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Harley-Davidson 39mm Fork FXR, FXD, XL from 87 to Current, Light Bar N935 & N935E INSTALLATION AND OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2012

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1. Remove Headlight from Headlight Shell (Screwdriver) set aside. 2. Disconnect Turnsignal wires behind or inside Headlight Shell. 3. Unbolt Headlight Shell from Eyebrow (3/4″ Socket & Wrench). Let hang from wires. 4. Remove front Turnsignal Assemblies from motorcycle. 4a. If Turnsignals are mounted to the Handlebar use the 1/2″ Wrench. 4b. For fork mounted Turnsignals, 1996 to current, use the Torx Wrench 4c. For fork mounted Turnsignals 1987-92 use the 5/16 Hex Key Set turnsignals aside, they will not be reused. 5. Remove screw from Brake Hose Clamp and Clutch Cable Guide (Hex Key Wrench, 3/16″) located on the bottom of the lower Triple Clamp. Set aside, it will not be reused. 6 . Remove the Pinch Bolts from the lower Triple Clamp (Torx Wrench, 1993 to Current, or 5/16 Hex Key, 1987 to 92). Set aside, they will not be reused. INSTALLATION 1. Mount the Light Bar Assembly: A. Hold the Light Bar assembly up to the lower Triple Clamp, the center bracket will be below the Triple Clamp. B. Start the 1/4-20 x 3/4 Screw, with Washer, through the Brake Hose Clamp, clutch cable guide then the center bracket and into the threaded hole previously used for the Brake Hose Clamp. C. Position a Spacer between the Outer Brackets and the Triple Clamp and start the 3/8-16 x 2″ Hex Bolts through the Outer Bracket, then the Spacer and into the Pinch bolt location on the lower Triple Clamp. Do this on both sides of the lower Triple Clamp.

Yamaha Road Star EZ-Steer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 17-02-2011

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Champion Yamaha Road Star EZ-Steer Installation of the Champion EZ-Steer system is similar to the installation of the OEM triple clamp of your Yamaha Road Star Motorcycle. Much of the OEM hardware is retained and reused. It is assumed that the installer has advanced and/or professional skills in motorcycle servicing. We recommend that you use an OEM service manual and follow the prescribed disassembly, installation and torque specifications for the upper and lower clamp assembly. Recommended Procedures • Remove headlight, windscreen (if so equipped) and brackets from motorcycle. • The wheel and fork assembly can be removed as one complete unit. Disconnect the master cylinder brake line from the tee fitting below the lower triple clamp. The caliper brake lines may be left in place on the tee fitting. • Install supplied extensions to fork tubes the supplied o-rings. Apply lubricant to o-rings and extensions prior to installing to fork tubes. • Install the lower fork tube covers to the lower clamp prior to installation to motorcycle using the longer screws supplied. The two longest screws are used in the outboard holes. • Replacing the upper OEM bearing and race with the Champion supplied bearing and race, install Champion lower triple clamp to motorcycle reusing original hardware as removed. Torque bearing lock nut to 30 lb. ft. • Slide fork tubes up through bottom of lower clamp approximately 6-8 inches. Install the OEM gaskets, washers and upper fork tube covers. Do not reinstall brake line holders at this time. • Install Champion upper clamp with OEM washer and dome nut. Leave loose. • Slide forks up and into the upper clamp until top of extension is flush with top surface of clamp. • Torque dome nut to 85 lb. ft. • Ensure that fork tube extensions are flush with top of upper clamp. Torque upper and lower clamp bolts to 35lb. ft. • Install handle bars to upper clamp using OEM bolt with supplied flat washers. One washer on top, two on bottom, both sides. • Reinstall brake line holders to the bottom of the lower triple clamp using the supplied M6 NyLoc nuts. • Reinstall all other OEM parts as removed. • Bleed brakes. EZ-Steer Maintenance

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Triumph TT 600 Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 28-10-2010

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1) It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all setscrews and bolts or they will come loose. 2) Remove the stock 30mm nut AND washer , that holds the top triple clamp tight and discard them. 3) Install the new aluminum nut supplied in the kit with the Hex drive facing up and torque to 45 ft. lbs. or more. 4) Install the new “triple clamp damper mount” (TC mount), the part with 6 set screws in it , over the main triple clamp nut with the “machined register” (lip) indexing over the back of the triple clamp (see photo below). Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite, start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 5) Be sure this damper mounting bracket is setting flush on the triple clamp surface all the way around. This part is machined precisely to fit over the stock triple clamp. Due to the fact the stock triple clamp is cast, they could vary is size. Remove or trim around any obstructions that might prevent the TC mount from sitting down flush such as carbon fiber deco plates. 6) Loc-tite and engage the setscrew at the 12 o’clock (front) position first so it pulls the “register up against the back of your triple clamp. Do not tighten this setscrew, just snug it enough to secure the position of the TC mount. 7) Loc-tite and tighten the remaining setscrews evenly until they make contact with the groove and are secured tightly. It’s a good idea to check the setscrews after the first ride as they will seat into their final position and need re-tightening. 8) Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 9) (Note: You must use some heat to compromise the Loc-tite before trying to remove the setscrews or the small Allen head setscrews can be stripped easily). 10) Remove the stock front fuel tank retaining bolt and washer. You must use the longer 6×30 bolt provided . 11) Retain the rubber bushing and the spacer-washer that fits inside the rubber bushing for your tank mount. 12) The gas tank mounting hole is actually off-center from the factory on this bike, by only 1mm or so, so our frame bracket has a slot instead of hole so you can make fine adjustments in the alignment of the frame bracket. 13) Install the frame bracket so the “feet” that contact the frame are positioned to match the frame. View the photo below to see how it should look and remain straight with the front edge of the gas tank. There is a front and back to this part. 14) We’ve machined this frame bracket precisely to match the Triumph frame, so as the bolt tightens up it will pre-load the frame bracket just enough to secure it tightly to the frame. 15) Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the frame bracket, put something between the tank and frame bracket to protect the tank. Each bike will vary as to how much movement there actually is under heavy braking 16) Grease the tower-pin lightly and drop it in the tower-pin hole. It is designed to “float”. Keep the hole and shaft portion of the tower pin greased for easy movement. 17) Install the stabilizer using (2) 6×20 Allens. The link arm slot aligns with the flats on the tower pin. 18) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls.

1996-2003 KAWASAKI ZX7R INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) It is mandatory to use blue Loc-tite on all bolts. We promise they will come loose if you don’t. 2) Remove the large nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. Install the new nut that we provide which has HEX drive facing UP. You will NOT use the stock washer. 3) Torque the new nut to your factory recommended setting as they vary. Normally a minimum of 50-80 ft lbs. 4) Install the new triple clamp damper mount (TC mount) over the new triple clamp nut with the “machined register” (the small knub) indexing into the matching groove on the top, back of your stock triple clamp. The knub insures the mount cannot spin should the damper try to loosen the main nut. 5) Be sure this TC mount is setting down flush on the triple clamp surface all the way around. This part is machined precisely to fit over the Scotts triple clamp nut. The groove machined into the nut is positioned so once the set screws are tightened, it will suck the TC mount down against your triple clamp. Remove any obstructions that would not allow the TC mount to sit flush against your stock triple clamp surface. 6) Tip to save time: Before installation, using Loc-tite start all the setscrews first, until flush with the inside bore. 7) Using blue loc-tite on the setscrews, run them all in against the nut equally and then proceed to tighten each one making your way around until they are all equally tight. They should be checked after the first ride as normally they will settle into the groove in the nut and require tightening. 8) (Note: You must use some heat to compromise the Loc-tite before trying to remove the setscrews or the small Allen head setscrews can be stripped easily). 9) Remove the two, stock-front tank retaining bolts. You will replace these with longer ones in the kit. 10) Install the new “frame bracket tower”. There is a front and back to this part, note the picture! 11) Install the longer tank bolts supplied, through our frame bracket and into your tank mounting holes. 12) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole. It is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin and hole portion greased lightly. 13) Install the damper using the (2) 6×20 Allens. The link arm slot aligns with the flats on the tower pin. 14) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit is a good starting point, usually 8 clicks out on the base valve. 15) The base valve controls the immediate feel of damping forces exerted

Ktm 690 SM/ SMC/ SMR/ Duke Removal and Installation weld slag

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 04-03-2012

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1. Each bike varies with regard to welds and gussets. Review the photos first to get the idea of what needs to be done. 2. These photos may not be your exact model but depict the concept of what must be done. 3. Block the front tire securely before removing the top triple clamp so the tire cannot move at all. See photos. 4. Support the rear tire also, just enough to keep tension on the front tire so the forks stay tight. 5. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike AND it happens very quickly . 6. The main triple clamp nut adjusts the tension on the steering head bearings. Make note of its tension before removing and do not over tighten the nut. It should be seated just enough to take the play out of the bearing.. 7. The top of the gauge/light cluster is mounted to the top triple clamp. You have to take out 4 self tapping Phillips head screws to remove the gauge pod. There is one connector on the back side of that and then it comes off. Then there are two bolts that need to come out with an 8mm wrench to free the top triple clamp. 8. Loosen the triple clamp pinch bolt under the main nut and forks pinch bolts and remove the top triple clamp, taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten it to the exact amount. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal making note of how the seal goes on, (lips face downward). 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts!). 10. The goal is to allow the frame bracket to clamp cleanly and squarely around the upper half of the head tube. 11. Review your individual bike’s welding characteristics at the head tube. You’ll notice on the head tube there is a “groove” machined 360 degrees around the head tube. Everything in or above this groove must be clean of welds or slag. If this groove is visible all the way around and no welding slag has extended upward into or past this groove, then you’re installation should be easy. Any welds extending into or above this groove must be filed away, but without changing the clamping area diameter. DO NOT file away the paint on the clamping area if possible. Spend a little more time filing carefully and your bracket will stay tight. 12. Each bike seems to have not only different welds, but slightly different gussets. Evaluate your individual bike to determine the best fit. The bracket must clamp squarely and cleanly to the area just above that groove and yet SIT FLUSH all the way around the diameter of the head tube as per the photo in the lower right corner. Do not allow the bracket to protrude above the seal seating surface. Use a flashlight to see up under the bracket where it’s hitting if it’s not Flush. This bracket has clearance cut into it to clear the backbone of the frame

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HONDA VTX1300, VTX1800 R, C & S MODEL HANDLEBAR RISERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1 .Lay a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to protect it. 2. Notice on the 1800 models that there is a small punch mark on the handlebars located on the right hand, front side of the handlebars where the risers meet the top clamp/speedometer housing. This is to reference the handlebar position when re-assembling. On the 1300 models there is a punch mark on the forward facing side of the clamp, these must be installed the same way. 3. Loosen the two 19mm nuts holding the risers to the upper triple clamp (steering head). 4. Pry out the four chrome caps covering the handlebar bolts. Remove the four handlebar clamp bolts. (6mm allen wrench). While sitting on the motorcycle, pull the handlebars and upper clamp off of the risers. They may be slightly stuck and require some force to get free. Lay the handlebar and/or upper clamp/gauge assembly carefully on the blanket. 5. Remove the 19mm nuts and the risers from the triple clamp. NOTE: Be careful not to scratch the upper triple clamp when installing the new risers. Place the thin flat washers provided into the recess at the top of the riser bolt holes on the triple clamp. Assemble the lock washers provided and then the original flat washers onto the bolts provided. Install the new risers onto the triple clamp and snug the bolts. 6. Re-install the handlebars and upper clamp/gauge assembly. ( Remember the punch marks) Tighten the front bolts first closing the gap at the front, and then tighten the rear bolts. Tighten the two 19mm riser-mounting bolts securely. Check for adequate clearance and proper routing of cables and hoses.

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Honda VTX 1300 EZ-Steer Installation Instruction

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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installation of the Champion EZ-Steer system is similar to the installation of the OEM triple clamps of your Honda VTX 1300 Motorcycle. We strongly recommend that you use your OEM service manual and follow the prescribed disassembly, installation and torque specifications (except where noted below) for the upper and lower clamp assembly. Recommended Procedures • Disconnect all wiring to headlight and remove headlight, windscreen (if so equipped) and brackets from motorcycle. • Remove handle bars from top clamp. • Remove brake caliper and brackets; disconnect all mounting points on brake lines. Secure calipers to frame being careful not to damage brake lines. • The wheel and fork tube assembly can be removed as one complete unit. • Remove caps and install supplied extensions to fork tubes using the supplied o-rings. Apply lubricant to o-rings and extensions prior to installing to fork tubes. Reinstall OEM caps and o-rings. • Remove steering lock from OEM bottom clamp and install on Champion’s bottom clamp. • Replacing the upper OEM bearing and race with the Champion supplied bearing and race, install Champion’s lower triple clamp to motorcycle reusing original hardware as removed. Torque bearing lock nut to 35 lb. ft. • Install fork tube covers to bottom clamp if supplied with OEM motorcycle. • Remove OEM nylon tube cover sliders from lower fork legs and replace with supplied sliders, if required for lower chrome covers on C models. See figure on the right. • Install Champion upper clamp with OEM washer and dome nut. Leave loose. • Slide forks up and into the upper clamp until top of extension is flush with top surface of clamp. • Torque dome nut to 75 lb. ft. • Ensure that fork tube extensions are flush with top of upper clamp. Torque upper 8mm bolts to 20 lb. ft and lower 10 mm clamp bolts to 30 lb. ft. • Install handle bars to upper clamp using OEM nut and flat washers. • Reinstall brake line holders to the lower triple clamp. • Reinstall all other OEM parts as removed. • Bleed brakes.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORT WIND DEFLECTOR AND WINDSHIELD KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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HEADLAMP VISOR INSTALLATION (2004 ONLY) 1 2 is 01467 1. Headlamp 2. Headlamp bracket mounting screws Figure 1. Remove Headlamp Mounting Screws (Left Side Shown) 1. See Figure 1. While holding the headlamp (1), remove the left and right headlamp bracket mounting screws (2). 2. See Figure 5. Obtain the headlamp visor (2) from the kit. 3. See Figure 2. Orient the headlamp visor (1) between the headlamp and headlamp mounting bracket (2) and reinstall the headlamp bracket mounting screws (3) securing the visor and headlamp to the headlamp mounting bracket. 4. Refer to the Service Manual and adjust the headlamp for the correct angle. 2 1 3 is01468 1. Headlamp visor 2. Headlamp mounting bracket 3. Headlamp mounting bracket screw Figure 2. Install Visor Between Headlamp and Mounting Bracket (Left Side Shown) 1 2 3 is03212 1. “RT” or “LFT” marking 2. Hinge-pin head faces up 3. Clamp post socket faces outward Figure 3. Fork Tube Clamp and Post Identification (Right-Side Clamp Shown) WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 5. Obtain one of the lower mount kits from the windshield kit carton. Identify the fork tube clamp for right- side (RT) or left-side (LFT) installation as indicated in Figure 3. NOTE The lower grommets (4) have been pre-installed into the Lexan® windshield. 2. Insert the rounded end of the post into the socket in the fork-tube clamp, oriented as shown in Figure 5. Lining up the hole in the end of the post with the hole in the clamp. With a 3 mm hex key, fasten the post to the clamp with the flat-head screw (16) from the kit, and tighten to 6.8 Nm (60 in-lbs ). 3. Place the clamp around the correct-side fork tube with the hinge-pin head facing up. Insert the two longer screws (15) from the lower mount kit through the counterbored holes in the outboard side of the clamp, and thread the screws part-way into the tapped holes in the inboard half. 4. Position the clamp so the top surface is approximately 6 to 13 mm (1/4 to 1/2 inch) below the upper triple-tree, and the hinge pin is straight forward. With a 4 mm hex key, tighten the screws just enough to hold the clamp in posi- tion. 5. Obtain the remaining lower mount kit and repeat Steps 2 through 4 to install the clamp to the opposite fork tube. 6. Obtain the upper mount kit from the windshield kit carton. NOTE The upper grommets (4), socket assemblies (3), windshield mount caps (6) and 5 mm screws (9) have been pre-installed into the windshield. 7. Place one of the handlebar clamps (5) onto one side of the handlebar, in the straight section between the riser and the handlebar controls, oriented as shown in Figure 4. NOTE Temporarily disengage the switch harness retainer from the handlebar to allow installation of the clamp.

Ktm 625/ 640/ 660 LC4's and some 640 Adventures Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 24-01-2012

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1. There are 3 pages of instructions here. Review all 3 first! These model bikes normally require modifications. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Follow step 2 carefully. 3. Block the front and rear tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, keeping the weight pushed on the front wheel so the front tire cannot move forward and the forks are forced upward, keeping the bearing in the head tube. 4. Remove the 4 bolts holding your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way. 5. Using Loc-tite, change the lower nuts on the under side of your triple clamp that hold your bar perches. Use the “low profile” version that we have supplied in the kit. You will need access to the Allen head bolts in the lower perch halves. Without these low profile nuts the triple clamp will not be free to turn lock to lock. There are occasions where you may have to grind on the frame bracket to allow a little extra clearance for even the low profile nuts (see photo). Because the bars are rubber mounted, this clearance varies from bike to bike. Turn the triple clamp lock to lock and be sure you have clearance. You must change them now, as later you won’t have room to do so. 6. Now remove the top triple clamp taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact amount. 7. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal. The lips of the seal face downward for correct installation. 8. The new shorter bearing shroud will replace the stock tin shroud, giving the frame bracket more room to seat. 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts). 10. Only if your model is equipped with one, you will need to cut off the upper portion of the square steering lock receiver box (see photo). The steering lock stays functional as the lock-pin still engages the lower the portion of the box. Mark and cut the top of the box off. You must cut enough to allow our frame bracket to drop down far enough so the entire bracket grabs the head tube. If you don’t allow the frame bracket enough clamping surface it will come loose. The upper edge of the frame bracket should be level with the step where your stock bearing seal seats. (See photo). 11. Install the frame bracket so it matches the clamping area on your head tube, but do not tighten it yet. Do not remove the paint on the frame where the frame bracket fits. The paint is calculated as part of the correct dimension. On most LC4′s you will need to grind the weld at the back of the head tube, so the bracket can drop all the way down flush. Each bike is a little different; some require a lot of grinding and some very little. Try to remove the weld while retaining the original diameter of the head tube where our bracket will clamp. It is essential for the frame bracket to clamp to a symmetrical, round head tube. When you’ve removed the majority of weld the finished removal should be done with a file for precision clearance, without touching the area where the clamp will seat

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Honda VTX 1800 Motorcycles EZ-Steer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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Honda VTX 1800 EZ-Steer Instruction Installation of the Champion EZ-Steer system is similar to the installation of the OEM triple clamps of your Honda VTX 1800 Motorcycle. We strongly recommend that you use your OEM service manual and follow the prescribed disassembly, installation and torque specifications (except where noted below) for the upper and lower clamp assembly. Recommended Procedures • Disconnect all wiring to headlight and remove headlight, windscreen (if so equipped) and brackets from motorcycle. • Remove handle bars from top clamp. • Remove brake caliper and brackets; disconnect all mounting points on brake lines. Secure calipers to frame being careful not to damage brake lines. • The wheel and fork tube assembly can be removed as one complete unit. • Remove steering lock fromOEM bottom clamp and install on Champion’s bottom clamp. • Replacing the upper OEM bearing and race with the Champion supplied bearing and race, install Champion’s lower triple clamp to motorcycle reusing original hardware as removed. Torque bearing lock nut to 35 lb. ft.. • Install covers to bottom forks if supplied with OEM motorcycle. • Install Champion upper clamp with OEM washer and dome nut. Leave loose. • Slide forks up and into the upper clamp until top of forks are flush with top surface of clamp. • Torque dome nut to 75 lb. ft.. • Ensure that fork tube extensions are flush with top of upper clamp. Torque lower 8mm bolts to 20 lb.ft. and upper 10 mm clamp bolts to 30 lb. ft.. • Install handle bars to upper clamp using OEM nut and flat washers. • Reinstall brake line holders to the lower triple clamp. • Reinstall all other OEM parts as removed. • Bleed brakes. • OEM windshield # 08R80-MCH-100 can be used on this kit

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