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4-STROKE TRIUMPH SINGLE CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

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Honda CG125 Owners Workshop Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 25-11-2010

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Clean the air filter Pull off the right-hand side panel and remove the two nuts which secure the air filter cover. Withdraw the cover, checking that the sealing gasket is in good condition, pull out the retaining spring and withdraw the element assembly. Peel off the inner and outer foam sleeves. Wash all components in white spirit (Stoddard solvent) or in warm water and detergent and dry them thoroughly. Soak the foam sleeves in the specified oil, then squeeze them gently (do not wring them out or they will be damaged) to expel all surplus oil. Refit the sleeves to the element frame. On reassembly ensure that all components are correctly fitted so that unfiltered air cannot bypass the element. 2 Check the spark plug Remove the spark plug cap, unscrew the plug and check its condition, comparing it with the photographs on page 65. If it is badly worn or fouled it must be renewed. If it is fit for further service check the gap and reset it if necessary, as described in Chapter 3.8. 3 Check the valve clearances It is important that the correct valve clearance is maintained. A small amount of free play is designed into the valve train to allow for expansion of the various components. If the setting deviates greatly from that specified, a marked drop in performance will be evident. In the case of the clearance becoming too great, it will be found that valve operation will be noisy, and performance will drop off as a result of the valves not opening fully. If on the other hand, the clearance is too small the valves may not close completely. This will not only cause loss of compression, but will also cause the valves to burn out very quickly. In extreme cases, a valve head may strike the piston crown, causing extensive damage to the engine. The clearances should be checked and adjusted with a cold engine. Place the machine on its centre stand and remove the rocker cover, taking care not to damage the 0 ring. Remove the gearchange pedal and the left-hand outer cover to expose the generator rotor. Remove plug and allow old oil to drain Remove the spark plug, then slowly rotate the engine anticlockwise by way of the generator rotor, watching the inlet valve. When it has opened and closed again (sunk down and risen up to its original position), rotate the engine further until the T mark on the rotor periphery aligns exactly with the raised index mark which is positioned between 12 and 1 o’clock (from the crankshaft) on the generator stator. The engine will then be in the correct position for checking the valve clearances, namely at Top Dead Centre (TDC) on the compression stroke; check that there is free play at both rockers. Using a 0.08 mm (0.003 in) feeler gauge, check the clearance between the top of each valve stem and its corresponding rocker. The feeler gauge must be a light sliding fit, with the rocker and valve stem just nipping it. If necessary, slacken the locknut, and turn the small square-headed adjuster to obtain the correct setting. Tighten the locknut, holding the adjuster at the same time to prevent it from moving. Finally, recheck the setting and then repeat the procedure on the other rocker. 4 Check the contact breaker points and ignition timing Note: since the generator stator plate is located by its countersunk retaining screws, the ignition timing can only be altered by opening or closing the contact breaker gap; therefore both operations are described as one. The full procedure is given here for ease of reference, but if the points are found to be in good condition and if the gap has not altered or is within the tolerance, then the ignition timing will be sufficiently accurate and there will be no need to carry out the full check. First remove the gearchange pedal, the left-hand outer cover, the spark plug and the left-hand side panel

BMW Motorcycle F 650 GS/ F 800 GS Accessories

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 20-11-2010

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Stowage-equipment line Vario case, black, left 71 60 7 696 299 £184 / G Vario case, black, right 71 60 7 696 300 £185 / G (+) Case carrier for Vario case, including fasteners 71 60 7 696 301 £144 / G (+) Lock barrel, complete, for 2 cases 51 25 7 688 566 £20.80 / I (o) Lock barrel by code for vehicle and/or case matching locks (order 2x) 51 25 7 681 199 £33.59 (o) Lock-barrel set 51 25 7 698 202 £15.20 / I Liner for Vario case, left 71 60 7 687 610 £67 / I Liner for Vario case, right, and Vario topcase 71 60 7 687 611 £67 / I Vario topcase, black 71 60 7 696 302 £225 / I (+) Luggage rack, large, for Vario topcase (including adapter plate) 71 60 7 696 303 £64 / I (+) Lock barrel for topcase 51 25 7 688 568 £12.50 / I (o) Lock barrel by code for vehicle and/or case matching locks (order 1x) 51 25 7 681 199 £33.60 / I (o) Lock barrels for 2 cases and topcase 51 25 7 688 567 £29.10 / I Liner for Vario case, right, and Vario topcase 71 60 7 687 611 £67 / I Backrest pad for topcase 71 60 7 688 877 £45 / I Luggage carrier, small 71 60 7 701 810 £42.90 / G Tank rucksack, waterproof 71 60 7 711 240 £130 / I Enduro rear softbag 71 60 7 711 245 £35.90 / I Sport softbag, small, 19 l 71 60 7 694 117 £102 / I Sport softbag, large, 51 l 71 60 7 693 567 £139 / I Stuffbag, waterproof, 53 l 72 60 7 653 818 £90 / I Luggage strap with pull-tight buckle 72 60 2 304 808 £6.30 / E Bungee-cord spider 72 60 9 057 579 £3.95 / E Design line Spray-guard extension, rear 71 60 7 695 031 £24.20 / I Sound components Akrapović sports silencer 71 60 7 713 339 *1 £475 / G Ergonomics and comfort line Windscreen, large, tinted 71 60 7 713 834 *1 £138 / I Windscreen, large, clear (standard for F 800 GS) 71 60 7 713 833 £127 / I Windscreen, small, clear (standard for F 650 GS) 71 60 7 713 296 £87 / I Centre stand (F 650 GS) 46 52 7 700 864 *2 £83 / I Centre stand (F 800 GS) 46 52 7 700 049 *2 £91.50 / I (+) Fasteners for centre stand (F 650 GS + F 800 GS) 71 60 7 706 738 £24.90 / I Seat, low, black, 790 mm (F 650 GS), 850 mm ( F 800 GS) 52 53 7 695 013 £174 / I Heated handlebar grips and switches (see electronic parts catalogue) Navigation and communication components BMW Motorrad Navigator III plus 2008 72 60 7 716 116 *1 £650 / I (+) Holder for BMW Motorrad Navigator 71 60 7 697 785 £45.80 / E (+) Securing screw (order 4 of) 32 71 7 652 161 £4.55 / I Connecting cable for BMW Motorrad Navigator 71 60 7 686 670 £55 / E TMC module for BMW Motorrad Navigator 72 60 7 702 687 *1/3 £111 / E Car kit for BMW Motorrad Navigator 72 60 7 703 996 *3 £60.50 / E Navigator carry-bag function 71 60 7 683 161 £49 / I Safety line Hand-protector bar 71 60 7 716 043 £57 / I (+) Countersunk-head screw (order 2 of) 32 71 7 712 836 £3.34 / E Hand protector, small 71 60 7 705 963 £19.50 / I Hand protector, large 71 60 7 715 135 £23.10 / I Protector-mounted spoiler for hand protector, large 71 60 7 705 964 £15.20 / I Crash bar, left 71 60 7 699 437 £104 / I Crash bar, right 71 60 7 699 438 £104 / I (+) Fasteners for crash bar 71 60 7 702 395

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Yamaha YZ400/426F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Cleanliness is always a good place to start. Make sure the motorcycle is cleaned thoroughly before you start. It would be advisable to use an engine degreaser on the frame and the engine. This will ensure a clean engine during the assembly process and less of a chance of thread damage and/or dirt contamination in the engine during reassembly. And as always, replace any fiber-based gasket that was moved in any way, i.e.: cam chain tensioner. You will need basic hand tools and a torque wrench, machine towels (rags), some cleaning solvent, and a cam chain tensioner gasket. And the Hot Cams’ Degree Wheel Kit if you so desire. We will start by removing the tank and seat, top engine mount, and the cam cover. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise (CCW) direction. Position the engine on top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel or better yet a degree wheel using a positive stop. Be sure to notice that the intake valves were the last to move, this will ensure the engine of being on “true” TDC. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the Page 1
beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Note the positioning of the cam lobes (their included angle will be close to 170 degrees), this will help during the installation of your new Hot Cams camshafts Remove the cap bolt on the end of the cam chain tensioner block, be aware of the copper washer. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by turning the flat blade screw slot inside the adjuster block in a clockwise (CW) direction; it will lock in the retracted position. Remove the two 8mm headed bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner to the cylinder block. Remove and discard the gasket. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that secure the intake cam cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft

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Honda XR600/ XR650L Camshaft Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-12-2011

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Remove the tappet covers. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise direction. Position the engine at true top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Since the rocker arms are located in the valve cover on an XR600, true TDC occurs when the cam lobes are pointed downward when the piston is at TDC. Remove the cylinder head cover. Warning, do not drop the locating dowels into the cam chain cavity. There are two dowels, one on either side of the cover. Remove and discard the gasket. Note the positioning of the cam lobes, this will help during installation of your new Hot Cams camshaft. Note also the location of the sealed bearing on the end of the camshaft and the direction in which it is facing. Loosen the bolts that hold the camshaft sprocket. Remove the lower camshaft sprocket bolt first, it will be necessary to rotate the engine. Rotate the engine back to TDC. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by lifting the end of the spring out of its hole in the tensioner block. A spring tool is a good method. Be careful not to scar the cylinder head’s gasket surface for the cylinder head cover. Remove the allen bolt that holds the end of the tensioner block shaft
just to the inside of the tensioner block. Note the location of the tensioner block shaft cap ridge. Using a pair of pliers pull the shaft out by grasping the ridge and using a clockwise rotation of the shaft while pulling outward. Pull the tensioner block upwards, out of the cylinder head. Remove the top camshaft sprocket bolt. Pull the sprocket off the camshaft but maintain upward tension, do not allow the chain to sag, it is possible for the chain to “slip” on the bottom sprocket of the crankshaft and change the cam timing. Remove the camshaft. Remove the cam bearings. Set the stock camshaft with the auto-decompression aside. It is not possible to use the auto-
decompression on the Hot Cams so do not attempt to re-install. Use a manual decompression. Install the bearings onto the new Hot Cam

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2010 APRILIA Shiver Technical Specifications

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 06-11-2010

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Engine type Aprilia V90 four-stroke longitudinal 90° V-twin engine, liquid cooled, double overhead camshaft with mixed gear/chain timing system, four valves per cylinder. Fuel Unleaded petrol Bore and stroke 92 x 56.4 mm Total engine capacity 749.9 cc Compression ratio 11: 1 Maximum power at crankshaft 95 hp at 9,000 rpm Maximum torque at crankshaft 8.25 kgm at 7,000 rpm Fuel system Ride by Wire integrated engine control system. Ignition Digital electronic ignition integrated with injection system. Starting Electric Exhaust system 2 into 1 exhaust system in 100% stainless steel with three-way catalytic converter and lambda probe Alternator 450 W at 6,000 rpm Lubrication Wet sump Gearbox 6 speeds, drive ratio: 1st 36/14 (2.57) 2nd 32/17 (1.88) 3rd 30/20 (1.5) 4th 28/22 (1.27) 5th 23/26 (0.88) 6th 24/25 (0.96) Clutch Multiple discs in oil bath, hydraulically operated Primary drive Straight cut gears, drive ratio: 60/31 (1.75) Secondary drive Chain. Drive ratio: 16/44 Chassis Modular tubular steel frame fastened to aluminium side plates by high strength bolts. Removable rear subframe. Front suspension Upside down fork with * 43 stanchions. Wheel travel 120 mm. Rear suspension Aluminium alloy swingarm; with swingarm stiffener brace. Hydraulic shock absorber with adjustable rebound and preload. Wheel travel 130 mm. Brakes Front: Dual * 320 mm diam. wave stainless steel floating disc. Radial callipers with four pistons. Metal braided brake pipe. 2-channel Continental ABS system Rear: Stainless steel disc * 245 mm. Single piston calliper. Metal braided brake pipe. Wheel rims Aluminium alloy Front: 3.50 X 17″ Rear: 6.00 x 17″ Tyres Radial tubeless tyres; front: 120/70 ZR 17 rear: 180/55 ZR 17 Dimensions Max. length 2,265 mm Max. width 810 mm (at handlebar) Max. height 1,135 mm (at instrument panel) Saddle height 800 mm Centre to centre distance 1,440 mm Trail 109 mm Steering angle 25.7° Tank 15 lt

AJS Fork Seal and Top Bush Removal Repair/ Service Procedure

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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For those of you, like me (writes old Tom, of the doughty Bristol Section), who have to dismantle the front forks, and have got to the stage when the seals and bush have to be removed… Here the workshop manual states that a swift jerk or upward movement of the stanchion should shock out the seal and bush. It is more likely that nothing happens! I have always managed to remove the seals and bush by the following method: Obtain one block of wood 3″ x 3″ or 4″ x 3″ and 5″ long. Drill a hole 1 1/8″ or 1 ¼” and then saw the wood in half along the centre line of the hole. Glue in two pieces of emery cloth to aid grip on your stanchion. Place into a vice with a dummy tube of the right diameter (same as your fork leg) and leave for the glue to set the emery cloth into place. Then obtain two pieces of hardwood or 1″ ply, 8″ x 6″ and drill 1 1/8″ or 1 ¼” hole in centre. Also obtain a piece of hardwood 1ft x 6″ x 1″ and cut to form two wedges as shown in the drawing. To use the withdrawal jig, place the two large blocks over the inner stanchion to butt against the lower stanchion. Now fit the two halves of the split block inner stanchion. Clamp the split blocks in a vice while a colleague tensions the rebound spring. The wedges are now placed between the larger blocks and the lower stanchions, which is heated to aid removal. Drive in the wedges to push the lower stanchion away from the fixed inner stanchion

APRILIA PEGASO 650 STRADA Assembling instructions

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 06-11-2010

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Centre stand APRILIA PEGASO 650 STRADA Item-No.: 505.791 2 quantitem no. description 1 712.1002centre stand 2 151.124 bolt 17,7 x ø40 2 150.994 washer ø19 x ø30 x 2,7 4 150.995 washer ø8,4 x 3 2 150.841 hexagon bolt screw M 8 x 30 2 150.978 retaining pin 3,2 x 40 1 150.979 spring set Typ 5 1 275.001 limitation rubber The kit includes the following parts: Please check now the function of your centre stand and control all screw connections after the assembly for tightness! General: Centrestand cornering clearance: HEPCO & BECKER centerstands are carefully designed and tested to eliminate reductions in cornering clearance and ground clearance under most driving conditions on an unmodified stock motorcycle, and are certified to be compliant with European ABE safety standards. Use of any centrestand may reduce corning clearance or ground clearance under extreme driving situations. HEPCO & BECKER products should be installed by a qualified, experienced motorcycle technican. If you are unsure of your ability to properly install a product, please have the product installed by your local motorcycle dealer. HEPCO & BECKER takes no resposibility for demages caused by improper installation. All screws, bolts, and nuts, including all replacement hard ware provided by HEPCO & BECKER, should be tightened to the torque specified in the OEM maintenance manual for your motorcycle. If no torque specifications are provided in the OEM maintenance manual, the following torques may be used: M 6 – 9,6 Nm M 8 – 23 Nm M 10 – 46 Nm All screws, bots und nuts should be checked after driving the first 50 km to ensure that all are tightened to the proper torque. Medium strength liquid thread-locker (i.e., „Locktite”

HONDA CBX 750F (RC17) OWNERS MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Front air pressure adjustment: 1. Place the motorcycle on its centre stand. Do not use the side stand, or you will get false pressure readings. 2. Remove the front fork air valve cap (1). Check the air pressure. NOTE: Some pressure will be lost when removing the gauge from the valve. Determine the amount of loss and compensate accordingly. 3. Add air to the recommended pressure. NOTE: We recommend that you do not exceed the recommended air pressure or the ride will be harsh and uncomfortable. 4. Reinstall the front fork air valve cap. Rear air pressure adjustment: 1. Place the motorcycle on its centre stand. 2. Do not use the side stand, or you will get false pressure readings. 3. Remove the right side cover. 4. Remove the valve air cap (2). Check the air pressure with an air pressure gauge. NOTE: Some pressure will be lost when removing the gauge from the valve. Determine the amount of loss and compensate accordingly. 5. If required, add air up to the recommended pressure. 6. Reinstall the air valve cap (2) and the right side cover

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DUCATI MONSTER 696 Owner's manual and maintenance manual

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 14-12-2010

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instrument panel (fig. 4) 1) LCD (see page13). 2) Tachometer (rpm). Indicates engine revs per minute. 3) Neutral (N) indicator ( green ). Illuminates when the gearbox is in neutral. 4) Fuel warning light ( yellow ). Illuminates when there are approximately 3litres of fuel left in the tank. 5) Turn signal indicator light ( green ). Illuminates and flashes when the turn signal is in operation. 6) Engine oil pressure warning light ( red ). Illuminates when engine oil pressure is too low. This light should illuminate when the ignition is switched to ON and should go out a few seconds after the engine starts. Important If this light (6) stays on, stop the engine to avoid serious damage. 7) High beam warning light ( blue ). Illuminates when the high beam headlight is on. 8) “EOBD engine diagnostics light” ( amber ). The engine ECU iluminates this light steadily to indicate the presence of errors leading to engine lock. 9) OVER REV indicator lights . Illuminates steadily at 800 rpm before intervention of the revlimiter. Starts flashing when the rev limiter is reached. 5 8 2 4 9 3 1 6 7 fig. 4 12 E 10) 2-position switch A and B . Switch used for displaying and setting instrument panel parameters. It has two positions, A “▲” and B “▼”. 11) High beam headlight flasher switch (fig. 5). The high beam headlight flasher switch is also used for the LAP and USB data aquisition functions. 11 A 10 B fig. 5 13 E LCD – Main functions Warning Any adjustments to the instrument panel must only be carried out when the motorcycle is stationary. Never operate the instrument panel controls while riding the motorcycle. 1) Speedometer . Indicates road speed. 2) Odometer . Shows total distance travelled. 3) Trip meter . Indicates the distance travelled since last reset. 4) Fuel reserve trip counter . Shows distance travelled on reserve fuel. 5) Clock . 6) Air temperature indicator . 7) Lap time . 8) Rev counter (RPM) . 9) Lap time . 8 11 13 12 14 10 4 5 9 6 2 3 1 7 fig. 6 14 E 10) Service indicator (fig. 6). The indicator illuminates to signal when a service is due. The service indiactor will remain on the display until the system is reset by the Ducati Service Centre who carry outthe service. 11) LAP function (fig. 6). Indicates that the LAP has been activated. 12) DDA function (fig. 6). Indicates that the Ducati Data Analyzer (DDA) has been activated. Important The instrument panel incorporates diagnostic functions for the electronic injection/ignition system. The relative menus are for the use of trained personnel only. If you accidentally access this function, turn the key to OFF and have the motorcycle checked at an authorised Ducati Service Centre. 13) Oil temperature indicator (fig. 6). Important Stop riding if the temperature reaches the maximum value, otherwise the engine might be damaged. 14) Ducati Traction Control (DTC) (fig. 6). Indicates activation of the DTC control unit (if present). 15 E LCD – How to set/display parameters At key-on (key turned from OFF to ON ) the instrument panelactivates all the digits of the LCD for 1second and switches on the indicator lights in sequence.

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