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Honda Shadow A.C.E. v. Yamaha V-Star 1100 Middleweight Import Cruiser Shootout

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

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V-Star 1100 And Dragstar 1100 Modification V-Star Driving/ Passing Lights Factory Chrome Light Bar Cover Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed

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Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 Drag Star/V-Star Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-04-2011

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Fortunately, Haynes cruises to the rescue with the introduction of its new Service and Repair Manual for all Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 models – XVS650 (‘97-’05), XVS650A Classic (‘98-’05), XVS1100 (‘99–’05) and XVS1100A Classic (‘00–’05). Hailed as “… essential reading for any biker tackling his own servicing…” by Motor Cycle News, Haynes manuals have an enviable reputation. The new manual provides fully illustrated, step-by-step instructions for DIY servicing, overhaul and repairs of the engine and transmission, fuel and ignition systems, suspension and steering, the braking system and the electrical system. Each task is given a spanner rating for complexity and experience required. Checking and adjusting the valve clearances is rated as three spanners out of five. There are full-colour sections on the history of the models, on daily preride hecks and those all-important wiring diagrams, plus tools required and Haynes Hints. For instance, when changing the brake fluid how to tell when all the old fluid has been displaced The section guiding readers

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2003 Honda Shadow Spirit 750 VT 750DC Custom speedometer dial installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 06-11-2011

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DO NOT REMOVE THE 3 PHILLIP SCREWS ON THE BACK OF THE SPEEDOMETER. This will unscrew the circuit board and the main components inside the speedometer, and possibly damage it. Just leave those 3 screws alone. They won’t make your customization any easier if they are removed. This is the hard part. Turn the speedometer face down on a soft towel on a sturdy table, bench, etc. I used a regular flat screwdriver to do this step. There is a chrome metal ring holding the glass on the speedometer. It is factory sealed. On the bottom side of this ring start prying with a flat screwdriver under the bottom lip of the metal ring. This will be a slow process (patience, patience, patience) so don’t get in a hurry and ruin the wife’s kitchen table like I did. Go around the metal ring with a flat screwdriver prying it up as straight as you can. It’s easier doing this every millimeter or two. I had to do this about 3 times all the way around the ring. After you pry the lip of the ring up all the way around enough to loosen it up considerably, gently pull the ring off of the speedometer. The glass should come off with it. Put the glass with the chrome ring aside for later. You might want to use a soft lint free towel to rest it on

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1998 Honda Shadow Aero Specifications And Review

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-11-2010

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can fix it – let us help. The color combo that would have been featured here, had we not got rained on. As light as the morning precipitation was, a rainsuit seemed silly, and surely jeans and a leather jacket would be enough. However, at the crest of the peninsula, El Nino let his wrath be felt. A full-on downpour of Florida- like proportions dropped from the sky, without the benefit of gulf-stream warmth. Suddenly, wearing geeky-looking Gore-Tex seemed like a very good idea. Riding through six inch deep floodwaters at about 15 mph, the Aero kept a very even keel. The floorboards (first ever on a Honda) kept the feet drier than they would have been otherwise. After a brief stop at a military museum, we headed back to Honda’s HQ for a van ride to lunch at Hollywood’s House of Blues. Detail 101: Witness the huge chrome headlight/speedo assembly, with matching idiot lights set into the triple clamp. We couldn’t form much of a riding impression from our rain-soaked 30 mile jaunt, but we liked what we found. If you’re a big fan of the ACE 750, you’ll be a big fan of the Aero. Although the styling is not ground-breaking, it isn’t a carbon copy of you-know-who (hint: They’re based out of Milwaukee). The detail on the Aero is beautiful, with tasteful chrome accents and well-finished pieces. We hope to get the big 1100 back for a full test against Suzuki’s new Intruder 1500LC, Harley’s new Road King Classic, and all the other cruiser big boys some time this spring, after El Nino goes away … Manufacturer: Honda Model: 1998 Shadow Aero Price (two-tone): $9,995.00 Engine: liquid-cooled 45 degree V-twin, single crank pin Bore and Stroke: 87.5 x 91.4mm Displacement: 1099cc Carburetion: Two 36mm CV Transmission: 5 speed Wheelbase: 66.1 in Seat Height: 28.5 in Fuel Capacity: 4.2 gal with .8 gal reserve Claimed Dry Weight: 623 lbs

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ODYSSEY DRYCELL MOTORCYCLE BATTERY COMPATIBILITY

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 30-10-2010

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The Honda Ace/ Spirit 750 Lowering Kit from INSTATALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-11-2011

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The installation of the Scootworks Ace/Spirit Lowering Kit follows the same procedure as replacing the rear shocks. However, Scootworks wanted to assist you as much as possible with the installation process, and developed this instruction package. If there are any steps you feel need improvement in instructions, please email support@scootworks.com and specify the area you are having trouble with. Unpacking! The shipping container and contents must be inspected by the purchaser for damage to goods immediately upon receipt of goods, and a claim must be filed with the carrier if damage is discovered. The purchaser must contact Scootworks within 24 hours from receipt of damaged goods to file a claim, and for further instructions. Your Scootworks Ace/Spirit Lowering Kit will come packed with a left and right side lowering assembly, two large flat washers, two M8 x 1.25 hex head bolts, and these printed instructions

Yamaha V-Star 1100 Needle/ Jet Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-12-2011

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To install this needle and jet kit: • Remove carburetors from the engine per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Note: Always perform internal carburetor work in a clean area. • Remove the vacuum slide from each carburetor. • Remove the OEM needle, spacer and washers, noting order of assembly. (Note; the washers are used as shims to raise the needle, each is equivalent to ½ clip position, use these to fine tune the needle) • Counting from the top to the bottom, install the new Baron needle clip on groove #4 of the replacement Baron adjustable needles. The top is the blunt end of the needle. • Reinstall the OEM spacer and washers as shown in the figure below. • Reinstall the vacuum slides along with the diaphragm spring and reattach the diaphragm covers Note: Verify that the slides maintain their full range of movement! • Drain the fuel from the float bowls and remove the bowl covers. • Remove the OEM main jets and replace them with Baron’s supplied Mikuni main jets. Install the “base setting” main jets as indicated above. NOTE: V-Star 1100 carburetion runs staggered jetting! Make sure the front cylinder’s carburetor gets the larger main jet (numerically), and the rear cylinder’s carburetor gets the smaller main jet . Important! Extra jets have been included in your kit. These will help you fine-tune the carburetors for changing conditions. These conditions include climate and weather patterns in your area as well as exhaust equipment on your motorcycle. Barons determines the jet and clip recommendations that best suit your average riding conditions based upon information supplied to us at the time of your order. Changes in weather, altitude or modifications to your exhaust system may require jets other than those supplied. • Thoroughly clean the inside of the float bowls prior to reinstalling them. 311 #1 Industrial Way – Fallbrook, CA 92028 – USA Phone: (760) 731-1200 Fax: (760) 731-1284 E-mail: tech@baronscustom.com Website: www.baronscustom.com Included in this kit: (4)Mikuni main jets #107.5, 110, 112.5, 115, (2) titanium needles, (2) clips, (8) cap-head allen screws Tools required: 3-4-5 mm allen wrenches, 10&12 mm sockets, 10mm end wrench, phillips & flat screwdrivers, pliers, drill. Revision 4.0 • Reassemble the carburetors by reversing the order of above steps. Use the new supplied cap head Allen screws in place of the OEM Phillips head screws for the float bowls. • Locate the fuel mixture screws – they will either be a screw head or a brass plug. If it is a screw head, skip to step c . If you see a brass plug with a small hole in the center, proceed as follows: a. With a 5/32″ drill bit, carefully and slowly drill through the fuel mixture plugs

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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Honda VT1100C Shadow, Aero, Sabre SPECIFIC-FIT SADDLEBAGS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-04-2011

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The saddlebag supports are hinged 3 so they can adjust to any variance in your motorcycle’s fender strut bolt locations. The supports have a one-inch offset 4 that angles the supports outward so they space the bags away from the motorcycle’s chassis components, wheels, brakes, and moving parts. Before removing or changing any hardware, hold the supports next to the motorcycle to familiarize yourself with how they will be installed. Remove the original fender mounting bolts from one side of the fender strut and temporarily mount one support with a 10mm bolt, a plastic and steel spacer, and two washers into the front fender stay bolt hole. Then insert an 8mm bolt, a plastic and steel spacer, and two washers into the rear fender stay bolt hole. Verify that each bolt is the proper length. IMPORTANT: The VT1100 Shadow Classic, Aero, or Sabre models have 10mm (front) and 8mm (rear) threaded holes in the fender strut. Use care to not insert the wrong size mounting bolt in the strut. When installing a bolt into the fender strut, check to be sure that it does not extend inside the fender further than the original fasteners. If it does, the excess length of the bolt must be cut off, or exchanged for a shorter bolt you obtain from the hardware store or a motorcycle shop. After verifying the mounting bolts are the proper length, remove the support from the motorcycle’s fender strut. Install a grommet in each of the large holes 5 on the back side of each saddlebag. Then insert a plastic spacer 6 in each of the grommets TIP: Use soapy water to lubricate the grommets so they will slip into the holes in the bag. The vehicle images in this instruction set may be different than your motorcycle. Continued on next page… 3 Lay a support 7 (with the joint towards the rear of the bag) on the back of a bag. Temporarily put the mounting bolts 8 through the support’s holes and into the plas- tic spacers in the grommets. Place one of the support clips 9 over the center of the lower portion of the support, so the two holes in the clip align with the predrilled holes in the bag. Use the 3/16” screws and nuts from the hardware kit to attach the support clip to the backup plate inside the bag. Place the nuts on the outside of the bag. Do not over- tighten the hardware, as this may cause damage to the saddlebag. Remove the mounting bolts from the support and the plastic spacers

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