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SUZUKI MOTORCYCLES Gsxr 600, Gsxr 750, Gsxr 1000 teak the lead

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 12-11-2010

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The launch of the sixth generation of Gsxr marked a shift in Suzuki’s emphasis on two fronts. One, the Gsxr 1000 now took the upper hand in the development stakes. Historically, the Gsxr 750 led the march-arriving first, gaining the most recent technology, absorbing the lion’s share of corporate pride-but by 2003 the Gsxr 1000 was in the lead. Two, the Gsxr 1000 represents another, more subtle shift for Suzuki engineering, in which the designers-the lucky guys who get to clothe these amazing machines-have more freedom of expression. With this generation, the designs turned edgier, sharper, more aggressive looking than ever. What’s more, the Gsxr 1000 K3 would be the proving ground for a host of changes brought to the Gsxr 600 and Gsxr 750 for 2004. In fact, nearly every upgrade to the smaller bikes appeared on the Gsxr 1000 a year before. But the real impetus for driving the Gsxr 1000 to the head of development and, indeed, shortening its development cycle was competition both on the track and in the showroom. For the track, it was understood that Superbike racing would revert to allowing 1000 cc four-cylinder bikes in place of the 750s that had been the limit since 1982. In 2002, Yoshimura and Mat Mladin barely lost the AMA Superbike crown to Nicky Hayden aboard the Honda RC5!. But it would be the RC’s swan song of competitiveness with the change to 1000 cc fours. To keep speeds in check, the AMA Superbike rules would require 1000 cc fours to have some additional limitations compared to the twins and triples. For example, “Cylinder heads may be ported and machined, but altering of valve angles will not be permitted; aftermarket valves, springs, retainers, and other valve-train components will be permitted; valves must be stock size and same basic material as original equipment; aftermarket camshafts will be permitted, but earn lift and resulting valve lift must be no greater than stock. “In addition, the “stock crankshaft must be retained, The only allowable modifications are balancing, polishing of bearing surfaces and attachment of accessory drives. Homologated transmission gear sets (one optional set of ratios per approved model) will be permitted. Optional sets will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor. Homologated fuel-injection throttle-body assemblies (one optional type per approved model) and aftermarket airboxes will be permitted. Modifications to throttle bodies will not be permitted. Optional throttle bodies will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor.” The thinking was simple: keep the liter bikes from sucking through massive throttle bodies, and the horsepower might not (and, it was hoped, would not) go through the roof. In preparation for racing, Suzuki moto wanted to make a host of small changes to the Gsxr 1000, but its motivation was also to keep the bike at the forefront of open-class street bikes. Suzuki engineers knew that Honda and Kawasaki were readying all-new models-the CBR 954 RR and the ZX 9 R had long since been vanquished-and rumor had it that Yamaha was ready with yet another push with the R1.It was the right time to make alterations to the Gsxr 1000. Heading the list was, as one might expect, a revised engine.

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SUZUKI Hayabusa, GSXR 1000, GSXR 750, GSXR 600 Sport Brake Lever INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 21-02-2012

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Before you install your new ASV brake lever, you MUST choose the correct brake light switch tab to install. You will find in the package with this lever one plastic bag with four smaller bags inside of it. One bag has two small phillips screws. The other three bags have small black aluminum blocks (light switch tabs) with labels on them. Part# BRC511-H is ONLY for HONDA motorcycles. Part# BRC511-STK is for all SUZUKI, TRIUMPH and 05-06 KAWASAKI ZX636R motorcycles ONLY. Part# BRC511-K is for all KAWASAKI motorcycles EXCEPT the 05-06 ZX636R . Choose the correct tab for your bike and install it onto the lever as shown in photo 2b using the two small Phillips head screws provided. It is recommended that you use locktite or another type of thread locking adhesive to make sure these screws do not come loose. Be sure to tighten these screws as tight as you can without stripping them. The brake stop / light tab is required for your ASV brake lever to work properly Carefully place the lever into the master cylinder while inserting the plunger rod into the barrel hole as shown in photo 4. Install the main pivot bolt, and tighten it until it is snug against the master cylinder. Do not over-tighten, as it could cause the lever to bind in the master cylinder

motorcycle Turn Signal Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Place motorcycle on solid, level ground and on center stand if equipped. 2. Remove your turn signal lens. Place it upside down and clean the lens interior with the supplied alcohol wipe. Allow to completely air dry. Note: the LEDs are mounted to the inside of the turn signal lens with the LEDs making direct contact with the lens. The supplied silicone is used to secure the LED board to the lens. It remains flexible but can be removed. Test fit the board in your lens prior to using silicone. 3. Using a small screwdriver, poke a small hole in the end of the tube of silicone. Place a dab of silicone on each of the 12 LEDs on the circuit board. CAUTION : Note the position of the metal pins on the back of the LED board, They must be located 90 degrees from where the holes are that secure the lens to the housing. See attached diagram. 4. Position the round circuit board over the inside of your turn signal lens with the LEDs facing down. Get the board as centered as possible. Allow the silicone to make contact with the inside of the lens and then push down and slightly rotate the board back and forth to allow the LEDs to make contact with the lens surface. Repeat other side. NOTE : the silicone will require 30 minutes in 70 degree weather to tack up. Full cure will occur within 24 hours. We suggest not riding for several hours if possible to allow the best adhesion. 5. You will need to access the following wires; running light (license plate can be used), brake lights, right turn and left turn. Disassemble the bike as needed to gain access to the wiring. Shop Tip: we have found that on the Yamaha Star Series and the Kawasaki Cruisers that installation is much easier when you remove the turn signal bar from the fender. On the Yamahas, there are 3 bolts holding the moustache in position. The wires will unplug from behind the license plate. On the Kawasakis, unplug the signals under the seat and bend the tabs under the fender to be able to remove the wires. 6. We have provided some tubing to slide over the wires so that when you re-install the bulb socket, our wires for the LED boards will not be pinched. This tube should be slid all the way into the turn signal housing. You may have to shorten the tubing for your installation. 7. You will need to run wires through the stem of the turn signal. You can see samples of how the various manufacturers signal housings come apart on our web site. Click on “Other Lighting Products” and then “Turn Signal Conversion Kits” and follow the link. We suggest placing the removed turn signal assembly on a towel on your work area. 7. You will need to leave 2″ of slack in the wires at the turn signal housing to allow for wire connection. 8. Reinstall the turn signal housing back on the motorcycle if removed. NOTE: both of the run/brake circuits must be used. You may shorten the wires only on the run/brake circuits as needed. Do not change the circuits under the heat shrink. T-Tap instructions. Lay the “donor” wire in the slot in the burgandy connector. Close and snap together with pliars. Strip some insulation off of the wire which will be tapping into the factory wire. Crimp one of the pink connectors on the bare wire and plug it into the burgandy T-Tap 9. Connect the green wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes running lights. The 2 greens can be connected together. 10. Connect the blue wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes brake lights. The 2 blues can be connected together. 11. Take one of the red wires from a run/brake circuit and connect it to one of the black with white stripe wires coming from one of the LED boards using the supplied red butt connector. Connect the other run/brake circuit red wire to the remaining black with white stripe wire on the other LED board. 12. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the right side of the bike to the right turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 13. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the left side of the bike to the left turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 14. Plug the wires into the LED boards. If you hold the turn signal lens so that you are viewing the back of the LED board, position the connectors on the board at the 12 o’clock (top) position. The connector on the left is the positive (+) terminal. Connect the red wire to it. Connect the black wire to the remaining connector on the right side. 15. Check operation. LEDs should come on with running lights. LEDs will brighten when brake lights are applied. LEDs will shut off when the amber turn signal comes on. 16. Should you have any problems, please see the troubleshooting chart on our website.* * 17. Reassemble bike

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YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL LIGHT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet. 6. Referring to photo (2) remove 2″ of the black tubing exposing the red and black wires on the LEDs. Locate the supplied brake/tail light dual function element (a red wire at one end with a red and orange wire at the other) and wire connectors. Cut all three wires on the dual element to 3″ long. Strip the end of the single red wire on the element and both of the red wires from the LEDs then connect them using one of the blue butt connectors. Connect the two black wires from the LEDs to any one of the black wires on the tail light or signals using one of the supplied splice connectors (place both black wires into one of the holes on the connector). Using the remaining splice connectors attach the red wire from the dual element to the yellow wire on the tail light and the orange wire to the blue wire on the tail light. Turn on the ignition and check that the LEDs are working both as tail and brake lights when the brakes are applied.

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Ducati SPORT TOURING HEADLIGHT UPGRADE INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the following fairing components per the instructions in the Ducati owners manual: • Instrument surrounds • Headlight fairing • Chin fairing (under headlight/air intake) • Right-side middle fairing (covers battery) 2. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer. Unthread the ring nut at the top of the speedometer cable and retract the cable downward about 4-6 inches. 3. Disconnect the headlight wiring from the headlight bulbs. Retract the rubber boots at the rear of the headlight assembly to gain access to the wire terminals. Note that the two ¼ inch terminals at the high- beam bulb have locking clips that should be depressed before pulling the terminal away from the bulb. 4. Unplug the parking light from the headlight body by grasping the wires and carefully pulling it out. 5. Remove the two rubber plugs covering the lower headlight mounting screw access holes beneath the air intake horn. 6. Using an 8mm hex socket inserted through the lower access holes remove the two hex-head bolts securing the bottom of the headlight to the frame. 7. Using the same socket wrench, remove the two 8mm hex-head bolts securing the top of the headlight assembly to the frame. 8. Remove the headlight assembly from the frame. 9. Remove the two rubber grommets and steel reducing sleeves from the frame at the top mounting locations for the headlight. Leave the lower pair in place; these will be re-used, as shown in Figure 6

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DETACHABLE QUARTER FAIRING AND DOCKING HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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Installation The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley- Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE If your motorcycle has directional lights mounted on the upper fork bracket they must be relocated to the bottom fork bracket. Some models have front directional lights equipped with three wires, the third black wire is a ground wire. Check to determine how many wires are connected to the front directional lights and follow the following procedure that applies. Ifdirectional lights are not mounted on the upper fork bracket proceed to “ASSEMBLING FAIRING”. Relocating Two Wire Directional Lights 1. Support motorcycle on a center stand such that front wheel is raised slightly off the ground. 2. Remove fork tube pinch screw from right side of lower bracket. 3. Cut wires connected to right directional light about 2 in. away from directional light body. 4. Remove fork tube pinch screw from right side of upper fork bracket. (This is the screw that secures the right directional light.) 5. Install right directional light on right side of lower fork bracket using pinch screw removed in step 4. Install pinch screw removed in step 2 into right side of upper bracket. Tighten both pinch screws to 30-35 ft-lbs. 6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 to relocate left directional light. NOTE Fork tubes may slide downward within fork brackets. If this occurs, front fork tube extension above front fork upper bracket will have to be readjusted according to appropriate Service Manual procedures. 7. Connect the right directional light as follows: Strip approx. 5/16 in. of insulation from the wires cut in step 3. 8. Crimp solderless connectors from kit on two wires coming from motorcycle. 9. Split one end of the 2-conductor polarized wire from kit back about 2 in. and strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wire ends. 10. Slide a piece of shrink tubing from kit over each of the wire ends stripped in step 9 and crimp the wires into the terminals installed in step 8. Make sure you connect the silver and copper colored wires to like colored wires. NOTE Polarized wire is used in this application to ensure correct wiring. One wire is silver, one is copper colored. Wire colors of spliced wire must match wire color of original directional wire leads. 11. Cut polarized wires to the length required for connection to the wires at the relocated directional light. Make certain you leave enough slack in wires to allow routing the harness along the fork tube. 12. Split remaining end of the 2-conductor polarized wire from kit back about 2 in. and strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wire ends. 13. Slide heat shrink tubes over the two wire end. 14. Strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wires connected to directional light and connect like colored wires at directional light with connectors from kit. 15. Slide heat shrink tubing over connectors installed in steps 10 and 14. Activate shrink tubing with heat gun or hair dryer.

YAMAHA V-MAX PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 25-11-2010

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PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR -. 1. Screw (x 2) EAU03003 Replacing the headlight bulb This motorcycle is equipped with a quartz bulb headlight. If the headlight bulb burns out, replace it as follows. 1. Remove the headlight unit by re- moving the screws. 2. Disconnect the headlight coupler, and then remove the headlight unit and bulb cover. 1. Headlight bulb holder 3. Remove the headlight bulb holder by turning it counterclockwise, and then remove the defective bulb. EWOOOl19 Headlight bulbs get very hot. Therefore, keep flammable products away from a lit headlight bulb, and do not touch the bulb until it has cooled down. 4. Place a new bulb into position, and then secure it with the bulb holder. 1. Do not touch this area. EC000105 Do not touch the glass part of the headlight bulb to keep it free from oil, otherwise the transparency of the glass, the luminosity of the bulb, and the bulb life will be adversely affected. Thoroughly clean off any dirt and fingerprints on the headlight bulb using a cloth moistened with alcohol or thinner. 5. Install the bulb cover, and then connect the coupler. 6. Install the headlight unit by install- ing the screws. 7. Have a Yamaha dealer adjust the headlight beam if necessary. 6-40 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR 1. Screw (x 2) 1. Tail/brake light bulb (x 2) EAU00855 Replacing a turn signal light bulb or the tail/brake light bulb 3. Insert a new bulb into the socket, push it in, and then turn it clock- wise until it stops. 1. Remove the lens by removing the screws. 2. Remove the defective bulb by pushing it in and turning it counter- clockwise. 1. Turn signal light bulb 4. Install the lens by installing the screws. EC000108 Do not overtighten the screws, oth- erwise the lens may break

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Harley-Davidson FXWG, FXST (all except FXSTS), FXDWG Light Bar INSTALLATION AND OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 20-03-2012

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1. Put a pair of male and female clamp halves together just above the lower triple-clamp. Squeeze the ends of the clamp together with a pair of pliers. Diagram A. 2. Have an assistant position the Light Bar Assembly so the lightbar bracket is to the outside of the clamp assembly. Make sure the wires from the Light Bar Assembly are below the lower triple clamp. Diagram B. 3. Insert a Screw through the clamp and Light Bar Assembly mounting bracket and thread on an Acorn Nut. 4. Hold the Light Bar Assembly in place in front of the lower triple clamp, assemble and attach the remaining clamps. 5. With all four clamp assemblies in place, tighten the clamping screws and nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm). Refer to the service manual to gain access to the wire harness inside the fuel tank tunnel or inside the frame backbone. Also, verify the appropriate color wires for hook-up of the passing lamps and turnsignals and running lights. Route the wires from the Light Bar Assembly, around the lower triple- clamp, and up to the frame backbone. Secure the wires so they cannot become pinched when turning the fork. A. The short black wires from the Light Bar Assembly connect to the wires powering the running lights. B. The short red wires from the Light Bar Assembly connect to the wires powering the turnsignals. C. The long blue wires from the Light Bar Assembly connect to the wire powering the headlight low beam. After the wires are connected, verify the operation of the passing lamps, running lights and turnsignals. Correct any connection problems before reassembling the motorcycle. Reinstall the fuel tank. Check all fasteners used during this installation for tightness

LED SHOW LIGHTING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIOINS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. The kit is supplied with 4 “cluster” lights that project a round flood lighting pattern and 4 “array” lights that have a narrow fan type pattern. Determine where you would like to mount the supplied lights, switch and wiring connections. You may want to hook up one of the lights with some long jumper wires connected to the battery and hold it in various places to see what will show off your bike best. The idea is to see the light reflected off your bike and not see the light fixture. 2. Mount the lights and switch using the supplied primer and 2-sided adhesive pad. Apply the primer to the backside of the lights and switch; let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from one side of the adhesive pad and apply. Apply the primer on the motorcycle where the lights and switch will be mounted and let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from the adhesive pad and mount the lights and switch. 3. Refer to the provided wiring diagram. The wiring is color-coded and connects in parallel. All of the black wires connect together through the BLACK wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Ground Wires). All of the colored wires connect together through the RED wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Power Wires). Connections may be soldered, crimped with solderless connectors, or twisted together. 4. Measure and cut the supplied 2-conductor black-jacketed wire to the lengths that are needed to connect the lights and switch. When routing the wire from any lights that you have mounted to the front make sure you have provided enough slack at the steering head to be able to turn the front wheel full left and full right without damaging the lights or wires. Also be sure the wire is at least æ” from any exhaust pipe. 5. Join each connection and cover with the supplied heat shrink tubing. NOTE; All wire connections must be insulated. Cut a piece of the provided heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the connection completely. 6. Connect one wire from the switch to the RED wire of the lights with one of the supplied blue butt connectors. Connect the second wire from the switch to one wire from the fuse holder with the other blue butt connector. Connect the second wire from the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery terminal using one of the supplied fork connectors. 7. Connect the BLACK wire of the lights using the other fork connector to a ground connection. (The negative (-) battery terminal or motorcycle frame.) 8. Secure all loose wires by using the supplied cable ties. Check the front wheel again to be sure there is enough wire slack for turning.

Street Magic Magical Wizards LED Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Always wear appropriate safety gear including safety glasses when soldering or performing any electrical work. It is highly recommended that safety glasses be worn throughout this installation process. Temperature of bike must be at least 60 degrees F. for tape to properly cure. Read all directions before starting project. 2. Turn fuel supply valve to off position before starting. Be sure bike is on level surface and secure and cool. 3. Important: Disconnect negative battery cable from battery; refer to owner’s manual. Failure do to so may result in electrical shock, injury, or fire. Secure negative battery cable away from positive side of battery and all other positive voltage sources on bike. 4. Select hidden locations to mount LED Accent Lights to provide best coverage. 5. Remove fuse from fuse holder. 6. Clean mounting locations on both motorcycle and accent lights with 3M promoter, promoter sponge will dry up quickly, place sponge in sealed plastic bag when not in use. Do not touch 3M promoter with bare fingers. 7. Place piece of double sided tape on accent light if needed, lights come pre-taped on back surface. Trim excess off sides with razor blade. Carefully remove backing from double sided tape and place light on selected mounting location. Press firmly and hold for 10 seconds. Repeat for all lights to be mounted on bike. 8. Route wires from accent lights back to central points near battery compartment under seat. Route wires such that they not interfere with normal operation of bike. Cut off any excess wires, strip back insulation as required. 9. Select several locations to secure wires to frame. Secure wires using tie wraps provided. 10. Join all black wires from LEDs into one Cage Clamp Connector #1. Join all Red wires from LEDs into Cage Clamp Con- nector #2, Join all Blue wires from LEDs into Cage Clamp Connector #3, Join all Green wires from LEDs into Cage Clamp Connector #4. 11. Connect Orange wire from the remote control wire harness to the Red Cage Clamp Connector, connect Blue wire from remote control wire harness to Blue Cage Clamp Connector, connect Green wire from remote control wire harness to Green Cage Clamp Connector. Connect White wire from remote control wire harness to Black Cage Clamp Connector. 12. Crimp spade connector on ends of remaining Red and Black wires from Remote Wiring Harness. Heat spade connector with heat gun so that it shrinks around wire. 13. Connect Red Wire to Positive (+) side of battery, and Black Wire to (-) Side of battery. Take necessary precautions when making connection and refer to bike’s owner’s manual. DO NOT allow any tools to touch both positive (+) side of battery and any metal surface on bike as it will cause a short which could result in serious injury and damage to the battery or other electrical circuits.

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