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TVS – 811 Series Trap Valve Station Installation, Operation and Maintenance Instructions

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Filed Under (TVS) by admin on 29-04-2012

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In a piston valve, the control of stem and seat leakage is obtained by tightness of the valve sealing rings to the body and valve plug. The bonnet compresses the valve sealing rings against the body and the valve plug. Flexible disc springs automatically assure a tight seal by exerting pressure on the valve sealing rings, keeping them compressed. Opening and Closing the TVS Isolation Valves The isolation valve begins to stop flow when the valve plug enters the lower valve sealing ring. When the isolation valve is completely closed, the valve plug is in contact with the full height of the valve sealing rings, ensuring the best possible seal. In fact, there is no advantage to be gained in torqueing the valve closed. Armstrong recommends that after closing the isolation valves completely, the handwheel should be turned back one half turn. This makes it easy to re-open the valve by avoiding metal to metal seizure. Troubleshooting – Isolation Valves A piston valve will retain its leak tightness for several years without maintenance. In severe service, such as rapid heating and cooling, some field maintenance may be required. Depending on the problem, these simple steps may help: ! ! ! ! ! Isolation Valve leaks, when the valve is closed . First, Check to make sure the valve is actually closed . Check to see if bonnet is seated on the body, if not, tighten the bonnet nuts until the bonnet seats. This recompresses the valve sealing rings against the body and the valve plug. If valve continues to leak, replace the isolation valve assembly

CYLINDER HEAD REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 28-10-2010

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ADJUSTABLE CYLINDER HEAD STAND Head can be rotated 360 degrees. Stays in any position using a simple locking mechanism. Use on twin or four cylinder heads. Shipping weight: 14 lbs. Adjustable length-10-1/2″ to 20-1/2″ long x 14″ width x 10-3/4″ high. 35-8602 Cylinder Head Stand VALVE GUIDE DRIVERS Use for removal and installation of valve guides into cylinder head. Available in the following sizes: 35-8418 4.5mm YM-4116 35-8416 6mm YM-4064-A 35-8417 5mm YM-4097 35-8414 7mm YM-1225-A 35-8408 5.5mm YM-1122 35-8413 8mm YM-1200 VALVE GUIDE DRIVER SET (REMOVE & REPLACE) Designed for speed and accuracy, this eleven piece set provides the right tool for the job. Driver set includes two valve guide drivers (5.5mm and 6.6mm), four valve guide installers, one cutter, three cutter pilots (5.5mm, 6.6mm, and 7.7mm) and one tap handle extension bar. 35-9445 Valve Guide Driver Set YAMAHA VALVE GUIDE INSTALLERS These installers are used for installation of Yamaha shoulder less valve guides to a specific depth into the cylinder head. To use, position onto the valve guide and drive into the cylinder head until installer makes contact with cylinder head surface. Note: Must use with Valve Guide Driver. Available in the following sizes: 35-8439 4.5mm YM-4117 35-8437 5.0mm YM-4098 35-8419 5.5mm YM-4015 35-8435 6mm YM-4065-A 35-8423 7mm YM-4017 VALVE GUIDE REAMERS Reaming valve guides after installation assures a proper valve stem to valve guide fit. Available in the following sizes: 35-3829 4.5mm YM-4118 35-3851 7mm YM-1227 35-3836 5.5mm YM-1196 35-3852 8mm YM-1211 35-3847 6mm YM-4066 CLOVER VALVE LAPPING COMPOUND KIT The world famous green can with the four leaf clover. For seating valves, mating gears, and sharpening. Sold as a kit with coarse 120 grit (roughing) and 280 fine grit (finishing). 35-0309 Clover Valve Lapping Compound VALVE LAPPING TOOL The ultimate vacuum stick for insuring perfect surfaces on valves and valve seats. Interchangeable cups make unit suitable for use with virtually any size valve. Set includes vacuum stick, 3/4″ and 1/4″ diameter rubber cups. 35-8998 Valve Lapping Too

1994 – 2004 BMW Motorcycle History

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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1994 brought many changes to BMW, most obviously by the introduction of the “R259″ series twins and the elimination of the old standby “Airhead” twins that had been BMW’s trademark for seven decades. While it is interesting to look at all the technologies introduced during the 1994 to 2004 time block, it is also exciting to look into what was going on as far as changes in BMW more esoteric than measurable. In this author’s opinion there were unspoken changes in BMW’s mindset and philosophy. BMW had forged it’s reputation for long lasting, simple machines built to the highest standards and quality; aimed at a dwindling, older (OK, Jeff, more mature) market of enthusiastic but eccentric riders. They built motorcycles that were easy for the owners to maintain and modify to fit their specific wants. BMW had always built their bikes their way; often it seemed like they did so in spite of what the younger and upwardly mobile riders were looking for. By 1994, the airhead was simply not a sellable motorcycle; the buying market was younger and wanted performance in line with what the Japanese products offered at much lower prices. The K 75/100 series that were so far ahead of their time in 1984 when they were introduced were also showing their age. No doubt, BMW knew this was coming many years before the new “Oil Head” was introduced. They knew that the riding community had reduced its mean age substantially. The younger riders had money to spend on a bike that had to be BMW, yet had to be totally more modern both in performance and in perception than what BMW had been selling. Thus, the R259 was born. The Birth of the R259 Twins The new BMW corporate mindset, if you will, was no longer concerned with selling motorcycles that would be handed down from one generation to the next, nor was BMW concerned about ease of maintenance with standard hand tools. Although the new bikes were still able to outlast the riders, the concern for building units to last a quarter-million miles was not so much in the forefront of the design. The new models would have to be powerful, fast, handle better than anything on the road; they would need to offer a standard of technology that the Japanese would never build. They should be complex pieces of rolling art. Most obvious, though, was that they would build a product aimed at an entirely new market of riders who would likely not be interested in maintaining the bikes themselves or really understanding the nuances of design. The new customers BMW was looking for were serious riders who were more interested in the fun and excitement of riding than they were in savoring the history of the older designs

BMW R 1200 C And R 850 C REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 22-11-2010

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BMW Inspection 1000 km/600 miles I -BMW Service II -BMW Inspection III -BMW Annual Service IV Reading out MoDiTeC fault memory (Inspections I, II, III and IV) • Remove the left air cleaner trim panel. • Connect MoDiTeC to diagnostic plug. • Read out the fault memory. • Perform any repair work indicated. Checking throttle cable play, adjusting if necessary (Inspections I and III) • Check throttle cable for free movement and freedom from abrasion or kinking; renew if neces- sary. • With the steering turned to various angles, open the throttle twistgrip fully and allow it to close again. • When released, the twistgrip must return to the closed position by itself. • Pull back the protective cap. • Preset throttle cable play with the engine cold to 1.5 mm (0.06 in). • Warm the engine up to its regular operating tem- perature. • Adjust throttle cable play to 0.5mm (0.02 in) Changing engine oil, renew oil filter element (Inspections I, II, III and IV) L Note: If the motorcycle is ridden only for short distances or outside temperatures are below 0°C (32°F): change the oil and renew the oil filter element every 3 months, but at least every 3 000 km (1 800 miles). • Change the oil while it is at regular operating temperature. • Remove screw plug. • Unscrew oil drain plug and drain off oil. • Fit new seal and screw in drain plug. • Use oil filter wrench, BMW No. 11 4 650 , to unscrew and remove the oil filter. • Coat sealing ring on new oil filter element with oil and screw in. • Add oil. • Insert and tighten the screw plug. • Check engine oil level with the motorcycle in a horizontal position; use the auxiliary stand, BMW No. 001550 . e Caution: Never add engine oil above the MAX mark. X Tightening torque: Oil filter………………………………………………… 11 Nm Oil drain plug………………………………………… 32 Nm Fill quantity for engine: With oil filter change.. 3.75 l (6.6 Imp. pints/3.96 US quarts) Without oil filter change.. 3.50 l (6.2 Imp. pints/3.69 US quarts) Oil volume between MIN and MAX marks……0.50 l (0.88 Imp. pint/0.52 US quart) Engine oil grade: Brand-name HD oil for four-stroke spark-ignition engine, API classifications SE, SF, SG; combination with CC or CD specification

Harley-Davidson Evolution Engines, Hydraulic Lifter Limited Travel Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-10-2010

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Remove tappet assemblies from engine being sure that each one is kept with it’soriginal tappet block. NOTE: This procedure is the preferred method of installation. However, kit can be installed without removing lifters from engine. 2. Remove hydraulic piston retaining wire clip from one assembly at a time. Be careful not to bend wire clip during disassembly. 3. Completely disassemble tappet removing all parts. 4. Thoroughly clean all parts including tappet body. Remove any oil which might prevent hydraulic unit from fully collapsing during adjustment. 5. Insert one spacer from S&S HL 2 Tkit in tappet body. 6. Reassemble tappet in reverse order making sure original parts arereturned to their original positions. See Picture1. 7. Replace wire retaining clip in tappet body. 8. Put tappet back in original tappet block. 9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 for three remaining tappets. 10. Reassemble engine with modified tappets. 11. Adjust pushrods. NOTE – In all cases engine must be cold and lifter must be at lowest point of travel for pushrod adjustment To prevent accidents, remove ground cable from battery. A. Remove spark plugs. B. Bring piston to TDC on compression stroke in cylinder to be adjusted. Normally both tappets will be at their lowest point of travel. C. Extend pushrod adjustment, collapsing lifter until piston assembly is in contact with HL 2 Tspacer and pushrod is tight. If tappets contain oil, as when pushrods are readjusted after engine has been run, or if all oil was not removed during installation, extend pushrod adjustment until valve is open (about five additional turns of adjusting screw). Allow 5 minutes for hydraulic unit to bleed down. If pushrod can be turned with fingers after bleeding down, lifter is not completely collapsed, and this step must be repeated. NOTE – perform this operation on one cylinder at a time. Do not turn engine until pushrod adjustment is complete. Turning engine while valve is held off the seat could result in valve to valve or valve to piston contact and serious valve train damage. D. Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be rotated with the fingers with slight drag. NOTE – Shortening adjuster an additional six flats or full turn from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This provides additional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly, which can improve the ability of the hydraulic unit to maintain zerolash under normal operating conditions. E. Tighten lock nut. F. Follow the same procedure for all four push rods. G. Recheck pushrod adjustment after a few hundred miles. NOTES ● It is a good idea to recheck pushrod adjustment in a new engine as valve train may tighten up due to gasket compression and valve seat wear. ● Upon initial start up after modification, HL 2 Tequipped lifters may be somewhat noisy for 10-20 miles. If lifters are still noisy after 20 miles it is recommended that pushrods be adjusted 1⁄2 turnlooser. See step D

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