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Kawasaki 2000- ZX-12R Ninja exhaust system Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the lower fairing. Remove the lower radiator mounting bolts, loosen the upper bolts and pivot the radiator forward to provide access to the exhaust nuts (flange nuts). Remove the oil cooler mounting bolts and pivot the oil cooler forward to provide access. 2. Remove the existing exhaust system and save the flange nuts for reuse. Save the stock exhaust can mounting bolt and nut for reuse as well. 3. Inspect the exhaust gaskets. Replace if necessary. 4. Assemble the head pipes 1, 2, 3, and 4 by matching the joints of the same color to the pair of front Y-pipes. Do not install the exhaust springs at this time. 5. Place a billet aluminum Mouthpiece ring Z on each TiForce head pipe. (see figure 3 for details) . 6. Attach the assembled head pipe sections to the exhaust ports, but do not tighten the flange nuts fully, allowing for some adjustment in the remaining steps. Reuse the flange nuts saved from step 2 above. Make sure the ends of the head pipes fit flush and snug in the ports and Mouthpiece ring Z before tightening. 7. Install the S-Bend to the front section of the head pipes and two Y-pipes. 8. Go back and retighten the head pipe flange nuts per factory specifications – make sure the head pipes and Mouthpiece ring Z are centered in each port. 9. Slide the TiForce end can into place. 10. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and stay / hanger G to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. (See figure 1) . 11. Place the bands approximately 118 mm from the edge of the end can. (See figure 2) . 12. Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger foot peg, and using the stock-mounting bolt, mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. Insert the stock mounting bolt through the stay / hanger G. 13. Attach the supplied springs to all the joints, starting from the head pipes and working back to the end can. 14. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear, if necessary jiggle the system to adjust for proper clearance

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Kawasaki ZRX-1100 / 1200 exhaust system Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the existing exhaust system and save the flange nuts for reuse. Save the stock exhaust can mounting bolt and nut for reuse as well. 2. Inspect the exhaust gaskets. Replace if necessary. 3. Attach the head pipes 1, 2, 3 , and 4 to the exhaust ports of their respective cylinders, using the flange nuts saved from step 1 above. Loosely apply the flange nuts for now, allowing for ome adjustment. 4. Attach the Y-pipe collectors to the head pipes. Please note that one collector goes to pipes #1 and #4 and one collector goes to pipes #2 and #3 (collectors are labeled). Make sure the ends of the head pipes fit flush and snug in the ports. Do not install the springs at this time. 5. Install the S-Bend to the rear of the two Y-pipe collectors. Do not install the springs at this time. 6. Go back and retighten the head pipe flange nuts per factory specifications – make sure the head pipes are centered in each port. 7. Slide the TiForce end can into place on the S-bend pipe. 8. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and the stay / hanger G, to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. (See figure 1) . Make sure that the rubber bands fully cover the stainless bands to prevent scratches to the can. 9. Place the bands approximately 108mm from the edge of the end can. (See figure 2) . 10. Go back and tighten the exhaust flange nuts per factory specification. Do not over tighten. 11. Using the stock provided mounting point on the right passenger footpeg, and using the stock mounting bolt, mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. Insert the stock mounting bolt through the stay / hanger G. 12. Attach the supplied springs to all the joints, starting from the head pipes and working back to the end can. 13. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear, if necessary jiggle the system to adjust for proper clearance. 14. Carefully align the two stainless bands K so that they are parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can (refer to step 11 / figure 2), then tighten the 6mm hardware H and the stock mounting bolt hardware. Make sure that the rubber pads fully cover the band(s). USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN. 15. Using some brake and contact cleaner on a clean rag, carefully wipe down the entire exhaust system to remove any residual oils, anti seize, fingerprints and dirt prior to starting the motor. FAILURE TO CLEAN THE TUBING AND CAN MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT STAINING OF THE SYSTEM WHEN HEATED. 16. Check that all hardware is properly tightened, and then start the motor and check for exhaust leaks

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2000 Honda Rancher ATV Winch Mounting Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 13-01-2012

Begin by removing the front fascia and front skid plate on the vehicle as shown in figure 1. Save the fasteners as they will be used later to re-install the front fascia and skid plate. 2. Remove the 8mm bolts on both sides located inside the front tires and on the ends of two horizontal tubes on the front tube frame as shown in figure 2. 3. Place the mounting plate (A1) inside the front tube frame. The tabs with the slotted holes facing down. The slotted tabs should align where the
two 8mm bolts were removed in step 2. Reinstall these two bolts at this time thighten to just fingertight. Install the two 1/4-20 u-bolts (B3) and locking hex nuts (B1) and flat washers (B7) at thism time see figure 3, do not tighten down at this time. so the plate can be adjusted for position see figure 2. 4. Place the rear support bracket (A4) into position
and attach with the two 5/16-18 x 3/4 hex cap screws (B6), flat washer (B5) and locking nut (B4). Adjust the position of the support bracket so that it comes in contact with the frame tubes and tighten the fasteners see figures 3 and 4.
Make sure the support bracket maintains contact with the rear frame tubes and tighten down the two front 8mm mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to a recommended torque of 12 ft-lb (17 N-m). 5. Attach the fairlead bracket support (A2) to the front frame tubes see figure 5. The support bracket attaches behind the front tubes. Space the bracket away from the tubes using the spacer brackets (A3). Attach the brackets using the 1/4- 20 u-bolts (B2), lock nuts (B1) and flat washers (B7). Before tightening the u-bolts make sure the bracket is in the correct position by fitting the front
fasica into postion and checking location. Tighten the nuts to a recommended torque of 7 ft-lb (10 N-m). NOTE: If this kit is being installed on a 00 to 03 Honda the wider fairlead bracket (A2) will need to be used. This will require the use of the
wider u-bolts (B3). The spacer brkts (A3) will not be required when installing the wider fairlead brkt

HONDA GL1200 fork seals Removal And Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-02-2011

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subsequent seal failure it can cause, is to cover or “shield” the tubes in some manner that goes beyond the normal protection offered by dust seals. My old CB200T has the traditional, accordion-rubber “gaiters” over the shock tubes, and the seals have failed only once in 12 years, at 80,000 miles. That’s why you still see gaiters on virtually every off-road bike made. But somewhere along the line “fashion” and “design” overcame common sense, and we all started insisting on street bikes with modern-looking, totally exposed, polished fork tubes. Gaiters were dropped almost entirely, determined to be much too old-fashioned-looking, or as contributing in some miniscule manner to fork “stiction.” Maybe so—but they worked. Some riders, wise to the ways of seal failure, have developed “home remedies” to protect their forks. Among the ones I’ve seen are sections of rubber hose attached to fork housings with hose clamps, or the more attractive addition of vinyl “wrap-arounds” that velcro around the tubes and slide up and down with the forks. Some of these are even color-matched to the bikes. I used to own a Honda GL1200 that needed the fork seals replaced at 21,000 miles, 43,000 miles, and 62,000 miles. Then I covered the exposed upper tubes with vinyl “sliders,” and never had to replace the seals again. The bike’s current owner now has the odometer up to 124,000 miles, and the seals are still holding. Honda must have gotten wise to this, because the GL1500 models came with plastic “fork shields” built right onto the front fender. Even though they don’t quite cover the entire exposed area of the tubes

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2007 – 2009 KAWASAKI Z 1000 RACING AND EVOLUTION EXHAUST SYSTEM

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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The Akrapovic RACING OPEN & EVOLUTION OPEN line is the highest level of Akrapovic exhaust systems and with hexagonal shaped muffler fits perfectly with the aggressive character of the ‘Z’. The conical tubing with interference crossover tubes between the header tubes work exceptionally well. With the Akrapovic exhaust system you will get massive power boost, more torque, a sportier sound and an even more aggressive top- level look on this muscular roadster. You can choose between classy titanium or carbon- fiber mufflers that stand out through their excellent quality. The systems are available in open version only. Besides great power and torque, you will also save in overall weight, as the Akrapovic system weighs 10.21 kg (RACING) or 11.5 kg (EVOLUTION) less than the stock assembly. PERFORMANCE Measurements of the Akrapovic RACING OPEN & EVOLUTION OPEN system on the Ka- wasaki Z 1000: The power curve shows a huge increase over the stock performance figures. It is much more linear, which means the engine is pulling strong and consistently right from the lowest rpm to the highest part of the overrev range. We measured a maximum increased power of 10.0 HP at 10270 rpm. The same goes for torque, which is also increased through entire rpm range. The drop-outs in the stock curve are filled and like the power curve, there is a major increase from 4000 rpm on. CONFIGURATION The configuration of the Akrapovic RACING OPEN & EVOLUTION OPEN system for the Z 1000 is 4-2-1, made of conical stainless steel or titanium tubes. The system includes interference crossover tubes between the header tubes, giving the Kawasaki increased performance characteristics. The muffler is available with either a titanium or carbon-fiber outer sleeve, attached to the motorcycle with an Akrapovic carbon-fiber muffler clamp. The individual elements of the system – header tubes, collector, link pipe and muffler – are connected with sleeve joints, secured with silicon-shielded springs.

KAWASAKI ZX 6R, ZX 6RR AKRAPOVIC RACING AND EVOLUTION EXHAUST SYSTEM Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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REMOVAL OF STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. put the motorcycle on a side stand, we recommend a racing stand 2. remove the lower cowling (complete) – unscrew all bolts and remove the plastic bushings (Figure 1, 2, 3, 4) 3. unscrew the bolt for the metal clamp on the link pipe (at the link pipe – collector joint) (Figure 5) 4. unscrew and remove the bolt for the muffler clamp (Figure 6) 5. remove the link pipe together with the muffler (link pipe and muffler are welded together). We recommend spraying the joint with a multi-purpose spray lubricant (WD-40 or equivalent) 6. if you are mounting the optional carbon-fiber muffler bracket, remove the stock muffler bracket 7. unscrew and remove the bolts on the lower radiator brackets and move the radiator out of the way – do not damage the radiator cooling fins (Figure 7, 8) 8. remove the bolts on the flanges (Figure 9) 9. remove the header tubes together with the flanges (Figure 10) INSTALLATION OF THE AKRAPOVIC RACING OR EVOLUTION SYSTEM installing the header tubes: 1. check the position of the radiator – be careful not to damage the fins 2. use the stock gaskets installed in the exhaust port, or place them on the Akrapovic sleeves 3. install the sleeves together with the flanges and tensioning springs – make sure they are correctly oriented and correctly installed, and that the holes for the springs line up with the holes on the tabs on the header tubes (Figure 11 & 12) 4. tighten the flanges 5. mount the header tubes, which come together with the collector (Figure 13) 6. attach the springs (Figure 14) 7. make sure the header tubes are not touching the engine, the radiator, tubes, electrical installations etc. installing the independent link pipe: 1. if installing the EVOLUTION model use ceramic anti-seizing grease 2. slide the link pipe (inlet side) onto the collector (Figure 15) 3. check the orientation of the link pipe – the holes for the springs must line up 4. attach the springs 5. make sure the link pipe is not touching the frame and other parts installing the muffler: 1. install the carbon-fiber muffler bracket, if applicable 2. position the muffler correctly and slide it onto the outlet side of the link pipe; if installing a titanium link pipe use ceramic anti-seizing grease

2007 – 2009 APRILIA RSV MILLE EVOLUTION OPEN EXHAUST SYSTEM

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 06-11-2010

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Measurements of the Akrapovic EVOLUTION street legal system on the APRILIA RSV MILLE (with muffler insert): Power & Torque: the Akrapovic exhaust system increase the responsiveness of the Aprilia and fill out the power and torque curves. The increase in power and torque starts already at around 3000 rpm and leads all the way to the top of the rpm range. At 10300 rpm we measured a massive 129.1 HP on rear wheel and max. increase of power 9.4 HP at 10550 rpm. CONFIGURATION The Racing and Evolution systems differ only in the selection of tubing materials. The Racing is made of stainless steel, and the Evolution is made of titanium. Both systems have conical tubes, collectors, and a link pipe. All of the system components are attached with sleeve joints secured with silicon-shielded springs. The header tubes come with interference crossover tubes, and the systems also include a fitting for attaching a lambda sensor. The HEXAGONAL muffler is definitely the most eye- catching element of the system. It is made of a titanium inlet cap and perforated inner sleeve, while the outlet cap is made of carbon fiber. The outer sleeve is available in titanium or carbon fiber. The muffler is attached to the frame using an Akrapovic carbon fiber clamp. PERFORMANCE stock AKRAPOVIC max. increased power max. rear wheel power HP / rpm (measured on Dynojet ATV) 122.1 / 9740 129.1 / 10300 9.4 / 10550 interference crossover tubes YES (in collector) lambda sensor YES header tube inner sleeves – header tube flanges S.S LASER CUT header tubes – collector connection SLEEVE JOINT + SILICON SHIELDED SPRINGS collector / header tube – link pipe connection SLEEVE JOINT + SILICON SHIELDED SPRINGS link pipe – muffler connection SLEEVE JOINT + SILICON SHIELDED SPRINGS muffler inlet cap /outlet cap Ti / Carb.-fiber muffler metal interior TITANIUM muffler outer sleeve Ti / Carb.-fiber muffler clamp CARBON-FIBER muffler bracket Carb.-fiber (OPTIONAL) muffler insert EU YES heat shield YES (stock) US – catalytic converter YES (2x) CONFIGURA- TION CONFIGURATION header tubes collector link pipe material S.S. (begining) S.S. / TI (header tube) S.S. / TI STAINLESS STEEL / TITANIUM tube shape CONICAL CONICAL CONICAL Technical specifications of Akrapovic exhaust systems and related products subject to change without notice. ADDITIONAL DATA weight comparison (kg) stock AKRAPOVIC difference 12.57 S.S. link pipe TITANIUM link pipe stock – S.S. stock – titanium – 5.52

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HONDA VF750 MAGNA SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2010

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REMOVING THE STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Remove the left and right side frame covers to prevent damaging them. 2. Loosen the pinch clamps on the inlet end of all four mufflers, located behind the rear motor mount. 3. Remove the left and right front head pipes. 4. Remove the rear mounting bolt from both muffler assemblies. Carefully slide each muffler assembly off the head pipes and set them aside. 5. Replace the front head pipes. Note : Leave the head pipes loose for later adjustment. INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Unscrew all of the hose clamps (supplied) until they are completely loose. Feed the tail end of the hose clamp into the clips on the inside of both heat shields. Note : The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible, but not visible when pipe is mounted on the bike. 2. Place the slip-on head tube into the matching heat shield, wrap the hose clamp around the head tube and give the screw three to four turns, leaving heat shield loose on the head tube. Repeat this step with opposite head tube and heat shield. 3. Slide a T-bolt band clamp (supplied) onto the slotted end of each slip-on tube. 4. Slip the slotted end of tube onto the rear head pipes. The shorter of the two slip-on tubes mounts on the right rear head pipe and the longer tube on the left rear head pipe. Tighten the T- bolt clamp until the pipe is snug but so the pipe will still be able to rotate. 5. Install the muffler mounting brackets to the frame using the single hole in the brackets and the stock hardware. The left side mounting bracket (stamped #206 on the bracket) mounts to the outside of the frame, where the stock muffler assembly mounted. The right side bracket (stamped #207) mounts to the inside of the frame, behind the stock muffler mounting point. 6. Slide a chrome muffler clamp (supplied) onto the inlet end of each muffler. Install a 5/16″ x 1 1/4″ bolt with a flat washer on either side of the clamp followed by a lock nut (all supplied). Do this to each muffler but leave the clamp loose at this time. 7. To determine the difference between the left, right, upper and lower mufflers refer to the number stamped on the bracket welded to the backside of each muffler. The top right hand muffler is D500, the bottom right hand muffler is D510, the top left hand muffler is D550 and the bottom left hand muffler is D512. Note : The endcap bolts should face down and inward when viewing from the rear (Refer to Figure 1) .

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Harley-Davidson V-Rod Destroyer Indy Series Exhaust REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL (DESTROYER) 1. Remove both collector bolts. 2. Remove nuts from both front and rear exhaust cylinder head flanges using a 13mm socket. 3. If the Racepak is installed, remove both O2 and EGT sensors from the front and rear head pipes. 4. Carefully remove complete exhaust from the motorcycle. STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL (V-ROD) 5. Loosen clamp bolt at front of the collector using a 13mm socket. 6. Remove muffler bracket bolt using a 13mm wrench. 7. Carefully remove muffler and collector assembly from motorcycle. 8. Remove nuts from both front and rear exhaust cylinder head flanges using a 13mm socket. 9. Carefully remove head pipes from motorcycle. 10. Remove the stock exhaust flanges and circlips from both the front and rear head pipes. If the circlips are bent or twisted they should be replaced, Harley-Davidson part number #65045-01 We also recommend replacing the stock exhaust gaskets, Harley-Davidson part number #65109-01 INDY SERIES EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION 1. Identify front head pipe #7-8002. Install the stock flange and circlip. Install the exhaust gasket and front header pipe, leaving the flange nuts hand tight. 2. Repeat the above step for the rear head pipe #7-8006. 3. Slip the megaphone/collector assembly onto the head pipes, secure with the four springs supplied using the spring puller tool. 4. Rotate the exhaust so there is adequate clearance in all places. 5. Tighten the cylinder head flange nuts for both the front and rear head pipes. 6. Tighten both the EGT and O2 plugs on the front and rear head pipes. 7. Clean all fingerprints from the exhaust using a contact cleaner (or other non flammable cleaner). Fingerprints will leave stains on the pipe once the motorcycle is started. 8. You are now ready to start the motorcycle.

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2008 Harley Davidson Softail Deluxe Exhaust Installation Supplement to Installation Manua

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-02-2011

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1. Install LH and RH passenger foot peg mount using 3/8×2-1/4″ hex head bolts, 3/8″ SAE flat washers, 3/8″ lock was and 1″ spacers between the motorcycl frame and mount. Figure 1 hers e xhaust ter) n’t Cut 6-1/4″ from end Cut 1/2″ from end Figure 2 2. Remove exhaust chrome covers from header pipes. 3. It is not necessary to remove the front cylinder’s front cover. Remove header pipes from cylinder heads. Cut pipes as shown in Figure 2. 4. Replace header pipes Cut cover 5-5/8″ from end – Shown already cut Figure 3 5. Cut top cover as shown in Figure 3. 6. Install supplied extension pipes as shown in Figure 3 using the OE e clamps. (Clamps covered by covers in picture – covers will be installed la Rotate clamps to make sure they don’t interfere with the foot peg mounts. Do tighten clamps yet. 7. Mount exhaust hanger bracket to body frame with (3) supplied vibration mounts. Figure 4. Figure 4 8. Install supplied clamps to ends of mufflers and fit over exhaust extensions. 9. Attach exhaust pipes to hanger bracket with OEM hardware (4 bolts). Apply Red Loctite to OEM bolts. Figure 4. 10. Install all chrome covers 11. Tighten all exhaust clamps. Figure 5 12. Install supplied chrome cover with clamp removed from cut OE chrome cover. Supplied cover slips over OE chrome cover. Push cover forward to prevent the body from hitting the cover. Figure 5. 13. Move OE clamp backwards and install 14. Position luggage rack as shown in figure 5. Install luggage rack with OE bolt in the Figure 6 Bracket OE Bolt Clamp Figure 7 Drill ¼” holes bracket using OE bolt and supplied 3/8″ bolt. Figure 6. 7 and drill two ¼” holes in shock tower mount. 1 rear and the supplied ¼” bolts in the front.

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