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V-Star 1100 And Dragstar 1100 Modification V-Star Driving/ Passing Lights Factory Chrome Light Bar Cover Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed

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HARLEY DAVIDSON LIGHTED MIRRORS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2011

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REMOVAL Prepare for Service Touring Models: Remove left side saddlebag, left side cover, and maxi-fuse. Refer to SADDLEBAG and MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. Softail and Dyna Models: To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Remove seat according to the instructions in the Service Manual. 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 3. Remove fuel tank according to the instructions in the Service Manual. Sportster Models: Remove left side cover and maxi-fuse. Refer to MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. V-Rod Models: Remove right side cover and maxi-fuse. Refer to MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. Remove Existing Mirrors Touring and Softail (Except FXSTD, FLSTF) Models Left side: See Figure 1. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. Right side: See Figure 2. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. 2 1 3 is03431 1. Acorn nut 2. Star washer 3. Mirror, left Figure 1. Remove L.H. Mirror (Except Sportster) 2 1 3 is03432 1. Acorn nut 2. Star washer 3. Mirror, right Figure 2. Remove R.H. Mirror (Touring, Softail – Except FXSTD, FLSTF) Dyna, FXSTD, FLSTF, and VRSC Models 1. Left side: See Figure 1. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. 2. Right side: See Figure 3. Loosen ball stud clamp (1) to remove directional lamp assembly (2). Remove retainer (3), star washer (4), and existing mirror (5) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save remaining parts. 2 5 3 1 4 is03428 1. Ball stud clamp 2. Directional lamp assembly 3. Retainer 4. Star washer 5. Mirror, right Figure 3. Remove R.H. Mirror (Dyna, FXSTD, FLSTF, VRSC) Sportster Models Left side: See Figure 4. Remove locknut (1), washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard washer and mirror but save locknut. Right side: See Figure 4. Remove locknut (1), washer (2), and existing mirror (4) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard washer and mirror but save locknut. 3 2 1 2 1 4 is03414 1. Locknut (2) 2. Washer (2) 3. Mirror, left 4. Mirror, right Figure 4. Remove Mirrors (Sportster) INSTALLATION Install Lighted Mirrors Touring and Softail (Except FXSTD, FLSTF, FXSTS, FLSTS) Models 1. Left side: See Figure 5. Install mirror stem (1) through clutch hand control assembly.

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Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 Drag Star/V-Star Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-04-2011

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Fortunately, Haynes cruises to the rescue with the introduction of its new Service and Repair Manual for all Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 models – XVS650 (‘97-’05), XVS650A Classic (‘98-’05), XVS1100 (‘99–’05) and XVS1100A Classic (‘00–’05). Hailed as “… essential reading for any biker tackling his own servicing…” by Motor Cycle News, Haynes manuals have an enviable reputation. The new manual provides fully illustrated, step-by-step instructions for DIY servicing, overhaul and repairs of the engine and transmission, fuel and ignition systems, suspension and steering, the braking system and the electrical system. Each task is given a spanner rating for complexity and experience required. Checking and adjusting the valve clearances is rated as three spanners out of five. There are full-colour sections on the history of the models, on daily preride hecks and those all-important wiring diagrams, plus tools required and Haynes Hints. For instance, when changing the brake fluid how to tell when all the old fluid has been displaced The section guiding readers

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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Harley Davidson Dakota Digital HLY-6000 Road Star Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The Road Star wiring is split into 2 different bundles with black connectors on the ends that were used to plug into the stock gauge cluster. Cut off both connectors. They are no longer needed The speed sensor wires on the HLY-6000 have a connector on the end that allows you to plug it directly into Harley Davidson speed sensors by using an appropriate adapter (sold separately). Luckily for us, the Road Star’s stock speed sensor will work just fine without an adapter so go ahead and cut off that connector, you don’t need it.
Ideally, the best location for the “brain box” unit of the HLY-6000 would be under the left side cover. Unfortunately, mine is full of other stuff so I had to improvise the location and decided to mount it to the back portion of the under-seat area. I would recommend that you mount yours under the left side cover though. The wires are the perfect length for that location. The brain box and wires could fit under the right side cover, but I don’t believe that the main gauge connector would reach. Using the wiring scheme on the last page of this guide, match up the wires on the Road Star with the corresponding wires on the HLY-6000 wiring harness and solder them together. Important Wiring Information: Both BLACK wires on the brain box need to be connected directly to the (-) terminal on the battery. Don’t connect them to anything else. The following wires from the Road Star are not used and can be taped off: • BLACK • RED / GREEN • BROWN The following wires from the HLY-6000 are not used and can be taped off: • GRAY • WHITE/ BLUE • WHITE (on main harness) • BROWN (*optional) The HLY-6000 has a “dimmer” function which is controlled by the BROWN wire. If you want the gauge to be bright all the time, then leave this wire disconnected. If you want the gauge to dim for night driving, then connect this wire to the GREEN Low Beam (+12v) wire

Honda Shadow A.C.E. v. Yamaha V-Star 1100 Middleweight Import Cruiser Shootout

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

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2002-2003 HONDA GL1800 BANK ANGLE SENSOR MOUNTING SCREWS REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-04-2011

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REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Insert the ignition key into the lock cylinder and open the fairing pocket lid by turning the key clockwise. Remove the two trim clips by pushing the cen- ter pins in. Remove the two screws. Disconnect the opener  cable and remove the right fairing pocket. 2. To access the bank angle sensor, remove the two mounting screws  securing the connector holder. Place the holder to the side. 3. To check for the proper screw size, slightly tighten both bank angle sensor screws. If the screws are tight, reassemble the unit and apply the identification mark. If the screws spin in the holes, proceed to Step 4. 4. Using a magnetic screwdriver, remove and discard one of the two 4 mm screws securing the bank angle sensor assembly. Replace with a 5 x 12 mm self-tapping screw (see the PARTS INFORMATION section on page 3 for the proper screw for this repair). Repeat for the other screw. 5. Reinstall the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. IDENTIFICATION Apply a white paint dot in the center of the under- side of the right fairing pocket lid as shown. This will indicate that the Safety Recall has been per- formed on this unit

2002-2003 GL1800 BANK ANGLE SENSOR MOUNTING SCREW REPAIR PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Insert the ignition key into the lock cylinder and open the fairing pocket lid by turning the key clockwise. Remove the two trim clips by pushing the center pins in. Remove the two screws. Disconnect the opener cable and remove the right fairing pocket. 2. To access the bank angle sensor, remove the two mounting screws securing the connector holder. Place the holder to the side. 3. To check for the proper screw size, slightly tighten both bank angle sensor screws. If the screws are tight, reassemble the unit and apply the identification mark. If the screws spin in the holes, proceed to Step 4. 4. Using a magnetic screwdriver, remove and discard one of the two 4 mm screws securing the bank angle sensor assembly. Replace with a 5 x 12 mm self-tapping screw (see the PARTS INFORMATION section on page 3 for the proper screw for this repair). Repeat for the other screw. 5. Reinstall the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. IDENTIFICATION Apply a white paint dot in the center of the underside of the right fairing pocket lid as shown. This will indicate that the Safety Recall has been performed on this unit

YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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YAMAHA 1996-2003 Road Star BILLET TACH MOUNT KIT INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 12-01-2012

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Remove and retain the (4) chrome caps from the handlebar clamps. Remove and retain the (4) stock allen head bolts. This hardware will be re-used with the new Billet Tach Mount Kit. Carefully remove the stock handlebar clamps while supporting the handlebars. INSTALLATION: 2. Slide the Electronic Tachometer (#6) into the Billet Tach Mount (#2) and secure with the 10-24 X 1/4″ Socket Set Screw (#10) supplied. Carefully pull the tachometer wire harness through the larger hole in the Billet Tach Cup (#3) and secure the Billet Tach Cup with the 10-24 X 1/8″ Socket Set Screw supplied. (The additional holes in the tach cup are for air circulation). Attach the Billet Tach Mount to the Billet Handlebar Clamp (#1) with the two 10-24 X 1-3/4″ Socket Head Screws (#4) supplied. Install the Billet Tach Mount assembly with the four stock allen head bolts and chrome caps removed in step 1 above. Adjust handlebars to desired height and torque bolts to factory specs. WIRING INSTRUCTIONS: 3. Refer to FIG. #1 . Remove Seat. Disconnect negative cable from battery. Remove fuel tank retaining bolts. Raise fuel tank about 3″-4″ to expose the Left Side Ignition Coil. It is not necessary to completely remove the gas tank on the Road Star. (V-Star 1100 applications use the right front coil and require fuel tank removal.) TIP: Long needle nose pliers are useful in removing and re-installing the coil wires. If desired, tach wire loom may be shortened as necessary. Using an appropriate crimping tool, connect the Tachometer wires in the following manner: Cut Shrink Tubing (#9) into two 1″ pieces

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