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Victory Vegas Rear LED Turn Signal Assembly Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Step 1 •Prior to installation it is recommended that you perform a Pre-Function check. To do so, remove the left side battery cover from the bike and expose the post terminals. Hold the positive red lead from the turn signal to the positive red lead of the battery and then place the negative black lead from the turn signal to the negative black lead of the battery. Do one side at a time and ensure that both sides light prior to installation. Step 2 •Remove seat (passenger too if installed) •Remove fender “eyelashes” (required first if passenger seat is installed) •Remove the fender mounting bolts •Disconnect the rear turn signal and taillight harness connector located in the battery box compartment •Remove the fender by gentle prying outward and upward on one side to clear the mounting points, then the other side •Set aside on a flat and smooth surface to protect the fender’s finish (you may want to wrap it in a large towel) Step 3 •Turn the rear fender assembly upside down on a stable and covered/protected surface to prevent damaging the fender/paint •Remove the rear tail assembly and disconnect the wiring harness and license plate light. THIS PART IS NO LONGER NEEDED! Victory Vegas Rear LED Turn Signal Assembly Installation Guide •Remove the stock metal spacers shown below and replace them with the ¼” rubber spacers included in your accessory/installation kit. Step 4 •Place the turn signal assembly mounting arms over the rubber spacers. Align the turn signal in place so the space between the fender and the turn signal tube is consistent. After completing this step, place a small amount of Loc-Tite to the bolt and slowly tighten the stock nuts snugly in place, (extreme over-tightening may damage turn signal or fender lip). You should not need to loosen the mounting arms which are attached to the turn signal bracket to obtain the ideal fit; they are pre-assembled to be aligned. Please also note that due to manufacturing tolerances in the production of the fender, the rolled inner lip of it may interfere with the turn signal assembly seating properly. If this is the case, the lip can be tapped down flush with a rubber mallet or other appropriate tool. Take the necessary precautions to maintain your fender’s finish should this step be necessary. Step 5 •Run the wiring of the turn signal assembly in an appropriate/desireable path to the stock wiring harness. See picture below as an example. Once the wires are run, cut any excess wire and install the bullet connectors (included in the installation/accessory package) to the end of the wires. Due to the small gauge of the wire it’s suggested that you double it over before placing it into the bullet connector and solder it in place. Wire as follows:

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Kawasaki KLR Lowering Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 01-12-2010

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locate the OEM tie rods (circled in yellow, in the picture below), and the rear shock absorber snubber (circled in red, in the picture below). Notice that there is a tie rod on each side of the motorcycle. These tie rods are secured by two long bolts that pass first through the LH tie rod, then through the suspension, and finally held in place by two 17mm nuts on the RH side. Loosen these two 17mm bolts, and prepare them for removal. It helps to raise the rear tire just slightly with a jack or by a helper, to take the load off of these 17mm bolts. Below is another picture, better exposing the orange rubber snubber on the lower shock absorber rod… This is where the snubber spacers are installed, but don’t do it just yet…there’s more info on this later in the instructions. 3. Remove the 17mm nuts from the tie rods, keep the weight off of the rear wheel, and remove the upper and lower bolts from the tie rods. The rods are easily removed at this point. Take notice that the LH rod has recesses in each end, where the heads of the 17mm securing bolts fit. 4. Replace the tie rods with the new Scootworks tie rods in your kit. Install the tie rod with the recessed bolt holes on the LH side, with the recesses facing outward. Re-install the bolts from the LH side, through the LH tie rod, through the suspension, and through the RH tie rod. Secure them with the original nuts, and torque to 43 ft/lbs. The recessed bolt holes in the LH tie rod are seen in the picture of the Scootworks KLR tie rods below… 5. Do not install the plastic snubber spacers at this time. Lower the rear of the bike and remove the frame from the lift or jack stands. The rear lowering is completed. Sit on the motorcycle and determine if you’ve lowered it to a satisfactory level. If not, proceed to step #6. Your Scootworks KLR Lowering Kit is now installed. The following information is supplied as a supplement, to allow you to complete the job of lowering your bike that you’ve begun by using this Quality Scootworks product. NOTE: Be sure to check the chain tension after installation of the lowering kit, and adjust as necessary. Tips for setup and use of your lowering kit BE SURE to read the FAQ at the end of this document, for tips, warnings, and adjustments for your new lowering kit! Lowering the Front of your KLR-series Motorcycle

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Kawasaki Vulcan Front Suspension Lowering Kit Installation manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. This lowering method requires replacement of the front spring spacers. This is a simple task, and is completely reversible. First, raise the front tire off of the ground before you begin. Raise the motorcycle so no weight is applied to the front wheel. 2. Cover the gas tank with a thick towel to prevent scratching. Don’t omit this…you’ll be sorry if you do! 3. If the handlebar risers are OEM (stock), loosen the handlebars in their clamps and lift them from the risers, carefully placing them on the gas tank on a thick towel to prevent scratching. This will allow room for the spring spacers to be removed from the front forks. 4. Using a small knife blade, sharp screw driver, etc. in the pinch grove on each side of the triple clamp, gently pry upwards and pop the chromed plastic covers off. These are the covers on the top of the front forks, covering the spring retainers. Below these chrome caps, you’ll find a gold anodized metal plug with a small counter bore in the center. This is the part used to retain the springs within the front fork tubes. Using an extension bar, large Phillips screwdriver, etc., press down a bit in the counter bored area of the plug to take the pressure off of the small internal “C” ring. While this “gold” colored plug is depressed, remove the internal C-ring. The C-ring is made of small diameter wire. Once the C-ring is removed, slowly release the pressure on the plug and it’ll push itself out of the top of the shock. The picture below is of the upper fork leg with the gold retaining plug removed. 5. Stick a finger into the fork tube, and slide the OEM tubular spacer up and out of the fork tube. 6. The picture below illustrates the use of a Scootworks lowering spacer with the fork spring. On the right hand end of the you’ll see a Scootworks lowering spacer. The fork spring stays in the front fork, and you’ll drop in the spacer with the desired amount of lowering. The approximate amount of lowering is marked on each Scootworks spacer. 7. Select the spacers for the desired amount of lowering. The longest spacers supplied are marked as [1] and will lower the front suspension 1″. The spacers of middle length are marked as [2] and will lower the front suspension by 2″. The shortest spacers supplied in the kit are marked as [3] and will lower the front suspension by 3″. Omission of the spacers completely will lower the front suspension by approximately 4″. 8. Install the selected spacers in the fork tubes, on top of the internal fork spring. Place the gold anodized metal plugs on top of the spacers and press them back into the fork tube. Be sure to turn the metal plug so the side with the counter bore is facing outwards. Reinstall the C-rings, and gently lower the front end back to the ground. Make sure the C-rings seat themselves in their respective grooves when the weight of the bike is placed back on the front end. Re-install the chrome caps.

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YAMAHA ROADSTAR/ WARRIOR ADJUSTABLE REAR LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 16-01-2012

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Secure motorcycle to a bike lift and raise the motorcycle. Rear wheel should remain barely resting on the ground. 2. See diagram on page 2 for references made in parentheses, for example (#5). 3. Remove the nut from the rear suspension bolt (#5) at the bottom of the shock (#7). You may need to remove your exhaust and rear horn to access the nut and bolt. 4. Remove this suspension bolt (#5) from the non-exhaust side of the bike. You may need to raise or lower the bike to ease the tension on the bolt in order for it to come out. 5. Next remove the nut (#4) and bolt connecting the relay arm (#3) to the swingarm. From here remove the entire shock assembly and relay arm from the bike. For ease of re-installing the relay arm (Step 8) and shock be sure to take precautions that in removing the assembly, you can put it back the same way you took it off. Flipping of the relay arm can cause serious damage to the lowering kit and surrounding components. 6. Remove the two suspension arms from the relay arm(#3) and shock(#7). Compare stock arm to length of lowering arm you are about to install. Make sure the length of the lowering arm matches the link of the stock arm. To set how much you want to lower the bike, lengthen the lowering arms. Every 1/4″ longer than stock is approximately 1″ of drop. Do not lower the bike more than 2″ for safety reasons. To adjust, unscrew the large hex shaft from the threaded rods. Make sure to adjust length equally on both shafts. Be sure to tighten all jam nuts once desired lowering position is set. 7. Re-assemble the lowering arms to the top of the shock (#7) using the supplied collar, nut, and bolt. The stock collar (#6), the one in the eyelet at the top of the shock (#7), will need to be removed as it is too long. (This is because the heims are thicker than the stock arms) Do not tighten the nut, or re-install into the frame yet. 8. Re-install the relay arm (#3) to the swingarm. The large hex shafts go to the rear of the bike. This is where it

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VICTORY HAMMER, KINGPIN, VEGAS AND JACKPOT ELECTRIC HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the left and right plastic side covers and the seat (two allen bolts located below the sides of the seat). Unplug and remove the stock horn (located over the oil cooler). Connect the female ends of the jacketed two wire cable supplied to the original horn wires. Route the other end of the cable up over the engine and back to where the relay will mount as shown in photo (1). 2. Using the relay supplied with this kit and the wiring diagram provided with the horn set, identify the terminals of the relay (there are very small numbers next to each of the terminal). Connect the two (2) wires from the cable to terminals #85 & 86 on the relay. Locate the fuse holder wire assembly supplied and connect the blade terminal to the relay terminal #87 or #30. Connect the other end of the fuse wire to the battery positive terminal (+). 3. Working under the left side of the motorcycle, refer to photo (2) and install the black bracket supplied as shown onto the engine mount. Locate the four thin flat brackets and two (2) 6mm nuts supplied with the horn set and two lock washers supplied with the kit. Bolt two (2) of the brackets to each of the horns using a lock washer and 6mm nut on each and make them snug. Using the remaining 6 x 12mm bolt, nut and lock washer install the horns onto the black bracket and align as shown in photo (3). Adjust the horn location so that they are free to vibrate and do not come in contact with other parts of the motorcycle then tighten all three 6mmm bolts securely. 4. Using the two remaining wire assembles supplied, connect the larger terminals with double wires to one of the horns and the terminals with the single wire to the other horn. Route these wires up thru the frame to the relay. Connect the wire with the female blade connector to the relay terminal #30 or #87. Connect the ring terminal to the battery negative (-) terminal
or any 6m bolt on the frame. Turn on the ignition and test the horns. Secure the relay to the frame or other wiring and all loose wires using the cable ties supplied. Replace the seat and side covers

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Victory SIDEMOUNT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 13-11-2010

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1.) Prior to actually installing the bracket, the first and most important thing to do is a “mock-up”. Attach your license plate to the bracket with any frames, etc. so you’ll be sure that you have the proper clearances. 2.) Since you may come into contact with the exhaust system or parts of it, make sure your pipes are cool and/or you’re wearing gloves. 3.) If you have access to a motorcycle lift or jack, USE IT! And use it properly; with safety straps or any other related equipment. If you don’t have a jack, be sure to do the install on flat and level ground and to chock the wheels appropriately. 4.) If your vehicle is not on a lift be advised that while removing the lower shock nut it may be under tension and to exercise care and the use of proper safety equipment, (in addition to gloves, eye protection is advisable). 5.) Mostly out of cosmetic concern, when first mounting the bracket, try it on in different positions, reinstall the shock nut just enough to hold the bracket in position and take a walk around your bike and see if you like the look. Some prefer the angle mount, others the straight up vertical, or even somewhere in between to match the lines of your bike. Once you’ve decided on a final mounting position, you’re ready to install the bracket. Please note, that if you have purchased the Victory Vegas/Kingpin or Victory Hammer/Jackpot sidemount, only one mounting location is possible. 6.) Please place the enclosed washer on the outside of the bracket, between the bracket and whatever locking nut you’re using. This is to provide a cushion between the bracket and the nut, so as to protect the chrome finish when tightening to the specified torque. Failure to use it will void your warranty. 7.) We highly recommend the use of a torque wrench to ensure proper installation. Since factory torque specification can vary from bike to bike, please check your owners manual prior to tightening or contact your local dealer for that information. For example, a Victory Vegas axle nut will require 65 foot pound of torque, while a Kawasaki Mean Streak shock nut will only require 22. Do not over-torque the fastener as you may damage the finish of the bracket, which, (as stated in the Conditions section of our web site), voids your right to refund/replacement.

Victory Freedom Engines Installation Instructions for S&S Air Cleaner Kit

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1-Locate and remove the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Locate the new position for the IATS on the bottom of the S&S air cleaner. Push the IATS in the lower air cleaner cover and turn1⁄ 4 turnin either direction, make sure you feel it lock into place. Inspect from the inside of the air cleaner to ensure that the barbs are locked into place. See Picture 1. 2-Using the stock Polaris Victory air box gasket (PN 5811908) and S&S supplied (Qty 4) M6 fasteners, assemble the lower air cleaner cover to the throttle body using 243 Blue Loctite®on the treads. Torque the M6 fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. 3-Position the S&S pre-formed air filter onto the lower air cleaner cover ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 4-Install the top air cleaner cover on top of the filter ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 5-Make surethat the filter is situated in the machined grooves on both the top and bottom air cleaner covers. 6-Using 243 Blue Loctite on the threads of the S&S supplied (Qty 3) M6 fasteners tighten down top air cleaner cover evenly until seated. Finish torque the fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. Now you’re ready for breather hose and barometric pressure hose routing. 7-Locate the S&S supplied 3⁄ 16 “reinforced hose and clamps. Push one end of the hose on the 3⁄ 16 “brass barb in the bottom air cleaner cover and slide clamp up around the end of the hose. The other end of the hose is for the Barometric Pressure Sensor (MAP). Route the hose towardthe back of the engine over the top of the rear rocker cover. 8-Remove the MAP sensor from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Remove the orange rubber gasket from the MAP sensor. Slide the S&S supplied clamp over the 3⁄ 16 “rubber hose that leads to the air cleaner. Push the barbed end of the MAP sensor into the 3⁄ 16 ” rubber hose and slide clamp up to the end of the hose around the barb. A small amount of lubricant may be applied to the barb on the MAP sensor to make installation easier. 2 S&S Air Cleaner Assembly 41-0021 (Calibration cardnot shown) Picture 1 CAUTION WARNING WARNING Plastic barb locked in recess.
9-Assemble and install breather hose as follows: A-Cut the stock Victory®hose on the straight section just behind the 90 degree bend as shown in Picture 2 . B-Slide an S&S supplied 1⁄ 2 “hose clamp over the modified stock breather hose. C-Install the S&S straight barb in Victory breather hose and position a hose clamp around hose end. D-Slide the 90-degree end of breather hose over the brass barb on the air cleaner cover and slide hose clamp in place. E-Position straight end of the S&S breather hose over the 1⁄ 2 “barb to connect to the Victory hose. Slide clamp over connection. F- See Pictures 3 and 4 for breather hose and barometric pressuresensor hose installation positions. NOTE: S&S breather hose can be cut for best fit

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Victory Lowering Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 04-12-2010

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This kit was designed for use with stock length shocks ONLY! We do not recommend using shorter than stock length shocks with this kit. We highly recommend that your dealer install this kit. If you do not have access to a stand capable of securely supporting/lifting the motorcycle as well as tools capable of removing/replacing the suspension links, please allow your dealer to assist you. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1. Support motorcycle securely so that rear wheel is off the ground. 2. Remove #19, #21, #22, & #23. Refer to Fig.1 Secure & support the swing arm before removal of these parts. 3. Re-install #19, #21, & #22 using our kit in place of #23. 4. Torque fasteners to 35 ft. lbs. 5. Check for proper clearance at fender & belt guard. Please note that excessive load or other riding/road conditions could cause the bike to bottom out and potentially cause the tire to come into contact with the rear wiring harness. Adjust the pre-load of the shock per the owner’s manual or relocate the wiring harness as necessary

The Honda Ace/ Spirit 750 Lowering Kit from INSTATALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-11-2011

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The installation of the Scootworks Ace/Spirit Lowering Kit follows the same procedure as replacing the rear shocks. However, Scootworks wanted to assist you as much as possible with the installation process, and developed this instruction package. If there are any steps you feel need improvement in instructions, please email support@scootworks.com and specify the area you are having trouble with. Unpacking! The shipping container and contents must be inspected by the purchaser for damage to goods immediately upon receipt of goods, and a claim must be filed with the carrier if damage is discovered. The purchaser must contact Scootworks within 24 hours from receipt of damaged goods to file a claim, and for further instructions. Your Scootworks Ace/Spirit Lowering Kit will come packed with a left and right side lowering assembly, two large flat washers, two M8 x 1.25 hex head bolts, and these printed instructions

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Yamaha Rear Suspension Lowering Kit installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. This lowering method requires replacement rear suspension coupling components. This is a simple task, and is completely reversible. In addition, this kit provides for a 0″ setting, to easily return your bike to its original height. First, raise the rear tire off of the ground by the frame before you begin. Raise the motorcycle so no weight is applied to the rear wheel, allowing the rear wheel to spin freely. 2. Next, become familiar with your lowering kit. You’ll notice that there are two corners of the lowering component with two holes each, and one corner with a single hole. The corner with the single hole attaches to the swingarm (the bolt that is closest to the rear wheel). The only important part of this familiarization process, is to make sure that you get the part oriented in the correct position. The following photos will explain the purpose of the different holes, and also help you turn the part in the correct position before you install it. Look at the first photo on the next page: In the photo above, the part is positioned just as it should be, for installation on the left-hand side (kickstand side) of the motorcycle. A quick measurement will show that Dimension “A” on Side “A” should be shorter than Dimension “B” on Side “B”. If not, flip your part over (turn the face you are viewing away from you, but keep the corners with two holes on your left), and measure again. Next, study the photo below for info on the different heights you can set your bike to… When installed, Hole “0″ will place the bike at it’s original height. Placing the top bolt in Hole 1, and the bottom bolt in Hole 0, the bike will be lowered approximately ¾”. Placing the top bolt in Hole 1, and the bottom bolt in Hole 1, the bike will be lowered approximately 2″. Simple, eh? Now, let’s move on to installation. 3. Below is a photo of the factory suspension coupling as installed in your motorcycle. This photo was taken from the LH side of the bike, to keep things in perspective with our previous photos. Loosen the three bolts holding the original suspension coupling, and remove. Be aware that the rear wheel will drop down when the bolts are removed, just so there are no surprises!

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