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Harley Davidson Five Speed Transmissions Hydraulic Clutch Modification

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Hydraulic Clutch Modification for Harley Davidson With Champion Reverse Gear 1 1.1 Install Reverse Gear Assembly to gearbox. 1.2 Remove clutch cover (left side). 1.3 Remove Release Plate (clutch adjustment) and Push Rods. 1.4 Install Hydraulic Clutch Release Cover with supplied spacer and two gaskets. 1.5 Bleed clutch system. NOTE: When bleeding clutch system, lever feel will become hard, do not force lever because piston is at end of travel.(Continue Bleeding) 2 2.1 Install Push Rod. 2.2 Push the rod into clutch assembly to force hydraulic piston to its start position. Push the rod hard until the clutch cylinder is fully compressed. This is the start position. 2.3 Install Hydraulic Clutch Throw-Out Bearing Holder and bearing to push rod. Do not install circlip at this time. 2.4 If the throw-out bearing holder does not fully seat into the Pressure Plate (Figure 2.4), proceed to step 2.5. If shaft is too short then use throw-out bearing holder from Champion Reverse Gear Kit, skip next step and proceed to 3.0 2.5 Measure distance between bearing holder and pressure plate (ensure that push rod is pushed in) Figure 2.4 2.6 Remove bearing holder and push rod, reinstall bearing holder until seated (without push rod). Measure distance from pressure plate to bearing holder. Figure 2.6 2.7 Add measurements taken in steps 2.5 and 2.6 2.8 Add 0.090″ to total of step 2.7 (allowance for clutch plate wear). Measurement should be approximately 1/8″. 2.9 Measure push rod length. 2.10 Subtract measurement of step 2.8 from measurement of step 2.9 (push rod length). This measurement represents the amount of material to be removed from ball end of push rod. (Step 2.11)

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HARLEY DAVIDSON STAINLESS STEEL BRAIDED CLUTCH CABLE KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-03-2011

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REMOVE CLUTCH CABLE 1. See Figure 1. Loosen clutch adjuster to obtain slack in the clutch cable (2) by performing the following: a. Locate cable adjuster (1) and slide off rubber boot (4). b. While holding cable adjuster with 1/2-inch wrench, loosen jam nut (3) using a 9/16-inch wrench. c. Turn cable adjuster until there is a large amount of free play at hand lever. 1 2 3 4 is 00889 1. Cable adjuster (1/2-inch) 2. Cable end 3. Jam nut (9/16-inch) 4. Rubber boot Figure 1. Clutch Cable Adjuster 2. See Figure 2. Remove the retaining ring (1), pivot pin (2) and clutch cable anchor pin (3) from the hand lever. 2 3 1 is 00891 1. Retaining ring 2. Pivot pin 3. Clutch cable anchor pin Figure 2. Clutch Cable Compoments 3. See Figure 3. Drain transmission lubricant and remove fill plug dipstick. Remove the six screws that hold the clutch release cover in place. Remove the clutch release cover, being careful not to damage the gasket. NOTE The clutch release cover gasket (P/N 36801-87B) will need to be replaced if torn or damaged to prevent transmission fluid from leaking from the release cover. 4 3 5 2 6 1 is 00894 Figure 3. Clutch Release Cover Screw Sequence 4. See Figure 4. Note position of retaining ring opening. Retaining ring opening must be positioned in approximately the same location during reassembly. Remove retaining ring (1). 5 4 1 3 2 is 00895 1. Retaining ring 2. Inner ramp 3. Cable fitting 4. Clutch cable 5. Ramp coupling Figure 4. Clutch Cable Connection 5. Pull inner ramp (2) and coupling (5) out of side cover. Hold inner and outer ramps together to keep balls from falling free. 6. Rotate the inner ramp to a position that will allow the coupling (5) to be disconnected from the inner ramp lever arm. Disconnect coupling from inner ramp. Disconnect cable end from coupling. 7. Back out threaded cable fitting from side cover. Ensure that o-ring is removed with cable. Discard o-ring. INSTALL CLUTCH CABLE 1. See Figure 4. Obtain braided stainless steel clutch cable from kit. Apply a light coat of oil on new o-ring and install o-ring (Part Number 11179) onto threaded portion of clutch cable (4). Insert clutch cable fitting (3) into clutch release cover. Do not tighten cable fitting at this time. 2. Connect cable end to coupling. Rotate ramps for best access and install coupling on inner ramp. Place ramp assembly in position in side cover. 3. Install retaining ring. Position retaining ring opening so it is located approximately over the outer ramp tang (the stop that prevents rotation). NOTE Replace clutch release cover gasket if torn or damaged. 4. See Figure 3. Place gasket, if removed, on side cover and install side cover. Tighten the six screws in the order shown to 84-108 in-lbs (10-12 Nm) . 5. Tighten the clutch cable fitting to 36-60 in-lbs (4-7 Nm) . 6. Place a few drops of oil inside cable housing. 7. Route clutch cable as follows: SOFTAIL MODELS FXSTD, FLSTS, FXSTS and FXST – Route clutch cable from the clutch release cover, across the frame, up along the front frame downtubes and across the front of the handlebars. Cable straps (item 1 in service parts illustration) to be used in same location as original equipment straps. FLSTF and FLSTC – Route clutch cable from the clutch release cover, across the frame and up along the front frame down- tubes, up to and behind the handlebars. Cable straps (item 1 in service parts illustration) to be used in same location as original equipment straps. DYNA MODELS FXDWG – Route clutch cable from the clutch release cover, under frame and across to the left side. See Figure 5. Insert cable (1) into clip (2) at the bottom left side of the frame

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DIAMONDBACK "LE" CHROME SERIES CLUTCH CABLE KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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CLUTCH CABLE REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Disconnect the battery or main fuse following the instructions in the appropriate Service manual. 2. When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing and existing cable strap locations. New straps can be installed in the same locations. 3. Remove the clutch cable following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 4. If installing different handlebars, install them now (refer to the appropriate handlebar instruction sheet) and measure the change in distance that will be required from the end of the cable housing to the clutch lever. Install proper length clutch cables. Incorrect cable length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00448b) 5. Compare the additional required length to the cable provided in your kit. If the cable is more than two inches (50.8 mm) longer or more than one inch (25.4 mm) shorter than the above measured distance, see a Harley-Davidson dealer for the correct cable length. CLUTCH CABLE INSTALLATION Sportster and Softail Models Do not over-tighten clutch cable threaded end fitting. Use recommended torque values. Damage to threaded fitting can lead to loss of transmission fluid, which could result in loss of control and death or serious injury. (00449c) -J04568
NOTE Damage to the clutch cable threaded end fitting due to improper handling/installation is not covered under the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Warranty. 1. See Figure 11. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil on the new O-ring (2) before installing the O-ring onto the threaded portion of the clutch cable end. 2. Install the clutch cable following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual EXCEPT: Tighten clutch cable fitting to clutch release cover to 36-60 in-lbs (4-7 Nm) . Replace anchor pin with anchor pin supplied in this kit, see Figure 11, item (1 or 7). 3. After installation, follow the instructions in the “Final Assembly” and “Clutch Cable Adjustment” sections in this instruction sheet. FLTR Models with Fairing Lowers 1. See Figure 1. Carefully twist the clutch cable around the coiled opening in the clutch cable guide (2) with the eyelet toward the left handlebar. 2. Route the clutch cable assembly down from the clutch cable clamp while crossing to the right side of the vehicle. Run the cable between the inboard side of the right frame downtube and the outboard side of the voltage regulator. 3. The clutch cable clamp, mounted on the engine guard, has two fingers, an upper and a lower. Feed the cable assembly under one finger and over the other. 4. Finish the installation of the clutch cable following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual EXCEPT: Tighten clutch cable fitting to clutch release cover to 36-60 in-lbs (4-7 Nm) . Replace anchor pin with anchor pin supplied in this kit, see Figure 11, item (1 or 7). NOTE See Figure 2. Adjust the clutch cable clamp to 2.25 ± 0.25 in. (57.15 ± 6.35 mm) as measured from the inside lower left fairing mount to the clutch cable clamp. 5. After installation, follow the instructions in the “Final Assembly” and “Clutch Cable Adjustment” sections in this instruction sheet.

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2008 Honda CBR1000RR Clutch Inner Installation PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-04-2011

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Refer to the 2008 CBR1000RR Service Manual for specific removal instructions. While completing this procedure, be careful not to damage the covers, cowls, or any other components. 1. Remove the air intake cover (page 3-8). 2. Remove the upper inner cover (page 3-9). 3. Remove the lower cowl (page 3-9). 4. Remove the right middle cowl (page 3-10). 5. Remove the right crankcase cover (page 10-5). Clutch Removal (page 10-7) 6. Remove the starter idle gear and shaft. 7. Remove the snap ring and stopper ring. 8. Remove the clutch lifter piece and plate. 9. Unstake the clutch center lock nut. Be careful not to damage the mainshaft threads. 10. Hold the pressure plate with the special tool. You must use the special tool (Clutch Holder, T/N 070MB-MFLA100) when removing the lock nut. Using an impact wrench will damage the main shaft threads. Clutch Holder: 070MB-MFLA100 (autoshipped in May 2008) 11. Remove the clutch center lock nut and washer and discard the lock nut as shown on top of page 3 12. Remove the clutch spring holder, spring seat, and two clutch springs. 13. Remove the spring seat. 14. Remove the following: • Pressure plate
• Spring seat • Judder spring • Clutch disc A • Clutch plate A • Seven clutch discs B • Clutch disc C  Clutch center NOTE: Do not remove the clutch outer. New Clutch Installation (page 10-20) NOTE: The new clutch disc assembly has a dif- ferent order of plates than the illustration shown in the Service Manual. Keep note of this when repairing updated units.
15. Install the new clutch disc assembly with- out removing the setting bolts. Rotate the main shaft to align the clutch disc assem- bly with the main shaft spline. 16. Slightly loosen the setting bolts. 17. Rotate clutch disc C to align its tabs into clutch outer shallow slots, then fully install the clutch disc assembly. 18. Remove and discard the setting bolts. 19. Install the spring seat

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Harley Davidson 6- SPEED CONVERSION KIT FOR BIG TWIN 5- SPEED TRANSMISSIONS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-03-2012

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5/16 Bolt hole boss clearance This can easily be checked with the trap door gasket. Put the gasket on the dowel pins. AII material of the boss around the hole that “sticks outside” the gasket (60 degrees forward to 60 degree backwards) must be removed (see figure A). Primary fork clearance Place the gasket on the housing and remove material as indicated for clearing the shifter fork (see figure B). WWW . ZODIAC . NL PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS FOR HARLEY-DAVIDSON ® INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR 6 SPEED CONVERSION KIT AND 6 SPEED BUILDER KIT speed transmission. Also make sure you have a 1990 or later Factory Service Manual available. Tools The conversion kit should only be used in new or low milage transmissions. If gears or bearings of a used Gear set Removal Refer to the Factory Service Manual Section for Mainshaft and Countershaft removal. When you get to the point of actually sliding the gear set out make sure you properly mark the 5th gear set as described in the Factory Service Manual (for used transmissions only). Further follow the factory removal procedure. Clearance Checks The 6 Speed conversion and builder kit will fit in most OEM or aftermarket transmission housings without may be needed. The following clearances must be checked before assembling the 6 speed transmission. 28-05-2008 We recommend the kits are installed by a qualified mechanic with knowledge of the Harley-Davidson 5 needed are the same as used for a 5 Speed transmission. 5 speed transmission are worn, new ones must be installed, or better, the builder kit should be used. any modification of the housing. However due to casting differences, in some instances some modification
WWW . ZODIAC . NL PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS FOR HARLEY-DAVIDSON ® Pillow block clearance (right side) Make sure there is clearance between the pillow block and the housing. Any clearance is O.K. (see figure C). Fork shaft support clearance Again use the gasket as the template and remove the material as indicated (see figure D). Shift drum end play The end play of the shift drum must be checked prior to final installation. Install the shift drum. Measure the end play with feeler gauges at the right pillow block (see figure E). End play should be between .004″ and .010″, some 1/2″ X 7/8″ 0.008″ thick shims are included to adjust the end play

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KAWASAKI CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the key from the ignition switch. Loosen the vent hose on the cover. Remove the clutch cover bolts (10mm socket) and take the clutch cover off. You will need to unplug the wires from the electric actuator and small sensor in the center of the clutch cover to totally remove the cover. To unplug the wires from the sensors, follow the wires to the connections under the plastic side panel and unplug at that location. 2. Remove the primary clutch bolt (19mm socket). This is a left threaded bolt. Insert clutch puller by hand (right hand threads) and tighten until clutch pops off the shaft. This tool is available from EPI, part number PCP-10. Loosen the secondary clutch nut (27mm socket) and remove both clutches at the same time. When you slide the secondary clutch of the machine there are four metal roller pins inside the center shaft of the secondary clutch. These will normally stay in place but if one does fall out refer to assembly instructions in step #6. 3. Disassemble the primary clutch by removing the eight bolts on the cover plate (10mm socket) and remove the spring. Remove one nut (10mm) on the bolt that holds the weight in place, slide the pin out of the clutch and remove the weight. Install EPI weight making sure the tip of the weight is resting on the inside ledge of the clutch. Slide bolt through the holes in the clutch and the weight and install the nut. Repeat this step for the other three weights. NOTE: If your kit has two different gram weights, for example two 54 and two 56 weights, be sure to place them directly across from each other (or every other one). This keeps the clutch in balance . 4. Install the EPI spring and bolt the clutch cover back on using a criss-cross pattern to tighten down the cover. There is a mark on the cover plate and the spider usually in the form of a dot or arrow in the casting. These are alignment marks and must line up when the clutch is assembled. 5. EPI recommends cleaning your clutches when you have them off your machine. Use a clean rag or towel with contact or brake cleaner that does not leave any oily film. Clean all parts of the clutch except for the clutch bushings. Solvent can damage your bushings; just use a dry rag to clean them

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON 5 Speed Transmissions 1984 – 1999 EVO / 5 Speed & 1999 – 2006 Twin Cam Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Remove Original Parts From Vehicle. 2.1 Obtain a small tube of Loctite® #262 (red) for use later. 2.2 Drain the transmission oil. 2.3 Remove the clutch adjustment cover (left side). 2.4 Remove rear exhaust header pipe (cross over exhaust pipe). 2.5 Remove the muffler support bracket. 2.6 Remove the clutch release cover (right side). 2.7 Remove clutch push rod and oil slinger. To be disassembled and modified later. 2.8 Remove the two nuts from the main (rear) and counter (front) transmission shafts. 2.9 Remove the transmission bearing housing (puller available from Champion Sidecars). To be replaced with new reverse gear transmission bearing housing (Trap Door). 2.10 Cover the exposed gears in the transmission with a cloth in preparation to cut the shifter fork shaft. 3 Install New Main and Countershaft Gears NOTE: Gears and Tapered Split Rings are factory matched sets. Do not mix!. 3.1 Locate the shifter fork rod, mark fork rod flush at transmission case and pull out 1/4″. Figure 1 3.2 Cut the shaft at the mark and push it back in. The shaft end MUST NOT stick out of the transmission case. If the shaft is in deeper, fill the hole with silicone to prevent the shaft from moving in and out. NOTE: Shifter fork is made of non-tempered metal and may be cut with a hacksaw or Dremel® cutting tool. 3.3 Important: Remove stock spacers from main and counter shafts. Spray with silicon remover (Brake-Clean) then, using supplied cleaning pad, clean shafts, new counter and main shaft gears and tapered lock rings (inside and outside) Figure 1 3.4 With motorcycle in neutral, pull both the shafts out and simultaneously push the OEM outermost gears in until seated completely to expose the shoulders of both shafts. The countershaft shoulder should be flush with the gear face. For the main shaft the gear would “hang over” the shoulder a small bit. Figure 2 3.5 Apply supplied Champion Super-Lock retaining compound to the inside and outside surfaces of the large gear tapered split ring, to the inside of the new countershaft gear (large gear) and to the transmission countershaft (the forward most shaft). 3.6 Install new countershaft gear to the transmission countershaft. Insert tapered split ring (tapered end first) into the countershaft gear. Install ring seat tool and spring to counter shaft and new countershaft gear. Torque ring seat tool to 40 ft-lb’s. Figures 3 and 4

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KTM 125 EXC, EXC SIXDAYS 200 XC, XC-W, EXC 250 XC, XC-W, EXC, EXCSIXDAYS 300 XC, XC-W, EXC-E, EXC-ESIXDAYS OWNER'S MANUAL 2008

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Chassis number The chassis number is stamped on the right side of the steering head tube. Enter this number in the field on page no 1. Engine number, engine type The engine number and the engine type are stamped into the left side of the engine below the engine sprocket. Enter this number on page 1. Clutch lever The clutch lever [1] is located on the left side of the handlebars. The adjusting screw [A] is used to change the original position of the clutch lever (see maintenance work on chassis and engine). The clutch is hydraulically actuated and adjusts itself automatically. Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [2] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [B] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see maintenance work on chassis and engine). OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » 1 2 A B
ENGLISH 6 OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » TEST All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test. WS (wheel size) The display changes and the circumference of the front wheel is briefly displayed in millimeters (2205 mm corresponds to a front wheel circumference of 21″ with production tires). Afterwards the display will return to the previous display mode. Electronic speedometer The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The display lights up when the engine is running. The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The button is used to change between display modes. The + and – buttons are used to control various functions. SPEED display mode / H (service hours) Only the SPEED / H and SPEED / ODO display modes are activated in the condition at delivery. SPEED/H is displayed whenever the display is activated and the front wheel is not turning. It automatically changes to the SPEED/ODO display mode as soon as the front wheel starts turning. SPEED displays the speed. H displays the engine’s service hours. The service hour counter starts to count as soon as you start the engine. The displayed figure cannot be changed. Service intervals are indicated in service hours for some KTM offroad motorcycles, making the service hour counter a very practical function. SPEED / ODO display mode (odometer) The SPEED/ODO mode displays the speed and the total distance traveled. The display automatically changes to the SPEED/H display mode when the front wheel stops turning. + button no function – button no function briefly press buttonchanges to the next display mode hold button 3 secs. changes to the next display mode The electronic speedometer has a number of display modes (functions) that you can also activate (reveal) (see: Activating and deactivating display modes).
ENGLISH 7 OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » SPEED / LAP (lap time) display mode You can use the manual stop watch to stop and store up to 10 lap times, which you can view in the LAP/LAP display mode (see below). LAP displays the lap times in hours, minutes and seconds. + button Starts and stops the stop watch, lap time is not reset to 0 – button Stops the stop watch, stores the lap time and restarts the stop watch again. The time is reset to 0. A total of 10 lap times can be stored. If the lap time continues to run after you press the – button, all 10 memory locations are occupied.To clear all of the stored lap times, hold the button for 3 seconds in the SPEED/LAP mode.Up to 10 lap times can be stored in this way. briefly press buttonChanges to the next display mode.If no lap time is stored or the motorcycle is driving, the LAP/LAP mode will be skipped. hold button 3 secs. Clears all LAP figures SPEED / CLK (time) display mode CLK displays the time in hours, minutes and seconds. + button no function – button no function briefly press buttonchanges to the next display mode hold button 3 secs. set the clock menu To set the clock, see „Setting the clock”. Activating and deactivating display modes In the display mode SPEED/H, press and hold the button for 3 seconds to access the SETUP menu. The active functions will be displayed. The blinking function can be activated by pressing the + button and deactivated by pressing the – button. Press and hold the button 3 seconds to store the settings. If no button is pressed for 20 seconds, the setting will be stored automatically and the display will return to the SPEED/H mode. + button activates the blinking display – button deactivates the blinking display briefly press buttonchanges to the next display without changing any settings hold button 3 secs. starts the SETUP stores the settings and changes to the SPEED/H mode

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DUCATI EVOLUZIONE SLIPPER CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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If installing with Ducati OEM basket you need the washer cod. 0D1SR140C220045 (3mm). – If installing with STM basket (Z12 o Z48) you need the washer cod. 001MG019 (1,5mm). – Insert the correct washer on the gear shaft. – Perform the initial hub group assembly: position the progressive engagement steel plate (003MG015) on the hub (0F3SR140J24001C) , with the step facing up. Be careful to position it correctly into the specific seats, then check that pushing one side, the opposite stand up simultaneously. – Now put the 6 steel balls (001MG025) at the bottom of the grooves using a little bit of grease. Then fix the clutch drum (0F3SR140J24002C) on the clutch hub (0F3SR140J24001C) at rest position, using an M6 screw to help locking the two parts, avoiding in this way any possibility for the steel balls (001MG025) to fall out while inserting the hub pack on the main shaft. – Insert the hub pack on the gear shaft – Insert the clutch discs starting with the sintered one and finishing with the steel guided one; total disc set thickness must be included between 36 and 36,5mm. – Remove the M6 screw from the hub (0F3SR140J24001C). – Put the drum stopper hub (003MG106) on the hub (0F3SR140J24001C). – Verify that the secondary spring support (0F3SR540B140016) is well inserted into its housing on the drum (0F3SR140J24002C). – Insert the secondary spring (0S2085) into its housing on the drum (0F3SR140J24002C). – Mount the pressure plate (003MGP10) on the drum (0F3SR140J24002C) . – Position the Evoluzione spring (0S1090) on the pressure plate (003MGP10), with the convex part facing up (STM logo facing up), making sure previously that the squared section ring (901SE003), which works as primary spring support, is well positioned into the pressure plate itself. – Assemble the complete spring stopper pack: starting from the spring stopper plate (003MG008), with the shaped side facing up as shown in the picture. Insert the ball bearing (003MG007) and finally the spring stopper hub (0F3SR140N220007). Once completed these operations, position the complete spring stopper pack inside the Evoluzione spring (0S1090). – Insert the toothed washer (901RD101) with the convex side facing up, then insert and tighten up the clutch nut (0F30S140C220013); use a dynamometric wrench setting the torque suggested by the bike manufacturer. We suggest to use the specific optional tool (UTL-0020) in order to lock the pressure plate (003MGP10) while performing this operation. – Assemble the complete bearing rest pack: insert the washer (001MG018) in its housing on the bearing rest (0F3SR140N220004). Then put in the same housing the ball bearing and the push rod pin of the original clutch. – Position the complete bearing rest pack in the pressure plate (003MGP10), making sure it fits correctly into the housing grooves. – Manually practise a little pressure on the bearing rest (0F3SR140N220004) in order to release the seat for the tightness circlip (003MG018). – Fit correctly the above mentioned tightness circlip (003MG018). MAKE SURE that it adheres to all the groove perimeter. NB: Once completed the installation, repeatedly operate the clutch lever, checking that the pressure plate performs correctly the opening and closing movements. For a road use of the clutch you have to check clutch plates set every 2000 km. Please verify that the clutch plates set thickness is between 36,5mm and 35,0mm. If it is inferior to 35,0mm please replace a 1,5 steel plate with a 2 mm steel plate. For a racing use of the clutch we suggest to check the clutch plates set thickness frequently. GENERAL SAFETY REGULATIONS – In this sheet are reported the directions to perform correctly the clutch assembly operations. – STM reserves the right – without notice – to introduce any technical change whenever deemed it to be necessary to improve functionality and quality of the products. – Assembly operations must be performed by a skilled technician and must be scrupulously observed. – Before mounting the clutch make a complete inspection of the various parts, in order to verify the possible presence of faults or anomalies on the motorbike. – Make sure that there are no missing/damaged parts in the package . – Some parts of the clutch and its components can have sharp surface: handle with care. – Some components of the clutch, because of their small dimensions can be swallowed: keep away from children. STRADA srl Via Campo Archero 20 10023 Chieri ( TO ) Tel +39 011 9422832 Fax +39 011 9471447 003 MG 018 Tightness circlip

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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