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HARLEY DAVIDSON FXSTD DETACHABLE WINDSHIELD AND DOCKING HARDWARE KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 13-03-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE Use the Docking Hardware Kit to assemble two upper and two lower clamps. See the Service Parts illustration. The upper clamps use a mounting pin (4) and the lower clamps use a button head screw (5) to fasten the windshield mounting bushing. 1. Assemble the windshield docking hardware as follows: a. Install a larger chrome washer (6) and bushing (7) onto a button head screw (5). Thread the screw into the boss on one of the clamps (1), and tighten finger tight. Repeat for a second lower clamp. b. Install a larger chrome washer (6) and bushing (7) onto a mounting pin (4). Thread the pin into the boss on one of the clamps (1), and tighten finger tight. Repeat for a second lower clamp. 2 1 3 4 4 5 is 02187 1. Upper clamp 2. Lower clamp 3. Fork tubes 4.1/8 inch (3 mm) approximately 5.3.0 inch (76 mm) Figure 1. Installing Clamps NOTE Place shop rags on the headlamp, front fender and front of the fuel tank to prevent scratches to these components. Be sure the windshield assembly does not contact chrome or painted parts. Contact will cause scratches to chrome or painted parts. 2. See Figure 1. Install a lower clamp onto a fork tube using a smaller chrome washer and lock nut from the kit. Adjust so the clamp is approximately 1/8 inch (3 mm) from the top of the lower triple clamp, then finger tighten the lock nut. Repeat with the second lower clamp and fork tube. NOTE Keep front wheel straight to prevent brackets from scratching fuel tanks. See Figure 1. Install the clamps on the fork tubes so the bushing center lines are 3 inches (76 mm) apart. 3. Install an upper clamp onto a fork tube using a smaller chrome washer and lock nut from the kit. Adjust so the clamp is approximately 1/8 inch (3 mm) from the bottom of the upper triple clamp. Ensure that the center lines of the upper and lower bushings are 3 inches (76 mm) apart, then finger tighten the lock nut. Repeat with the second upper clamp and fork tube

Laminar LaMini Fairing Mounting Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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Mounting Instructions for the Laminar LaMini Fairing The Laminar LaMini Fairing is designed to mount onto motorcycles having up to 7 inch round headlights and traditional instruments. It is attached to the motorcycle with four clamps, two on each fork tube between the triple clamps. If you plan to paint the fairing be sure to fit it first. Make sure that the front turn signals do not obstruct installation of the
LaMini Fairing. If the turn signals are located between the triple clamps relocating or replacing the turn signals may be desired. When fitting the fairing the greatest potential for damage to your motorcycle lies with the clamps or the back ends of the fairing touching the gas tank when the steering is turned to lock. Monitor this possibility each time the handlebars are turned until installation is completed, padding the front of the tank with some towels is a good idea. Let’s get started 1) Attach the shield to the rear side of the fairing with rubber washers between them, using nylon fasteners. Wrap two clamp gaskets around each fork tube. Unscrew the clamps and slip two of each around each fork leg. The worm screws should be at rear of the fork tube. Slip a clamp gasket between each clamp and fork and finger tighten the clamps. The ž”x ū ” bolts should be sticking straight out to the sides. Center the clamps spaced 3 inches apart between the triple clamps. Carefully turn the handlebars to lock in each direction to assure that the clamps do not touch any other parts of the motorcycle. If the clamp worm gears interfere the clamps may be reversed with the worms at the front side of the forks but this makes tightening or adjusting them with the fairing mounted very difficult. 2) Test fit the fairing (shown upside down in the top photo) over the headlight and in front of the instruments. Try to leave a spacing of ž inch everywhere. If required the fairing may be trimmed to match the gap to the headlight. Do the sides of the fairing cover the ž”x ū ” bolts so that
holes to be drilled through the fairing will securely receive the bolts? Looking from the side of the fairing and with the fairing located with the center above the headlight move the rear of the fairing up and down to determine the best fit to the motorcycles lines. When

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Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Reverse Gear Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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2.1 Obtain a small tube of Loctite® #262 (red) for use later. 2.2 Drain the transmission oil. 2.3 Remove the clutch adjustment cover (left side). 2.4 Remove rear exhaust header pipe (cross over exhaust pipe). 2.5 Remove the muffler support bracket. 2.6 Remove the clutch release cover (right side). 2.7 Remove clutch push rod and oil slinger. To be disassembled and modified later. 2.8 Remove the two nuts from the main (rear) and counter (front) transmission shafts. 2.9 Remove the transmission bearing housing (puller available from Champion Sidecars). To be replaced with new reverse gear transmission bearing housing (Trap Door). 2.10 Cover the exposed gears in the transmission with a cloth in preparation to cut the shifter fork shaft. 3 Install New Main and Countershaft Gears NOTE: Gears and Tapered Split Rings are factory matched sets. Do not mix!. 3.1 Locate the shifter fork rod, mark fork rod flush at transmission case and pull out 1/4″. Figure 1 Figure 2. Exposed Shoulders Mark shifter fork rod flush with case Remove Spacers Vehicle Transmission Counter Shaft Main Shaft Front of Motorcycle Figure 1
Reverse Gear Installation Instructions For EVO / 5 Speed and Twin Cam Harley-Davidson® Motorcycle Page 3 of 6 Revision 7 © 2007 Champion Motorcycle Accessories International, Inc. dba Champion Sidecars 11841 Monarch Street Garden Grove, CA 92841 (800) 875-0949 (714) 847-0949 www.championsidecars.com www.championtrikes.com Figure 6 CAUTION: Do not pull the shifter fork rod out of the transmission more than 1/4″. If you pull the shifter fork rod out too far, it will be difficult to realign it with the internal shifter fork. 3.2 Cut the shaft at the mark and push it back in. The shaft end MUST NOT stick out of the transmission case. If the shaft is in deeper, fill the hole with silicone to prevent the shaft from moving in and out. NOTE: Shifter fork is made of non-tempered metal and may be cut with a hacksaw or Dremel® cutting tool. 3.3 Important: Remove stock spacers from main and counter shafts. Spray with silicon remover (Brake-Clean) then, using supplied cleaning pad, clean shafts, new counter and main shaft gears and tapered lock rings (inside and outside) Figure 1 3.4 With motorcycle in neutral, pull both the shafts out and simultaneously push the OEM outermost gears in until seated completely to expose the shoulders of both shafts. The countershaft shoulder should be flush with the gear face. For the main shaft the gear would “hang over” the shoulder a small bit. Figure 2 3.5 Apply supplied Champion Super-Lock retaining compound to the inside and outside surfaces of the large gear tapered split ring, to the inside of the new countershaft gear (large gear) and to the transmission countershaft (the forward most shaft). 3.6 Install new countershaft gear to the transmission countershaft. Insert tapered split ring (tapered end first) into the countershaft gear. Install ring seat tool and spring to counter shaft and new countershaft gear. Torque ring seat tool to 40 ft-lb’s. Figures 3 and 4

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2007 Ural Models Gear Up Patrol Tourist Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Font Brake Control Lever Clutch control lever: When the clutch lever is squeezed, the engine is disengaged from the gearbox. When the lever is released, the engine and gearbox are engaged. WARNING: MAKE SURE FINGERS ARE NOT POSITIONED BETWEEN HAND CONTROL LEVERS AND HANDLEBAR GRIPS OR OPERATION OF VEHICLE COULD BE IMPAIRED . WARNING: B EFORE STARTING ENGINE , ALWAYS SHIFT TRANSMISSION TO NEUTRAL TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL MOVEMENT WHICH COULD CAUSE POSSIBLE DAMAGE TO MOTORCYCLE AND PERSONAL INJURY . Caution: Always engage the clutch release lever when shifting. Serious internal damage may result to the transmission if the clutch release lever is not engaged. Front brake control lever: When the lever is squeezed, the front wheel brake is actuated. The front brake should be used together with rear brake. When the brake lever is squeezed, the stop signal lights are switched on. 19 Kickstart lever : Designed to start the engine. Upon kicking the lever the crankshaft is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Gear shift lever: This is a heal shift type of lever. To shift up from a low gear to a high gear the rear arm(heal shift) is pressed. To shift down from a high gear to a low gear the from arm is depressed. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, it is much easier to shift up using the heal shift, and to shift down using the toe shift with the ball of your foot. The neutral gear is between the 1st and 2nd gears. It is important to shift smoothly with a constant force, and not to kick the gear shift pedal. Serious damage may result to the shifting mechanism if the gear shift pedal is kicked, rather than pressed. NOTE: The neutral lamp will illuminate when the transmission is in neutral. (see “Starting the Engine”). Gear Shift Foot Pedal Kick Lever 20 Parking Brake Sidecar Drive Lever Rear Brake Pedal Parking Brake: Used to hold the bike when parked. To engage, press the rear brake pedal, push down and twist the parking brake lever counter clockwise. Sidecar drive engagement lever: Used to engage the drive axle to the sidecar wheel on the Patrol and Gear Up model motorcycles. WARNING: Never engage sidecar drive on concrete or hard surface. Severe damage to drivetrain will result if the sidecar drive is engaged on pavement. Rear brake lever: Actuates the rear brakes on both the motorcycle and sidecar. WARNING: DO NOT APPLY EITHER BRAKE STRONGLY ENOUGH TO LOCK THE WHEELS BECAUSE THIS MAY CAUSE POSSIBLE LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE MOTORCYCLE . ALWAYS USE BOTH BRAKES . NEVER STOP WITH FRONT OR REAR BRAKE ONLY . WARNING: AN IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED REAR BRAKE PEDAL COULD INTERFERE WITH PROPER REAR BRAKE OPERATION RESULTING IN POOR BRAKE ACTION

Moto Guzzi Sport 1100i Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Moto Guzzi) by admin on 29-11-2010

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General features Identification data Instruments and controls Riding your motorcycle Break-in Maintenance and adjustments Wheel removal Service schedule Cleaning – Storing Cleaning the windscreen Lubrication Valve gear WEBER injectionignition system (I.A.W.) Electrical equipment Wiring diagram Illustrations Lubrication Pressure fed by gear pump. Oil filters: wire mesh inside sump and replaceable cartridge filter outside sump. Normal lubrication pressure 3.8Ö 4.2 [5] kg/cm2, pressure valve, thermostat and cooler. Low oil pressure sensor (electrical) on crankcase. Generator/Alternator On front of crankshaft (1 4V – 25A). Ignition “WEBER MARELLI” electronic digital induced discharge, with high efficiency coil. Spark plugs: Spark plug gap: 0,7 mm. SPORT 1100 DAYTONA R NGK BPR 6 ESI NGK DR9 E IMS Starting Electric starter (12V-1,2 kW) with solenoid engagement. Ring gear bolted on flywheel. Starter button (START) on right of handlebars. Driveline data Clutch Twin driven plates, dry type, on flywheel. Hand controlled by lever on left of handlebars. Primary drive By gears. Ratio: 1 to 1.3529 (tooth ratio 17/23). Gearbox 5-speed, with constantly meshed gears with front dog clutch. Incorporated cush drive. Pedal operated on the left side of the motorcycle. Gear ratios: Low gear = 1 to 1,812 (tooth ratio 16/29) 2nd gear = 1 to 1,250 (tooth ratio 20/25) 3rd gear = 1 to 1 (tooth ratio 23/23) 4th gear = 1 to 0,833 (tooth ratio 24/20) 5th gear = 1 to 0,730 (tooth ratio 26/19) Ratio: 1:4,125 (tooth ratio 8/33) Overall gear ratios (Engine-wheel): Low gear = 1 to 10,1150 2nd gear = 1 to 6,9761 3rd gear = I to 5,5809 4th gear = 1 to 4,6507 5th gear = 1 to 4,0783 Frame Rectangular section single-beam in NiCrMo steel. Semisupporting engine base. Suspensions Front: White Power upside-down hydraulic telescopic fork with individually adjustable rebound and compression; Rear: steel swing arm with oval cross section. Single shock absorber White Power with separate adjustment of spring preload and of hydraulic rebound and compression damping. Wheels Light alloy castings with 3 hollow spokes (rear wheel with cush drive unit). Rim sizes: – front: 3,50x 17 MT H2 – rear: 4,50×17 MT H2 Tires -front: 120/70 ZR 17 – rear: 160/70 ZR 17 [160/60 ZR 17] Type: Tubeless Front: two Brembo drilled semi-floating disc brakes in stainless steel for SPORT I 100; [two Brembo drilled floating discs, Racing type for DAYTONA RS] with fixed 4 differential piston calipers. Adjustable manual control lever on the right side of the handle-bar; – disc 320 mm;

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Kawasaki Bar Riser Kit Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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our handlebars back to the current position. Witha 19mmwrench, loosen the bar clamp locknuts on the bottom side of the upper triple clamp. (Figure 1) Witha 10mmsocket, remove the 4 bolts that hold on the upper handlebar clamps as shown in (Figure 2) Lift the handlebars up and out of the lower bar cradle/clamps. You can strap or zip-tie them out of the way for now. Remove the bar clamp locknuts and washers that you loosened instep 2. Pull the lower handlebar clamps up and out of the triple clamp. (Figure 3) Remove the rubber sleeve and washer from the original lower handlebar clamps. (Figure 4) Insert the rubber sleeves and washers into the upper triple clamp. (Figure 5) Insert the new handlebar clamps in the upper triple clamp. The bolts will go through the rubber sleeve and washer as shown. (Figure 6) Install a rubber sleeve and washer on the bottom side of each handlebar clamp bolt. Thread the lock nuts onto the handlebar clamp bolt. (Figure 7) Do not tighten yet. Re-install handlebars in lower bar cradle/clamps. Make sure they are in the same position that you marked in step 1. Install upper handlebar clamps. Tighten mounting bolts to motorcycle manufacturer’sspecifiedtorque. Now torque down the locknuts you installed instep 9. Tighten the locknuts to the motocycle manufacturer’sspecifiedtorque.

2001-2002 GL1800 A ABS Speed Sensor Wire Clamp Location INSPECTION/ REPAIR PROCEDURES

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. If the VIN is within the preceeding range, inspect the front ABS speed sensor wire clamp according to the following illustrations. 2001-2002 GL1800A ABS Speed Sensor Wire Clamp Location INCORRECT Installation CORRECT Installation Service Bulletin American Honda Motor Co., Inc. 2001-2002 GL1800 ABS Speed Sensor Wire Clamp Location 0112 GL1800 #9*GL1800 #9*0112*2001-2002 GL1800 ABS Speed Sensor Wire Clamp Location*GL1800, ABS Speed Sensor Wire Clamp Location*Motorcycle*1800 2 of 2 ©2001 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved GL1800 #9 DECEMBER 2001 IDENTIFICATION There is no identification mark associated with this Service Bulletin. PARTS INFORMATION There is no parts information associated with this Service Bulletin. WARRANTY INFORMATION The normal warranty claim submission requirements apply. Submit one warranty claim per VIN with the following information only: Inspected and REPAIRED Template: GL#9 Hours: 0.2 hours Parts: None If the clamp is installed correctly on top of the speed sensor, no further action is necessary. 3. If the clamp is installed incorrectly under the speed sensor, remove and reinstall the clamp and speed sensor correctly. Torque the bolts,. Torque: 12 N • m (1.2 kgf • m, 9 lbf • ft) If the speed sensor wire clamp for the front ABS speed sensor is installed incorrectly, the ABS speed sensor air gap may be out of specification. This does not affect ABS speed sensor operation, but the clamp should be installed correctly. Inspect and repair all affected units using the Inspection/Repair procedures listed below. Inspect all unsold units and customer units brought in for service. AFFECTED UNITS 2001-2002 GL1800A units as follows: MODEL 2001 GL1800A All units 2002 GL1800A 1HFSC474*2A100001 – 1HFSC474*2A101643 * = denotes check digit Any unit in the above VIN range may be affected and should be inspected according to the procedures in this Service Bulletin. All units outside of the above VIN range do not require inspection. CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION There is no customer notification associated with this Service Bulletin.

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON BIG TWINS COMPUFIRE 1084 GEAR SETS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 26-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat and disconnect the cables at the battery. Remove the ground cable first and then the positive (+) cable. 2. Drain the oil in the outer primary case and remove the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual. 3. Bend the tab on the jackshaft bolt away from the bolt head. Remove the starter pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and washer. 4. Remove the clutch assembly using the procedure found in the Factory Shop manual. 5. Remove the original equipment ring gear from the clutch basket by drilling out the rivets with a 5/16-inch drill bit. Drill through the rivet head and tap the ring gear off the clutch basket using a hammer. 6. Drill out the six holes in the clutch basket with the 5/16-inch drill bit. RING AND STARTER PINION GEAR INSTALLATION 1. Attach the new 84-tooth ring gear to the clutch basket using the six 5/16×24 socket head cap screws supplied. NOTE… The bevel side of the ring gear (identified by the three dots) faces away from the starter motor. Torque the socket head cap screws to 29 ft lbs. 2. Assemble and install the primary drive assembly following the instructions in the factory Shop manual. 3. Install the new 10-tooth pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and thrust washer. Torque the jackshaft bolt to 7 – 9 ft lbs. Bend the lock tab on the lock plate against a flat on the jackshaft bolt head. 4. Measure and adjust the air gap between the ring gear and the pinion gear. See Fig-1 . The correct gap is .075 – .125 inch. If the gap is larger than .125 inch, use the supplied shim washers inside the jackshaft coupler. See Fig-2 . If the air gap is smaller than .075 inch, the jackshaft must be shortened by removing material from the splined end of the shaft. See Fig-3 . 5. Install the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual and refill the primary case with the proper amount of primary oil. 6. Re-install the battery cables in the reverse order they were removed. Re-install the seat

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COMPUFIRE 1084 GEAR SETS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 26-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat and disconnect the cables at the battery. Remove the ground cable first and then the positive (+) cable. 2. Drain the oil in the outer primary case and remove the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual. 3. Bend the tab on the jackshaft bolt away from the bolt head. Remove the starter pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and washer. 4. Remove the clutch assembly using the procedure found in the Factory Shop manual. 5. Remove the original equipment ring gear from the clutch basket by drilling out the rivets with a 5/16-inch drill bit. Drill through the rivet head and tap the ring gear off the clutch basket using a hammer. 6. Drill out the six holes in the clutch basket with the 5/16-inch drill bit. RING AND STARTER PINION GEAR INSTALLATION 1. Attach the new 84-tooth ring gear to the clutch basket using the six 5/16×24 socket head cap screws supplied. NOTE… The bevel side of the ring gear (identified by the three dots) faces away from the starter motor. Torque the socket head cap screws to 29 ft lbs. 2. Assemble and install the primary drive assembly following the instructions in the factory Shop manual. 3. Install the new 10-tooth pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and thrust washer. Torque the jackshaft bolt to 7 – 9 ft lbs. Bend the lock tab on the lock plate against a flat on the jackshaft bolt head. 4. Measure and adjust the air gap between the ring gear and the pinion gear. See Fig-1 . The correct gap is .075 – .125 inch. If the gap is larger than .125 inch, use the supplied shim washers inside the jackshaft coupler. See Fig-2 . If the air gap is smaller than .075 inch, the jackshaft must be shortened by removing material from the splined end of the shaft. See Fig-3 . 5. Install the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual and refill the primary case with the proper amount of primary oil. 6. Re-install the battery cables in the reverse order they were removed. Re-install the seat

HARLEY DAVIDSON RONT & REAR HEADPIPE AND HEATSHIELDS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Remove both left and right saddlebags and set them aside. 2. Remove the right side floorboard from the frame and set aside. 3. Unplug the O 2 sensors on front and rear headpipes from motorcycle wire harnesses. 4. Remove the stock exhaust system. It may be necessary to lubricate the slip joints of the exhaust with WD-40 or similar lubricant to aid in disassembly. The stock muffler slide hangers may be left in place in the rubber mounts for later reinstallation of the mufflers. 5. Remove the stock rear headpipe support-mounting bracket by removing the two starter mounting bolts, this bracket will not be reused. Note: Use caution when removing the bolts so that any tools used do not come in contact with the positive post on the starter. Install the Cobra supplied, exhaust support-mounting bracket, see Figure 1. 6. Remove the stock exhaust flanges, retaining rings and O 2 sensors from the stock headpipes and headpipe support clamp from the front headpipe. Remove the new front headpipe from packaging and install the stock flange, retaining rings and O 2 sensor on to the pipe. 7. On the front headpipe slide the stock headpipe support clamp over it. Install the front headpipe on the motorcycle using the stock flange nuts to secure it to the exhaust port studs, but do not tighten at this time. Slide the headpipe support clamp forward on the headpipe and over the stock exhaust mount on the right side engine case, make sure the clamp’s rectangular hole is on top and the flat part of the clamp is downward, see Figure 2. Install the carriage bolt and nut to secure the tube clamp but do not tighten at this time. 8. Reinstall the muffler onto the front headpipe using one muffler slip clamp. Reinsert two stock 5/16- inch bolts into rear muffler mount, tighten to factory torque specs, do not tighten front muffler slip clamp at this time. (NOTE: On some models equipped with saddlebags the bag rail may need to be adjusted outward to allow proper clearance between muffler body and swing arm / axle nut.) 9. Tighten front headpipe flange nuts then headpipe support clamp to factory torque specifications. 10. Remove front heatshield and hose clamps from packaging. Unscrew the hose clamps and feed the tail end of the clamps through the clips on the inside of the heatshield from the bottom, so the screws are facing toward the bottom and accessible with a screw driver once the heatshield is installed. Install the heatshield over the front headpipe. (Hint: Spread the hose clamps apart slightly to make it easier to slide them over the muffler assembly and headpipes.) Align heatshield with headpipe and snug clamps but do not tighten .