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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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2003 – 2008 4Runner AND 2007 – 2008 FJ Cruiser FRONT AND REAR DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL SPECIFICATION CHANGE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 14-11-2011

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75W-85 GL5 synthetic gear oil beginning with the 2008 model year. This new synthetic gear oil is compatible with 2003 – 2007 model year 4Runner and 2007 model year FJ Cruiser differentials. Please refer to the Parts Information section below for information about this gear oil and use this gear oil (or equivalent) when filling front or rear differentials with oil. 2003 – 2008 model year 4Runner vehicles. 2007 – 2008 model year FJ Cruiser vehicles. PREVIOUS PART NUMBER CURRENT PART NUMBER PART NAME TYPE QTY N/A 08885-02606 Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LX 75W-85 API GL-5 SAE 75W-85 LSD As Needed N/A 08885-02506 Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT 75W-85 API GL-5 SAE 75W-85 w/o LSD As Needed Refer to the diagram below to identify if LSD or non-LSD gear oil is used on the vehicle. For applicable vehicles, there is a caution label above the filler plug, as shown below

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2008-2009 KAWASAKI TERYX HEADLAMPS HIDTERYX HID KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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a. Remove rubber boot from the back of the headlamp housing assembly. b. Push down on metal latch and pull away from lip to release halogen bulb. Pull out halogen bulb. c. Insert HID bulb, line up bulb to fit into the bulb holder, lower latch to lock bulb in place. d. Replace Rubber boot on the back headlamp assembly. (Make sure to pull wires through the center of the rubber boot first before you start to pull down boot on the back of the headlamp assembly.) e. Make sure that the wiring, coming from the HID bulb, clears the black plastic housing that encases the headlamp assembly so connection from the bulb to the ballast is possible. If installed correctly there is no need for drilling or modifications of any type. 2. Ballast a. Mount ballast in location of your choice – recommended near the headlight. 3. Wiring Note: DO NOT modify the wiring that runs from the HID bulb to the ballast. It will cause the system to work improperly. It will void the warranty . a. Once ballast is installed connect corresponding wires from HID bulb to corresponding male / female plugs on ballast. b. To connect wiring from ballast to Teryx primary system i. Find wire extension with white triangular head with black, yellow & green wires at opposite end ii. Connect black off extension to black wire coming off ballast iii. Connect Yellow / Green wire to red wire coming off ballast iv. Connect triangular head to corresponding plug on Teryx Factory Wiring End

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KAWASAKI TERYX 750 CLUTCH KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed. 2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside. 3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove) . Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside. 4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out. 5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way . 6. Next, the clutch cover bolts can be removed and the norkel on the housing can be loosened and i Teryx 750 Clutch Kit Instructions 5/1/09 removed. Take the clutch cove off and set out of the way. 7. With the clutch visible, you can remove the secondary clutch with a large impact wrench and metric socket . 8. Remove the bolt from the primary clutch. This is a left hand thread on the bolt. Next you will need a Kawasaki drive clutch puller (part #352251) to pop the clutch loose. If you do not have a puller, the spring cap can be removed on the vehicle and the weights can be changed out in there as well. 9. With the clutches sitting on the bench, remove the bolts that hold on the spring cover. Remove the stock spring and the stock weights 10. After reading the directions on the new weights, add the correct amount of weight to each clutch weight and install them in the clutch. Place the weight to the left side in the clutch pocket and then install the aluminum spacer. Repeat this process for the other three weights. 11. Install the new spring supplied in the kit and install the spring cover, paying close attention to the arrows on the cover. 12. Next, remove the stock spring from the secondary. It is recommended that you use the TEAM Compression tool (part # 930001) for this. With the clutch on the compression tool, compress the spring retainer down far enough to remove the snap ring with the needle-nose pliers . Slowly back off the t-handle and remove the tool.

Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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KTM OM-2 Split Body Floating Ball Valves Installation and Maintenance Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 26-01-2012

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Remove the valve from the shipping package (box or pallet) with care taken to avoid any damage to the valve and actuator (plus accessories where applicable). •Before installation, remove the seal discs from the flange. Clean the inside of the valve using an air line that includes an appropriate air-filter. Ensure that there are no solid objects such as pieces of wood, plastic or packing materials within the valve or on the valve seat. •Confirm that the materials of construction listed on the valve nameplates are appropriate for the service intended for and are as specified. When in doubt contact KTM, or your local Tyco facility. •Define the preferred mounting orientation with respect to the system pressure. The arrow on the body helps to identify the upstream side (high pressure) and downstream side (low pressure). •Ensure that all stud bolts and nuts of the body joint are firmly fastened. Caution •Verify that the direction of the flow in the line corresponds to the arrow indicated on the valve body. Valves without the arrow are bi-directional. •See the Actuator User Manual for the actuator preparation. 2.2. Installation Instructions •Ball valves are normally installed in horizontal pipes with the stem facing up. However, there are no limitations regarding the pipe or stem orientation. •Unless otherwise recommended by KTM, the valve should be installed with the ball in the open position, to ensure that the seat rings are not damaged during installation. •Particular care should be taken for valves equipped with “fail-close” actuators. •For operating temperatures above 200°C (392°F), thermal insulation of the valve body is recommended to protect the actuator/accessories from heat beyond the recommended temperature range. •Handling and lifting of the valves during installation MUST be performed following the same criteria and instructions described in points 1.2. and 1.3

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Cobra 2008 CX50SR (King) Ignition System installation Manual

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Many 2008 Cobra CX50SR (King) customers are experiencing performance issues with their new motorcycles. These issues include cracking/popping noises, degrading performance, and excessively hot exhaust pipes. These issues have been traced back to manufacturing flaws with the new IDM brand ignition system. Because of the time associated with getting these issues sorted out, Cobra is switching production of the 2008 King over to the PVL brand ignition system (the same design used on 2007 model King motorcycles). Customers with 2008 Kings built prior to this date may exchange it for a PVL system at no cost for the hardware. For existing product in the field, Cobra will not support the IDM system until our supplier has their component functioning properly. To install the PVL system on the 2008 King simply remove the old hardware, and bolt on new (an updated Cobra universal puller will be required to remove the ignition rotor). The timing of the new PVL system will have to be set properly during installation

2008 APRILIA RS125 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 06-11-2010

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specified in the ACU regulations. The appearance from both front, rear and profile of machines must (except when otherwise stated) conform to the homologated shape. The appearance of the exhaust system is excluded from this rule. 2. DISPLACEMENT CAPACITY The displacement must remain at 124.9cc and the bore and stroke (54 x 54.5) must remain as originally produced. 3. MINIMUM WEIGHT The minimum weight at post race control must not be less than 102kg , this includes oil and water but excludes fuel. At any time during the event, the weight of the whole machine (including the tank) must not be less than the minimum weight, with a tolerance of 1kg. 4. NUMBER PLATE COLOURS The background colours and figures for Aprilia Superteens are: FRONT Red background with white numbers – Nitro Newcomers Class White background with black numbers – J&S Championship Class REAR White background with black numbers – Both Classes Placed in accordance with the ACU regulations. 5. CARBURATION INSTRUMENTS Carburation instruments must remain as homologated. Carburettor jets and needles may be replaced. No modification, polishing or cutting is allowed. Only the 28mm bodied standard carburettor is permitted. Electronic or mechanical enriching devices must remain installed and active (If the carburettor is changed from one model to another, the appropriate wiring loom must also be installed and be operative). Bell mouths must be as originally produced by the manufacturer for the homologated machine. Throttle must be standard, quick action throttles are not permitted.
6. FUEL All machines must function on normal unleaded fuel with a maximum lead content of 0.005 g/l (unleaded) and a maximum MON of 90 (RON 102 max) and be readily available from roadside service stations nationwide. 7. FRAME BODY AND REAR SUBFRAME Frame must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. The sides of the frame body may be covered by a protective part made of composite material. Nothing can be added by welding or removed by machining from the frame body. Engine mounting brackets or plates must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. Rear sub-frame may be replaced by the later type sub-frame to accept new style bodywork on pre-2006 models, this unit must use the original mounting points. Bolt on accessories to the rear sub-frame may be removed. Front fairing bracket may be altered or replaced on pre-2006 models to accept later bodywork. 8. FRONT FORKS Forks structure (spindle, stanchions, bridges, stem etc) must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. Standard original internal parts of the forks may be modified. After market damper kits or valves may be installed. The fork caps can be modified or changed to add spring preload/compression and damping adjusters. Dust seals can be modified, changed or removed providing the fork remains totally oil sealed. Any quantity or quality of oil can be used in the front forks. The height and position of the front fork in relation to the fork crowns is free. A steering damper may be added but may not act as a steering lock device. 9. REAR FORK (Swing Arm) Every part of the rear fork must remain as originally produced (including rear fork pivot bolt and rear axle adjuster). Rear wheel stand positioning (support) brackets may be added by welding or bolts. Brackets must have rounded edges viewed from all sides. Fastening screws must be recessed. 10. REAR SUSPENSION UNIT

Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool Instruction Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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System Function Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool (FI Tool) is developed to modify the mapping of the racing machine to gain operating conditions suitable for the course and the rider’s skill. The following are the available setting functions. Table 1 FI Tool Function Model Name Functions Available Setting Range ’04 ZX-10R ’05 ZX-6RR ’05 ZX-10R ’06 ZX-10R ’07 ZX-6R 1) Adjust the injected fuel rate at acceleration -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 2) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.1 and No.4 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 3) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.2 and No.3 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 4) Adjust the injected fuel rate of primary and secondary injector * -30 % ~ +30 % -10 % ~ +10 % — – — 〇 — – — – — 〇 5) Adjust the ignition timing -15°CA~ +5°CA 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 6) Adjust the sub-throttle opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % -45 % ~ +45 % 〇 — – 〇 〇 — 〇 — – 〇 7) Adjust the exhaust device opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % 〇 — 〇 〇 — 8) Adjust the all injected fuel rates of all cylinders and operating are a simultaneously -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 9) Adjust the value of engine over revolution limiter 0 ~ +300 rpm -1000 ~ +700rpm -1000 ~+1200rpm — – — 〇 — – — 〇 — – — 〇 〇 — – 10) Set the fuel cut or not at deceleration Use or Not Use 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 11) Set the sub throttle controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 — – — – 12) Set the exhaust device controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 13) Set the Auto Shifter Ignition Cut Length Controlled or not, set Ig. Cut Time by gear range — – 〇 〇 〇 14) Set the Pit Road RPM Limit Controlled or not, set Upper Limit RPM by gear range

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