ttr125 connecting rod clearance

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S&S Connecting Rods Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Female rod crankpin end to mainshaft nuts – .030″ minimum clearance recommended. A. Install sprocket shaft and crankpin in driveside flywheel. Snug nuts only. Do not torque to final specs. B. Slide connecting rods and bearings over crankpin. C. Rotate rods on crankpin, and observe clearance between rod and sprocket shaft nut. D. If additional clearance is needed, remove material from sprocket shaft nut. Do not remove material from connecting rod. E. Repeat procedure for camside flywheel and pinion shaft. 2. Female rod crankpin end to inner flywheel rim – .060″ clearance recommended. A. While checking female rod to mainshaft clearance, observe clearance between crankpin end of female rod and rim of both flywheels. B. If additional clearance is required, remove material from flywheel at point of contact. Do not remove material from connecting rod. 3. Wristpin end of both female and male rods to flywheel edge -.060″ minimum clearance recommended. A. While checking female rod to mainshaft clearance, observe clearance between wristpin end of both rods and rim of both flywheels. B. If additional clearance is required, remove material from flywheel at point of contact. Do not remove material from connecting rod. 4. Wristpin end to crankcase and cylinder – .060″ is recommended in these areas. A. With the camside flywheel and rods mocked up, install the assembly in the right crankcase half with pistons (less rings) and cylinders in place. B. Rotate flywheel through one full revolution and check for rod to crankcase and cylinder spigot contact on both the front and rear of each cylinder. C. File or grind crankcase or cylinder spigot as needed to achieve .060″ clearance. Do not remove morematerial than needed. D. Repeat for left crankcase half. NOTE: Whenever clearancing is performed in any of these areas, do not remove any material from the connecting rods as clearancing on the rods may unnecessarily weaken them. Make adjustments to the point of contact on the mainshaft nut, flywheel rim, crankcase, cylinder spigot, etc. Connecting rods weakened by clearancing may fail causing serious engine damage.

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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S&S 106" Stroker Hot Set Up Kit For Victory Freedom Engines

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Follow the Transmission & Crankshaft section of your Victory motorcycle service manual for disassembling your Victory engine. 2-Your new S&S crankshaft and connecting rods will require assembly. S&S connecting rods aremachined to use the Orange Victory® rod bearings that are included in the kit (Bearing P/N 3514390-159). Perform rod bearing clearance inspection as follows: A-Wash or clean all of the following components: crankshaft crankpin, rods and rod bores, bearing inserts. B-Place a strip of Plastigauge®across the width of the crankpin. NOTE: Green Plastigauge (.001-.003″) is commonly used for this procedure, it can be purchased at the local automotive parts store. Do not place Plastigauge across oil holes. Be careful not to allow the rods to move during the rest of the inspection procedure. C-Mark the rod and cap at the separation line with a Sharpie®, Dykem®, or permanent marker to prevent rod caps from getting swapped from their original rod during the inspection and assembly process. See Picture2. Picture 1 S&S Crankshaft & Connecting Rods NOTE: Bearings not shown. 3 Picture 2 WARNING
D-Install connecting rods and bearing caps in the same order they were received. E-Torque rod bolts to 5 ft-lbs to seat caps. Then final torque bolts to 40 ft-lbs. F-Remove bearing caps carefully to prevent disturbing the Plastigauge®. G-Measure the widest part of the crushed Plastigauge to determine the rod bearing clearance. Do so by using the bands provided on the Plastigauge label. See Picture 3. H-Specification for oil clearance is: .00091″-.00279″ l If the resultant clearance is less than this specification, the bearings will need to be replaced with the thinner black color coded bearings, not available through S&S (Victory®P/N 3514390-067). l If the resultant clearance is greater than the specification, the bearings will need to be replaced with the thicker blue color coded bearings, not available through S&S (VictoryP/N 3514390-027). l If clearance is not within specification, clean old Plastigauge off components and reassemble rods to crankpin with a new strip of Plastigauge and the thinner or thicker bearings as determined above

HARLEY DAVIDSON ALUMINUM SHIFTER LINKAGE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-02-2011

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REMOVAL 1. See Figure 1. Remove stock shifter rod (D). 2. Adjust new shifter rod in kit to match the length of the removed shifter rod by loosening locknuts (3), adjusting the length of the rod, then tightening locknuts to 20-24 ft- lbs (27-32 Nm) . 3. For models with a straight rear shifter rod lever: Discard spacer (7). Place cover (1) over the shifter rod lever (C). For models with an offset rear shifter rod lever: Place spacer (7) and cover (1) over the shifter rod lever (C). INSTALLATION 1. Apply Loctite® 243 to threads of capscrew (5) and install cap screw through the rear of the shifter rod and into the shifter rod lever. Tighten cap screw to 13-16 ft-lbs (18-22 Nm) . 2. For 1999 and later FLHT, FLHX, FLHR, and FXDWG models: Place the rod end on the outside of the shifter lever, then apply Loctite® 243 to the threads of capscrew (5). Attach the front of the shifter rod (6) to the shifter lever with capscrew (5) and acorn nut (4) (with acorn nut facing out). Tighten acorn nut (4) to 13-16 ft-lbs (18-22 Nm) . For all models except 1999 and later FLHT, FLHX, FLHR, and FXDWG: Place the rod end on the inside of the shifter lever then apply Loctite® 243 to the threads of cap screw (5). Attach the front of the shifter rod (6) to the shifter lever with cap screw and acorn nut (4). Tighten acorn nut (4) to 13-16 ft-lbs (18-22 Nm)

SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS/ FORK DAMPER ROD BLEED TOOL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

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33 SHOP EQUIPMENT & TOOLS SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS K&L FORK TUBE U-BLOCKS Precision machined from billet aluminum, these quality three piece sets are a handy, accurate and safe way to straighten and check fork tubes. 35-9411 36mm (for 33 thru 36mm tubes) 35-9412 40mm (for 37 thru 40mm tubes) 35-9413 43mm (for 41 thru 43mm tubes) 35-9414 46mm (for 44 thru 46mm tubes) 35-1964 35-8579 35-7995 DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling forks. 35-8578 Yamaha front forks, 43mm Kayaba YZ125/250 (1988) YZ490 (88-90) 35-8579 Yamaha YZ125/250 with UD(upside down) forks FORK DAMPER ROD TOOLS Sold each. 35-7995 Combination Fork Damper Tool Designed to hold the damper rod during assembly & disassembly of Honda XR400′s or Suzuki DR-Z400S. One end features spanner type prongs for the XR400 and the other a 27mm hex for Suzuki. 35-1964 Combination Damper Rod Fork Tool Designed for assembly and disassembly of most inverted Kayaba and Showa 41mm, 43mm, 46, and 47mm forks. Use one end for Kayaba forks and the other for Showa forks. (not required for 91-92 Honda CR models) ROD HOLDER Double sided damper rod holder. Works on Kayaba U.D (upside down) 41mm forks. 35-8580 Yamaha YZ125/250Amodels (89-90) FRONT FORK CAP SOCKET Designed to remove and install Yamaha front fork caps with female hex head. Sold each. 35-8571 14mm female socket 35-8573 19mm female socket FORK DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling and assembling front forks. 35-8576 Use for Yamaha 43mm Kayaba forks, 30mm hex YZ125 (84-87), YZ250 (81-87) IT250 (1983) YZ490 (82-87) 35-8577 Use for Yamaha 38mm Kayaba forks, 24mm hex YZ125 (81-83), IT175 (82-83), IT250 (81-82) YZ250 (77-80), YZ400 (77-79), IT465 (81-82) FORK CAP WRENCH Designed to remove the front fork caps on late model Honda CR’s and Suzuki RM’s. Can also be used for adjusting compression. One end of wrench is 49mm, the other is 50mm. Sold each. 35-7803 Fork Cap Wrench 35-8576 35-8577 35-8571 35-8573 6 Point Hex 35-8578

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER ALUMINUM SHIFT LINKAGE KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Remove stock capscrews (4) and stock shifter rod (2). Discard stock capscrews. 2. See Figure 2 and Table 2. Loosen the lock nuts (5) and turn the rod ends on the new aluminum shifter rod (1) to match the length of the stock shifter rod. 3. See Figure 2 and Table 2. Slide longer capscrew (3) through the front rod end of new shifter rod (1). Place rod on the outside of the lever assembly. Thread capscrew (3) into the lever assembly. 4. Slide shorter capscrew (2) through the rear rod end of new shifter rod (1). Place rod on the outside of the transmission shift lever. Thread capscrew (2) into the transmission shift lever. 5. Tighten capscrews to 10-15 ft-lbs (13.6-20.3 N-m) . 6. Firmly tighten the lock nuts (5) against the rod ends to 20- 24 ft-lbs (27.1-32.5 Nm) . 1 4 2 4 3 is05394 1. Lever assembly 2. Shifter rod 3. Transmission shift lever 4. Capscrew Figure 1. Shift Linkage Components

S&S Super Stock Cylinder Head Kit Installation Instructions for 1984 And Later Evolution Big Twin and Sportster Engines

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-11-2010

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check Piston Alignment in Cylinder Bore The purpose of this procedure is to check for and correct possible piston misalignment in the cylinder bore. During normal manufacturing, engine components such as crankcases, cylinders, and connecting rods can be machined to dimensions within factory specifications but on the extreme ends of the tolerance range. Sometimes these components when combined together form an assembly that is borderline or actually “out of print”. The worst result is that the pistons can run cocked in the cylinder bores causing the connecting rods to thrust to the sides exerting unnecessary stress on the pistons, rings, rod bearings and other related parts. This procedure is not the same as “blue printing”, but it provides almost the same result. We feel that not enough emphasis is given to checking the piston alignment in the cylinder bore. NOTE – All engines should be checked upon disassembly. This applies to any engine receiving new pistons which includes those being completely overhauled. CAUTION – Pistons which do not run true in cylinder bores may cause excessive connecting rod side thrusting. This may lead to premature ring, piston, connecting rod and rod bearing wear and eventual failure of these parts. Visual Procedure A. Reinstall cylinders on old pistons without rings. Hold cylinders securely in place. B. Move piston tight toward camside of engine. C. Turn engine over in normal direction of travel 2 or 3 revolutions and observe piston during process. D. Move piston toward driveside of engine and repeat Step C. If misalignment exists, piston will appear closer to cylinder wall at one point around circumference. Condition can be corrected by bending rod in opposite direction. Figure 1 shows an exaggerated side view. E. Repeat Steps B to D for other cylinder. F. Remove pistons and cylinders. Observe pistons for wear spots on sides above top compression ring. If either side near wristpin is worn clean while side opposite is carboned up, then piston was not running straight and true in cylinder bore. Piston will also generally show diagonal wear pattern on thrust faces of skirts and possibly signs of connecting rod to wristpin boss contact inside piston.

HARLEY-DAVIDSON V-ROD BIG BORE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The cylinder sleeves provided with the Wiseco V-Rod big bore kit have been finished honed to size and the piston to cylinder clearance has been set. Prior to installation, the sleeves must be washed in hot soapy water (not parts washer solvent) and dried. Coat the bore surface with motor oil and wipe it with a white towel. If the towel shows any remaining grit, repeat the hot soapy water washing process until the towel will only show clean motor oil. CAUTION: Test fit the cleaned sleeve (without O-Rings installed) into the engine block. Sleeve should drop into position. If sleeve will not easily drop into position, warm the engine block with a hair dryer until sleeve will drop into position. Remove sleeve, then continue installation procedures. From the bottom side of the sleeve, gently roll the 2-cylinder sleeve O-rings into the two grooves on each sleeve. Apply motor oil to the O-rings and gently install the sleeves into the block until bottomed. CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL SLEEVES WITHOUT LUBRICATING THE O-RINGS. FAILURE TO LUBRICATE O-RINGS COULD RESULT IN TORN OR DAMAGED O-RINGS THAT WOULD NOT BE EVIDENT UNTIL ENGINE WAS STARTED. INCORRECTLY INSTALLED O-RINGS CAN RESULT IN CATASTROPHIC ENGINE DAMAGE. NOTE: REFER TO THE OEM SERVICE MANUAL FOR ALL TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS PISTON RING PREPARATION Wiseco V-Rod pistons incorporate an advanced 2 ring system • The top ring is file-fit, and as such, requires that the end gap must be clearanced. The proper end gap clearance is .016-.018″ with the ring installed squarely in the bore. The top ring must be installed on the piston with the dot marking toward the top of the piston. • The oil ring is comprised of the expander and two rails. Install the expander first, and then the rails. Check to make sure the expander tips have not overlapped. It is not necessary to clearance the end gaps on the oil rails. The rails should be installed without modification. PISTON INSTALLATION The Wiseco V-Rod big bore kit is supplied with pistons that are front and rear cylinder specific. Install the front piston 4792M10795 in the front cylinder with the arrow facing the front of the engine. Install the rear piston 4793M10795 in the rear cylinder with the arrow facing the front of the engine. A piston ring compressor is required to install the pistons into the cylinders. Front of engine ➔ 4792M10795 ( Front piston) 4793M10795 ( Rear piston) FWD 4793M10795 FWD 4792M10795 For further information call the Wiseco Tech Line:

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Harley Davidson Five Speed Transmissions Hydraulic Clutch Modification

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Hydraulic Clutch Modification for Harley Davidson With Champion Reverse Gear 1 1.1 Install Reverse Gear Assembly to gearbox. 1.2 Remove clutch cover (left side). 1.3 Remove Release Plate (clutch adjustment) and Push Rods. 1.4 Install Hydraulic Clutch Release Cover with supplied spacer and two gaskets. 1.5 Bleed clutch system. NOTE: When bleeding clutch system, lever feel will become hard, do not force lever because piston is at end of travel.(Continue Bleeding) 2 2.1 Install Push Rod. 2.2 Push the rod into clutch assembly to force hydraulic piston to its start position. Push the rod hard until the clutch cylinder is fully compressed. This is the start position. 2.3 Install Hydraulic Clutch Throw-Out Bearing Holder and bearing to push rod. Do not install circlip at this time. 2.4 If the throw-out bearing holder does not fully seat into the Pressure Plate (Figure 2.4), proceed to step 2.5. If shaft is too short then use throw-out bearing holder from Champion Reverse Gear Kit, skip next step and proceed to 3.0 2.5 Measure distance between bearing holder and pressure plate (ensure that push rod is pushed in) Figure 2.4 2.6 Remove bearing holder and push rod, reinstall bearing holder until seated (without push rod). Measure distance from pressure plate to bearing holder. Figure 2.6 2.7 Add measurements taken in steps 2.5 and 2.6 2.8 Add 0.090″ to total of step 2.7 (allowance for clutch plate wear). Measurement should be approximately 1/8″. 2.9 Measure push rod length. 2.10 Subtract measurement of step 2.8 from measurement of step 2.9 (push rod length). This measurement represents the amount of material to be removed from ball end of push rod. (Step 2.11)

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Yamaha Roadliner And Stratoliners Brake Pedal Relocation Kit

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. This kit replaces the original rear brake actuating rod that connects the pedal to the master cylinder (see photo 1A) and the brake light switch spring (see photo 1B). Remove the two allen screws which attach the switches mounting plate to the frame (1C). Remove the spring. 2. Remove the cotter pin and washer from the forward end of the rod where it connects to the brake pedal (photo2A). Slide the rod over off of the brake pedal. Unscrew the rod from the threaded stud on the master cylinder. 3. Thread the new rod onto the stud until the end of the stud appears in the middle of the small sight hole that is cross drilled thru the rod (1D). Place the forward end of the rod back onto the brake pedal. Next check the distance between the bottom of the brake pedal and the top of the floorboard, this should be approximately 1 ¾”. If not, slide the rod off the pedal and thread it in or out to adjust the pedal height. With the rod on the pedal re-install the washer and cotter pin (Note: the cotter pin should go into the hole from the top down) then bend the cotter pin open. 4. Replace the brake light spring with the new one supplied. (Pushing down on the switches rubber cover will push the pin out). Re-install the switch bracket. Turn on the ignition and adjust the threaded collar on the brake switch so that the brake light comes on just as you feel some resistance when pushing on the pedal (when the brakes begin to drag).

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