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Yamaha V-Star 650 Engine Guard REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 03-01-2012

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Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Your new Barons engine guard will fasten to the frame at the same points as the OEM guard and will use the same hardware. 2. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, remove the 14mm bolts from the underside of the drivers footpeg mounts. 3. Remove the 12mm upper engine mount bolts located on both sides of the frame. Replacement bolts are included with your new engine guard. 4. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 5. Raise the guard until the holes in the lower mounting brackets align with the vacated bolt holes beneath the drivers footpegs. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the large washers (supplied with the guard) between the rear face of the lower bracket and the frame. The washer fills the space between the lower mounting bracket and the footpeg mount. Reinsert the 14mm bolts and finger tighten. 7. Rotate the guard until the holes in the upper mounting brackets align with the empty holes on each side of the frame. 8. Insert the replacement 13mm bolts, along with their washers, and tighten securely. Tighten all other nuts and bolts securely. 9. Remove the protection on the front fender and you’re ready to ride. CAUTION!!! You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTORCYCLE WASH KIT MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-03-2011

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THE WASHING PROCESS Allow the motorcycle to cool to the touch. Cool water can damage a hot motorcycle. 1. Pre-Wash: a. Verify the motorcycle is cool to the touch. b. Rinse the motorcycle from the bottom up. c. Verify you have the proper cleaning supplies. d. Spray on Bug Remover and let the product activate while proceeding to the next step. 2. Wheels and Tires: a. Rinse wheel and tire surfaces. b. Apply Wheel and Tire Cleaner. c. Wait one minute after spraying product. d. Clean wheel with a Soft Detailing Pad or Wheel and Spoke Brush. e. Rinse well. 3. The Wash: a. Have two buckets; one for the cleaner and one for rinsing. b. Pour Sunwash into the Harley-Davidson Cleaning Bucket and fill with water. c. Fill the rinsing bucket with clean, plain water. d. Soak the Wash Mitt in the Sunwash solution. e. Wash all surfaces from the top working down. f. Rinse from the bottom up first. g. End with top down rinse. 4. Drying the Motorcycle: a. Use the Soft Drying Towel to dry surfaces of the motorcycle. b. Dampen the towel in clean water. c. Wring out the towel as often as needed and continue until the surface is completely dry. 5. The Polish and Seal : (not applicable for denim paint finishes) Polishing and sealing isn’t just about good looks . A well cared-for motorcycle repels dust, dirt, bugs and dirty water. a. Use Harley Glaze polish and sealant and follow the instructions on the bottle. b. Use Softcloth disposable towels for application. c. A Softcloth or Microfiber detailing cloth is an absolute must for finish buffing. d. In between Harley Glaze applications, use Harley Spray Cleaner and Polish and Harley Gloss to maintain shine and protection of painted and chrome fin- ishes.

Yamaha Road Star Engine Guard Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

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1. Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. 2. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, Remove the two lower engine mount bolts. These bolts are located on the inside of the right and left frame rails, and will be replaced with the longer 10mm bolts included with your new engine guard. 3. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 4. Raise the guard until the upper V” mount is located between the frame rails. Note: Your new Barons engine guard is equipped with a unique upper V” mount clamp. This clamp becomes a cradle for the upper frame supports when it is inserted between the frame rails. 5. Rotate the engine guard until the lower mounting brackets are aligned with the lower engine mount holes. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the new 10mm bolts and washers, and finger tighten only. 7. Tighten each 3/8″ bolt in the upper clamp evenly by using a 9/16″ socket or a wrench. Snug down each bolt until it draws the front of the upper clamp into contact with the upper frame supports, then adjust these bolts accordingly to achieve equal spacing between each floorboard and the lower engine guard rail. 8. Tighten the jam nuts against the washers to lock each bolt in place. CAUTION! It is critical that you do not over-tighten these bolts. Tighten all remaining nuts and bolts securely. If necessary, slightly loosen rear brake line banjo bolt and rotate banjo fitting for clearance with engine guard. Tighten banjo bolt and check brake for proper operation. You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

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Yamaha V-Star 650 Engine Guard Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Your new Barons engine guard will fasten to the frame at the same points as the OEM guard and will use the same hardware. 2. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, remove the 14mm bolts from the underside of the drivers footpeg mounts. 3. Remove the 12mm upper engine mount bolts located on both sides of the frame. Replacement bolts are included with your new engine guard. 4. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 5. Raise the guard until the holes in the lower mounting brackets align with the vacated bolt holes beneath the drivers footpegs. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the large washers (supplied with the guard) between the rear face of the lower bracket and the frame. The washer fills the space between the lower mounting bracket and the footpeg mount. Reinsert the 14mm bolts and finger tighten. 7. Rotate the guard until the holes in the upper mounting brackets align with the empty holes on each side of the frame. 8. Insert the replacement 13mm bolts, along with their washers, and tighten securely. Tighten all other nuts and bolts securely. 9. Remove the protection on the front fender and you’re ready to ride. CAUTION!!! You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

HARLEY-DAVIDSON V-ROD BIG BORE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The cylinder sleeves provided with the Wiseco V-Rod big bore kit have been finished honed to size and the piston to cylinder clearance has been set. Prior to installation, the sleeves must be washed in hot soapy water (not parts washer solvent) and dried. Coat the bore surface with motor oil and wipe it with a white towel. If the towel shows any remaining grit, repeat the hot soapy water washing process until the towel will only show clean motor oil. CAUTION: Test fit the cleaned sleeve (without O-Rings installed) into the engine block. Sleeve should drop into position. If sleeve will not easily drop into position, warm the engine block with a hair dryer until sleeve will drop into position. Remove sleeve, then continue installation procedures. From the bottom side of the sleeve, gently roll the 2-cylinder sleeve O-rings into the two grooves on each sleeve. Apply motor oil to the O-rings and gently install the sleeves into the block until bottomed. CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL SLEEVES WITHOUT LUBRICATING THE O-RINGS. FAILURE TO LUBRICATE O-RINGS COULD RESULT IN TORN OR DAMAGED O-RINGS THAT WOULD NOT BE EVIDENT UNTIL ENGINE WAS STARTED. INCORRECTLY INSTALLED O-RINGS CAN RESULT IN CATASTROPHIC ENGINE DAMAGE. NOTE: REFER TO THE OEM SERVICE MANUAL FOR ALL TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS PISTON RING PREPARATION Wiseco V-Rod pistons incorporate an advanced 2 ring system • The top ring is file-fit, and as such, requires that the end gap must be clearanced. The proper end gap clearance is .016-.018″ with the ring installed squarely in the bore. The top ring must be installed on the piston with the dot marking toward the top of the piston. • The oil ring is comprised of the expander and two rails. Install the expander first, and then the rails. Check to make sure the expander tips have not overlapped. It is not necessary to clearance the end gaps on the oil rails. The rails should be installed without modification. PISTON INSTALLATION The Wiseco V-Rod big bore kit is supplied with pistons that are front and rear cylinder specific. Install the front piston 4792M10795 in the front cylinder with the arrow facing the front of the engine. Install the rear piston 4793M10795 in the rear cylinder with the arrow facing the front of the engine. A piston ring compressor is required to install the pistons into the cylinders. Front of engine ➔ 4792M10795 ( Front piston) 4793M10795 ( Rear piston) FWD 4793M10795 FWD 4792M10795 For further information call the Wiseco Tech Line:

SBK APRILIA RSV4 R Technical Specifications

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 06-11-2010

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The transmission has also been designed to the meet most advanced criteria to offer the maximum performance possible. To underscore the racing soul of the V4 engine, it is mated to a cassette gearbox with a wet sump lubrication system (with oil in the crankcase). The wet clutch features a mechanical slipper system for optimised engine braking torque control and stability under hard braking. THE 65° V4 ENGINE in short: Engine capacity: 999.6 cc Architecture: 65° V4 Crankcase: monobloc with integrated cylinder liners Timing system: 4 valves per cylinder (Titanium and Nymonic) operated directly by a camshaft driven by a mixed chain/gear system, lateral timing chain, central gear train. Fuel system: electronic injection with 2 injectors per cylinder and integrated independent Ride by Wire system for each bank. Three mappings selectable from handlebar. Antivibration countershaft Maximum rpm: 14,000 Compression ratio: 13:1 Transmission: six speed cassette gearbox Clutch: Multiplate wet clutch with slipper system Electronic management: Magneti Marelli control unit managing ignition, injection and Ride by Wire system. CHASSIS Aprilia bikes have always been world famous for the superiority of these chassis. RSV4 R raises the bar even higher with a totally state of the art chassis architecture which, drawing from the expertise accumulated by Aprilia in years of racing and victories, tames the explosive power of the V4 engine to offer the rider absolute control over the bike. Quite simply, the RSV4 R is the best package available today for the rider demanding the utmost in performance in a bike that is as exciting as a track day machine as it is fun to ride on the open road. Perfectly centralised masses is just one of the strengths of the RSV4 R chassis. To achieve this result, every single aspect has been optimised down to the tiniest detail. As on a racing machine, the fuel tank is positioned so that the majority of the fuel sits under the saddle optimising bike balance and cancelling out handling differences between full and empty tank conditions.

YAMAHA TW125 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-11-2010

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Dimensions: Overall length Overall width Overall height Seat height Wheelbase Minimum ground clearance Minimum turning radius 2,140 mm , 810 mm 1,120 mm , 805 mm 1,330 mm , 260 mm 2,100 mm Basic weight: With oil and full fuel tank 125 kg Engine: Engine type Cylinder arrangement Displacement Bore stroke Compression ratio Compression pressure (STD) Starting system Lubrication system: Air-cooled 4-stroke, SOHC Forward-inclined single cylinder 0.124 L (124 cm3) 57.0 48.8 mm 10.0 : 1 1,200 kPa (12.0 kg/cm2, 12.0 bar) at 1,000 r/min Electric starter Wet sump Oil type or grade: Engine oil API standard: “SE” or higher grade ACEA standard: G4 or G5 Periodic oil change With oil filter replacement Total amount 1.0 L 1.1 L 1.3 L Air filter: Wet type element Fuel: Type Fuel tank capacity Fuel reserve capacity Regular unleaded gasoline 7.0 L 1.0 L 2-2 GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS SPEC Model TW125 Carburetor: Type/quantity Manufacturer Y24P/1 TEIKEI Spark plug: Type Manufacturer Spark plug gap DR8EA NGK 0.6 0.7 mm Clutch type: Wet, multiple-disc Transmission: Primary reduction system Primary reduction ratio Secondary reduction system Secondary reduction ratio Transmission type Operation Gear ratio 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Spur gear 74/20 (3.700) Chain drive 50/14 (3.571) Constant mesh 5 speed Left foot operation 36/16 (2.250) 31/21 (1.476) 27/24 (1.125) 25/27 (0.926) 23/29 (0.793) Brake: Front brake type operation Rear brake type operation Single disc brake Right hand operation Drum brake Right foot operation Suspension: Front suspension Rear suspension Telescopic fork Swingarm (Monocross) Shock absorber: Front shock absorber Rear shock absorber Coil spring/Oil damper Coil gas spring/Oil damper Wheel travel: Front wheel travel Rear wheel travel 160 mm 150 mm Electrical: Ignition system Generator system Battery type Battery capacity C.D.I. C.D.I. magneto GM 7CZ-3D 12 V 7 AH Headlight type: Bulb type Bulb wattage quantity:

2010 Toyota Motorsports/ TRD USA Contingency Award Program

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 29-09-2011

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To enroll in the program, complete the registration form included in the enclosed material and mail, fax or e-mail it to TRD per the instructions at the bottom of the form. Contact personnel are listed on the attached 2010 Contingency Award Guidelines sheets. These people are available to assist you throughout the year. Parts Ordering: If you are planning to order Toyota parts during 2010 you must supply us with your Visa or Master Card credit card number at the time you register in the program. There is a line on the registration form for this number. See the attached Parts Ordering Guidelines for detailed information on how to order parts. TRD is looking forward to working with each of you, and we wish you a very successful year with your racing program

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Kawasaki Vulcan Front Suspension Lowering Kit Installation manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. This lowering method requires replacement of the front spring spacers. This is a simple task, and is completely reversible. First, raise the front tire off of the ground before you begin. Raise the motorcycle so no weight is applied to the front wheel. 2. Cover the gas tank with a thick towel to prevent scratching. Don’t omit this…you’ll be sorry if you do! 3. If the handlebar risers are OEM (stock), loosen the handlebars in their clamps and lift them from the risers, carefully placing them on the gas tank on a thick towel to prevent scratching. This will allow room for the spring spacers to be removed from the front forks. 4. Using a small knife blade, sharp screw driver, etc. in the pinch grove on each side of the triple clamp, gently pry upwards and pop the chromed plastic covers off. These are the covers on the top of the front forks, covering the spring retainers. Below these chrome caps, you’ll find a gold anodized metal plug with a small counter bore in the center. This is the part used to retain the springs within the front fork tubes. Using an extension bar, large Phillips screwdriver, etc., press down a bit in the counter bored area of the plug to take the pressure off of the small internal “C” ring. While this “gold” colored plug is depressed, remove the internal C-ring. The C-ring is made of small diameter wire. Once the C-ring is removed, slowly release the pressure on the plug and it’ll push itself out of the top of the shock. The picture below is of the upper fork leg with the gold retaining plug removed. 5. Stick a finger into the fork tube, and slide the OEM tubular spacer up and out of the fork tube. 6. The picture below illustrates the use of a Scootworks lowering spacer with the fork spring. On the right hand end of the you’ll see a Scootworks lowering spacer. The fork spring stays in the front fork, and you’ll drop in the spacer with the desired amount of lowering. The approximate amount of lowering is marked on each Scootworks spacer. 7. Select the spacers for the desired amount of lowering. The longest spacers supplied are marked as [1] and will lower the front suspension 1″. The spacers of middle length are marked as [2] and will lower the front suspension by 2″. The shortest spacers supplied in the kit are marked as [3] and will lower the front suspension by 3″. Omission of the spacers completely will lower the front suspension by approximately 4″. 8. Install the selected spacers in the fork tubes, on top of the internal fork spring. Place the gold anodized metal plugs on top of the spacers and press them back into the fork tube. Be sure to turn the metal plug so the side with the counter bore is facing outwards. Reinstall the C-rings, and gently lower the front end back to the ground. Make sure the C-rings seat themselves in their respective grooves when the weight of the bike is placed back on the front end. Re-install the chrome caps.

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2003 Honda Shadow Spirit 750 VT 750DC Custom speedometer dial installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 06-11-2011

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DO NOT REMOVE THE 3 PHILLIP SCREWS ON THE BACK OF THE SPEEDOMETER. This will unscrew the circuit board and the main components inside the speedometer, and possibly damage it. Just leave those 3 screws alone. They won’t make your customization any easier if they are removed. This is the hard part. Turn the speedometer face down on a soft towel on a sturdy table, bench, etc. I used a regular flat screwdriver to do this step. There is a chrome metal ring holding the glass on the speedometer. It is factory sealed. On the bottom side of this ring start prying with a flat screwdriver under the bottom lip of the metal ring. This will be a slow process (patience, patience, patience) so don’t get in a hurry and ruin the wife’s kitchen table like I did. Go around the metal ring with a flat screwdriver prying it up as straight as you can. It’s easier doing this every millimeter or two. I had to do this about 3 times all the way around the ring. After you pry the lip of the ring up all the way around enough to loosen it up considerably, gently pull the ring off of the speedometer. The glass should come off with it. Put the glass with the chrome ring aside for later. You might want to use a soft lint free towel to rest it on

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