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1999 Toyota Camry LE V6 Body and Interior Maintenance Record

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 03-10-2011

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Action Date Mileage Day Cost (with tax) By Interval Notes Oil and Oil Filter Change 8/30/1999 2494 Monday$77.97 Dealer 2494Non-synthetic 5w-30 (Toyota dealer stock) Oil and Oil Filter Change 10/31/1999 5484 Sunday $30 Owner 2988.5Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 12/30/1999 8460 Thursday$30 Owner 2975.9Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 2/21/2000 11414 Monday $30 Owner 2953.3Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 4/22/2000 14479 Saturday$30 Owner 3065.6Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 7/4/2000 17339 Tuesday$30 Owner 2860.1Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Air Filter – Replace 7/4/2000 17339 Tuesday$15 Owner 17339Purolator A24690 Air Filter Oil and Oil Filter Change 9/16/2000 20161 Saturday$30 Owner 2821.9Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Transmission Drain and Fill 10/27/2000 21913 Saturday$15 Owner 21913Drain and Fill 2.5 Quarts Mobil 1 Dexron III Synthetic ATF Transmission Drain and Fill 10/28/2000 21920 Sunday $15 Owner 7Drain and Fill 2.5 Quarts Mobil 1 Dexron III Synthetic ATF Oil and Oil Filter Change 11/19/2000 23066 Sunday $30 Owner 2904.6Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 2/11/2001 26062 Sunday $30 Owner 2996.1Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Transmission Flush 4/30/2001 28351 Monday$135 Dealer 2835113 Quarts Mobil 1 Dexron III Synthetic ATF – TransTech Flush Tires – Rotate 5/12/2001 28766 Saturday$0 Dealer 28766Tires – Rotate Coolant Flush 5/12/2001 28766 Saturday$112 Dealer 28766Toyota Red Coolant + MOC Flush (Extended warranty with service) Oil and Oil Filter Change 5/13/2001 28793 Sunday $30 Owner 2730.6Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Air Filter – Replace 5/13/2001 28793 Sunday $15 Owner 11454Purolator A24690 Air Filter PCV Valve – Replace 5/26/2001 31083 Saturday$10 Owner 31083Toyota OEM PCV Valve Windshield Wipers – Replace 5/26/2001 31083 Saturday$10 Owner 31083Windshield Wipers – Replace Oil and Oil Filter Change 5/27/2001 31296 Monday $30 Owner 2502.8Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Oil and Oil Filter Change 9/15/2001 34374 Saturday$30 Owner 3078.5Mobil 1 5w-30 + Mobil 1 Filter (M1-102) Tires – Replace 9/28/2001 34784 Friday$431.23 Dealer 34784 (4) Bridgestone RE950 Tires (2 of original tires had tread separation – ~30% tread remaining) Oil and Oil Filter Change 11/12/2001 37365 Monday $30 Owner

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KAWASAKI 1500 CARB THUNDER Air Filter Kit Installation And removal Instruction

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line. 7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover. 10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. 11) Remove two 8mm bolts on Bracket – Remove Bracket 12) Remove Screw on Top of air Box Snorkel 13) Remove both side covers 14) Remove air Backing plate right side (Crank Case Breather hose that connects to stock air box will connect to new) 15) Remove Bracket that holds Carb and holds Backing Plate 16) Take idle adjustable Knob loose – let hang loose 17) Take Choke Knob out of holding Bracket 18) Hose that went to cross over tube MAY BE PLUGGED OR VENTED your Choice (Fresh air unit) ** 98′S or any models with carb warmer should disconnect carb warmer by pinching off line on each side of connector that plugs into carb on bottom. Small bracket with one screw directly on the bottom of carb. 19) Loosen Clamp that holds Carb to intake Manifold, Carb will hang loose 20) Remove intake Manifold 5mm Allen- Remove crossover tube. 21) (- BE CAREFULL-) LINE IT UP RIGHT- Replace intake Manifold (YOU MAY TO SEAL THIS WITH A SEALER LIKE PERMATEX) ( BE SUPER CAREFUL TO KEEP INTAKE COVERED DURING EACH STEP. SCREWS CAN FALL ONTO INTAKE) 22) Drain Float Bowl 3mm allen – very bottom of carb 23) Remove Float Bowl 4 screws (#2 Phillips) let hang down 24) Remove main jet, if Emulsion tube comes out use 8mm and Flat tip to separate jet from Emulsion tube. 25) Install with new jet 26) CAREFULLY Reinstall Float Bowl Cover 27) If installing Needle Remove Top Cover of Carb, Carefully pull the slide out. ( BE CAREFUL WITH DIAPHRAM) Remove Spring + Needle Install new Needle (WE RECOMMEND THE 3RD CLIP FROM TOP WITH TWO WASHERS ON TOP. REINSTALL 28) Be sure to reseat diaphragm – BE CAREFUL Reinstall Cover. 29) Install Carb to Intake – reconnect carb warmer if applicable 30) Reattach idle adjustment 31) Reattach Choke 32) Reattach Bracket in front of Carb- 33) Take Center bolt mount Rubber Gromlet from Stock Air box Plate install in to new Air box Adapter use stock Bolt, Attach to Bracke

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2009 Kawasaki ULTRA 250X/ 260X FUEL INJECTION CONTROLLERS And REGULATORS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The R&D high performance Air Filter Kit will improve acceleration and top speed performance by increasing air flow and reducing air temperatures that enter directly into the Ultra 250X’s air plenum box area. The O.E.M. air plenum box on the Ultra 250X is a great design that will flow plenty of air. However, the air that feeds the plenum box is heated by the engine. R&D has created an easy to install “flat filter” that installs directly in place of the large center access inspection cover located directly under the main glove box. The R&D Flat Air Filter insert will allow unrestricted fresh and cool air to enter the air plenum box area which will add power you can feel and a nice high performance tone. The R&D Performance Filter Kit also features two filters, one for each of the surge and blowoff protections valves. The O.E.M. surge valve recycles compressed hot air back into the air box plenum at idle and under deceleration conditions. The R&D surge and blowoff valve filter kit removes the air recycling hoses which will keep the hot air from entering the air plenum box reducing the engines intake air temperatures. The R&D Ultra 250X Air Filter Kit offers great performance tips on how to remove the restrictive air vent hoses which will further reduce the under seat ambient air temperatures. The R&D Filter system does not remove or alter the O.E.M. plenum box in any way, therefore there are no questions to be answered regarding water ingestion

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Victory Freedom Engines Installation Instructions for S&S Air Cleaner Kit

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1-Locate and remove the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Locate the new position for the IATS on the bottom of the S&S air cleaner. Push the IATS in the lower air cleaner cover and turn1⁄ 4 turnin either direction, make sure you feel it lock into place. Inspect from the inside of the air cleaner to ensure that the barbs are locked into place. See Picture 1. 2-Using the stock Polaris Victory air box gasket (PN 5811908) and S&S supplied (Qty 4) M6 fasteners, assemble the lower air cleaner cover to the throttle body using 243 Blue Loctite®on the treads. Torque the M6 fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. 3-Position the S&S pre-formed air filter onto the lower air cleaner cover ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 4-Install the top air cleaner cover on top of the filter ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 5-Make surethat the filter is situated in the machined grooves on both the top and bottom air cleaner covers. 6-Using 243 Blue Loctite on the threads of the S&S supplied (Qty 3) M6 fasteners tighten down top air cleaner cover evenly until seated. Finish torque the fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. Now you’re ready for breather hose and barometric pressure hose routing. 7-Locate the S&S supplied 3⁄ 16 “reinforced hose and clamps. Push one end of the hose on the 3⁄ 16 “brass barb in the bottom air cleaner cover and slide clamp up around the end of the hose. The other end of the hose is for the Barometric Pressure Sensor (MAP). Route the hose towardthe back of the engine over the top of the rear rocker cover. 8-Remove the MAP sensor from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Remove the orange rubber gasket from the MAP sensor. Slide the S&S supplied clamp over the 3⁄ 16 “rubber hose that leads to the air cleaner. Push the barbed end of the MAP sensor into the 3⁄ 16 ” rubber hose and slide clamp up to the end of the hose around the barb. A small amount of lubricant may be applied to the barb on the MAP sensor to make installation easier. 2 S&S Air Cleaner Assembly 41-0021 (Calibration cardnot shown) Picture 1 CAUTION WARNING WARNING Plastic barb locked in recess.
9-Assemble and install breather hose as follows: A-Cut the stock Victory®hose on the straight section just behind the 90 degree bend as shown in Picture 2 . B-Slide an S&S supplied 1⁄ 2 “hose clamp over the modified stock breather hose. C-Install the S&S straight barb in Victory breather hose and position a hose clamp around hose end. D-Slide the 90-degree end of breather hose over the brass barb on the air cleaner cover and slide hose clamp in place. E-Position straight end of the S&S breather hose over the 1⁄ 2 “barb to connect to the Victory hose. Slide clamp over connection. F- See Pictures 3 and 4 for breather hose and barometric pressuresensor hose installation positions. NOTE: S&S breather hose can be cut for best fit

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Yamaha 1100 V-Star Motorcycles Oil Filter Relocation Kit Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Remove the four bolts that attach the right foot peg and foot brake assembly. Disconnect the electrical connection for the brake light. Leave the hose to the brake fluid reservoir connected. 2. Loosen and remove the muffler assembly from the motorcycle. Loosen the manifold nuts for the lower exhaust pipe (front cylinder) and remove it. 3 3. Remove the five bolts that secure the beauty cover to the motor casing and remove the cover. 4. Remove the oil filter cap and the oil filter. Be aware that the bottom bolt hole has an O- ring. Do not lose or damage this O-ring. Remove the two O-rings from the filter cap with an O-ring pick and inspect them. Replace them if there is any damage or signs of wear. 4 5. Lightly grease the O-rings and install them into their respective locations on the filter plate adapter as shown below. 6. Insert the filter plate adapter carefully into the filter housing to prevent damage to the O- rings. 7. Install the bolts for the filter plate adapter. The bottom bolt location of the filter housing requires a different bolt than all the others. This bolt has a larger head and collar diameter. The top rear bolt hole of the filter adapter will now use one of the short 6x20mm bolts removed from the beauty cover. There are two remaining holes on the motor casing left empty from the removal of the beauty cover. Use two of the bolts from the “Yamaha” cap to fill these locations. Use a thread lock compound such as Loctite ® Blue Threadlocker 243. Evenly tighten the bolts on the filter adapter with quarter turns, until tight. Finish tightening the filter plate adaptor bolts to 7.2 ft-lb each. 58. Install the short end of the spud into the remote filter housing. Do not use thread compound for this step. 9. Install the 45° Elbow to the input port of the remote filter housing as shown below. Position the opening of the fitting to face inward and down slightly to the remote filter housing. Install the fixed end of the oil lines to the remote filter housing. Use Teflon tape or some other type of thread compound on all oil line fittings. 10. Install the compression fittings to the filter plate adapter. 11. Route each oil line between the frame and the brake fluid reservoir and slightly thread the swivel from each oil line into place as shown below. Many different configurations for routing oil lines can be used depending on the height and angle chosen for the remote filter housing when mounted on the frame. Before tightening compression fittings, position the remote filter housing on the frame and adjust the routing of the lines to your preference. After choosing a routing option for the oil lines, tighten the compression fitting

YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Motorcycle Enhancements Remote Oil Filter Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Removing Your Old Filter and Beauty Cover In order to install the new Remote Oil Filter Kit, you’ll need to remove the stock Yamaha “beauty cover” and the old filter and filter cover. Remove the engine parts necessary to access the stock filter as outlined in the V-Star owner’s manual. The parts should come off in this order: 1. Muffler assembly 2. Front exhaust pipe 3. Rear brake reservoir cover bolt and brake cover (the reservoir should not be removed, it can remain in place and be moved aside as needed) 4. Right floorboard (this can be simply loosened, by loosening the two bolts underneath) With the above parts removed, you can remove the Allen bolts holding the beauty cover and filter cap from your engine. There are five Allen bolts holding the beauty cover (so named, because most of the cover just covers the chromed side of the engine There are five bolts holding the cover. Ignore the three on the “Yamaha” cap in the middle – these just hold the Yamaha cap to the beauty cover itself. One bolt is hidd – in this picture – just be the Yamaha ca en low p. The bottommost bolt on the beauty cover will likely leak some oil when you remove it – it holds on the inner oil filter cover. Once you remove the beauty cover, you can remove the oil filter cover, and the oil filter Keep these two “O” rings, you’ll need them for the remote kit Old oil filter. Toss it away; you’ll never need one again! Throw away the old filter, and carefully remove the orange and black “O” rings from the filter cover (see picture above). These two “O” rings will go on the new engine cap in the same order as on the old filter cover. “O” ring for bottom bolt. When the beauty cover and filter cover are removed, be sure not to lose the tiny “O” ring that the bottom bolt goes through. Preparing the Remote Oil Filter Kit Remove the orange and black “O” rings from the stock filter cover plate, and place them on the Remote Oil Filter Kit engine cap – black on the inside, orange on the outside – just like on the stock filter cover.

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SPIN-ON OIL FILTER ADAPTER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Place the motorcycle on its centerstand. Do this on a hard surface so the motorcycle will not easily tip. Do not do this on gravel or dirt. 2. Remove the air dam/lower cowl to gain access to the oil filter housing. Using a 12mm 6-point socket, remove the original oil filter bolt and housing. The engine will lose approx. ½ quart of oil when changing the filter. 3. Clean the engine surface behind the oil filter housing where the o-ring will seat. Install the adapter plate with the new o-ring supplied onto the threaded boss protruding from the engine with 0-ring side facing the engine. 4. Screw the hollow stud with the jam nut into the engine where the original filter bolt went. Note that the end with the longer portion of threads goes into the engine. Screw the stud in until it is finger tight. Check to be sure the o-ring on the back of the filter plate is sill in its groove. Tighten the jam nut with a 12″ crescent wrench. Be careful your wrench does not slip and marr the surface of the filter plate. Use approx. 15 to 20 lbs of force at the end of the wrench to tighten the stud. 5. YAMAHA VENTURES ONLY : The frame brace needs to be raised slightly to give you more clearance for a filter wrench when changing your filter in the future. This brace between the right & left frame rails directly over the filter. Loosen the four (2 per side) 8mm bolts (12mm wrench size) that have the long acorn nuts. After loosening the four bolts, you will notice that there is approximately ¼” slack in these bolts. Lift the brace up as far as possible & retighten the bolts. 6. Coat the new filter gasket with oil. Spin the new filter onto the adapter plate until the gasket makes contact, and then tighten ¾ of one turn. This must be done each time you install a new filter. Use a filter wrench if necessary. Be sure your filter is tight! 7. Add ½ quart of oil or change the oil if you desire. Start the engine. Allow it to run for 30 seconds or more. Rev the engine to 4,000 rpm for 20-30 seconds. Shut the engine off & check thoroughly for any oil leaks.

Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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Air Shock Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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Air HoseInstallation. Choose the most convenient loca- tiononyour motorcycle for the air fill valve. Drilla 5/16″hole and install the air fill valve as shown in Figure 3orsecure air fill valve to frame tube. 2. Keep hose ends clean during installation because dirt can cause air leaks. 3. Install hose connector, tube clamp and two O-rings onto one end of the air hose (See Figures4&5) Apply rubber lubricant (soap solution, not oil) to the O-rings to ease installation on the air hose& into the shock absorber inlet. Plastic connector should just bottom on fitting. Do not overtighten! The function of the nut is to hold everything together in place, the O- rings do the sealing. Fin- gertightenonly (10 in/lb maximum). 4. After routing the air hose, trim the length to fit air fill valve. Install hose connector, tube clamp, and twoO-rings onto end of hose (See figures 4&5). Lubricate as above and assemble to air fill valve. Use the same procedure formating hose. Important —leaveasmall amount of slack in hose near shock absorber to allow for the slight move- mentofthe shock. Caution! Do not install hose near ex- haustsystem, battery or any other sharp edges or seat movement. Keep hoses clear of moving parts such as wheels or suspension components. Do not allow hoses to have excess slack and sag below the motorcycle. The hoses could catch on road surfaces or debris and could be damaged while the motorcycle is in motion. 5. If necessary the air hose can be secured along the motorcycle’swiringharness with tie-wraps. 6. Testing: Inflate system to 50 psi. Apply soapy water solution to all connections and check for air leaks. If there are any leaks, disconnect the suspected fitting and check for dirt or damage to the air line or the O-rings. Remove any dirt or foreign matter, re-lubricate the O-rings and reinstall. If unable to locate the leak, remove rubber boot from shocks and submerge pressurized components under water (in- cludingT-Valve) and check for leaks. If you cannot solve the air leak problem, please contact our technical staff for assistance

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SUZUKI DR 650SE Oil Filter Guard Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Before starting make sure you have all the components in the exploded view below. The oil filter guard does not replace the stock oil filter cover but reinforces it with a heavy duty guard. 2. Clean the area around the oil filter housing of any dirt, mud, or grease. 3. Remove the three screws that hold the oil filter cover. 4. Remove the oil filter cover being careful not to loose the cover O-ring and the filter retaining spring. 5. Place the star lock washers over the three screws provided with your new guard. 6. Insert the screws into the mounting holes in the guard. 7. Place the stock oil filter cover over the three screws protruding from the guard. 8. Place the oil filter cover O-ring in the O-ring groove in the stock cover. 9. Place the spring over the boss on the inside of the oil filter cover. 10. Position the entire assembly on the engine and hand tighten the three screws. Be very careful not to loose the O-ring or spring. 11. Check to make sure the O-ring did not get pinched. 12. Tighten the three screws a little at a time with a final torque of 4 ft-lbs (48 in-lb) or 5.5 N-m or 0.55 kg-m. Be careful not to over tighten the screws. Also before inserting screws make sure the threaded holes are free of dirt and grit. Dirt and grit mixed with oil will soon wear away the soft aluminum and cause the threads to fail. DO NOT eliminate the lock washers. The lock washers are there to help prevent the screws from loosening due to engine vibration 13. Getting all the pieces to mount up can be a challenge but with a little practice you should become an expert. If a permanent installation is desired the oil filter cover can be glued to the guard with RTV to aid in installation and give you one less thing to hold together. My best advice is don’t hurry and be thorough. The most costly mistakes are made when you are in a hurry and are not thinking. It might be a good idea just to practice taking the oil filter cover off and putting it back on again so you know how everything fits with the filter, O-rings, and screws. 14. Start the engine and look for leaks or other problems. It is a good idea to inspect your bike before each ride and check your oil level and look for loose bolts or other damage.

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