tri glide steering stabilizer damper

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STEERING GEAR/ STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Uncategorized) by admin on 05-10-2011

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TEERING GEAR/STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Page 3 of 4 STEERING GEAR/STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION PROCEDURES (Cont’d) 2. Center spiral cable. a. Turn the cable counterclockwise by hand until it becomes harder to turn. b. Then rotate the cable clockwise about 2.5 or 3 turns to align the marks. (See Fig. 4) 3. Install the steering wheel. a. Align the matchmarks on the wheel and steering main shaft. b. Temporarily tighten the wheel set nut. c. Connect the spiral cable connector. 4. Bleed Power Steering System (when applicable). 5. Check steering wheel center point. 6. Torque steering wheel set nut. See the applicable vehicle’s repair manual for the torque specification. 7. Install and center steering wheel pad. NOTICE: Make sure the pad is centered and installed to the specified torque. If the pad has been dropped, or there are cracks, dents or other defects in the case or connector, replace the wheel pad with a new one. When installing the pad, take care that the wiring does not interfere with other parts and is not pinched between other parts. a) Connect the airbag wiring connector. b) Install the pad after confirming that torx screws are in the screw case. c) Using a torx socket, torque the screws to the specification in the vehicle’s Repair Manual. (See Fig. 5) d) Install the steering wheel lower cover

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Steering Stem Nut Installation Instructions & Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Sport Bike Damper Kit Installation Instructions DISCLAIMER: All GPR Sport Bike damper kits are manufactured to be used ONLY w/ the stock top triple clamp and frame. If either is modded, aftermarket or crash damaged, the kit will not install properly and GPR will not be held responsible for the consequences of improper installation due to this or any other improper mounting or modifying. The provided instructions must be followed precisely, as failure to do so can result in the GPR damper kit being installed incorrectly. An improper installation may lead to a variety of undesirable steering problems. Please take your time and carefully follow the installation instructions. As always, give us a call if you have any questions, we’re more than happy to assist you in getting the damper kit mounted on your bike properly 1. Remove the stock Steering Stem Nut (SSN) and washer from the stock top triple clamp steering stem. Carefully set the stock nut aside, as you may be using it later. Bikes requiring a specific GPR SSN to replace the stock SSN are listed at the end of this installation sheet. If your bike is on the chart, throw you stock SSN in the toolbox along w/ the washer, as you may need it at a later date if for any reason you need to remove the GPR kit from your bike. Stock SSN’s that are either ‘domed’ at the top or ‘flanged’ at the bottom will definitely NOT work, may lead to problems and should NOT be reinstalled during the baseplate installation. See #2 below for further instructions about both SSN/Steering stem and arm clearance issues 2. With the stock SSN and washer removed, place the GPR Baseplate over the steering stem on the top triple clamp and reinstall either the stock SSN or the GPR SSN provided. Torque SSN down to the recommended specs as per the owner’s manual for your particular bikes make and model. NEVER reinstall the stock washer that came on the bike! The baseplate is now your new washer. If you do accidentally use the stock washer, the arm on the stabilizer will most likely ‘rub’ on the nut. It will be too high, potentially locking the steering and handlebars, thus making your bike un steerable and unridable. DO NOT ride your bike until all installation steps have been completed and you can visually verify that there is clearance between the arm of the stabilizer and the steering stem and/or SSN. Once the installation is complete, at the #1 setting you

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Tacoma Power Steering Pump Improving Power Steering Reservoir modification

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 02-10-2011

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For my SAS I decided to add hydraulic steering assist as it comes in real handy for rock crawling. I got the Redneck Ram setup from the folks at West Texas Off-road that includes rebuilding an earlier IFS steering box along with drilling and tapping the box for the included ram. One of the down sides of adding a ram is that it slows the steering down because the stock steering pump has to supply the added volume for the hydraulic ram. Another is that it creates a fluid volume change in the system reservoir that needs to be compensated for in some way. After doing some reading on the West Texas site about how to go about modifying a Saginaw pump and reading up on earlier Toyota pump mods for steering assist setups on the Pirate board, I decided to give it whirl and see what I could do about the Tacoma pump. Chuck Gardella was kind enough to supply me with a blown pump that I could rebuild and submit to my endless fiddling and tinkering. I plan to give him my pump in return when I get this one done and installed. You need to do something to allow for more room in the reservoir for the standard hydraulic ram assist setup so I decided to tackle the reservoir first. The reason you need the extra space is because the ram is unbalanced. That is there is a rod on one side of the cylinder and not on the other side so the volume of the fluid has to change in the system to account for the volume of the rod as it travels back and forth. I calculated the volume of the rod that I have at full stroke to be about 2 oz or so. This would equate to plus or minus up to 2 oz. in the pump reservoir. Well first off, it’s no wonder why so many folks boil their steering pumps over with heavy wheeling and have so many other steering problems. The stock power steering reservoir doesn’t even rate pint sized

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Motorcycle Derived Steering / Suspension Systems

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-11-2010

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1. Examine the handlebars and fork yokes. 2. Turn the steering from lock to lock with the steered wheel both on a turning plate and clear of the ground. Cont’d Reason for Rejection 1. A handlebar or fork yoke a. deformed b. fractured c. cracked d. excessively corroded e. clamps not tight, or any bolt loose or missing f. handgrips missing or not secure to handlebars g. handlebar flexible mounting excessively deteriorated. 2. a. any fouling or restriction of the free movement of the steering from lock to lock b. handlebar grip/s or handlebar mounted control/s have no clearance with any other part of the machine when the steering is placed on either full lock c. steering movement excessively stiff or rough Reason for Rejection 5 does not apply to fork gaiters or shrouds. . Cont’d Method of Inspection 3. Examine the steering damper. 4. Examine the steering head bearings. 5. Examine the front fork assembly. Cont’d Reason for Rejection 3. A steering damper a. insecure b. ineffective c. impairing the steering action. 4. Excessive free play in the steering head bearings. 5. A fork assembly component which is a. missing b. loose c. cracked d. excessively bent, misaligned, corroded, worn, or has excessive free play between the sliding members of the forks, the pivot bearings or bushes e. restricted in operation f. fouling

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SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS/ FORK DAMPER ROD BLEED TOOL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

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33 SHOP EQUIPMENT & TOOLS SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS K&L FORK TUBE U-BLOCKS Precision machined from billet aluminum, these quality three piece sets are a handy, accurate and safe way to straighten and check fork tubes. 35-9411 36mm (for 33 thru 36mm tubes) 35-9412 40mm (for 37 thru 40mm tubes) 35-9413 43mm (for 41 thru 43mm tubes) 35-9414 46mm (for 44 thru 46mm tubes) 35-1964 35-8579 35-7995 DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling forks. 35-8578 Yamaha front forks, 43mm Kayaba YZ125/250 (1988) YZ490 (88-90) 35-8579 Yamaha YZ125/250 with UD(upside down) forks FORK DAMPER ROD TOOLS Sold each. 35-7995 Combination Fork Damper Tool Designed to hold the damper rod during assembly & disassembly of Honda XR400′s or Suzuki DR-Z400S. One end features spanner type prongs for the XR400 and the other a 27mm hex for Suzuki. 35-1964 Combination Damper Rod Fork Tool Designed for assembly and disassembly of most inverted Kayaba and Showa 41mm, 43mm, 46, and 47mm forks. Use one end for Kayaba forks and the other for Showa forks. (not required for 91-92 Honda CR models) ROD HOLDER Double sided damper rod holder. Works on Kayaba U.D (upside down) 41mm forks. 35-8580 Yamaha YZ125/250Amodels (89-90) FRONT FORK CAP SOCKET Designed to remove and install Yamaha front fork caps with female hex head. Sold each. 35-8571 14mm female socket 35-8573 19mm female socket FORK DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling and assembling front forks. 35-8576 Use for Yamaha 43mm Kayaba forks, 30mm hex YZ125 (84-87), YZ250 (81-87) IT250 (1983) YZ490 (82-87) 35-8577 Use for Yamaha 38mm Kayaba forks, 24mm hex YZ125 (81-83), IT175 (82-83), IT250 (81-82) YZ250 (77-80), YZ400 (77-79), IT465 (81-82) FORK CAP WRENCH Designed to remove the front fork caps on late model Honda CR’s and Suzuki RM’s. Can also be used for adjusting compression. One end of wrench is 49mm, the other is 50mm. Sold each. 35-7803 Fork Cap Wrench 35-8576 35-8577 35-8571 35-8573 6 Point Hex 35-8578

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MX And Enduro steering dampers Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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setting The steering damper has three external setting possibilites, ie, setting of the damper valve, high- speed valve and sweep valve, which regulate the damping area (fig.2). Low speed valve Öhlins steering damper is delivered with the low speed valve set in a basic position that gives maximum basic damping. For enduro and motocross it is suitable to set the low speed in position 4-8, depending on the track and the rider. Turn clockwise to increase damping and counter clockwise to reduce it (fig.3). High speed valve The high-speed valve (fig.4) is set between 11/4 to 2 turns from the bottom position, suitable for enduro, motocross and off-road. WARNING! For all riding purposes the high-speed valve must be loosened at least 1 turn from the bottom. Otherwise the damping forces will become too high, making the ride hazardous. 5 3 High speed adjustment Steering damper body Link arm Sweep adjustment 4 Low speed adjustment Sweep adjustment Damping sweep controls Damping sweep controls (fig.8) are located on each side off the damper body. Damping is in position 2, (12 o´clock), when delivered from Öhlins. This setting is fitted for enduro, motocross and off-road riding

Toyota and Lexus Clogged Power Steering Reservoir Filter

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 02-10-2011

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Clogged Power Steering Reservoir Filter – Toyota & Lexus Toyota and Lexus vehicles with power steering. Noise coming from the power steering pump or reduced assist from the power steering system. Noise or reduced assist may be caused by restriction in the power steering fluid reservoir. Most Toyota/Lexus-style reservoirs have a filter screen at the bottom. Over a period of time this filter could get clogged causing the restriction of fluid. Replace any hose that shows signs of cracking or internal deterioration. Thoroughly flush the power steering system; then remove the reservoir for cleaning as follows: 1. Clean the exterior and interior of reservoir with new power steering fluid or suitable solvent. 2. Blow off the filter screen using pressurized air until restriction or clog is removed. 3. Using a flashlight, check to make sure that the filter screen is free of debris. Note: Contamination may be an indication of internal breakdown of hoses, which must be replaced before operating the vehicle. Failure to replace bad hoses could damage both the pump and steering unit. 4. Reinstall reservoir, referring to the service manual for tightening specs and bleeding procedures.

KAWASAKI MULE Electric Steering Installation Manual And Removal

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-05-2012

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Remove plastic center cap on steering wheel by prying off with a small screwdriver. Remove steering wheel nut and remove steering wheel by pulling up on wheel. If wheel is tight have a partner tap on the shaft while pulling up on wheel. Note: Do not mushroom threads on shaft. Remove all screws that retain dash to body of vehicle. Disconnect all electrical connections at back of dash. Mark all wires to ensure easy install. Remove lower steering shaft bolt at rack and pinion. Remove upper bolt at base of steering column. Remove the 2 bolts that retain the steering column to the frame and remove the column and the shaft assembly. Remove lower u-joint on steering column shaft & replace it with supplied u-joint. There is a welded wire retainer on the lower dash tube where the electric motor will sit. You will need to grind off this piece and smooth. Remove the master cylinder bolt closest to the driver side and discard bolt. Your motor and module has been shipped together bolted to the bracket. It is important to follow the install sequence to ensure a proper installation. The lower shaft on the steering motor is marked on the shaft and on the motor. These marks must not be changed. If you remove the shaft it needs to be installed back in the same spot.

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FLH Harley-Davidson Bikes/ Trikes Steering Damper Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 12-04-2012

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First, we’re going to install the upper Bracket. (#8 in Fig. 1) Start by placing a clean towel or other protective material over your front fender to protect it from falling objects. Remove the 5/16-18 Allen head bolt and washer holding the top of the crash bar to the frame. Use a ¼” Allen wrench. Access is easier if you crank the forks over to one side. Line up the hole in the new bracket with the crash bar, orienting the bracket to the crash bar as shown in Fig. 1, and re-install the bolt with a drop of blue loc-tite. Torque the bolt to 15-20 ft. lb. If you don’t have a torque wrench, well, you should have one, but if not, 15-20 ft. lb. is a bit tighter than a spark plug torque, which is 12-18 ft. lb. If you are not sure, snug it down tight, but don’t try to break it. Note than on a couple of these, I had to slightly elongate the hole in the bracket to re-install the upper crash bar bolt. (Side mount bracket installation) Next, the side bracket install. (#6 in Fig. 1) You’ll need a #35 Torx driver to remove the two screws holding the LEFT passing lamp/turn signal bar to the bike/trike. Carefully remove the upper and lower screws, holding the bar to prevent it from falling, possibly jerking the attached wiring. Once you have removed the screws, you can let the bar hang, while you orient the side bracket as per Fig. 1. Re-install the two screws you just removed, capturing the damper side bracket under the light bar. Use a drop of blue loc- tite here as well. Hand tighten the two screws, aligning the lamp bar and damper side bracket. Using your torque wrench, (you did find one didn’t you?) Tighten the two screws to 15-20 ft. lb. Ok the easy part is out of the way.

TOYOTA Steering Intermediate Shaft Knocking Noise

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 13-10-2011

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Some 2009-2010 Corolla and Matrix vehicles ma yexhibitaclunk, pop, or knocking noise when turning the steering wheel to the left or right. Anew intermediate shaft has been developed to address this condition. Use the following repair procedure to remove and replace the steering intermediate shaft. Install a steering wheel lock to ensure the wheels are straight and the steering wheel is centered before removing the steering intermediate shaft. Make sure the steering wheel and front wheels remain stationary. Once the intermediate shaft is removed, do NOT allow the steering wheel to spin freely. 2. Remove the column hole silencer sheet

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