which side of the belt pulley faces out on a 2007 roadstar

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BMW R850, R1100, R1150, R1200 Oilhead Maintenance Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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cold Engine and Drivetrain Procedures Check Alternator Belt Tools Parts T-handle hex – 4mm none Note: In most cases the alternator belt does not need to be checked any more. Early models should have the pulley and belt upgrade that came out a few years ago. Current recommendations are that the belt is installed and adjusted, then not disturbed until 36K when replacement is specified. 1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Check the belt for cracks or shredding. 4. Check the belt tension, quite tight, ~1/4″ deflection when you press on the center. Note: Paul Glaves suggests that proper belt tension is when you can twist the belt ~90 degrees, midway between the pulleys. If you can twist it more than 90 degrees, it is too loose. If you cannot twist it 90 degrees, then it is too tight. 5. Leave the cover off for the valve adjustment procedure on the next page. Change Alternator Belt Tools Parts T-handle hex – 4mm alternator belt socket – 13mm ratchet wrench – 13mm torque wrench 1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Loosen the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, that hold the alternator – one is on top and one is on each side, thus allowing the alternator to pivot down. 4. Remove the old belt. (Some bikes have a pipe that traps the belt – loosen it enough to get the old belt out and the new belt in) 5. Install the new belt being sure it is properly seated. 6. BMW calls for a tensioning torque of 5.9 ft.lb. (8 Nm) on the adjuster bolt on the left side of the bike. You have to get at this bolt from the alternator side and you may have to lift the tank. Alternatively, you can pry the alternator up with a large screwdriver to tension the belt. 7. Once the belt is under proper tension, tighten the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, to 15 ft.lb. (20 Nm). 8. Check the belt for proper tension (see above) and proper seating alignment

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Harley-Davidson EMERGENCY DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT KIT Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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1. Shift transmission to neutral. Before installation of the emergency belt, to avoid personal injury and/or vehicle damage, secure the motorcycle. Both stand and motorcycle must be on solid, level ground. Failure to follow instructions could result in death or serious injury. 2. See Figure 1. Remove spring clip (4) (if present) and loosen rear axle nut (1). 3. Loosen rear axle adjuster (3) (or adjuster nut, if so equipped) on each side of motorcycle, and move rear wheel to full forward position. 4. Remove the damaged/broken belt. 5. Inspect sprockets and belt guard (2) for damage and/or debris. Remove any debris. If sprockets and belt guard are not damaged, proceed with the installation. 6. Remove belt guard. 40171-97,40146-00 1 WARNING i06186 Figure 1. Axle 1. Axle nut 2. Belt guard 3. Adjuster 4. Spring clip 2 4 1 3 7. See Figure 2. Install feeder strip on emergency belt. 8. Feed strip around transmission sprocket in a counterclockwise direction over frame cross support. 9. See Figure 3. Interlock the “v” ends of the emergency belt. a. Insert a hex socket key in the fourth (4) and ninth (6) tooth holes. b. Place the splice block (2) over the seventh (5) tooth hole. c. Install a socket head set screw (3) in the seventh tooth. Tighten using another hex socket key. d. Move the block to the next tooth, and repeat installation steps (b) and (c) in each tooth until all 12 screws are installed. NOTE There are 16 screws included in this kit. However, only 12 screws will actually be installed in the belt. The remaining four screws are spares. 10. See Figure 4. Grasp the emergency belt at the mid point of the lower run between your thumb and forefinger and lift the belt up to take up any slack in the belt. Measure the distance that the belt deflects (2) under tension (1). When two pounds of tension is applied to the lower run of the emergency belt, the belt deflection should be within the following measurements

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Harley-Davidson BIG-TWIN 8mm BELT DRIVES (OPEN OR CLOSED) INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-04-2012

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INSTALLATION : The spacer behind the front pulley should be removed prior to installing the belt drive. This spacer may or may not be required to correctly align the pulleys. If a spacer is needed for alignment, various sizes are available from your local Primo Belt Drives dealer (part number PX-1 =package of 6 various sizes). With all supporting components installed, install front pulley, lubricate and reinstall the clutch hub. Loop the belt around the front and rear pulleys, and gently push into place. Use the washer and nut supplied with the kit on the front motor shaft, (always use an impact wrench on splined shaft motors) tighten to 80-100 foot pounds of torque. After installing and adjusting clutch, track the belt by turning the pulleys. If needed us a straight edge between the front and rear pulleys to check alignment. Improper alignment of the pulleys will result in reduced belt life. Spacing the motor pulley outward will cause the belt to track towards the outer primary cover. If spaced too far out the belt will rub on the inside of the clutch shell. ENCLOSED INSTALLATIONS: The same disassembly is required, with the exception of the clutch hub and inner primary. We recommend using our PC-1000-Acomplete clutch assembly. Loop the belt around both pulleys to insure that you have the proper belt for your pulleys, then gently push the unit into place. Use the washer and nut supplied with the kit on the motor shaft. Torque the motor nut to 80-100 foot pounds . Adjust the clutch & check belt / pulley alignment. Before installing the primary cover be sure that everything inside clears both the outer and inner covers. In some cases a small amount of metal may need to be removed from one or more of the bosses on the inner or outer primary covers

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BMW Poly-V Belt – R 1100 Models

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Information: In an effort to reduce service volume, a maintenance-free ribbed Poly-V belt was adopted on all R1100 models from engine number 38946130 onwards (09/94 production onwards). This belt does not need to be retentioned (even at the 600 mile service). The old belt required replacement every 24,000 miles. The new style belt is to be replaced every 36,000 miles. Use the same torque procedure as the old belt. Replacement of an old style belt with the new maintenance free belt requires the use of the new parts below: Parts Kit: 12 31 1 342 086 (kit consists of the following) In addition to the Poly-V belt, the following parts were also changed: 1. Top pulley new: steel old: Aluminum 2. Bottom pulley new no spot welds: old: steel w/three spot welds on front 3. Belt new: Ribbed, printing on belt (1342059 Fa. Dayco) or (1341779 Fa. Conti) Slight squeaking may be heard for a short time after a cold start when temperature is below 50°F. The belt should reach it’s correct operating tension soon after the start up. The belt only needs retentioned if the slight squeaking does not stop after warm up.

2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

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1937-1984 Big Twins BRUTE II EXTREME BELT DRIVES INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-10-2010

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Remove the outer primary cover. Remove the front pulley, chain, compensator & chain adjuster Remove oil lines to primary and plug or clamp to prevent leakage. Cut the chain oiler hose 3 inches from the oil pump and permanently plug. All belts must be run dry without lubrication of any kind. Therefore, remove all oil from inside the primary covers. The spacer behind the front pulley should be removed prior to installing the belt drive. This spacer may or may not be required to correctly align the pulleys. If a spacer is needed for alignment, various sizes are available from your local Primo Belt Drives dealer (part number PX-1 =package of 6 various sizes). Install the front pulley supplied in the kit. Loop the belt around both pulleys to insure that you have the proper belt for your pulleys, then gently push the unit into place. Use the supplied washer & nut on the motor shaft. Torque the motor nut to 80-100 foot pounds. If installing a PC-1000-Aremove the clutch hub & clutch basket. On tapered shaft models check the fit on the shaft & the fit of the keyway in the hub. Install the key in the mainshaft, making sure it is firmly seated (use of super glue or threadlock in the keyway is helpful to keep the key from sliding out of the keyway during clutch installation). Tighten the clutch hub nut(left-hand thread) to 60-90 foot pounds. 1 After installing and adjusting clutch, track the belt by turning the pulleys. If needed use a straight edge between the front and rear pulleys to check alignment. Improper alignment of the pulleys will result in reduced belt life. Spacing the motor pulley outward will cause the belt to track towards the outer primary cover. If spaced too far out the belt will rub on the inside of the clutch shell. Before installing the primary cover be sure that everything inside clears both the outer and inner covers. In some cases a small amount of metal may need to be removed from one or more of the bosses on the inner or outer primary cover.

2004 King And CM50 water pump drive belt And pulley alignment & inspection

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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It is important to inspect three things on the water pump drive pulley and belt. Inspect 1. That the belt and pulleys are in proper alignment and that the belt is not rubbing on flywheel or edges of the pulleys 2. That the pulleys are not cracked 3. That the water pump impeller pulley fastener is tight and has adequate high strength thread lock agent applied. Below is the proper orientation of the water pump drive pulley, cover, and spacers.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL CHROME LOWER BELT GUARD INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 13-04-2011

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REMOVING STOCK PLASTIC LOWER BELT GUARD 1. See Figure 1. Remove the hex head bolt (2), washer (3), acorn nut (5), hex head screw (4) and acorn bolt (8) attaching plastic belt guard to rear fork. 2. Remove the plastic belt guard. Save fasteners (2), and (4), washer (3), acorn nut (5) and acorn bolt (8) for installing new chrome belt guard. INSTALLING CHROME LOWER BELT GUARD 1. See Figure 2. Position the new chrome belt guard from kit over belt. Align the holes in guard with mounting lugs on rear fork. Install acorn bolt (9) through mounting lug and fasten to belt guard. Finger tighten only. 2. Install screw (4) with washer (5, from kit) through belt guard and fasten to threaded mounting lug. Position the guard for adequate clearance and finger tighten screw. 3. At the upper belt guard, install the original forward hex bolt (2) and original washer (3) through the upper guard (1), then through the upper hole in chrome belt guard and through mounting lug on rear fork. Secure with original acorn nut. 4. Tighten all hardware to 110 in-lbs (12.4 Nm)

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SECONDARY BELT EMERGENCY KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-02-2011

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The 40101-80 kit, with a 126 tooth belt, fits: •1980-1986 FXB and 1984-1986 FXWG models This kit may also be used on 1989-1992 international Softail models with a 127 tooth belt. The 40171-97 kit, with a 130 tooth belt, fits: •1995 and later domestic Softail models •1994 and later international Softail models •1994 and later international Dyna models The 40109-86 kit, with a 132 tooth belt, fits •1986-1992 and 1994 domestic Softail models •1989-1993 international FLT and FXR models This kit may also be used on the following models with 133 tooth belts: •1991 and later domestic Dyna models •1991-1992 international Dyna models •1994-1995 international FLT models The 40100-85 kit, with a 136 tooth belt, fits: •1985-1994 domestic FXR models •1985-1996 domestic FLT models •1996 international FLT models The 40112-97 kit, with a 139 tooth belt fits •1997 FLT models Installation 1. Put transmission in ‘Neutral’. 2. Loosen rear axle nut. Loosen rear axle adjuster nut on each side of motorcycle, and move rear wheel to full forward position. 3. Remove the damaged/broken belt. 4. Inspect sprockets and belt guard for damage and/or debris. Remove any debris. If sprockets and belt guard are not damaged, proceed with the installation. 5. See Figure 1. Remove belt guard. 6. See Figure 2. Install feeder strip on emergency belt. Feed strip around transmission sprocket in a counterclockwise direction over frame cross support.

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Honda GL1000 Timing Belts Removal / Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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Turn engine as described above until the T-1 mark aligns with engine block marks (it looks a little ‘out’ on the photo, it’s the angle). AND (this is important) the pulley marks align with the marks on the engine cover like here on LEFT side (seen from sitting on bike … remember). and RIGHT side. Mark this position on the central pulley and engine block. Now release the tensioner bolts. (*) And remove the belt. (*) (*) When you do that the right pulley (photo-left) will ‘wander/turn’ out of position when you remove the belt, as it is ‘riding’ on cam ‘slope’ (which is under the influence of the valve springs). Don’t worry. One thing you can do to calm your nerves and keep it in position: put the new belt loosely over the pulley and holding the pulley in the CORRECT POSITION (marks aligned) ‘strip’ a spanner to the frame. Do not use the spanner to turn the pulley. Use your hands … then ‘lock’ it with the spanner. (Make absolutely sure you do not turn (release/loosen) the bolt). And, here’s a nifty trick posted by Mooseheadm5 in another thread: “..one thing that made it super easy (and 3 reduced the anxiety level quite a bit) was that I loosened the tappet adjusters all the way [...snip...] you do not have to fight the valve springs much, plus the cams do not want to snap back or forward so you do not necessarily need to use Octane’s zip-tied wrench trick.” – Thanks, Moosehead . Release left tensioner bolts . Remove belt. Put on new belt. Check the tensioners or ‘tension rollers’. You may think they are ‘fine’: they ‘roll’ and don’t make funny sounds? You won’t know until you’ve had a set of new rollers in your hands. They should be real ‘tight’ as a set of new roller bearings … which I think they are, in fact. If they appear ‘dry’ or make any sounds; renew them and get rid of that high pitched whining sound associated with ‘dry’ rollers. This is how they go on left side (remember…photo-right). And the spring gets attached . … Pulleys in correct position (crank pulley and cam pulley) . … Left belt tight at the bottom … Tension roller loosely attached (let the spring do the tension). (On photo it is not on yet … ooops.

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