Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011
position when it comes to the environment. We continue to develop low-emission technologies for our current and future motorcycles, ATVs, scooters and personal watercraft. We already produce models that exceed the stringent 2008 CARB emissions requirements years ahead of schedule. And that’s the kind of performance everybody can appreciate. BE A RESPONSIBLE RIDER. Riding a motorcycle is an exercise in responsibility—to yourself, to others, to the environment and to the sport. So remember, wear a helmet, eye protection and protective clothing whenever you ride. Never ride under the influence of drugs or alcohol, and never use the street as a racetrack. Inspect your motorcycle before riding, read your owner’s manual, and see your local Honda Dealer concerning reimbursement through the Honda Rider’s Club of America™for Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) rider training.* Always obey local laws, use common sense, and respect the rights of others when you ride. Make sure you have a proper license when riding on public roads, and never modify your motorcycle’s exhaust system. 03 SPECIFICATIONS ACCESSORIES VALKYRIE Log on to our website at honda.com for more information about Honda Genuine Accessories . On a bike like the Valkyrie, you can never have too much chrome. And that’s precisely why we offer our Chrome Sidecovers and Chrome Swingarm-Pivot cover to help really brighten up these areas. Here’s one of our most popular Valkyrie accessory options. These Leather Saddlebags look great, hold plenty, and match some of the other leather accessories we have available. Got a long trip planned, or is winter right around the corner? Then make sure you take a look at-or should we say take a look through-a Honda Genuine Accessories Windshield for your new Valkyrie. GL1500CD 1520cc liquid-cooled horizontally opposed six-cylinder with belt-driven overhead camshafts Six 28mm constant-velocity carburetors 71.0 x 64.0mm Solid-state digital Five-speed constant-mesh Shaft 150/80R-17 radial 180/70R-16 radial Dual-disc with twin-piston calipers 28.9 inches 66.5 inches 5.3 gallons, including 1.1 gallon reserve 681 pounds Black Windshield, leather saddlebags, chrome exhaust tips, chrome rear carrier, CB transceiver kit, passenger CB talk switch, studded backrest pad, studded main seat, studded rear seat, deluxe backrest pad
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011
CARBURETOR REMOVAL Edelbrock recommends consulting an authorized service manual for make, model and year of motorcycle before disassembly of stock parts. 1. Turn fuel valve off before getting started. 2. Disconnect battery to eliminate the possibility of sparks or accidentally engaging the starter. 3. Remove air cleaner assembly. 4. Disconnect choke cable from its bracket. 5. Disconnect fuel line and vacuum lines from carburetor. 6. Gently remove carburetor from manifold. NOTE: For removal of CV style carbs, Edelbrock recommends the carb be gently wiggled from side to side (not up and down) while pulling to get carb out of manifold. MANIFOLD REQUIREMENTS Edelbrock Quick Kits and Complete kits are designed to work with the stock manifold that was OE on your engine. Some aftermarket manifolds will also work with Edelbrock carburetors. S&S “E” Series and Screamin’ Eagle flange mount manifolds will work with Edelbrock flange style carburetors. It is also recommended the manifold being used closely matches the venturi of the carburetor. BIKE PREPARATION 1. Once stock carburetor and air cleaner have been removed, inspect manifold grommet (CV manifolds only) for tears, nicks or cuts. Replace grommet, if damaged. Stuff a clean dry rag into manifold until carb is installed to keep any debris out of engine. 2. Remove old fuel line and vacuum line (if equipped) and install supplied fuel line and vacuum line
Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010
Jets: These are made in various sizes ranging from.099 inches to.1875 inches, the larger sizes being used only for racing or very high performance engines. The two sizes most commonly found on production cars are the.090 inch and the.100 inch. The size of the jet will be found stamped on the jet head. The figure “nine”wilt indicate that it is the.090 inch and the figure “one”will indicate the.100 inch jet. When tuninga production car the jets size should be checked to make sure that it is of the size recommended by the manufacturers. Centering of Jet: If for any reason, the jet assembly has been removed, it will be ne cessary to recenter the jet. First, remove the clevis pin at the base of the jet which attaches the jet head to the jet operating lever. Withdraw the jet completely and remove the adjusting nut and spring, then replace the adjusting nut, without its spring, and screw it up toits highest position. Slide the Set into position until the jet head is against the base of the adjusting nut. When this has been done, find out if the piston is perfectly free by lifting it up with the finger and allowing it to drop. If the piston is not entirely free, slacken the jet screw and manipulate the lower part of the assembly, including the projecting part of the bottom half of the jet bearing, adjusting nut, and jet head. Make sure that this assembly is now slightly loose. The piston should then rise and fall quite freely as the needle is now able to move the jet into the required central position. The jet screw should now be tightened and a further check made to determine that the piston is still quite free. When complete freedom of the piston is achieved the jet adjusting nut should be removed, together with the jet, and the spring replaced. Experience has shown that a large percentage of carburetors, which have given trouble has been due to the incorrect centering of jets. Jet Needles— These are made in a great variety of sizes, probably now well over two hundred and fifty, and each type of engine hasaneedlethat has been selected, after very careful tests have been carried out, to give the best all-round performance. Most manufacturers actually give three alternative needles for each type and size of engine, these needles clearly being listed by the manufacturer “Standard”, “Rich”or”Weak”and before tuning is started the needle, which is marked on the shank should be checked against the manufacturer’srecommendation to make quite sure that the right needle is fitted; this is most important.
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011
Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.
Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 31-10-2010
your Mikuni HSR is fitted with the tuning parts we found to work with the great majority of engine performance modifications. However, the large number of differing exhaust systems and cams available makes it impossible to accommodate all possible combinations with one carburetor set-up. Your HSR will almost certainly run correctly on your engine without exchanging any parts. But, if it doesn’t, you may alter its tuning to suit your engine’s needs by following this guide. Some exhaust system designs strongly interfere with carburetor tuning. For instance, it is very difficult to get smooth and responsive carburetion through the entire rpm range with straight pipes and completely open exhausts. In addition, very small volume, small diameter mufflers are often ‘seen’ by the engine as straight pipes and present the same tuning difficulties. Very long duration cams often cause relatively poor running below about 3,000 rpm, depending upon the individual cam’s intake valve closing point. Such cams cause reverse airflow out the mouth of the carburetor (often called “reversion” or “standoff”) that can be mistaken for a carburetor tuning problem. Harley-Davidson Screamin’ Eagle performance parts are proven and predictable. If you have any doubts about a particular exhaust system, air cleaner or ignition, you may substitute the Harley Screamin’ Eagle parts as a “reality check.” When re-tuning is required, it usually involves small alterations to the idle and/or main system. The following pages supply enough information to make such alterations relatively simple. Please note that there is no point in attempting to tune any carburetor unless the engine is sound and in a good state of tune. If you have any doubts about the general condition of your engine, have it checked by your dealer or an experienced mechanic before attempting to fine-tune your Mikuni.