Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 14-11-2010
Dry Weight 122 lbs 91 lbs 81 lbs 210 lbs 206 lbs 210 lbs Engine Cobra 65cc 2-stroke Cobra 50cc 2-stroke Cobra 50cc 2-stroke Cobra 70cc 2-stroke Cobra 50cc 2-stroke Cobra 80cc 2-stroke Bore x Stroke 44.5mm x 41.7mm 39mm x 41.7mm 39mm x 41.7mm 44.5mm x 44.7mm 39mm x 41.7mm 47.6 mm x 44.7mm Induction Case Reed V-Force® Reed Valve- 24mm Mikuni carb Case Reed Carbon Pedal 19mm carb Case Reed Carbon Pedal 14mm carb Case Reed V-Force® Reed Valve- 24mm Mikuni carb Case Reed Carbon Pedal 21mm carb Case Reed V-Force® Reed Valve- 24mm Mikuni carb Cooling Water cooled Cylinder and Case Water cooled Water cooled Water cooled Cylinder and Case Water cooled Water cooled Cylinder and Case Clutch Hydraulic ally actuated Cobra 3Gx 3-Shoe Cobra 3Gx 3-Shoe Hydraulic ally actuated – (auto option) Cobra 3Gx 3-Shoe Rekluse Z-ball auto-clutch Transmission Six-speed sequential Single-speed auto Single-speed auto Six-speed sequential Single-speed auto Six-speed sequential Exhaust Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Tuned pipe and silencer Lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Mixture lubrication Fuel Capacity 1.06 Gallons .85 Gallons .70 Gallons 1.9 Gallons 1.9 Gallons 1.9 Gallons Frame Twin Spar Oval HSLA Double Cradle 4130 ChrMo Steel Double Cradle 4130 ChrMo Steel Arens design twin spar Arens design twin spar Arens design twin spar Wheelbase 1140mm 990 mm 908 mm 1067mm (track 915mm) 1067mm (track 915mm) 1067mm (track 915mm) Seat Height 762mm 680 mm 607 mm 762 mm 737 mm 762mm Ground Clearance 250mm 240 mm 216 mm 205 mm 205 mm 205mm Front Brakes Hydraulic Disk (205mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Hydraulic Disk (160mm) Rear Brakes Hydraulic Disk (165mm) Hydraulic Disk (140mm) Adjustable Drum Hydraulic Disk (180mm) Hydraulic Disk (180mm) Hydraulic Disk (180mm) Front Suspension Marzocchi 35mm USD Adjustable 220mm travel Cobra 30mm USD 210mm travel Marzocchi 32mm 168mm travel Dual A-Arm with SVO™ patented steering design. 248mm travel Dual A-Arm with SVO™ patented steering design. 248mm travel Dual A-Arm with SVO™ patented steering design. 248mm travel Rear Suspension Öhlins Fully Adjustable 270mm travel Fox Piggyback Fully Adjustable 248mm travel Öhlins Piggyback 170mm travel Fox Piggyback 220mm travel Solid axle Fox Piggyback 220mm travel Lightweight tube axle Fox Piggyback 220mm travel Solid axle Wheel Front / Rear 14″ spoke / 12″ spoke (Al rims, Billet hubs, 9ga. spokes) Cobra 12″ Billet Cobra 10″ Billet Cobra 10″ Billet Cobra 10″ Billet ITP 10×5 (4 x1) Al Douglas 8×6.5 (4×2.5) Al ITP 10×5 (4 x1) Al Douglas 8×6.5 (4×2.5) Al ITP 10×5 (4 x1) Al Douglas 8×6.5 (4×2.5) Al Tires Front / Rear 60-100×14 Dunlop 80-100×12 Dunlop 2.5×12 / 2.75×10 2.5×10 / 2.75×10 ITP Holeshot 19/6 ITP 16/6.50-9 ITP Holeshot 19/6 ITP 16/6.50-9 ITP Holeshot 19/6 ITP 16/6.50-9
Filed Under (Vengeance) by admin on 20-11-2010
Vengeance Maxis • Vengeance Raven • Vengeance Banshee • Vengeance Whiplash • Hotrod Drifter • Hotrod CalChop • Hotrod Teacher • Hotrod Bone Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.) • Slow down before you enter the turn; look as far ahead as possible through the turn. • Keep your feet on the pegs, and grip the gas tank with your knees. • Lean with the motorcycle; don’t try to sit perpendicular to the road while the motorcycle is leaning over. • Keep an even throttle through the turn, or even accelerate a little bit. Checking the Bike before the Ride It’s not fun to have things go wrong on a motorcycle, but if you spend a minute before you go off on a ride, you can increase the chances that nothing will.
Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010
Unpacking your Cobra Installing the front shock Installing the front tires Installing rear shocks Installing the rear tires Installing seats and harnesses Steering wheel installation Roll cage installation Safety checks / Adjustments General maintenance Unpacking your Cobra First off you should pull the carton off from your new 250 Cobra cart. Inspect the cart thoroughly to make sure that your new Cobra has not been heavily damaged. You will notice that the product has a metal frame holding it in place; you may want to start removing bolts from the shipping steel frame. The next step is to remove the metal frame and lift it off of the cart. Remove any of the metal frame that may afford resistance when working on the cart it self. Be careful the metal frame may be heavy and sharp. Now would also be a good time to inspect your Cobra a little more thoroughly. In the box with the Cobra you should have found a box containing miscellaneous hardware. Installing the front shock Using some of the bolts you found in your box, install the front shocks sliding the bolt through the brackets and tighten the nut down. Next, you will need to place the ball head into the turning arm, then tighten the castle nut and insert a cotter pin so that the castle nut doesn’t loosen and become a hazard. Installing the front tires
Find the front tires and place them on the front hub and place the lug nuts on the studs. Tighten them down. Make sure that all of the lug nuts are on tightly. Installing the rear shocks Moving to the rear of the Cobra you will notice the rear shocks are not inserted. Place the rear shocks into the bracket on the rear of the Cobra. Slide one of the provided bolts through the bracket and shock eyelet and tighten the bolt down. Installing the rear tires Now that the shocks have been placed properly you can install the rear tires, place the tires onto the axle then place the rear rim lined up onto the axle and tighten the provided castle nut down. Place the cotter pin through the axle and bend off to the side. This is so the castle nut does not loosen under load. Installing the seats and harnesses
(The arrow points to an example of where the seat bolts mount) Find the two racing seats shipped in the box with the Cobra. You will need to affix them to the frame by sliding the bolts up through the bottom of the frame. This can be tricky so have patience. Once both seats have been placed in the cart and tightened find the harnesses. Once found the harnesses mount to a bracket behind the seats. Place a bolt through the bracket and bolt the harnesses down tightly. Installing the steering wheel Find the steering wheel and place it onto the steering wheel mount. Grab the six small screws and place them through the steering wheel and mount, tighten them down but also make sure the top of the wheel is facing up. Installing the roll cage
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010
1) Place motorcycle on a firm level surface and secure in a upright position. 2) Remove saddle bags and saddle bag hardware (Tourer model only) Also remove rear riders pegs (Tourer model requires removal of rear footpeg offset hardware as well) 3) Attach bracket A (right) / B (left) to rear footpeg attachment point using new bolts provided. Remount footpegs/saddlebag hardware over top of brackets A/B. NOTE: Do not attach leveling stand bracket at this time 4) Attach bracket C(right) / D(left) to rear fender sub frame using new bolts provided. (Tourer model only – Saddle bag hardware mounts to the outside of brackets C/D. Brackets C/D mount between chrome side rail and saddlebag hardware.) NOTE: Brackets C/D have welded spacers which attach in toward rear fender 5) Attach top of Bracket E(right) / F(left) to rear of brackets C/D. Brackets E/F mount to the inside of brackets C/D. NOTE: Use ½ inch spacer between brackets E/F and C/D on Tourer model ONLY
6) Attach rear of brackets A/B to TOP of forward hitch arms. Attach bottom to brackets E/F to rear hitch plate. 7) Carefully tighten all bolts at this time ensuring hitch is square with motorcycle. Hitch Bracket Identification Leveling stand screw jack installation 1) Attach leveling stand brackets to brackets A and B 2) Thread right side screw jack into threaded hole on leveling stand bracket attached to bracket A sand adjust leveling jack bolt out. 3) Push motorcycle over from left side until right screw jack is touching floor. 4) Thread left side screw jack into threaded hole on leveling stand bracket attached to bracket B and adjust out until motorcycle will rest upright on both screw jacks. 5) Adjust screw jacks until motorcycle is level. 6) After InstaTrike is attached to or removed from receiver hitch, be sure to remove leveling stands and leveling stand brackets. CAUTION – Use screw jacks to hold motorcycle upright and level ONLY. Do not lift motorcycle with screw jacks. CAUTION – Use care when installing screw jacks. Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position.
INSTALLATION OF THE TOW-PAC HITCH CART. 1. Place your motorcycle on a smooth flat surface, like a garage floor, and install leveling stands. Install right leveling stand first. Carefully raise motorcycle off of side stand and install left leveling stand. Caution – Use leveling stands to level motorcycle ONLY. Do not raise motorcycle with stands Caution – Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position when installing leveling stands. 2. Assemble the axles, tires and wheels, and fenders onto the tow- pac hitch cart. 3. Carefully align the tow-pac hitch cart’s hitch mount with the receiver hitch on the motorcycle. Now push the hitch mount into the receiver hitch. (this might be a little difficult until you get use to doing it. Removing the paint from the hitch mount and applying a little grease will help.) 4. Place the hitch pin through the receiver hitch and hitch mount ( alignment plate ). Install and tighten the tension bolt
Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011
1. Make sure your bike is cool and parked on a flat secure surface! 2. Find your battery (you may have to remove your seat or side covers in order to get to your battery) Disconnect the NEGATIVE ( -) cable. Negative battery cable must be disconnected from the battery in order to avoid safety hazards! Be sure as you disconnect the Negative cable that it does not touch or make contact with your Positive terminal 3. Disconnect the fuse holder from the battery – both the positive ( +) and negative ( -) sides. 4. Cut the wire to the light that is not working with the side cutters. 5. At the problem light twist the light case back and forth slowly and then pull firmly, DO NOT yank to remove from the motorcycle. 6. If the motorcycle led light does not come off easily, repeat the twisting motion back and froth until you feel the light loosen – then pull. 7. Pull the motorcycle led light away from the motorcycle slowly until the cut end of wire falls free. 8. If you will NOT be using your motorcycle until the new lights arrive, you may stop at this step. SAFETY POINT: Otherwise, where you cut the wire, you need to dead end or tape the cut wire. This will keep it from shorting out until the new motorcycle led light is installed. 9. Reconnect fuse holder to battery. 10. Reconnect the battery and then install the seat. 11. Return the motorcycle led light or lights to Renegade Lights along with Warranty Return Policy Form. 12. Renegade Lights will return your new motorcycle led lights along with instructions for installing them.