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HARLEY DAVIDSON XLH 1200cc BIG BORE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-03-2011

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Boring and Honing Procedures 1. Check again for burrs on cylinder gasket surfaces and remove burrs before performing Step 2. 2. Install original head and base gaskets, CYLINDER TORQUE PLATES (Part Number 33446-A) and TORQUE BOLTS (Part Number 33446-4). Tighten TORQUE BOLTS following tightening procedure given in the INSTALLATION, CYLINDER HEAD procedure in the ENGINE section of the Service Manual. NOTE Torque plates, properly tightened and installed with gaskets, simulate engine operating conditions. Measurements will vary as much as 0.001 inch without torque plate. 3. The cylinder must be bored with gaskets and torque plates attached. Bore the cylinder to 0.003 inch under the desired finish size. 1 WARNING CAUTION CAUTION 1 WARNING Kit Number 4. Hone the cylinder to its finished size (See Figure 1) using a 280 grit rigid hone followed by a 240 grit flexible ball hone. Honing must be done with torque plates attached. All honing must be done from the bottom (crankcase) end of the cylinder. Work for a 60 degree crosshatch pattern. 5. See Figure 1. After machining and honing, chamfer the bottom edge of the cylinder liner. the chamfer provides a beveled surface for easier installation of the cylinder over the piston rings. Break leading edge of liner to a flat surface. The bottom edge of the liner will be somewhat sharp after machining. This sharp edge could easily be damaged during installation of the cylinder. Piston Installation The 1200cc pistons have an arrow on the top of the piston. This arrow must face the front of the engine when piston is installed. There is no front cylinder piston or rear cylinder piston. New pistons can be installed in either cylinder. Check piston rings for proper side clearance and end gap (See XLH Service Manual). Be sure end gaps of adjacent rings are installed 90 degrees apart. Assembly Follow assembly and torque specifications given in the ENGINE section of the applicable Service Manual. Replace original gaskets, O-rings and seals with new components furnished in kit. NOTE Push rod covers on 1991 and later models are one-piece and the correct O-rings are as follows: Bottom – Part Number 17944-89 Upper – Part Number 11190 Engine Break In For the first 500 miles, to wear-in critical parts, observe these few simple driving rules: During the first 50 miles, keep the engine speed below 2500 RPM in any gear. Up to 500 miles, vary the engine speed, avoiding any steady speed for long distances. Engine speed up to 3000 RPM is permissible in any gear. Avoid fast starts at wide open throttle. Drive slowly until engine warms up. Avoid running the engine at extremely low RPM in higher gears. 2 of 3 -J00001 1200cc CYLINDER FINAL BORE SIZE AFTER HONING STANDARD BORE DIAMETER 3.4980 inch + 0.0002 inch Figure 1. Bottom Edge of Cylinder Liner Chamfer i04852 Break Edge to Flat Surface

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TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME MASTER CYLINDER AND CLUTCH BRACKET KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2011

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MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL See Figure 1. Master cylinders designed for dual disc (two caliper) operation have an 11/16 inch (17.5 mm) bore, while those that are designed for single disc (one caliper) operation have a 9/16 inch (14.3 mm) bore. The bore size is stamped (1) on the master cylinder assembly inboard of the handlebar clamp bracket. NOTE Do not use an 9/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on dual disc (two caliper) models or dual disc 11/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on single disc (one caliper) models. These master cylinder assemblies are not interchangeable. Using the wrong assembly can adversely affect braking efficiency or result in brake failure which could result in death or serious injury. D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) 1 is 01230 1. Bore stamp size location Figure 1. Verify Correct Master Cylinder Bore Size 1. Open bleeder nipple caps on front brake caliper. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valves, while placing free end in a suitable container. Open bleeder valves about 1/2-turn. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. Close bleeder valve. Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s), brake line and master cylinder bore are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00322a) 2. Remove bolt and two steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 3. See Figure 2. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket

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Kawasaki Mule 3010 Hood Rack Installation And Operations Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 28-04-2012

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1. Install the Seizmik Brush Guard. – Have a friend hold the brush guard (G) in place while you slide the 1.0″ dia. tube clamps (K) in place over the middle tube of the OEM bumper, as shown in Figure 1. Secure each one in place with one of the 3/8″ x 2.25″ bolts (N), two 3/8″ washers (Q), and one 3/8″ nylock nut (R). Repeat at the top tube of the OEM bumper using the 1.5″ dia. tube clamps (J), and 3/8″ x 1.75″ bolts (O). VEHICLE FRONT Figure 2. 2. Mounting brackets – Attach the two hood rack mounting brackets to the mounting pads of the brush guard, as shown in Figure 2. Use four of the 3/8″ x 1.0″ bolts (P), eight 3/8″ washers (Q), and four 3/8″ nylock nuts (R) per mounting pad. Snug down the fasteners but do not fully tighten them yet. 3 Figure 3. 3. Crush sleeves – Insert a crush sleeve (B) into each cantilever arm assembly (C & D), as shown in Figure 3. 4. Cantilever arms – Position the Driver side cantilever arm (C) on the mounting bracket, and insert a 3/8″ dia. pivot bolt (M), as shown in Figure 4. Add a 3/8″ washer (Q) and nylock nut (R) on the other side and snug down the assembly; leave the fasteners loose enough so the components can be repositioned for fitment. Repeat this step for the passenger side. Figure 4. 4 Figure 5. 5. Lock pins – Insert the 1/2″ lock pins (Y) into the tabs on each side of the Brush Guard, fixing the cantilever arms in place, as shown in Figure 5.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ADVANCED AUDIO HANDS FREE PHONE INTERFACE KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 12-04-2011

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The Hands Free interface module in this kit requires proximity to a BluetoothTM-enabled cellular phone in order to function. The phone must be a model that is compatible with the interface module (go to to view the compatibility chart), and must be paired to the interface module according to the instructions included with the cell phone. NOTE The cell phone MUST be available to the installer in the final steps of the installation (prior to re-installation of the outer fairing) in order to program and test the hands free functions. To avoid unnecessary delays, please take this into consideration when scheduling the installation. FLHT models will require prior installation of an Advanced Audio AM/ FM/ CD Radio Kit (Part Number 76412-06) and a Tour-Pak Mount AM/ FM Antenna Kit (Part Number 76317-06). FLHT, FLHX and FLTR models will require the prior installation of a Tour Pak®. See a Harley-Davidson dealer for avail- ability of color-matched King or Chopped Tour-Paks to match your vehicle, and additional items that may be required when mounting the Tour-Pak to your model. Unless one has already been fitted as part of another Advanced Audio kit installation: FLHTCU models will require the additional purchase of an Ultra Overlay Harness (Part Number 70164-06). FLHT, FLHTC and FLHX models will require the separate purchase of a Communication Switch Kit (Part Number 77173- 06). FLHX models will require the separate purchase of: •a fuel tank console (Part Number 61270-98A), •a console extension (Part Number 52447-96), •a rubber molding (71294-89), •a 1/4-20 clip nut (Part Number 7964), •a button-head screw (Part Number 3652), •a plastic wire clip (Part Number 10120), and •an adhesive-backed metal wire clip (Part Number 10103). FLTR models will require the separate purchase of: •a Console Pod Assembly (Part Number 77136-03), and •three pan-head screws (Part Number 2462). NOTE See a Harley-Davidson dealer for availability of optional decorative inserts for the Console Pod Assembly. ALL models will require the additional purchase of: •a Non-Ultra Overlay Harness (Part Number 70169-06), and EITHER : •a Premium Stereo Helmet Headset (Part Number 77147- 98) OR a Hand-Held CB Microphone Kit (Part Number 76312-98

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Kawasaki Mule Lift Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 04-05-2012

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Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.

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Kawasaki Sxi/ SXR Ignition twin cylinder Jet Ski ignition Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove electronics enclosure from its mounting location. 2. Unplug and remove the OEM ignition. 3. Set the programming switches on the T3 to your settings. 4. Install the T3 Ignition in the same location in the electronics enclosure. 5. Test the T3 Ignition. 6. Close the electronics enclosure cover plate and mount the module in the PWC. Installation Remove electronics enclosure from its Mounting Location 1. Using a 10mm socket remove the mounting bolts on each side of the electronics enclosure. 2. Remove the enclosure cover and set aside the screws, 2 mounting flanges, ‘O” ring, and enclosure top. Unplug and Remove the OEM Ignition 1. Using 10mm socket, remove bolts from each side of the OEM ignition. Lift out the ignition and unplug all connectors attached to the OEM ignition. Now remove the protective metal plate that was under the ignition and two 3/16″ thick washers under that plate. 2. On 2004 models and newer remove the wire harness for the two black connectors just unplugged from the OEM ignition. Trace each wire from each black connector back to in-line connectors and separate each of these connectors. Set the two harnesses aside. Install the T3 Ignition in the Electronics Enclosure 1. Install the T3 ignition into the mounting bracket supplied with your T3. Slide the end of the ignition module under the lip at the rear of the bracket an press the wire end of the ignition firmly into the bracket. Attach the keeper bracket using two 5mm bolts supplied. Place the ignition/bracket in the location where the OEM ignition and metal plate were removed. Secure the ignition in place with the supplied bolts

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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1. See Figure 2. Drain the brake fluid. a. Open bleeder nipple cap on front brake caliper. b. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valve, while placing free end in a suitable container. c. Open bleeder valve about 1/2-turn. d. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. e. Remove cover. f. Close bleeder valve. Remove brake line components carefully. Damage to seating surfaces can cause leakage. (00320a) 2. Remove bolt and 2 steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) is 01010 Figure 3. 5/32 in. (4 mm) Cardboard Insert 3. See Figure 3. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 4. Using T27 TORX® drive head, remove the 2 screws with flat washers securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the brake lever/master cylinder assembly and clamp from the handlebar. Wear safety glasses or goggles when removing or installing retaining rings. Retaining rings can slip from the pliers and could be propelled with enough force to cause serious eye injury. (00312a) 5. Remove retaining ring from pivot pin groove at bottom of master cylinder bracket. 6. Remove pivot pin and brake hand lever from master cylinder assembly. NOTE New master cylinder comes with all internal components preassembled. It is not necessary to remove the components from the bore of the old master cylinder. See Figure 9. Use denatured alcohol to clean clutch system components. Do not use mineral-based solvents (such as gasoline or paint thinner), which will deteriorate rubber parts even after assembly. Deterioration of these components can cause clutch failure, which could result in death or serious injury. (00296a) 7. With denatured alcohol, clean and inspect all parts that will be reused. Replace as necessary and wipe dry with a clean lint free cloth

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Kawasaki Prairie 360,650,700 ATV PLOW Plow Mounting Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Mount Installation Note: There are different hole locations on the plow mount depending on the bike model. For Prairie 360 use the middle hole locations (B), for Prairie 650 and Twin Peaks 700 use hole locations (A) on mounting plate, as shown in Figure 1. Figure 1 Hole Locations WARN INDUSTRIES PAGE 3 67954 Rev A3 To install the plow mount to the underside of the vehicle install the front two U-bolts PN 60869, and loosely tighten the 5/16″ nuts. Pull the plow mount back in the furthest position and then fully tighten, as shown in Figure 2. For the Kawasaki Prairie 360 use the second set of U-bolts PN 61262 and securely tighten around the frame in hole location (B) . For Kawasaki Prairie 650 and Suzuki Twin Peaks 700 drill a 3/8″ hole through the aluminum skid plate, using the plow mount as a template, as shown in Figure 3. Repeat the same process on the other side. After both holes are drilled attach the mounting plate with the second set of U-bolts PN 61262 and securely tighten around the frame in hole location (A) . Tighten all fasteners securely. Torque 5/16″ Bolts: 20ft. lb.

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Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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