm) of tread pattern Wear 55 in-lbs (6.2 Nm) minimum Spoke nipple torque Wheel spokes 99953-99A (12 oz.) D.O.T. 4 hydraulic brake fluid part number Brake fluid level Front: 0.20 in. (5.0 mm) Fluid level (from top of master cylinder reservoir) Rear: 0.26 in. (6.5 mm) Front: 7-10 in-lbs (0.8-1.1 Nm) Master cylinder reservoir cover screw torque Rear: 12-15 in-lbs (1.4-1.7 Nm) 0.016 in. (0.4 mm) Minimum brake pad thickness Brake pads and discs 75-102 in-lbs (8.5.-11.5 Nm) Brake caliper pad pin torque Front: 0.18 in. (4.5 mm) Minimum brake disc thickness Rear: 0.25 in. (6.3 mm) 0.008 in. (0.2 mm) Maximum brake disc lateral runout (warpage) 10 lb. (4.5 kg) Upward force applied at midpoint of bottom belt strand Drive belt deflection 3/8-7/16 in. (9.5-11.1 mm) FLHTP 1/4-5/16 in. (6.4-7.9 mm) FLHP/FLHPE 40-60 in-lbs (4.5-6.8 Nm) Air cleaner cover bracket screw torque Air cleaner 36-60 in-lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm) Air cleaner cover screw torque LOCTITE MEDIUM STRENGTH THREADLOCKER 243 (BLUE) Air cleaner cover screw Threadlocker Part No. 99642-97 (6 ml) LUBIT-8 SUPER OIL, Part No. 94968-85TV (1/4 fl. oz.) Lubricant part number Clutch cable 35-45 in-lbs (4.0-5.1 Nm) Handlebar switch housing screw torque

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME BELT SPROCKET COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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Installation 1. Remove rear wheel. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for the proper removal procedure. 2. Remove bolts and washers from sprocket. •If you intend to install Acorn Nut and Stud Kit (Part No. 91734-85), refer to that Instruction Sheet at this time (please note that this Acorn Nut and Stud Kit does not fit Sportster (XL) models). •If you do not intend to install Acorn Nut and Stud Kit (Part No. 91734-85), retain bolts and washers for reassembly. Proceed to Step 3. 3. Position sprocket cover so that its mounting holes align with the holes in the sprocket. NOTE There is only one position which allows each hole in the cover to align with a hole in the sprocket. If replacement bolts, washers, or nuts are required, use only genuine Harley-Davidson parts specified for your particular model. Aftermarket fasteners can adversely affect performance, which could result in death or serious injury. NOTE • See Harley-Davidson service manual for proper torque val- ues; •Aftermarket fasteners may not have the specific property requirements to perform properly. 4. Install bolts with washers through holes in sprocket cover and sprocket, and into threaded holes in wheel hub. Depending on the tensile strength grade of the bolts in your particular application, tighten bolts in a crosswise pattern to one of the torque values listed in the following table: 5. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for the proper procedure and perform the following: •Install axle. •Align belt. •Adjust belt tension. •Tighten rear axle nut to 60 – 65 ft-lbs torque. 6. Check sprocket for radial runout (eccentricity). If runout is visible, mark outer edge of sprocket at the location of runout. Loosen sprocket bolts and tap the marked location with a rubber mallet. Tighten sprocket bolts in a crosswise pattern to the applicable torque specified in Step 4.

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1999-2001 DUCATI Monster INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all nuts and bolts. Remove any other steering stabilizers. 2) Cover the tank with an old sweatshirt or protective device so you don’t scratch it. 3) General concept for this mount: The new key cover is the anchor point for the stabilizer, so it must be fitted correctly as per the instructions below. The base of the new key cover must sit flush all the way around to provide the support needed. The bolt lengths are critical, so be sure you read the instructions carefully so you know which bolts go in which spots! 4) Remove the (4) 8x85mm Allen bolts that hold your handlebars tight. There are plastic plugs in the tops of these bolts that must be removed before you can access the Allen head. Replace the stock top barclamp with the one provided in the kit. 5) Tighten the 4 bolts evenly so the gaps between upper and lower perches, front to back, are even. 6) Remove the (2) 6x12mm Allen bolts and the plastic key cover that covers your key switch. 7) Fit the new billet aluminum key cover over the key switch and be sure the new cover is sitting down flush all the way around on the frame. It needs to be touching the frame to function properly. We’ve machined this part to fit precisely on the bike but each bike can vary slightly due to machining variations from the Ducati Factory. The new key cover should center itself by locating on the 2 spacer/nuts underneath. You might need to loosen the 2 bolts on the underside of the frame to allow those spacer/nuts to find their centering point on our key cover. 8) Note: Your stock key switch itself has a casting knub near its base that could restrict our new cover from sitting all the way down flush. We’ve machined a clearance notch inside our part for this knub to fit into, but it is possible it could vary from bike to bike, which might require a bit more clearance filing. Be sure the key cover is sitting down flush against the frame. 9) We’ve machined the key cover to fit over a 20mm spacer nut / .805″. If for some reason the stock “spacer/nuts” are too tall, you may have to file them slightly to allow the Billet key cover to sit down flush and touch the frame. 10) Once the key switch cover is flush against the frame, all the way around it’s base, retighten the bolts that hold the spacer/nuts secure from the under side of the frame using Loc-tite. Reinstall the (2) 6x12mm stock key cover bolts to a maximum of 6-ft/lbs . The stock key cover bolts are designed to engage 6mm of thread in the spacer nut. Do not be tempted to use any longer bolts than 6x12mm or they can prematurely bottom out which will keep the key cover from tightening. Shorter than 6×12 or if the cover is not flush, makes it possible to damage the threads. Double check these key-cover bolts after your first ride, as they may loosen after initial movement from the damper

HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORSTER, DYNA AND SOFTAIL LICENSE / TURN SIGNAL RELOCATOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate mounting bracket from the fender. Remove the two screws from the tail light lens and pull the light outward, unplug the wire connector and set aside. Unplug the turn signal wire connectors from the tail light base and push them out thru the hole in the fender. Looking up underneath the rear fender remove the wires from the clips that secure them to the bottom side of the fender. Cut the wires 2″ from the plugs as shown in photo 1. 2. Unscrew the signal housings from their mounting stems while rotating the wires on the inside of the fender so as not to twist them off while unscrewing the signal from the stem. Remove the signals pushing the wires thru from the inside while pulling the signal outward. Remove the nuts from the backside of the fender that secure the stems and remove the stems. 3. Assemble the license/turn signal bracket, turn signals. Place the smaller reinforcing bracket inside the license plate bracket. Locate the two supplied 5/16″ X 1″ bolts with holes drilled thru the center and the two supplied 5/16″ long spacers. Place the bolts thru the brackets from the inside, threads facing outward followed by the spacers. Thread the wires of the signals thru the bolts and thread the bolts into the signals and snug the bolts. 4. Mounting the LED lights a. Locate the supplied LED tail/brake lights. NOTE: this license plate holder is designed for the new U.S. standardized 7″ wide license plate. If you have an old style wider plate call us at the phone number below and we will send you a separate set of chrome brackets to work with your larger plate at no charge. b. Install the lights as shown in photos 2 & 3. Thread the wires of the LED lights thru the lower holes in the license bracket, peel the adhesive backing and press them firmly in place. Cut the wires off at about 18″ long. c. Install the license plate bracket with signals and LED lights onto the rear fender as shown in photos 2 & 3. Place the two supplied 1/4″ X 1″ flat head screws thru the license plate mounting block. Notice that the thicker half of the mounting block goes toward the top of the fender. d. Next route all the wires from the right turn signal and LED into the slot or notch on the backside of the mounting block followed by the rubber mounting gasket. Install the two nuts from the underside of the fender (Removed from the original license bracket.) onto the two flat head screws and snug them being sure the wires are all in the slot of the mounting block. Run all of the signal and LED wires thru the hole in the fender to the left of the mounting block. e. Install the license plate assembly onto the mounting block using the two supplied 1/4″ X 1/2″ flat head screws. Check the slack from all the wires and again be sure the wires are not pinched between the mounting block and the fender. Tighten all four flat head screws securely. Align the turn signals and tighten their mounting bolts securely.

2000 Honda Rancher ATV Winch Mounting Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 13-01-2012

Begin by removing the front fascia and front skid plate on the vehicle as shown in figure 1. Save the fasteners as they will be used later to re-install the front fascia and skid plate. 2. Remove the 8mm bolts on both sides located inside the front tires and on the ends of two horizontal tubes on the front tube frame as shown in figure 2. 3. Place the mounting plate (A1) inside the front tube frame. The tabs with the slotted holes facing down. The slotted tabs should align where the
two 8mm bolts were removed in step 2. Reinstall these two bolts at this time thighten to just fingertight. Install the two 1/4-20 u-bolts (B3) and locking hex nuts (B1) and flat washers (B7) at thism time see figure 3, do not tighten down at this time. so the plate can be adjusted for position see figure 2. 4. Place the rear support bracket (A4) into position
and attach with the two 5/16-18 x 3/4 hex cap screws (B6), flat washer (B5) and locking nut (B4). Adjust the position of the support bracket so that it comes in contact with the frame tubes and tighten the fasteners see figures 3 and 4.
Make sure the support bracket maintains contact with the rear frame tubes and tighten down the two front 8mm mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to a recommended torque of 12 ft-lb (17 N-m). 5. Attach the fairlead bracket support (A2) to the front frame tubes see figure 5. The support bracket attaches behind the front tubes. Space the bracket away from the tubes using the spacer brackets (A3). Attach the brackets using the 1/4- 20 u-bolts (B2), lock nuts (B1) and flat washers (B7). Before tightening the u-bolts make sure the bracket is in the correct position by fitting the front
fasica into postion and checking location. Tighten the nuts to a recommended torque of 7 ft-lb (10 N-m). NOTE: If this kit is being installed on a 00 to 03 Honda the wider fairlead bracket (A2) will need to be used. This will require the use of the
wider u-bolts (B3). The spacer brkts (A3) will not be required when installing the wider fairlead brkt

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HARLEY DAVIDSON PULLBACK RISER KIT FOR 1.25-INCH HANDLEBARS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 12-02-2011

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REMOVAL NOTES Cover the fuel tank with clean shop towels to prevent scratching. If replacing the handlebar, refer to the service manual to remove controls, hand levers, handlebar and risers. If only the risers are being replaced, proceed as follows: 1. Remove the two hex head cap screws and split lock- washers on the underside of the upper fork bracket that hold the currently installed risers in place. Discard the screws, but retain the lockwashers for assembly. Retain all additional components from the riser assembly when the screws are removed. 2. Remove and discard the four screws that fasten the currently installed handlebar upper clamp(s) to the risers. Remove and discard the clamp(s). Remove the handlebar from the risers and carefully set the handlebar on the fuel tank. INSTALLATION NOTES See Figure 3. The upper cup washer (A) must be oriented with the flat side up and the lower cup washer (D) with the flat side down. 1. See Figure 3. Align the components as shown, and install the risers (2) to the upper fork bracket. The ground wire (G) and the lock washer (F) are located on the right side only. Do not tighten the riser mounting screws (4) at this time. 2. If an appropriate Harley-Davidson 1-1/4 inch handlebar has not been installed, install one according to the Instruction Sheet included with the kit, or install the handlebar assembly onto the risers. 3. Loosely install riser caps (1) onto the handlebars and risers with the Bar & Shield toward the front of the motorcycle (Figure 1, Item 1). Install four socket head screws (3) with four washers (6). 1 is05253 1. Bar & Shield (install toward front of motorcycle) Figure 1. Bar & Shield on Riser and Cap 4. Check that the risers stay properly aligned with the handlebar and tighten the riser mounting screws following the instructions in the service manual. 5. Adjust handlebar to the desired position, verify that it is centered on the risers, then tighten the front socket head screws (3) to 12-15 ft-lb (16-20 Nm) . There should be no gap at the front of the risers.

HARLEY DAVIDSON FXD HANDLEBAR RISERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-12-2010

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Place a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to help prevent any damage during the installation of the risers. Using a æ” socket loosen the two riser mounting bolts located on the bottom side of the upper steering head. Using a º” hex key wrench loosen the four handlebar top clamp bolts. 2. It will help having a second person to hold the handlebars while you change the risers. Remove the four bolts from the top clamp and then remove the clamp. Pull the handlebars up off the risers, pull them back and rest them on top of the blanket. 3. Remove the bolt from the bottom of one of the risers and remove the riser while keeping the bolt in place. Place one of the supplied Ω” washers onto the protruding bolt, and then the new riser (Note; There are LEFT & RIGHT risers.) and mount the bolt finger tight. (Take care not to scratch the top surface of the upper steering head while installing the new risers.) 4. Place the handlebars back up onto the new risers. Install the top clamp using the supplied four black 5/16-18 X 1 º” bolts. Set the height of the handlebars to the desired position; tighten the clamp bolts evenly making sure the gap between the clamps & risers are the same. (15-18 ft. lbs.) Tighten the two riser mounting bolts securely. (20-25 ft. lbs.). 5. Turn the handlebars all the way to the left and then right checking for any pulling or binding of the wires, hoses or cables. Also check that the throttle returns freely on its own

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