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YAMAHA Road Star Fuel Pump Relocation Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Remove seat and disconnect battery. Remove fuel tank along with both left and right side battery covers, and remove air box from carburetor (all per Yamaha standard shop manual procedures). 2. Remove chrome plastic cover over fuel pump and disconnect choke cable/knob from lower pump bracket. Remove pump-to-carb fuel line from fuel pump. Disconnect fuel pumps electrical lead connector. 3. Remove two (2) hex-head pump mounting bracket bolts and remove pump assembly from motorcycle. Slide fuel pump up and off bracket mounting posts (Caution: excess fuel may drain from pump and/or fuel lines and fuel filter!). Remove heat shield. Remove remaining fuel line from pump. Pull all fuel lines from filter and remove steel springs and hose clamps from these lines (these will be reused on the kits fuel lines). With a sharp knife or box cutter, trim off the top portion of the fuel pumps rubber isolation/mount system per Photo A. Next cut pumps wiring harness approximately half way between connector and pump. Strip the insulation from the ends of these wires as well as from the supplied Baron harness extension wires. Using the supplied electrical butt connectors, crimp Baron harness extensions red wire to pumps black-w/blue-strip wire, and Baron harness extensions black wire to pumps black wire. Repeat this process on other side of wire harness extension with pumps connector. Now, referring to Photo B, you will need to cut off the square tube that runs along the side of the fuel pump with a hack saw. Cut down toward pump body in a straight cut, then cut tube off by cutting along the body. This will allow you to twist pump in the rubber mount so the curved spigot is facing up (clockwise approx 1/4 turn). 4. Remove pump-to-carb fuel line from carb and separate electrical wires from this line. Remove this fuel line from engine. Re-route choke cable to right side of engine (toward carb) and rotate it up and over rear cylinder head back toward left side of bike. Mount new Baron choke bracket to the choke cable and tighten plastic nut. New choke bracket will mount to rear fuel tank mounting location (Photo C). 5. 99~03 models – Remove electrical relay bracket (found under the right side cover) from the bike and slide each relay off of this bracket. Install fuel pump onto new Baron Fuel Pump Bracket and install bracket in the same location as the stock bracket you just removed, using stock mounting hardware. Refer to Photo F for proper installation. 6. 04~07 models Remove electrical relays from stock bracket and remove relays from rubber holder. Cut rubber holder per Photo E and replace one of the relays into the rubber and install on to new Baron bracket. The second relay will be placed to the right of the tool bag under the seat and secured with the provided two-sided tape pad. Reconnect plugs to the relays. (Photo F)

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1928 AJS Installation Instruction Manual

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Oil delivered at “6″ goes to the big end, while that delivered at “5″ goes up to the cam box. The bottom end of the plunger also has a slot, which registers alternately with inlet ” 7 ” and outlet ” 8,” and is responsible for returning the oil from the sump to the tank. It is of greater capacity than the supply pump. To dismantle the pump, proceed as follows :— 1. Remove all pipes from the pump. 2. Remove pump from engine. 3. Remove the two nuts “A” and the pin” 3 ” from the pump. 4. Gently push the plunger out of the pump body in the direction of the arrow “C” on the drawing. To re-assemble, the reverse sequence of these operations is, of course, followed. Should it be required to remove the worm ” 2,” the brass bush ” D ” which screws into the body with a R.H. thread, must be removed first. It is of the utmost importance that the nut “A” always makes an air-tight joint with the body ; and should there be no oil returning to the tank at any time, check this joint immediately. Occasionally go over all the oil pipe unions and nuts to see that everything is tight. Should one of the unions come loose, especially on the inlet side of the pump, of course, the whole system of lubrication fails. As will be seen from the illustration, the oil pump itself is very simple. There are only two moving parts, and it is most unlikely that anything in this pump will get out of order. Should the oil not be circulating and running back to the tank, be quite sure that there is plenty of oil in the tank and that the filters are clean, before dismantling the pump. Should it be necessary to take the oil pump from the engine, make certain that the short piece of square tube which drives the pump spindle from the engine is replaced. The pump delivers oil to the big end via holes drilled down the driving side of the crank­ case, then through holes in the main shaft, up web of flywheel, and through the crank pin into the big end. Oil is also taken to the cam box. A portion of the cam box projects inside the chaincase—the end of this projection is open ; the oil from the cam box falls on to the vertical chain—from there it falls through holes in the crankcase into the sump, and is returned to the oil tank. The piston and little end of connecting rod are lubricated in the ordinary way by splash from the big end, but we have found it necessary for continued high speeds on track or in road race, above (say) 60 m.p.h. average, to take an extra supply of oil direct to the cylinder walls

Aprilia Falco Synchronizing the Cylinder Vacuum

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Motorcycle cylinders work quite independently compared to automobiles. Separate carburation, intake manifolds, exhaust pipes and sometimes even independent air filters allow the cylinders to be tuned so that one may be making more power than another. This can be due to differences in air flow, temperature, injection, or valve adjustment betwen the cylinders. Periodically, the cylinders should be synchronized. This is usually done by comparing intake manifold vacuum beneath each throttle and trimming the mixture until balanced. Some old-timers will tell you it can be done by ear, listening to the air flow in each carb throat through a tube stuck in your ear. Most modern tuners have switched to mercury sticks. Rigid tubes stuck in a bath of mercury are attached to the vacuum source. The vacuum draws the mercury up the sticks in proportion to pressure difference between the manifold and the atmosphere. In order to smooth out the individual vacuum pulses, a damping device is needed. This is nothing more than a small orifice (pin hole) restriction in the lines, placed close to the manifold with an air reservoir (length of tube) behind it. Because there is no real air flow in the gauges, there is no pressure drop across the orifice. But when the manifold vacuum drops there is a delay before the gauge pressure can bleed off and it appears steady and readable. Other types of vacuum gauges include mercury-less versions (that draw metal rods), or traditional needle, or “clock” gauges. The clock gauges are very fast acting (they are designed that way so you can see engine problems such as sticking valves). You will definitely need a damper if you choose a clock gauge. I would recommend using two side by side gauges for checking cylinder synch. The reason is, the cylinders are not perfectly independent. As one cylinder drops strength, the idle drops, and this will change the vacuum in the second cylinder’s manifold. It takes a bit of fooling around to get a cause-and-effect feel when you are turning the screws. Swapping gauges would make this difficult

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Tacoma Power Steering Pump Improving Power Steering Reservoir modification

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 02-10-2011

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For my SAS I decided to add hydraulic steering assist as it comes in real handy for rock crawling. I got the Redneck Ram setup from the folks at West Texas Off-road that includes rebuilding an earlier IFS steering box along with drilling and tapping the box for the included ram. One of the down sides of adding a ram is that it slows the steering down because the stock steering pump has to supply the added volume for the hydraulic ram. Another is that it creates a fluid volume change in the system reservoir that needs to be compensated for in some way. After doing some reading on the West Texas site about how to go about modifying a Saginaw pump and reading up on earlier Toyota pump mods for steering assist setups on the Pirate board, I decided to give it whirl and see what I could do about the Tacoma pump. Chuck Gardella was kind enough to supply me with a blown pump that I could rebuild and submit to my endless fiddling and tinkering. I plan to give him my pump in return when I get this one done and installed. You need to do something to allow for more room in the reservoir for the standard hydraulic ram assist setup so I decided to tackle the reservoir first. The reason you need the extra space is because the ram is unbalanced. That is there is a rod on one side of the cylinder and not on the other side so the volume of the fluid has to change in the system to account for the volume of the rod as it travels back and forth. I calculated the volume of the rod that I have at full stroke to be about 2 oz or so. This would equate to plus or minus up to 2 oz. in the pump reservoir. Well first off, it’s no wonder why so many folks boil their steering pumps over with heavy wheeling and have so many other steering problems. The stock power steering reservoir doesn’t even rate pint sized

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CSS/ CSR Separator, Recovery Tank, Purge Valve, CYC Timer & Pump INSTALLATION & OPERATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (CSR) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1.*The*CSS/CSR*system*skid*should*be*bolted*to*a*flat*&*level*concrete*foundation*with*suitably*sized*and*quantity*of*anchor*bolts.* The entire system (1″-6″) is on a single skid. For systems 8″ and larger, the separator stands alone on its own 3 legs, while the pump/motor, recovery tank (CSR only), and control panel are on an individual skid. It is therefore incumbent upon the installer to insure*that*the*complete*package*is*bolted*to*a*flat*&*level*concrete*foundation,*to*insure*that*the*”piping*assembly”*is*installed* without any undue stress. 2. Inspect and hydrotest all pipe connections for leaks. *All*flanged*connections*must*have*gaskets,*and*all*threaded*connections*must*have*Teflon*tape*or*anti-seize*coating. 4. Flush all new pipe construction before system operation. In the absence of a pump strainer basket, use a y-strainer with 1/4″ perforated*screen.**The*perforated*screen*must*be*at*least*the*same*size*or*one*pipe*size*larger*than*the*pump*suction.**The* perforated screen will block out larger debris such as welding rods, tools, rugs, gloves, etc. ELECTRICAL 1. Voltage supply to the system must be the same as the voltage indicated on the control panel. 2. Follow the pump operating instructions prior to start-up. 3.*Turn*the*motor*”ON”*and*check*rotation.**Rotation*must*turn*in*the*same*direction*as*the*arrow*located*on*the*pump* casing. If pump is rotating in the opposite direction then reverse L1 and L2 on the incoming power to the panel. Recheck rotation. 4. Starting or in-rush current should not exceed 3 seconds, running current should be equal to or less than nameplate full load amps (FLA). 5. Thermal Overload Setting 5a. Select the Operating Voltage 5b. Multiply Motor Service Factor (SF) by the Full Load Amps (FLA) to get the Service Factor Amps (SFA). 5c. Adjust the Thermal Overload Dial to match SFA Note: Some motors come with SFA written on the nameplate. The majority of our motors come with a 1.15 service factor, but very few come with a 1.25 SF. STARTUP 1. Open system inlet valve 100% and outlet valve 50% (supplied by others). 2.*Suction*line*must*be*flooded. 3. Open separator air vent located near the outlet, (standard on 2″ and larger). 4.*Turn*the*system*”ON.” 5. Purge all the air. 6.*For*HH*&*SP*systems,*open*outlet*valve*until*the*gauge*reads*35psi.*For*LH*systems,*open*outlet*valve*until*a*100%* opening*is*achieved.**If*system*begins*to*vibrate,*then*slightly*close*separator*outlet*until*it*stabilizes

BMW K1100LT Installing Real Cruise Control

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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The vacuum reserve canister (VRC) is used to provide adequate vacuum for the cruise control servo unit. It uses the throttle body as a vacuum source and, via the vacuum check valve, stores up vacuum for the servo to use to pull the throttle cable. You can also buy one of these at an auto parts store for about $10-15 but I decided to build my own so I could make one that would fit inside the left front of the main fairing body. If you decide to buy one, make sure you can return it if it doesn’t fit inside the fairing or be prepared to mount it somewhere else like inside the tail cowl. I used 8″ of 2″ diameter PVC tubing because that is the length that would easily fit inside the fairing It is mounted inside the fairing in front of the left “bucket.” I used white PVC tubing but, in hindsight, would use black if possible since it is visible to the rider when mounted in the fairing. I suspect that the cruise control may actually work without the use of the vacuum canister so you might want to try the cruise without a VRC. If you do install the cruise control without a VRC, you’ll want to put a vacuum check valve in the vacuum hose that goes from the throttle body to the cruise control servo unit.
11/30/2005 08:23 PM Installing Real Cruise Control on a BMW K1100 Page 4 of 8 used epoxy for assembling the VRC as it’s my permanent adhesive of choice. Cut an 8″ length of 2″ diameter PVC tubing. Sand the edges. Drill two holes as shown for the check valve and vacuum tee. There’s a vacuum tee in the bags of installation miscellany that come with the cruise control. File the webbing from the right angles before gluing it and the check valve in place. Remember to glue the tee into place before gluing the end caps on. Make sure everything has an airtight seal. I used zip-ties to hold it in place inside the main fairing body in front of the left bucket

New Automatic Transmission for Motorcycles Human-Friendly Transmission

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 18-12-2011

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High-pressure fluid flow The engine rotates the pump swash plate, which has a gear mechanism. The rotating swash plate pushes the pump pistons to increase the pressure on the hydraulic fluid and feed it to the high-pressure annular chamber. The high- pressure fluid is then fed to the oil motor piston chamber where it pushes the pistons forward, which then push the motor swash plate. Power Fluid flow from pump to motor Fluid flow from motor to pump Low-pressure fluid flow The lower-pressure hydraulic fluid returns to the pump through the low-pressure annular chamber. In this way, the fluid circulates between the pump and the motor. Movement of distributor valves and pistons The distributor valves play an important role in fluid circulation. The valves are placed both in the oil pump and motor. When the pump pistons move to the compression side, the valves connect the piston chamber and the high- pressure chamber. When the pump pistons move to the expansion side, the valves allow a connection between the piston chamber and the low-pressure chamber. The valve in the oil motor moves opposite to its counterpart in the pump, ensuring the circulation of fluid within the system

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2001-2003 XV16 Fuel Pump and Carburetor Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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Disconnect the carburetor fuel line hose at the fuel pump. •Disconnect the fuel pump wire coupler. •Remove the choke cable from fuel pump bracket. •Remove the upper engine mount, leaving the fuel pump attached to the mount. •Disconnect the TPS and carburetor wire couplers.       Disconnect the throttle cables, and then remove the carburetor. NOTE: The idle adjuster can be removed from its bracket without loosening the bracket screws. PAGE 3 of 12 HIDDEN 6mm SCREW 6mm BOLT UPPER ENGINE MOUNT/ FUEL PUMP CARBURETOR PAGE 4 of 12 Right-Hand Footrest Removal: •Disconnect and remove the brake light switch. •Remove the forward-most tie wrap around the brake hose and frame. •Remove the footrest assembly. NOTE: Leave the brake hose attached. Move the hose to the underside of the foot rest mount and support it as necessary so that it is out of the way Cylinder Head Oil Pipe Removal/ Installation: •Slightly loosen all three banjo bolts before removing them to prevent oil line deformation. NOTE: When loosening the upper banjo bolts, hold the line in place using a wrench at the flat surface on the fitting. Air Injection System (AIS) Removal: •Remove the electric starter motor. •Remove the regulator/rectifier assembly. Remove the AIS pipes from the cylinder head, but leave them attached to the AIS assembly. •Remove the three screws with 8mm heads, and then remove the AIS air filter from the right side. •Remove the three Phillips head screws holding    the AIS assembly on the frame. •Remove the AIS assembly from the left side. FOOTREST ASSEMBLY UPPER BANJO BOLT AIS AIR FILTER AIS ASSEMBLY
PAGE 5 of 12 Transfer Case Removal: •Remove the transfer case bracket first. Then remove the outer chrome cover, inner cover, and drive-sprocket nut. NOTE: There is a sealing washer between the inner case and the transfer case at the 8mm stud. Be sure to replace it during re-assembly. •Remove the two chrome oil lines between the engine and oil tank. NOTE: Retain the four O-rings for re-use. •Remove the drive pulley cover and remove the drive pulley nut. •Loosen the drive belt tension. •Remove the drive pulley, inner cover, collar, and O-ring. NOTE: The collar has a bevel on its inside diameter     for the O-ring facing inward and a bevel on the outside diameter facing the pulley. •Remove the drive and driven sprockets with chain as an assembly. •Remove the collar and O-ring. NOTE: Collar has a bevel on its inside diameter that faces inward for the O-ring. •Remove oil tank filler neck. •Remove the relay bracket on the right-hand side. NOTE: Leave the relays connected. Simply move them out of the way to allow room for transfer case removal. •Slide the transfer case out from the right side.

HARLEY DAVIDSON TOURING SUSPENSION AIR PUMP KIT OPERATION/ INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-03-2011

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OPERATION 1. Remove cap from air suspension air valve and connect pump by threading the air valve adapter (1) on the pump as shown in Figure 1. When adapter is threaded properly, the current air pressure in the system will be indicated on the gauge of the pump. Do not exceed maximum air pressure for rear suspension. Air components fill rapidly. Therefore, use low air line pressure. Failure to do so may result in possible damage to components. (00165a) NOTES See the motorcycle’s Owner’s Manual or, if installed, the air suspension lowering kit’s instruction sheet for the recommended air pressures. Using pressures outside the recommended loading range will result in a reduction of available suspension travel and reduced rider comfort. 2. To increase pressure, operate the air pump handle (4) until the desired pressure is indicated on gauge (2). Use caution when bleeding air from the suspension. Moisture combined with lubricant may leak onto the rear wheel, tire and/or brake components and adversely affect traction, which could result in death or serious injury. (00084a) NOTE The pressure release button is designed to release pressure slowly. If the button is completely or rapidly depressed, no air will be released. For the best results, depress the pressure release button slowly and only partially. 3. To decrease pressure, slowly depress the pressure release button (3) on the pump until desired pressure is indicated on gauge (2)

MOUNTAIN BIKE AIR SHOCK SET-UP AND TUNING GUIDE

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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DETAILED SET-UP 2. Installing Air Pressure – Remove the air cap from the Schrader valve on the end of the shock body. Attach the pump to the Schrader valve. Some people damage their pumps by screwing them on too far. As soon as the gauge registers pressure, screw 1/2 turn more and pump to the desired level. Use the release button on the pump to reduce air pressure. The hiss you hear when unscrewing the pump is only the air from the pump and not from the shock! Likewise, when you install the pump again, you will also hear a hiss as air from the shock fills the pump and reduces the registered pressure you previously installed. All perfectly normal when pressurizing the shock! After removing the pump, be sure to reinstall the Schrader valve cap. If the shock does not dampen properly after pressurizing, the air pressure may have been lost during pump removal as a result of a worn pump fitting o-ring that needs replacement. Do not ride the bike until the shock is properly pressurized. 3. Main Air Spring Pressure Adjustments – Air Spring adjustments are made by inflating or deflating the main air spring chamber. Since your IFP air pressure adjustment (outlined above) also affects your starting spring force, you should always adjust your IFP pressure before adjusting the main air spring pressure. You can refer to the online Quick Start guide at: www.progressivesuspension.com/literature.html for accurate main air spring pressure and sag settings matched to your bike model and body

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