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2009 TRIUMPH DAYTONA 675 Triumph/ Arrow Race Rearsets

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 12-11-2010

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race harness kit, air funnel kit, racing oil pump gearing kit, adjustable camshaft sprocket kit, manual camshaft tensioner and blade kit, a reusable engine cover gasket set and racing cylinder head gaskets. Here’s a closer look at the new racing parts and their associated performance improvements: TRACS – Triumph Race Calibration Software TRACS ( T riumph Ra ce C alibration S oftware) is a new computer program that allows racers to tune Triumph’s programmable race ECU from a laptop PC. Developed by one of Triumph’s most experienced EFI calibration engineers, the programmable ECU and software was created for the growing number of competitors that are riding Triumph motorcycles at the track. The new software provides racers with quick access to a wide range of adjustments that can be downloaded to the race ECU in about 35 seconds for tuning during testing, practice and qualifying sessions. Features include: Fully programmable fuel mapping (500rpm increments, for individual cylinders). Fully programmable ignition mapping. Switchable wet and dry maps. Adjustable pit lane speed limiter and speedo calibration. Adjustable quickshifter cut duration (adjustable at low, mid and high RPM) Adjustable rev limiter up to 15,000rpm. New software strategies to improve throttle progression. Optimized software to run faster to cater for the higher RPMs involved in a race environment. Ability to save multiple maps within the memory of the PC. Ability to update an existing 2007/2008 Race ECU to 2009 specification and functionality.* (*Not all features will be available if using the 2007/08 Race harness.) Exhaust – Triumph/Arrow Titanium “Stage 3″ System Triumph has continued to collaborate with Italian race exhaust specialists Arrow Special Parts to develop a new, full titanium racing exhaust system. This system complies with current FIM regulations, works as part of the factory race kit, and offers a significant weight reduction and considerable power gains.

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2002-2004 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE AMERICA/ SPEEDMASTER CARBURETOR KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 28-10-2010

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A.) REAR WHEEL REMOVAL- PAGE 14-16 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Support motorcycle on center stand or center lift so rear wheel is suspended and there is clearance for removal. Use tie downs. 2.) If both wheels are raised chock the front wheel to prevent any weight shift when rear wheel is removed. 3.) Remove chain guard. 4.) Remove caliper and support so there is no strain on the brake line. 5.) Remove both silencers from exhaust headers. 6.) Remove axle nut and washer—support or chock rear wheel—and slide out axle. 7.) Disengage chain from sprocket and hang over swing—use soft cloth to protect swing arm from scratches that will occur if you do not cover. 8.) Lower wheel to the ground and collect spacer and caliper support arm and all fasteners for re-assembly. B.) REMOVE SEAT PAGE 15-9 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Remove the 12 mm bolt from rear seat section—if you have a pillion pad remove it first by removing the 8 mm bolt, slide forward and lift free of seat catch. Take a position where you can see what you are doing or you will scratch your painted surface. 2.) Lift seat from the rear and slide backwards to disengage tongue– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. C.) REMOVE REAR MUD GUARD PAGE 15-14 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Disconnect battery and remove from motorcycle. 2.) Disconnect electrical connectors on the underside of the mudguard. 3.) Support fender from beneath and remove the 4 side allen head mount bolts and 2 12mm hex head top front mount bolts– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. D.) REMOVE FUEL TANK PAGE 9-11 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Turn off fuel tap. 2.) Remove fuel line at the tap connection. 3.) Remove the 12mm rear tank-mounting bolt. 4.) With assistance from another set of hands support tank at the rear and lift so that the breather line is visible on the right side of the underside of tank—remove and plug line. 5.) With tank raised and supported at the rear slide backwards— disengaging it from the front mounting rubbers—set tank aside in a safe place to prevent any damage to the painted surface. E.) REMOVE SIDE COVERS PAGE 15-10 and 9-15 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Loosen and remove left side cover screws on the air filter facade— lift slightly to disengage top mounts and remove—set aside in a safe place to prevent damage to painted surface. 2.) On right side cover simply and gently pull bayonet fittings from rubber slip mounts. 3.) Secure these rubber mounts and remove for later re-assembly with the Bonneville Performance brackets.

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TRIUMPH AMERICA AND SPEEDMASTER CALIPER COVER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 23-12-2010

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS CALIPER COVER FOR TRIUMPH AMERICA & SPEEDMASTER #TA030 RIVCO 1. Clean caliper face with rubbing alcohol making sure it is free of grease, oil & debris. 2. If the caliper is below 70 degrees warm it with a hair dryer. 3. Peel the self-adhesive backing and press into place firmly and hold for 30 seconds

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2008 Triumph Rocket III specifications and pictures

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 06-11-2010

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Triumph Rocket III 2008 Picture credits – Triumph . Click to submit more pictures. 2008 Triumph Rocket III More pictures… Discuss this bike Rate this motorbike This bike’s rating Write a review Sell this motorcycle Such bikes for sale Tip a friend List related bikes General information Model: Triumph Rocket III Year: 2008 Category: Custom / cruiser Rating: 68.5 out of 100. Show full rating and compare with other bikes Engine and transmission Displacement: 2294.00 ccm (139.98 cubic inches) Engine type: In-line three Stroke: 4 Power: 140.00 HP (102.2 kW)) @ 6000 RPM Torque: 147.00 Nm (15.0 kgf-m or 108.4 ft.lbs) @ 2500 RPM Compression: 8.7:1 Bore x stroke: 101.6 x 94.3 mm (4.0 x 3.7 inches) Fuel system: Injection. Multipoint sequential electronic fuel injection Fuel control: DOHC Ignition: Digital – inductive type – via electronic engine management system Cooling system: Liquid Gearbox: 5-speed Transmission type final drive: Shaft drive (cardan) Clutch: Wet. multi-plate Physical measures Dry weight: 319.3 kg (704.0 pounds) Seat height: 739 mm (29.1 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting. Overall height: 1,166 mm (45.9 inches) Overall length: 2,499 mm (98.4 inches) Overall width: 970 mm (38.2 inches) Wheelbase: 1,694 mm (66.7 inches) Chassis and dimensions Frame type: Tubular steel. twin spine Rake (fork angle): 32.0° Front suspension: 43mm upside down forks Rear suspension: Chromed spring twin shocks with adjustable preload Front tyre dimensions: 150/80-R17 Rear tyre dimensions: 240/50-R16 Front brakes: Double disc Front brakes diameter: 320 mm (12.6 inches) Rear brakes: Single disc Rear brakes diameter: 316 mm (12.4 inches) Speed and acceleration Fuel capacity: 23.84 litres (6.30 gallons) Color options: Claret. Phantom Black Further information Parts and accessories Check out parts and accessories from our partners. Ask questions Join the 08 Triumph Rocket III discussion group, the new Triumph forum at Bikez.name or the new Custom / cruiser forum at Bikez.name. Insurance, loans, testsSearch the web for dealers, loan and insurance costs, tests, customizing, etc. Related bikes List related bikes for comparison of specs

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PASSENGER FLOORBOARD RELOCATION ARMS FOR TRIUMPH AMERICA AND SPEEDMASTER

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 25-12-2010

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1. If you are installing the relocation arms at the same time as floorboards install the floorboards first per their instructions. When installing the relocation arms with floorboards already installed proceed as follows. 2. Starting on the left side, fold the floorboard up. Remove the socket head bolt and nut which secures the floorboard to the motorcycles stock peg support and remove the floorboard taking notice of which holes the dowel pins are located in. 3. Install one of the 5/16″x1 Ω” hex bolts supplied thru the stock peg support from the backside (The threads of the bolt will face out towards you.) Place the two dowel pins into the holes at one o’clock and seven o’clock on the stock peg mount. Place the spacer blocks backside (stamped with an “L”) onto the bolt and align the hole with the pins. 4. Locate the relocation arm that has an “L” stamped on the backside of it. Place two of the supplied dowel pins into one of the two sets of the holes in the arm that are directly across from one another (180 degrees apart). Place the arm onto the spacer bock aligning the pins in the arm with the holes closest to six and twelve o’clock. Depending on which of the two sets of holes on the arm you chose the arm would, either be down at about seven o’clock or just below nine o’clock. These are the initial height settings and you may select which ever set is most comfortable for the passenger. Install one of the acorn nuts supplied onto the bolt and make finger tight. 5. Place the floorboard with its two dowel pins into the set of holes at the other end of the relocation arm that allows the floorboard to be horizontal or parallel to the ground. Use one of the 5/16″x3/4″ socket head bolts supplied to bolt the floorboard to the relocation arm and make finger tight. 6. Install the right side in the same manner, place the dowel pins in the holes at eleven o’clock and at five o’clock on the stock peg mount, then the spacer blocks backside (stamped “R”) onto the pins followed by the relocation arm with two dowel pins in one set of holes (180 degrees apart). Check to see that the right arm is at the same height or position as the left then install the acorn nut finger tight. Bolt the floorboard the other end of the arm using the remaining dowel pins and socket head bolt. Tighten the two bolts with the acorn nuts and the two socket head bolts securely

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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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K-Drive Click & Lock Saddlebag sets for Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 06-11-2010

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Each saddlebagsset is supplied in an individual packing, containing : – 1 pair of click & lock saddlebagsupports; – 1 pair of saddlebags with our clicksystem mounted on the rigid backside of the bags; – All necessary bolts; – 2 keys to lock the bags to the supports. (lock is at the inside of the bags) – 2 keys to lock the bags (only CL bags) . K-Drive Click & Lock saddlebags are fixed to the saddlebagguards by means of a lockable clicksystem. This “Click & Lock” system has many advantages: – Our bags are easily mounted and removed in just a few seconds. – The bags themselves are locked to the motorcycle with a key. – The bags don’t touch the bike and therefore don’t damage it. – They can also be attached to motorcycles without a duo saddle. – As the bags are made specifically (or adapted) for a model, every bag we manufacture fits perfectly. – Our saddlebag holders are discreet, following the contour of the motorcycle, and are perfectly chromed K-Drive is a trademark of Vartex bvba * Iparex is a very strong synthetic leather, made following our technical specifications. It has a luxury leatherlook and is one of the best materials for saddlebags. It is strong, waterproof and don’t need any maintaining. To clean it, just use water, eventually with a light natural soap. Never use any product that is meant for leather, it may harm the Iparex. K-Drive Click & Lock saddlebags are completely reinforced : – Backside : made of a strong hdpi plate; – Upper side, sides and bottom are reinforced with PVC at the inside : – Side flaps are closed with velcro for better protection against the rain. Click & Lock saddlebags have discrete “sliding” grips All buckles, logo & decorative studs are made of “zamack”. A material which is 100% rustfree For maximum protection against the rain, the sideflaps are closed with Velcro

TRIUMPH AMERICA AND SPEEDMASTER FRONT TURN SIGNAL RELOCATORS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-12-2010

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1. Remove the front turn signals as follows. The turn signal wire plugs are located inside the handlebar switch housings. Remove the two Phillips screws located on the forward facing side of the switch housing, remove the covers, unplug the turn signals and reassemble the switch housings. Unbolt the signals from their black mounting brackets, remove the brackets from the bottom side of the switch housings, reinstall the nuts and tighten securely. 2. Disassemble the two halves of the turn signal mounting clamps supplied, place the M6 X 25mm button head screws thru the hole in the side of the clamp from the inside, place the spacers supplied over the screw threads. Screw the clamps and spacers onto the turn signals. Hold the signal/clamp assemblies up to the front fork, position the signals so that the housing/lens seam is vertical and straight, carefully remove the assemblies from the forks and tighten the screws securely. Install the signal/clamps onto the forks, set to the desired height and angle and tighten the clamp screws securely. 3. Using a sharp knife slit the black wire loom from the turn signal plug back 7″. Pull the turn signal wires and plugs out from the loom. Fold the wires along the loom going down towards the headlight. Leave 2-3″ of the wire next to the plug exposed and neatly tape the rest of the wire to the loom and the loom closed back up to the handlebar switch. 4. Connect the signal wires to the plugs from the wire loom. Using the cable ties supplied tie up any loose or unconcealed wire and the plugs.

TRIUMPH AMERICA AND SPEEDMASTER SOLO RACK FITS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the 8mm bolt from the rear of the passenger seat. Remove the passenger seat by pushing the seat forward and lifting up at the front edge of the seat. Remove the 12mm bolt from the rear of the drivers seat. 2. From the supplied hardware locate the two socket head screws and washers, place the large washers onto the screws with the polished side of the washer facing the head of the screws. Place the small screw and washer thru the small hole in the rear of the solo rack, place the black plastic spacer supplied onto the screw on the bottom side of the solo rack. Holding the rack in place on the rear fender, start the screw in the rear hole. Install the remaining large screw with its washer into the front hole and tighten both screws securely.

TRIUMPH AMERICA AND SPEEDMASTER HANDLEBAR RISERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Place a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to help prevent any damage during the installation of the risers. Loosen the two 14mm riser mounting nuts located on the bottom side of the upper steering head. Loosen the four handlebar top clamp 6mm socket head screws. 2. It will help having a second person to hold the handlebars while you change the risers. Remove the four screws from the clamps and then remove the clamps. Pull the handlebars up off the risers, pull them back and rest them on top of the blanket. 3. Remove the nuts from the bottom of the risers and remove the risers carefully without allowing the risers to rotate, as this will scratch the clear coating on the upper steering head. Using the bolts, lock washers and washers supplied install the new risers making the bolts finger tight only. (NOTE; again, take care not to allow the risers to rotate as this will scratch the clear coating on the upper steering head). 4. Place the handlebars back up onto the new risers. Install the new top clamps supplied using the four M8 X 30mm socket head screws supplied. Set the height of the handlebars to the desired position, tighten the front bolts first and then the rear securely. (15-18 ft. lbs.) (There should be no gap between the riser and clamp at the front side) Tighten the two riser mounting bolts securely. (20-25 ft. lbs.). 5. Turn the handlebars all the way to the left and then right checking for any pulling or binding of the wires, hoses or cables. YOU MUST! Check to see that the throttle returns freely on its own when the handlebars are at full left and full right turn THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR OBVIOUS SAFETY REASONS! If you have a windshield installed it may be necessary to reroute the throttle cables, wires or hoses around the other side of the windshields mounting hardware to obtain adequate free play and free throttle return. You may also wish to remove the plastic clips or cable tie which secure the wiring to the handlebars and secure them to the brake hose and clutch cable (not the throttle cables) for a cleaner appearance

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