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Cobra Motorcycle and ATV Specifications CX65 CX50 Sr. (The King) CX50 Jr. ECX 70 ECX 50 ECX80AC

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 14-11-2010

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Dry Weight 122 lbs 91 lbs 81 lbs 210 lbs 206 lbs 210 lbs Engine Cobra 65cc 2-stroke Cobra 50cc 2-stroke Cobra 50cc 2-stroke Cobra 70cc 2-stroke Cobra 50cc 2-stroke Cobra 80cc 2-stroke Bore x Stroke 44.5mm x 41.7mm 39mm x 41.7mm 39mm x 41.7mm 44.5mm x 44.7mm 39mm x 41.7mm 47.6 mm x 44.7mm Induction Case Reed V-Force® Reed Valve- 24mm Mikuni carb Case Reed Carbon Pedal 19mm carb Case Reed Carbon Pedal 14mm carb Case Reed V-Force® Reed Valve- 24mm Mikuni carb Case Reed Carbon Pedal 21mm carb Case Reed V-Force® Reed Valve- 24mm Mikuni carb Cooling Water cooled Cylinder and Case Water cooled Water cooled Water cooled Cylinder and Case Water cooled Water cooled Cylinder and Case Clutch Hydraulic ally actuated Cobra 3Gx 3-Shoe Cobra 3Gx 3-Shoe Hydraulic ally actuated – (auto option) Cobra 3Gx 3-Shoe Rekluse Z-ball auto-clutch Transmission Six-speed sequential Single-speed auto Single-speed auto Six-speed sequential Single-speed auto Six-speed sequential Exhaust Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Fuel Capacity 1.06 Gallons .85 Gallons .70 Gallons 1.9 Gallons 1.9 Gallons 1.9 Gallons Frame Twin Spar Oval HSLA Double Cradle 4130 ChrMo Steel Double Cradle 4130 ChrMo Steel Arens design twin spar Arens design twin spar Arens design twin spar Wheelbase 1140mm 990 mm 908 mm 1067mm (track 915mm) 1067mm (track 915mm) 1067mm (track 915mm) Seat Height 762mm 680 mm 607 mm 762 mm 737 mm 762mm Ground Clearance 250mm 240 mm 216 mm 205 mm 205 mm 205mm Front Brakes Hydraulic Disk (205mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Rear Brakes Hydraulic Disk (165mm) Hydraulic Disk (140mm) Adjustable Drum Hydraulic Disk (180mm) Hydraulic Disk (180mm) Hydraulic Disk (180mm) Front Suspension Marzocchi 35mm USD Adjustable 220mm travel Cobra 30mm USD 210mm travel Marzocchi 32mm 168mm travel Dual A-Arm with SVO™ patented steering design. 248mm travel Dual A-Arm with SVO™ patented steering design. 248mm travel Dual A-Arm with SVO™ patented steering design. 248mm travel Rear Suspension Öhlins Fully Adjustable 270mm travel Fox Piggyback Fully Adjustable 248mm travel Öhlins Piggyback 170mm travel Fox Piggyback 220mm travel Solid axle Fox Piggyback 220mm travel Lightweight tube axle Fox Piggyback 220mm travel Solid axle Wheel Front / Rear 14″ spoke / 12″ spoke (Al rims, Billet hubs, 9ga. spokes) Cobra 12″ Billet Cobra 10″ Billet Cobra 10″ Billet Cobra 10″ Billet ITP 10×5 (4 x1) Al Douglas 8×6.5 (4×2.5) Al ITP 10×5 (4 x1) Al Douglas 8×6.5 (4×2.5) Al ITP 10×5 (4 x1) Al Douglas 8×6.5 (4×2.5) Al Tires Front / Rear 60-100×14 Dunlop 80-100×12 Dunlop 2.5×12 / 2.75×10 2.5×10 / 2.75×10 ITP Holeshot 19/6 ITP 16/6.50-9 ITP Holeshot 19/6 ITP 16/6.50-9 ITP Holeshot 19/6 ITP 16/6.50-9

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2006 King Cobra Service Procedure

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Cobra CX50 SR is a close-tolerance high performance machine and break- in time is very important for maximum life and performance. The CX50 SR can be ridden hard after the first ½ hour break-in time but it is recommended that no adjustments are made to the carburetion or suspension until the full 8 hours of bike break-in has elapsed. Also, after the engine, transmission, and drive train have been broken-in for the full 8 hours, the bike will be faster! Use a fuel / oil mixture of 32:1 for the full 8 hour break-in period. Be sure to use high-octane pump gas, with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom 2-cycle Race Oil . (Part # MCMUOL02) CAUTION: Failure to use proper fuel, oil, or fuel/oil mixture may result in premature engine wear or damage to the machine. Adhering to the following break-in schedule will result in long lasting high performance machine. • Start bike on stand • First 5 minute period, operate the bike on the stand with a combination of idle and high RPM operation. (avoid prolonged high RPM but spin the rear wheel good at least once or twice per minute) • Allow bike to cool • Ride for 15 minutes maximum (avoid prolonged high RPM operation and avoid abusing the clutch with throttle blipping. • Cool and inspect bike for loose fasteners. • Next ½ hour of operation, avoid prolonged operation at Wide Open Throttle. • After 1 hour of operation o Check for loose bolts and nuts on the bike and retighten as necessary (proper toque values are listed under Specifications). o Clean the carburetor bowl. o Change the transmission / clutch lubricant. • After 8 hours of operation o Change the fork oil. o Have a Certified Cobra Mechanic change the shock oil. • Your bike is now ready for the highest level of competition! NOTE: During break-in the bike will likely lose some engine coolant through the radiator overflow hose. Losing up to 4 oz (120 ml, ½ cup) is normal. Proper coolant level will cover the top of the radiator cores. Removing the radiator cap and looking inside is the only way to check the coolant level. 8
Never open the radiator cap of a machine that has a hot or warm engine or one that has recently been ridden. Burning and scalding could occur. CAUTION: It is important that the radiator cap is installed correctly and completely otherwise engine damage could occur. Starting Procedure Before starting the machine inspect the following: • Check for proper tire pressure in both tires. • Observe the chain tension and adjust if necessary. • Observe the coolant level and fill if necessary. • Verify that the chain rollers and sliders do not have improper wear. • Verify that the handlebars are tight. • Check the throttle for smooth operation and that it ‘clacks’ shut properly. • Check for loose bolts and nuts, and re-torque as necessary. • Verify that the air filter is clean and properly saturated with oil. • Insure that the fuel tank contains an adequate volume of fuel / oil mixture to complete the distance required. (High octane pump gas with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom 2-cycle Race Oil ) • Turn the fuel on by rotating the fuel petcock knob to the vertically downward position (reserve position is horizontally forward) CAUTION: For best results from your Cobra Motorcycle use only the recommended fuels. Testing has shown that most ‘race’ fuels actually degrade performance. Always wear a helmet and other protective riding gear. When your pre-ride inspection is complete the bike may be started. For a cold engine follow this procedure. 1. Place the motorcycle on a stand of sufficient strength that positions the motorcycle in a level upright position with the rear wheel off the ground. 2. Pull up the choke knob and turn it to lock it. 3. Kick start the engine. 4. Rev the engine in short spurts, turning the throttle no more than 1/4 open until the engine will run without the choke.

Vengeance Motorcycle Specification And Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Vengeance) by admin on 20-11-2010

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Vengeance Maxis • Vengeance Raven • Vengeance Banshee • Vengeance Whiplash • Hotrod Drifter • Hotrod CalChop • Hotrod Teacher • Hotrod Bone Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.) • Slow down before you enter the turn; look as far ahead as possible through the turn. • Keep your feet on the pegs, and grip the gas tank with your knees. • Lean with the motorcycle; don’t try to sit perpendicular to the road while the motorcycle is leaning over. • Keep an even throttle through the turn, or even accelerate a little bit. Checking the Bike before the Ride It’s not fun to have things go wrong on a motorcycle, but if you spend a minute before you go off on a ride, you can increase the chances that nothing will.

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Express ATVS -250cc Cobra Setup/ Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Unpacking your Cobra Installing the front shock Installing the front tires Installing rear shocks Installing the rear tires Installing seats and harnesses Steering wheel installation Roll cage installation Safety checks / Adjustments General maintenance Unpacking your Cobra First off you should pull the carton off from your new 250 Cobra cart. Inspect the cart thoroughly to make sure that your new Cobra has not been heavily damaged. You will notice that the product has a metal frame holding it in place; you may want to start removing bolts from the shipping steel frame. The next step is to remove the metal frame and lift it off of the cart. Remove any of the metal frame that may afford resistance when working on the cart it self. Be careful the metal frame may be heavy and sharp. Now would also be a good time to inspect your Cobra a little more thoroughly. In the box with the Cobra you should have found a box containing miscellaneous hardware. Installing the front shock Using some of the bolts you found in your box, install the front shocks sliding the bolt through the brackets and tighten the nut down. Next, you will need to place the ball head into the turning arm, then tighten the castle nut and insert a cotter pin so that the castle nut doesn’t loosen and become a hazard. Installing the front tires
Find the front tires and place them on the front hub and place the lug nuts on the studs. Tighten them down. Make sure that all of the lug nuts are on tightly. Installing the rear shocks Moving to the rear of the Cobra you will notice the rear shocks are not inserted. Place the rear shocks into the bracket on the rear of the Cobra. Slide one of the provided bolts through the bracket and shock eyelet and tighten the bolt down. Installing the rear tires Now that the shocks have been placed properly you can install the rear tires, place the tires onto the axle then place the rear rim lined up onto the axle and tighten the provided castle nut down. Place the cotter pin through the axle and bend off to the side. This is so the castle nut does not loosen under load. Installing the seats and harnesses
(The arrow points to an example of where the seat bolts mount) Find the two racing seats shipped in the box with the Cobra. You will need to affix them to the frame by sliding the bolts up through the bottom of the frame. This can be tricky so have patience. Once both seats have been placed in the cart and tightened find the harnesses. Once found the harnesses mount to a bracket behind the seats. Place a bolt through the bracket and bolt the harnesses down tightly. Installing the steering wheel Find the steering wheel and place it onto the steering wheel mount. Grab the six small screws and place them through the steering wheel and mount, tighten them down but also make sure the top of the wheel is facing up. Installing the roll cage

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1300 Yamaha V-Star Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

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1) Place motorcycle on a firm level surface and secure in a upright position. 2) Remove saddle bags and saddle bag hardware (Tourer model only) Also remove rear riders pegs (Tourer model requires removal of rear footpeg offset hardware as well) 3) Attach bracket A (right) / B (left) to rear footpeg attachment point using new bolts provided. Remount footpegs/saddlebag hardware over top of brackets A/B. NOTE: Do not attach leveling stand bracket at this time 4) Attach bracket C(right) / D(left) to rear fender sub frame using new bolts provided. (Tourer model only – Saddle bag hardware mounts to the outside of brackets C/D. Brackets C/D mount between chrome side rail and saddlebag hardware.) NOTE: Brackets C/D have welded spacers which attach in toward rear fender 5) Attach top of Bracket E(right) / F(left) to rear of brackets C/D. Brackets E/F mount to the inside of brackets C/D. NOTE: Use ½ inch spacer between brackets E/F and C/D on Tourer model ONLY
6) Attach rear of brackets A/B to TOP of forward hitch arms. Attach bottom to brackets E/F to rear hitch plate. 7) Carefully tighten all bolts at this time ensuring hitch is square with motorcycle. Hitch Bracket Identification Leveling stand screw jack installation 1) Attach leveling stand brackets to brackets A and B 2) Thread right side screw jack into threaded hole on leveling stand bracket attached to bracket A sand adjust leveling jack bolt out. 3) Push motorcycle over from left side until right screw jack is touching floor. 4) Thread left side screw jack into threaded hole on leveling stand bracket attached to bracket B and adjust out until motorcycle will rest upright on both screw jacks. 5) Adjust screw jacks until motorcycle is level. 6) After InstaTrike is attached to or removed from receiver hitch, be sure to remove leveling stands and leveling stand brackets. CAUTION – Use screw jacks to hold motorcycle upright and level ONLY. Do not lift motorcycle with screw jacks. CAUTION – Use care when installing screw jacks. Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position.
INSTALLATION OF THE TOW-PAC HITCH CART. 1. Place your motorcycle on a smooth flat surface, like a garage floor, and install leveling stands. Install right leveling stand first. Carefully raise motorcycle off of side stand and install left leveling stand. Caution – Use leveling stands to level motorcycle ONLY. Do not raise motorcycle with stands Caution – Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position when installing leveling stands. 2. Assemble the axles, tires and wheels, and fenders onto the tow- pac hitch cart. 3. Carefully align the tow-pac hitch cart’s hitch mount with the receiver hitch on the motorcycle. Now push the hitch mount into the receiver hitch. (this might be a little difficult until you get use to doing it. Removing the paint from the hitch mount and applying a little grease will help.) 4. Place the hitch pin through the receiver hitch and hitch mount ( alignment plate ). Install and tighten the tension bolt

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SUZUKI SV1000 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-02-2011

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MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP PRO- CEDURES This section describes the servicing procedures for each item of the Periodic Maintenance requirements. AIR CLEANER I Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 18 000 km (11 000 miles, 18 months) . • * Remove the seat. (LF6-7) • * Lift and support the feul tank . (C-74-65) • * Remove the air cleaner box cap O. • * Remove the air cleaner element O. • * Carefully use air hose to blow the dust from the cleaner ele- ment. CAUTION Always use air pressure on the throttle body side of the air cleaner element . If air pressure is used on the other side, dirt will be forced into the pores of the air cleaner element thus restricting air flow through the air cleaner element . PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-5 2-6PERIODIC MAINTENANCE • * Reinstall the cleaned or new air cleaner element in the reverse order of removal . CAUTION If driving under dusty condition, clean the air cleaner element more frequently. The surest way to accelerate engine wear is to use the engine without the element or to use a ruptured element. Make sure that the air cleaner is in good condition at all times. Life of the engine depends largely on this component! NOTE: When cleaning the air cleaner element, drain water from the air cleaner by removing the drain plug . SPARK PLUG Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 12 000 km (7 500 miles, 12 months) . No. 1 (FRONT) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the radiator mounting bolt O. • * Move the radiator forward. • * Remove the spark plug cap O. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the radiator fins . A WARNING The hot radiator and the hot engine can burn you . Wait until the radiator and the engine are cool enough to touch . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench. 1 6 I It No. 2 (REAR) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the seat. (r–,-6-7) • * Lift and support the fuel tank . (=4-65) 4-65) • * Disconnect the camshaft position sensor 1O and breather hose (Z. • * Remove the rubber heat shield ® . • * Remove the spark plug cap . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench . HEAT RANGE • * Check to see the heat range of the plug . CARBON DEPOSIT •Check to see if there are carbon deposits on the plugs . If carbon is deposited, remove it with a spark plug cleaner machine or carefully using a tool with a pointed end . SPARK PLUG GAP • * Measure the plug gap with a thickness gauge . If out of specification, adjust it to the following gap . 09900-20803 : Thickness gauge Spark plug gap OA Standard: 0.6 – 0 .7 mm (0.024 -0.028 in) ELECTRODES CONDITION •Check to see the worn or burnt condition of the electrodes . If it is extremely worn or burnt, replace the plug . And also replace the plug if it has a broken insulator, damaged thread . CAUTION Confirm the thread size and reach when replacing the plug. If the reach is too short, carbon will be deposited on the screw portion of the plug hole and engine damage may result

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Motorcycle LED lights RENEGADE LIGHTS Disconnection Guide

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Make sure your bike is cool and parked on a flat secure surface! 2. Find your battery (you may have to remove your seat or side covers in order to get to your battery) Disconnect the NEGATIVE ( -) cable. Negative battery cable must be disconnected from the battery in order to avoid safety hazards! Be sure as you disconnect the Negative cable that it does not touch or make contact with your Positive terminal 3. Disconnect the fuse holder from the battery – both the positive ( +) and negative ( -) sides. 4. Cut the wire to the light that is not working with the side cutters. 5. At the problem light twist the light case back and forth slowly and then pull firmly, DO NOT yank to remove from the motorcycle. 6. If the motorcycle led light does not come off easily, repeat the twisting motion back and froth until you feel the light loosen – then pull. 7. Pull the motorcycle led light away from the motorcycle slowly until the cut end of wire falls free. 8. If you will NOT be using your motorcycle until the new lights arrive, you may stop at this step. SAFETY POINT: Otherwise, where you cut the wire, you need to dead end or tape the cut wire. This will keep it from shorting out until the new motorcycle led light is installed. 9. Reconnect fuse holder to battery. 10. Reconnect the battery and then install the seat. 11. Return the motorcycle led light or lights to Renegade Lights along with Warranty Return Policy Form. 12. Renegade Lights will return your new motorcycle led lights along with instructions for installing them.

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2003 COBRA PW3 Owners / Service Manual

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Starting Procedure Before starting the machine inspect the following: • Fill the 2-stroke injector oil reservoir with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom 2-cycle Race Oil . • Insure that the fuel tank contains an adequate volume of fuel to complete the distance required. ( Sunoco MO2X or 93 octane pump gas). • Check for proper tire pressure in both tires. • Observe the chain tension and adjust if necessary. • Observe the coolant level and fill if necessary. • Verify that the chain rollers do not have improper wear. • Inspect the frame for; o Cracks in the metal. o Cracking paint which might indicate overly stressed material. • Verify that the handlebars are tight. • Check the throttle for; o Smooth operation and sound closing. o Frayed strands of the cable inside the throttle housing. • Check for loose bolts and nuts, and re-torque as necessary. • Verify that the air filter is clean and properly saturated with oil. • Turn the fuel on by rotating the fuel petcock knob to the vertically downward position (reserve position is horizontally forward). CAUTION: For best results from your Cobra Motorcycle use only the recommended fuels. Testing has shown that most ‘race’ fuels actually degrade performance. When your pre-ride inspection is complete the bike may be started. For a cold engine follow this procedure. 1. Place the motorcycle on a stand of sufficient strength that positions the motorcycle in a level upright position with the rear wheel off the ground. 2. On the carburetor, flip the black choke knob upward from the right side of the bike. 3. Kick start the engine by kicking the lever forward. 4. Rev the engine in short spurts, turning the throttle no more than 1/4 open until the engine will run without the choke. 5. Verify a functional engine shut-off switch by shutting off the engine. 6. Restart the engine and proceed with riding when the engine is sufficiently warm (i.e. the side of the cylinder is warm to touch). CAUTION: Never rev an engine full throttle when it’s cold or slightly warmed up. Cobra recommends that you tell your child to take it easy the first couple of minutes in practice until the engine comes up to full operating temperature. Make sure your engine is properly warmed up before racing.

HONDA CB650/ 750F/ 900F/ 1100F/ GL1100 Spark Unit Set Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-04-2011

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: 1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the seat and/or petrol tank to gain access to the original spark units (if fitted); these are normally fitted under the seat between the top frame tubing. Each of these units consists of a small alloy metal box with sleeved wires terminated by a small connector (coupler). They also have a mounting tab with a single fixing hole. 3. On four cylinder machines there will be two units, normally mounted back to back; one for cylinders 1&4 and one for cylinders 2&3. 4. For safety, disconnect the battery. 5. Unplug the couplers from each of the units. Undo the fixings and remove the units. 6. Fit the new spark units in the place of the old ones or find a suitable alternative, close to the connectors. Secure the units to the frame or mounting platform using the supplied tie-straps and adhesive mounting base (if required). If required, a thin sheet of rubber or double-sided tape can be used to keep the units in position. Do not completely wrap the units in foam rubber. 7. Push the wiring harness plugs into the new spark unit socket connectors; they will only fit one way. Reconnect the battery. 8. If you are rewiring the machine or do not have the standard wiring harness, the spark unit wire colours & functions are as follows: GREEN Ö GROUND (0 VOLTS) BLACK/WHITE Ö IGNITION SUPPLY (+12 VOLTS) VIA ENGINE STOP SWITCH YELLOW Ö IGNITION COIL OUTPUT (TO COIL —) WHITE Ö PULSE GENERATOR (WHITE RING) BLUE Ö PULSE GENERATOR (UNMARKED) There are two pulse generators, one for cylinders 1&4 and one for cylinders 2&3. The left hand one is normally for cylinders 1&4 (see fig.1). There are two wires of the same colour coming from each pulse generator, one of these wires is normally marked with a white band. The pulse generator wire with the white band connects to the white wire from the corresponding spark unit, the other pulse generator wire connects to the blue wire on the corresponding spark unit. If the white band is missing, this is normally the upper wire coming from the pulse generator. 9. Refit the seat and tank (if removed earlier). 10. Fitting is now complete, although for best results you may wish to verify the ignition timing, see the following guide

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motorcycle Turn Signal Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Place motorcycle on solid, level ground and on center stand if equipped. 2. Remove your turn signal lens. Place it upside down and clean the lens interior with the supplied alcohol wipe. Allow to completely air dry. Note: the LEDs are mounted to the inside of the turn signal lens with the LEDs making direct contact with the lens. The supplied silicone is used to secure the LED board to the lens. It remains flexible but can be removed. Test fit the board in your lens prior to using silicone. 3. Using a small screwdriver, poke a small hole in the end of the tube of silicone. Place a dab of silicone on each of the 12 LEDs on the circuit board. CAUTION : Note the position of the metal pins on the back of the LED board, They must be located 90 degrees from where the holes are that secure the lens to the housing. See attached diagram. 4. Position the round circuit board over the inside of your turn signal lens with the LEDs facing down. Get the board as centered as possible. Allow the silicone to make contact with the inside of the lens and then push down and slightly rotate the board back and forth to allow the LEDs to make contact with the lens surface. Repeat other side. NOTE : the silicone will require 30 minutes in 70 degree weather to tack up. Full cure will occur within 24 hours. We suggest not riding for several hours if possible to allow the best adhesion. 5. You will need to access the following wires; running light (license plate can be used), brake lights, right turn and left turn. Disassemble the bike as needed to gain access to the wiring. Shop Tip: we have found that on the Yamaha Star Series and the Kawasaki Cruisers that installation is much easier when you remove the turn signal bar from the fender. On the Yamahas, there are 3 bolts holding the moustache in position. The wires will unplug from behind the license plate. On the Kawasakis, unplug the signals under the seat and bend the tabs under the fender to be able to remove the wires. 6. We have provided some tubing to slide over the wires so that when you re-install the bulb socket, our wires for the LED boards will not be pinched. This tube should be slid all the way into the turn signal housing. You may have to shorten the tubing for your installation. 7. You will need to run wires through the stem of the turn signal. You can see samples of how the various manufacturers signal housings come apart on our web site. Click on “Other Lighting Products” and then “Turn Signal Conversion Kits” and follow the link. We suggest placing the removed turn signal assembly on a towel on your work area. 7. You will need to leave 2″ of slack in the wires at the turn signal housing to allow for wire connection. 8. Reinstall the turn signal housing back on the motorcycle if removed. NOTE: both of the run/brake circuits must be used. You may shorten the wires only on the run/brake circuits as needed. Do not change the circuits under the heat shrink. T-Tap instructions. Lay the “donor” wire in the slot in the burgandy connector. Close and snap together with pliars. Strip some insulation off of the wire which will be tapping into the factory wire. Crimp one of the pink connectors on the bare wire and plug it into the burgandy T-Tap 9. Connect the green wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes running lights. The 2 greens can be connected together. 10. Connect the blue wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes brake lights. The 2 blues can be connected together. 11. Take one of the red wires from a run/brake circuit and connect it to one of the black with white stripe wires coming from one of the LED boards using the supplied red butt connector. Connect the other run/brake circuit red wire to the remaining black with white stripe wire on the other LED board. 12. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the right side of the bike to the right turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 13. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the left side of the bike to the left turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 14. Plug the wires into the LED boards. If you hold the turn signal lens so that you are viewing the back of the LED board, position the connectors on the board at the 12 o’clock (top) position. The connector on the left is the positive (+) terminal. Connect the red wire to it. Connect the black wire to the remaining connector on the right side. 15. Check operation. LEDs should come on with running lights. LEDs will brighten when brake lights are applied. LEDs will shut off when the amber turn signal comes on. 16. Should you have any problems, please see the troubleshooting chart on our website.* * 17. Reassemble bike

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