trx450es 1998 carburetor ve93a a vacuum hose diagram

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Victory Freedom Engines Installation Instructions for S&S Air Cleaner Kit

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1-Locate and remove the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Locate the new position for the IATS on the bottom of the S&S air cleaner. Push the IATS in the lower air cleaner cover and turn1⁄ 4 turnin either direction, make sure you feel it lock into place. Inspect from the inside of the air cleaner to ensure that the barbs are locked into place. See Picture 1. 2-Using the stock Polaris Victory air box gasket (PN 5811908) and S&S supplied (Qty 4) M6 fasteners, assemble the lower air cleaner cover to the throttle body using 243 Blue Loctite®on the treads. Torque the M6 fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. 3-Position the S&S pre-formed air filter onto the lower air cleaner cover ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 4-Install the top air cleaner cover on top of the filter ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 5-Make surethat the filter is situated in the machined grooves on both the top and bottom air cleaner covers. 6-Using 243 Blue Loctite on the threads of the S&S supplied (Qty 3) M6 fasteners tighten down top air cleaner cover evenly until seated. Finish torque the fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. Now you’re ready for breather hose and barometric pressure hose routing. 7-Locate the S&S supplied 3⁄ 16 “reinforced hose and clamps. Push one end of the hose on the 3⁄ 16 “brass barb in the bottom air cleaner cover and slide clamp up around the end of the hose. The other end of the hose is for the Barometric Pressure Sensor (MAP). Route the hose towardthe back of the engine over the top of the rear rocker cover. 8-Remove the MAP sensor from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Remove the orange rubber gasket from the MAP sensor. Slide the S&S supplied clamp over the 3⁄ 16 “rubber hose that leads to the air cleaner. Push the barbed end of the MAP sensor into the 3⁄ 16 ” rubber hose and slide clamp up to the end of the hose around the barb. A small amount of lubricant may be applied to the barb on the MAP sensor to make installation easier. 2 S&S Air Cleaner Assembly 41-0021 (Calibration cardnot shown) Picture 1 CAUTION WARNING WARNING Plastic barb locked in recess.
9-Assemble and install breather hose as follows: A-Cut the stock Victory®hose on the straight section just behind the 90 degree bend as shown in Picture 2 . B-Slide an S&S supplied 1⁄ 2 “hose clamp over the modified stock breather hose. C-Install the S&S straight barb in Victory breather hose and position a hose clamp around hose end. D-Slide the 90-degree end of breather hose over the brass barb on the air cleaner cover and slide hose clamp in place. E-Position straight end of the S&S breather hose over the 1⁄ 2 “barb to connect to the Victory hose. Slide clamp over connection. F- See Pictures 3 and 4 for breather hose and barometric pressuresensor hose installation positions. NOTE: S&S breather hose can be cut for best fit

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HONDA VTX1300 AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the rider and passenger seats, left chrome side cover & original horn located at the top of the radiator. 2. Locate the supplied black horn mounting bracket and supplied smaller hose clamp. Notice the slight twist in the bracket. Using 2 adjustable wrenches or a vise and one wrench remove the twist from the bracket. Route the hose clamp thru the bracket. (As shown in photo 1A) 3. Install the bracket on to the left frame tube, (As shown in photo 1A) and tighten securely. Bolt the supplied horns to the bracket using the supplied bolt, lock washer and nut, (As shown in photo 1) and tighten securely. Install the supplied trumpet covers (As shown in photo 1B) by flexing the spring clips over the trumpets. Check that they fit securely. If not remove covers, make sure the center screw is tight and bend spring clips in towards center of covers and re-install. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two supplied hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns cut a new piece of hose 3 ½” long from the hose and replace the short hose on the “Y”. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly with the short hose going on the long or upper trumpet. (See photo 1C) Re-route the original horn wires. (As shown in photo 1D) 4. From the supplied wire cut 2 pieces 28″ long. Strip ¼” of insulation from both ends. Crimp 2 supplied male terminals to one end and 2 supplied female spade terminals to the other end. Plug the male ends into the original horns wires. (As shown in 1D) Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y”. Tape the hose and wires together every 6-8″ using electrical tape to make routing easier and neater. Route the wires and hose up under the fuel tank, over the cylinder heads coming out between the frame rails at the rear of the fuel tank. (See photo 2A) Locate the supplied relay and plug the 2 wires from the original horn onto terminals 85 & 86 on the relay. (See wiring diagram on back of last page of instructions) This will be the 2 outer terminals that are parallel to each other. Locate the supplied fuse, holder & wire assembly. Crimp a supplied fork terminal to one end and a supplied female spade to the other. Attach the spade terminal to one of the remaining outer relay terminals. (#30 or 87 on wiring diagram) Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the battery top cover. Remove the cover and attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the positive (+) terminal. Re-install the battery cover. 5. Cut a wire 9″ long and strip ¼” insulation from each end, crimp a fork to one end and a female spade to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors negative (-) terminal. Cut another wire 18″ long and strip both ends. Crimp a female spade to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressor positive (+) terminal. Route the air hose out under the left side cover as shown in photo (3). Hold the compressor in place against the frame tube. Note: Looking at the large end of the compressor the space between the hose fitting and the bolt mounting flange forms a “V” shape. This is where the compressor should rest against the frame. Next loop the hose around to the compressor hose fitting and trim the hose to the desired length. Attach the hose to the compressor. Secure the compressor to the frame using 2 large supplied cable ties as shown. 6. (See photo 3A) Attach the compressor negative (-) wire to the bolt on the frame (As shown in photo 3B) Route the compressor positive (+) wire along the side up to the relay and attach to the remaining outer terminal 87 or 30. Cable tie the relay in place. (As shown in photo 2B) Use several of the supplied short cable ties to secure the compressor wires to the air hose (As shown in photo 3) as wells as any other loose wire or hose.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON XL PREMIUM OIL COOLER KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Refer to Owners Manual to drain engine oil and remove oil filter. 2. See Figure 1. Remove oil feed hose (1) from oil pump. 3. Remove oil feed hose fitting from engine crankcase. Discard oil feed hose. INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 2 and Table 1. Apply Hylomar Gasket and Thread Sealant to threads of fitting (1) and install fitting to oil pump. 2. Apply Hylomar Gasket and Thread Sealant to threads of fitting (1) and install fitting to crankcase. 3. Tighten fittings to 55-65 in-lbs (6.2-7.4 Nm) . 1 2 3 1 is04015 1. Fitting 2. Oil Hose Cooler Supply 3. Oil Hose Cooler Return Figure 2. Oil Hose Cooler Return and Supply Assmeblies 4. Loosely install oil cooler return hose assembly (3) to crankcase fitting. 5. Loosely install oil cooler supply hose assembly (2) to oil pump fitting. 6. See Figure 3 for proper oil hose routing. The oil supply hose (1) should be the upper hose and the oil return hose (2) the lower hose 1 2 is04018 1. Oil Supply Hose 2. Oil Return Hose Figure 3. Oil Cooler Hose Routing 7. Remove two existing clips holding the clutch cable and wire harness from the left frame downtube. 8. See Figure 4 and Table 1. Position oil cooler clamps (7) in approximately the same position as the clips that were removed from the frame downtube. 9. Loosely attach oil cooler (4) to the clamps (7) using screws (9) and nuts (8). 10. Attach oil return hose (3) to the inboard connection of oil cooler (4) with worm clamp (5).

HSR Carburetor Total Kits Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Intake Manifold: 1. Install MAP sensor in Mikuni manifold (Twin Cam only). 2. Attach the Mikuni manifold to the engine. Align the manifold before tightening the bolts. The flange surface of the Mikuni manifold should be parallel with the front of the engine’s cam cover. Use a level or angle meter to check this. Tighten the manifold bolts. 3. Attach the rubber flange to the Mikuni manifold with the furnished 5/16″x3/4″ bolts and washers. Choke Cables: Mikuni & Harley-Davidson Route the cable with largest radius bends possible. Check the cable for free-play after installation. If there is no free-play, the engine may run rich and deliver poor performance or low fuel mileage. Harley Cable (Twin Cam Kits: 42-19, 45-4) : 1. Remove the Harley choke cable from the stock carb. 2. Remove the spring and plunger from the cable. 3. Remove the spring and plunger from the Mikuni. 5. Install the Mikuni spring and plunger onto the Harley choke cable. Change nothing else; be sure to use the Harley plastic nut, not the Mikuni nut (See Figure 1). Total Kit Installation Instructions The HSR series carburetors are precise yet durable instruments; however, like any other piece of fine equipment, they require correct installation and reasonable care to assure optimum performance and long life. Extra time spent during installation will pay off in both short and long term performance and reliability. This Mikuni HSR carburetor kit is designed to be a bolt-on application, and as such, is set-up and jetted properly for most applications. However, since Harley-Davidson motors are often highly modified, alternate tuning settings may be required. The Mikuni Tuning Manual helps make jetting alterations and adjustments an easy matter. NOTE: Carburetor Kits not designated as C.A.R.B. exempt, are not legal for motor vehicles operated on public highways in the state of California, or in any other states and countries where similar laws apply. WARNING NOTE: NOTE: WARNING CAUTION NOTE: NOTE: TK-2 6. Install the new assembly into the Mikuni carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. 7. Loosen the knurled plastic friction nut behind the choke knob and check for free-play (see Figure 2). Figure 1: Harley nut with Mikuni spring & plunger Figure 2: Choke cable adjustments Mikuni Cable (Evo Kits: 42-8, 45-2 & 45-3) : 1. Remove nut, spring and plunger from the Mikuni. 2. Install the nut, spring and plunger onto the cable. 3. Install the assembly into the Mikuni HSR carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. 4. Check for free-play. Adjust the cable as necessary. An optional choke cable mounting bracket is included in the Evo kits for custom installations. Carburetor Installation: 1. Insert the carb fully into the rubber flange, align with engine and tighten the clamp. 2. Slip the fuel hose onto the carburetor’s fuel fitting and secure with the enclosed hose clamp. NOTE: Some Twin Cam installations may require removal of a small amount of fin material from the cylinders to clear the float bowl. Throttle Cables The HSR carburetor uses stock 1990 and later Harley- Davidson cables. However, if your Harley is fitted with some other carburetor, you may need to purchase a set of cables. See your dealer for the correct cable set. 1. Route the throttle cables with large radius curves and so they do not interfere with other components. 2. Screw the cable adjusters together to make them as short as possible. 3. Connect the “close” cable first (see Figure 3). 4. Install the “open” cable next (see Figure 3). 5. Adjust the opening cable until the slide can be opened fully. Snug the adjuster lock nut. 6. Turn the handlebar to the right and adjust the throttle free-play with the closing cable adjuster to approximately 1/8″ (see Figure 4)

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HONDA VTX 1800 AIR HORNS AHVTX INSTALATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-12-2010

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1. Remove the right and left frame side covers and the seat. 2. Unplug and remove the stock horn located behind the left foot peg. Re-route the horn wires up over the front cylinder head and to the rear. Next cut two pieces of wire 36″ long, strip both ends ¼”, crimp two male spade terminals to one end and two females to the other ends. Attach these wires to the stock horn wires and route them over the rear cylinder and behind the frame tube. The end of the wires should come out near the center of the left side cover area (see photo 1 A). Connect these two wires to the relay terminals 85 & 86 (these will be the two that are parallel to each other see wiring diagram for terminal identification). 3. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns. Cut a new piece of hose 2 ¾” long, replace the old short hose on the “Y” with this. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly onto the horns with the short hose on the long trumpet, route the hoses behind the horns and connect the long hose to the short horn (see photo 2A). 4. Remove the upper 8mm (12mm wrench size) motor mount bolt (see photo 2B). Install the horn assembly using the 8 x 55mm bolt and spacer tube provided. If the motorcycle is fitted with Honda line tubular radiator or engine guards the above mounting will not work. You will need instead to locate the “J” shaped bracket and small hose clamp provided in the hardware kit (see photo 2 on instructions of multi -application instruction sheet). Thread the hose clamp thru the bracket and attach to the frame or Honda line guards as shown ( see photos 2&3 ) tighten the hose clamp securely using a socket or wrench. Attach the horn set to the “J” bracket using the 5/16 x ¾” bolt, nut and lock washer provided. Position the horns so that they are angled down just slightly then tighten the bolt securely. Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y” connector, route the hose up over the top and to the rear of the engine. Cross the hose over to the right side of the rear cylinder head, then behind the electricals of the right side cover and coming out as shown ( see photo 3 A & B ). 5. Remove the center relay from its mounting bracket by lifting it upward and re-attach it lower and at an angle as shown (see photo 3C) using a small cable tie. Route two long cable ties thru the hole in the relay mounting bracket as shown (see photo 3D). Next cut a 16″ wire, strip both ends, crimp female spades to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressors pos (+) terminal. Cut an 8″ wire, strip both ends, crimp a female spade to one end and a fork terminal to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors neg. (-) terminal. Cable tie the compressor securely in place as shown (see photo 4). Route the hose to the compressor making sure there are no tight bends or kinks cut the hose to the desired length and attach it to the compressor. Route the neg. (-) wire with the fork terminal up and attach it to the 10 mm bolt as shown (see photo 4A) . Route the pos. (+) wire over to the relay on the left side of the motorcycle and attach it to terminal 30 or 87 on the relay (see wiring diagram)

KTM 60 SX / 65 SX REPAIR MANUAL ENGINE

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Carburetor adjustment Basic information about the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 . Basic information of changing the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures  choose leaner carburetor adjustment low altitude or low temperatures  choose richer carburetor adjustment * WARNING * -ONLYUSE PREMIUM – GRADE GASOLINE ROZ 95 MIXED WITH HIGH – GRADE TWO – STROKE ENGINE OIL . OTHER TYPES OF GASOLINE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE , AND USE OF SAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY . -ONLYUSE HIGH – GRADE 2- STROKE ENGINE OIL OF KNOWN BRANDS ( I . E .SHELL ADVANCE RACING X). -NOTENOUGH OIL OR LOW – GRADE OILCAN CAUSE EROSION OF THE PISTON . USING TOO MUCH OIL , THE ENGINE CAN START SMOKING AND FOUL THE SPARKPLUG . -INTHE CASE OFA LEANER ADJUSTMENT OF THE CARBURETOR PROCEED CAUTIOUSLY . ALWAYSREDUCETHEJETSIZEINSTEPSOFONENUMBERTOAVOID OVERHEATING AND PISTON SEIZURE . NOTE: If despite a changed adjustment the engine does not run properly, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system. Basic information on carburetor wear As a result of engine vibrations, throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause carburetor malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced after 1000 hours of using. Idling range – A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the idle adjusting screw 1 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. The idling speed can be changed by turning the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Opening up – B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range – C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer

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2001-2003 XV16 Fuel Pump and Carburetor Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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Disconnect the carburetor fuel line hose at the fuel pump. •Disconnect the fuel pump wire coupler. •Remove the choke cable from fuel pump bracket. •Remove the upper engine mount, leaving the fuel pump attached to the mount. •Disconnect the TPS and carburetor wire couplers.       Disconnect the throttle cables, and then remove the carburetor. NOTE: The idle adjuster can be removed from its bracket without loosening the bracket screws. PAGE 3 of 12 HIDDEN 6mm SCREW 6mm BOLT UPPER ENGINE MOUNT/ FUEL PUMP CARBURETOR PAGE 4 of 12 Right-Hand Footrest Removal: •Disconnect and remove the brake light switch. •Remove the forward-most tie wrap around the brake hose and frame. •Remove the footrest assembly. NOTE: Leave the brake hose attached. Move the hose to the underside of the foot rest mount and support it as necessary so that it is out of the way Cylinder Head Oil Pipe Removal/ Installation: •Slightly loosen all three banjo bolts before removing them to prevent oil line deformation. NOTE: When loosening the upper banjo bolts, hold the line in place using a wrench at the flat surface on the fitting. Air Injection System (AIS) Removal: •Remove the electric starter motor. •Remove the regulator/rectifier assembly. Remove the AIS pipes from the cylinder head, but leave them attached to the AIS assembly. •Remove the three screws with 8mm heads, and then remove the AIS air filter from the right side. •Remove the three Phillips head screws holding    the AIS assembly on the frame. •Remove the AIS assembly from the left side. FOOTREST ASSEMBLY UPPER BANJO BOLT AIS AIR FILTER AIS ASSEMBLY
PAGE 5 of 12 Transfer Case Removal: •Remove the transfer case bracket first. Then remove the outer chrome cover, inner cover, and drive-sprocket nut. NOTE: There is a sealing washer between the inner case and the transfer case at the 8mm stud. Be sure to replace it during re-assembly. •Remove the two chrome oil lines between the engine and oil tank. NOTE: Retain the four O-rings for re-use. •Remove the drive pulley cover and remove the drive pulley nut. •Loosen the drive belt tension. •Remove the drive pulley, inner cover, collar, and O-ring. NOTE: The collar has a bevel on its inside diameter     for the O-ring facing inward and a bevel on the outside diameter facing the pulley. •Remove the drive and driven sprockets with chain as an assembly. •Remove the collar and O-ring. NOTE: Collar has a bevel on its inside diameter that faces inward for the O-ring. •Remove oil tank filler neck. •Remove the relay bracket on the right-hand side. NOTE: Leave the relays connected. Simply move them out of the way to allow room for transfer case removal. •Slide the transfer case out from the right side.

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Aprilia Falco Synchronizing the Cylinder Vacuum

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Motorcycle cylinders work quite independently compared to automobiles. Separate carburation, intake manifolds, exhaust pipes and sometimes even independent air filters allow the cylinders to be tuned so that one may be making more power than another. This can be due to differences in air flow, temperature, injection, or valve adjustment betwen the cylinders. Periodically, the cylinders should be synchronized. This is usually done by comparing intake manifold vacuum beneath each throttle and trimming the mixture until balanced. Some old-timers will tell you it can be done by ear, listening to the air flow in each carb throat through a tube stuck in your ear. Most modern tuners have switched to mercury sticks. Rigid tubes stuck in a bath of mercury are attached to the vacuum source. The vacuum draws the mercury up the sticks in proportion to pressure difference between the manifold and the atmosphere. In order to smooth out the individual vacuum pulses, a damping device is needed. This is nothing more than a small orifice (pin hole) restriction in the lines, placed close to the manifold with an air reservoir (length of tube) behind it. Because there is no real air flow in the gauges, there is no pressure drop across the orifice. But when the manifold vacuum drops there is a delay before the gauge pressure can bleed off and it appears steady and readable. Other types of vacuum gauges include mercury-less versions (that draw metal rods), or traditional needle, or “clock” gauges. The clock gauges are very fast acting (they are designed that way so you can see engine problems such as sticking valves). You will definitely need a damper if you choose a clock gauge. I would recommend using two side by side gauges for checking cylinder synch. The reason is, the cylinders are not perfectly independent. As one cylinder drops strength, the idle drops, and this will change the vacuum in the second cylinder’s manifold. It takes a bit of fooling around to get a cause-and-effect feel when you are turning the screws. Swapping gauges would make this difficult

SANYANG HD 125/ 200 Specifications And SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Sym) by admin on 24-11-2010

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heck and adjustment Fault condition Probable causes Loosen carburetor drain bolt to check if there is gasoline inside the carburetor Fuel supplied tom carburetor sufficient No fuel is supplied to carburetor Remove spark plug, install it into spark plug cap, and perform a spark test against engine ground. Perform cylinder compression pressure test. Check if sparks Weak sparks, no spark at all Low compression pressure or no pressure Re-start by following the starting procedures No ignition There are some signs of ignition, nut engine can not be started Remove the spark plug again and check it. Remove carburetor after 30 minutes and connect a hose onto fuel rich circuit. Then blow the hose with air Dry spark plug Wet spark plug Blowing in normal Blowing clogged 1. No fuel in fuel tank 2. Check if the pipes, fuel tank to carburetor and intake vacuum, are clogged. 3. Float valve clogged 4. Lines in fuel tank evaporation system clogged 5. Malfunction of fuel pump 6. Loosen or damaged fuel pump vacuum hose 7. Fuel filter clogged 1. Malfunction of spark plug 2. Spark plug foul 3. Malfunction of CDI set 4. Malfunction of AC generator 5. Ignition coil is in open or short circuit 6. Ignition coil leads open or short circuit 7. Malfunction of main switch 1. Piston ring seized 2. Malfunction of cylinder valves 3. Worn cylinder and piston ring 4. Cylinder gasket leak 5. Sand hole in compression parts 1. Malfunction of throttle valve operation 2. Air sucked into intake manifold 3. Incorrect ignition timing 1. Fuel level in carburetor too high 2. Malfunction of throttle valve operation 3. Throttle valve opening too wid

HSR Carburetor Total Kits Installation And Tuning Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Disconnect the battery ground wire from the battery. 2. Turn the fuel petcock to the “OFF” position. 3. Elevate the rear of the fuel tank for better access to the carburetor area. 4. Remove the coil, horn or other devices on the left hand side of the engine to allow free access to the intake manifold bolts. 5. Remove the complete air cleaner assembly, including the backing plate. 6. Disconnect any vacuum hoses and the fuel hose from the stock carburetor. 7. Disconnect the choke cable from the frame. 8. Remove the stock carburetor. 9. Evo: remove the stock manifold. 10. Twin Cam: unplug MAP sensor, remove manifold and then remove the MAP sensor from the manifold. Installation: Intake Manifold: Twin Cam only: Install MAP sensor in Mikuni manifold. 1. Attach the Mikuni manifold to the engine. Align the manifold before tightening the bolts. The flange surface of the Mikuni manifold should be parallel with the front of the engine’s cam cover. Use a level or angle meter to check this. Tighten the manifold bolts. 2. Attach the rubber flange to the Mikuni manifold with the 5/16″x3/4″ bolts and washers. To ease installation, use liqiud detergent to lubricate the manifold seals. Choke: Evo: We recommend that you use the Mikuni choke cable that is furnished with the carburetor. However, you can use the stock Harley cable (’90-’99 models only) if you follow the Twin Cam choke cable instructions. Twin Cam: 1. Remove the Harley choke cable from the stock carb. 2. Remove the Harley spring and plunger from the Harley choke cable. 3. Remove the Mikuni spring and plunger from the Mikuni carburetor. 5. Install the Mikuni spring and plunger onto the Harley choke cable. Change nothing else; be sure to use the Harley plastic nut, not the Mikuni nut. 6. Install the new assembly into the Mikuni. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut.

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