xr100 1991 float adjustment

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Triumph Bonneville Tuning Manual

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 20-11-2010

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1. The Float The float bowl acts as a fuel reservoir to meet engine demand. The float is hinged on a pin in the float boss. It rises and falls with the fuel level in the float bowl. The small metal tang integrated in the plastic float supports the float valve, also known as the float needle. As the fuel in the float bowl rises, the float valve is pushed into the valve seat, until it’s high enough to shut off the fuel flow to the bowl. As fuel is used the level in the bowl drops lowering the float which pulls the float valve from its seat, and fills again. Adjusting the height of the float has a big effect on the mixture as a low or high float level makes it harder or easier for the vacuum to suck fuel into the venturi. Differing float levels cause an imbalance which may be perceived as vibration. 2. The Choke This system is referred to as the choke. But that’s a misnomer. When you pull the choke knob, what you’re doing is retracting a plunger that opens a tube connected to the starter jet, allowing additional fuel to enter the venturi just below the vacuum hose nipple. It supplements the pilot system at start up. 3. The Pilot System The primary purpose of the pilot system is to supply the mixture at idle. It continues to supply fuel throughout the entire throttle range, but after about 1/8 throttle is reached the main system starts to put out more of the total mixture, up to full throttle. By adjusting the idle with the big screw on the left side of the carburettors the position of the butterfly is altered, so exposing one or more of the four small holes that are drilled into the venturi, (leading to the pilot jet) just under the butterfly valve, letting more or less air pass the butterfly. Adjusting the pilot screw that’s under the carburettor varies the amount of air premixing with the fuel before it enters the venturi. 4. The Main System Open the throttle and the cable that’s connected to the butterfly valve turns it from vertical to horizontal, so letting more air through the venturi. This increases the vacuum effect that is transferred up through the vacuum drilling in the slide to the diaphragm valve that leads to the diaphragm chamber. The top chamber is separated from the bottom by a rubber diaphragm. The bottom chamber is open to atmospheric pressure from the airbox. When the vacuum in the top chamber rises enough, the constant ambient pressure of the lower chamber helps the diaphragm valve overcome the downward force of the diaphragm spring, so it rises from the ven- turi. As the diaphragm is raised the needle is pulled out of the needle jet, exposing a thinner portion of the needle taper which allows more fuel to rise into the venturi to meet the increased engine demand. The key parts of the main system are shown in the photo below

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Honda CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT TOOLS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 17-12-2011

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K&L CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT WRENCHES These tools use tough and accurate bevel gear actuation instead of cable for professional use. The aluminum handle includes index marks for accurate tuning. Sold each. Three types available: 35-9653 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9658 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench with longer tip for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9650 D-type Keihin Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Honda 90-DEGREE 1/4″ HEX DRIVER This gear driven, 1/4″ hex driver set is made of high-grade aluminum and stainless steel. Strongest tool of it’s type on the market. Designed for use on hard-to-reach pilot air screws on inline fours. Can be used with any 1/4″ or 6mm hex bits. 35-7820 90-Degree 1/4″ Hex Driver Set: Includes straight slot, phillips, d-shape pilot screw bit, 6mm hex jet bit & 1/4″ – hex – 1/4″ drive bit. FCR CARB TOOL Set includes three bits – 6mm hex for main jets, long reach straight slot for pilot jets and 3mm allen for float bowl removal. Longer bits make this set ideal for reaching into recessed cavities when adjusting Keihin FCR carburetors. Sold as a set. 35-7978 FCR Carb Tool 12″ DRILL BIT For removal of carburetor plug. (mixture screw plug) 1/8″ bit x 12 inch length. 35-1186 YM-33217-16 JET DRIVER 35-2270 Perfect for removal of jets from small recessed passages

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HARLEY DAVIDSON PREMIUM SUSPENSION KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2011

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REMOVAL Front Fork Assembly 1. Refer to the XR model section of the service manual and remove the front forks. INSTALLATION Front Fork Assembly 1. Install front forks from kit to motorcycle according to service manual instructions but do not tighten the fork bracket pinch screws at this time. 2. See Figure 1. Measure the distance from the top of upper fork bracket to top of fork assembly. Both sides must be exactly the same and measure 0.388-0.468 inch (9.85- 11.89 mm) above the top fork bracket. Align the adjustment screws inline with the handlebars (see Figure 5). is06083a Figure 1. Fork Installation Height Measurement. NOTE If new pinch screws are not readily available, use a wire grinder wheel to remove all remaining lock patch from original pinch screws, wash screws in clean solvent and dry thoroughly. Apply two drops of LOCTITE® 262 to the first 1/4 in. (6.35 mm) of the end threads. 3. Install pinch screws to upper and lower fork brackets. 4. Verify fork tube installation measurement is 0.388-0.468 inch (9.85-11.89 mm). 5. Tighten pinch screws to 30-35 ft-lbs ( (40.7-47.5 Nm)) See Figure 2. The top edge of reflector should be 1-1/2 inches (38.10 mm) below the lower edge of the bottom fork clamp. 6. Remove the adhesive backing. Place reflector in position and press reflector firmly into place to activate the adhesive. Repeat for reflector on opposite fork. REMOVAL OEM Rear Shock Absorbers 1. Refer to the XR model section of the service manual and remove the rear shock absorbers. INSTALLATION Rear Shock Absorbers 1. See Figure 3. Install the rear shock absorbers according to service manual instructions. The shocks are installed with the external gas reservoir to the rear of the shock absorbers and the thick side of the grommet installed to the frame rail mounts. is06142 Figure 3. Install Thick Side Of Grommet To Frame Rail SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS Front Fork Suspension Adjustment Whenever a wheel is installed and before moving the motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00284a) Adjust both forks equally. Improper fork adjustment can lead to loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00124c) Compression and rebound adjusting valves may be damaged if too much force is used at either end of the adjustment range. (00237a) NOTES Damping is set at the factory for the average solo rider under normal riding conditions. The rider may make adjustments to compensate for individual riding styles and varying road conditions. Evaluating and changing the rebound and compression damping is a very subjective process with many variables and should be approached carefully. The front and rear preload setting will need to be adjusted for the rider’s weight and cargo. This adjustment should be made before the motorcycle is ridden any distance and after changing the overall vehicle weight (adding saddlebags, etc.). If the preload adjustment is correct, and you have the rebound and compression damping set at the factory recommended points, the motorcycle should handle and ride properly. Changes in the load carried requires changes in the preload setting(s). Carrying less weight than was used for setting up the suspension requires decreasing the amount of preload. Increasing the load carried requires adding more preload. The following tools are needed to make suspension adjust- ments. • 5 mm hex key (front fork preload adjustment tool). • Spanner wrench with extension handle (shock absorber preload adjustment). • Screw driver (front fork damping adjustment). 1. Front fork preload adjustment: a. See Figure 4 and Table 1. Using the 5 mm hex key, turn the preload adjuster counterclockwise until it stops. This is the minimum preload setting. b. Turn the preload adjuster clockwise the recommended amount specified for the rider weight

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ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS

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Filed Under (Atk) by admin on 01-11-2010

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PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On some Works shocks a threaded preload is standard. This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. CHECKING RIDE HEIGHT— 1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. HM CRX50 / BAJA & ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS Continued on next page. #HM50 – 5/27/99 #HM50 – 5/27/99 To Front Valve Mounting channel Spacer Flange Shock eye Top View of Shock Mount Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure! PRESSURIZING EMULSION SHOCKS The pressure setting for Works gas shocks is 250 p.s.i. of dry nitrogen. To pressurize a shock with some residual pressure in it, bring the gauge manifold up to 250 p.s.i. and depress the core with the T-handle. This will either equalize the pressure or refill the shock without transferring oil from the shock into the gauge assembly. The best gauges for this purpose screw on to the valve and incorporate a T-handled core depressor to isolate the shock from the gauge. This allows a leak-free separation once the desired pressure is reached. For simplified operation, an extra valve is provided for the filling apparatus, allowing pressure adjustment with the gauge in place. Works offers a suitable gauge and filling manifold. Most motorcycle shops that deal with dirt bikes can pressurize the shock

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1991 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FOR MR2, PREVIA & LAND CRUISER

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 27-10-2011

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For 1991 models, the Toyota owner’s manual offers 3 maintenance sections within the maintenance chapter following the introduction page as follows: (1) GENERAL MAINTENANCE This section describes maintenance items which are the owner’s responsibility. (2) SCHEDULE A This schedule is for those Toyota vehicles which may require more frequent maintenance, due to driving conditions, environment, etc. This was formerly known as the “Severe” schedule. (3) SCHEDULE B This schedule is Toyota’s minimum maintenance requirement. Items on this schedule must be performed to maintain Toyota’s warranty coverage. This was formerly known as the “Normal” schedule. The highlights of required service are as follows: – Every 7,500 or 12 months / oil and filter change – Every 15,000 or 24 months / chassis components service – Every 30,000 or 36 months / engine and chassis service A summary of the 1991 maintenance schedule “B” chart for three 1991 Toyota models is provided on page 3 of this bulletin for your convenience and quick referenc

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AJS WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Front Wheel (a) With the machine on the centre stand, disconnect the brake cable and remove the wheel. (b) Slacken the circular lock-nut (10). (c) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) clockwise until all the slackness is just taken up. (d) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) anticlockwise one-half a turn. It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done by:— (e) placing the wheel under a press and pressing the end of the spindle (on the brake-side) downwards. or: (f) jarring the end of the spindle on the brake-side with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged, (g) Tighten the circular lock-nut (10). Hold the sleeve in position while this is being done otherwise the sleeve may move and the adjustment will be in- correct. (h) Refit the wheel and check for end-float. Front Wheel Bearing Assembly T www.ajs-matchles s.info ISSUED BY A·J·S MOTOR CYCLES, LONDON, S.E.18. Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly for Quickly Detachable Wheels Rear Wheel (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gear­ box in position. (c) Remove the wheel. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox (15) with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Proceed as described in the instructions for the front wheel (b) to (d). Note that in the illustrations for the rear wheel the circular lock-nut is (13) and the adjusting sleeve is (14), It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done in the following manner: Quickly Detachable Wheels (f) place the wheel under a press, brake- side uppermost, and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6), or; (g) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. Wheels for Rigid-Frame Models (h) Remove the brake-side spindle nut (19), washer (18), fork-end spacer (17), outer spacer (20), and the brake plate (21). (i) Place the wheel, brake-side uppermost. under a press and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6). or; (j) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. All Rear Wheels (k) Refit the speedometer-drive gearbox. It is pushed on. The two dogs must engage with the slots in the end-face of the adjusting sleeve. (l) Refit the lock nut (16). (m) Refit the wheel into the frame and check for end-float. (n) Tighten the lock-nut (16) and refit the speedometer driving cable

2002 GL 1800 Reverse Cable Inspection/ Adjustment PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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INSPECTION/ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 1. Remove the right engine side cover (see S/M Page 2-4). 2. Check the cable clearance on the N (neutral) and R (reverse) cables. Note: It is not necessary to remove the center inner fairing or inspect the reverse shift actuator. . 6. Push the reverse shift switch to “OFF” and turn off the ignition. 7. Tighten the reverse cable lock nuts. 8. Reinstall the right engine side cover. PARTS INFORMATION No parts are required for this procedure. WARRANTY INFORMATION Normal warranty. After completion of the inspection/adjustment, submit one claim per VIN using the following information only: Template #: GL#5 Flat Rate Time = 0.3 hours The reverse cable lock nuts may not have been properly tightened on some GL1800 units. We have developed a procedure to inspect and adjust any affected units. Please follow the INSPECTION/ ADJUSTMENT procedures included in this Service Bulletin. AFFECTED UNITS 2002 GL1800 units with VIN range: 1HFSC470*2A102303 through 1HFSC470*2A102622 * indicates check digit Any unit in the above VIN range may be affected and should be inspected according to the procedures in this Service Bulletin. All units outside of the above VIN range do not require inspection.

BMW Motorcycles PolyVbelt adjustment – all R1150 engines

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 12-11-2010

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the maintenance schedules of the R 1150 GS, R 1150 R, R 1150 RS, R 1150 RTand R 1150 RT-CHP have been revised to include the one-time retensioning of the poly-Vbelt as part of the 6,000 mile service. The modified “retensioning”procedure is described below. Note: The special tensioning nut, BMWspecial tool number12 3 551, is required for this adjustment. This special tool is included in the initial equipment package forthe R 1150 RS. In the case of motorcycles that have alreadycovered 6,000 miles, and on which the poly-Vbelt was not retensioned as part of the 6,000 service, this adjustment must be performed as part of the 12,000 mile, ornext scheduled/annual service PolyVbelt tensioning instructions: 1) Remove front engine cover. 2) Undo nut (2) and screw on tensioning nut, BMWspecial tool 12 3 551. 3) Loosen the alternatormounting bolts (3,4). 4) Using a torque wrench, togetherwith BMWspecial tool 12 3 551, preload the polyVbelt to 8 Nm and hold this adjustment. 5) Tighten the upper retaining nut (4), then remove the torque wrench from the adjusting screw. 6) Tighten all screws and nuts 7) Install front cover. Tightening torque: Poly Vbelt preload: ……………………………….8 Nm Alternatorto the alternatorsupport cover20 Nm

Harley-Davidson Evolution Engines, Hydraulic Lifter Limited Travel Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-10-2010

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Remove tappet assemblies from engine being sure that each one is kept with it’soriginal tappet block. NOTE: This procedure is the preferred method of installation. However, kit can be installed without removing lifters from engine. 2. Remove hydraulic piston retaining wire clip from one assembly at a time. Be careful not to bend wire clip during disassembly. 3. Completely disassemble tappet removing all parts. 4. Thoroughly clean all parts including tappet body. Remove any oil which might prevent hydraulic unit from fully collapsing during adjustment. 5. Insert one spacer from S&S HL 2 Tkit in tappet body. 6. Reassemble tappet in reverse order making sure original parts arereturned to their original positions. See Picture1. 7. Replace wire retaining clip in tappet body. 8. Put tappet back in original tappet block. 9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 for three remaining tappets. 10. Reassemble engine with modified tappets. 11. Adjust pushrods. NOTE – In all cases engine must be cold and lifter must be at lowest point of travel for pushrod adjustment To prevent accidents, remove ground cable from battery. A. Remove spark plugs. B. Bring piston to TDC on compression stroke in cylinder to be adjusted. Normally both tappets will be at their lowest point of travel. C. Extend pushrod adjustment, collapsing lifter until piston assembly is in contact with HL 2 Tspacer and pushrod is tight. If tappets contain oil, as when pushrods are readjusted after engine has been run, or if all oil was not removed during installation, extend pushrod adjustment until valve is open (about five additional turns of adjusting screw). Allow 5 minutes for hydraulic unit to bleed down. If pushrod can be turned with fingers after bleeding down, lifter is not completely collapsed, and this step must be repeated. NOTE – perform this operation on one cylinder at a time. Do not turn engine until pushrod adjustment is complete. Turning engine while valve is held off the seat could result in valve to valve or valve to piston contact and serious valve train damage. D. Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be rotated with the fingers with slight drag. NOTE – Shortening adjuster an additional six flats or full turn from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This provides additional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly, which can improve the ability of the hydraulic unit to maintain zerolash under normal operating conditions. E. Tighten lock nut. F. Follow the same procedure for all four push rods. G. Recheck pushrod adjustment after a few hundred miles. NOTES ● It is a good idea to recheck pushrod adjustment in a new engine as valve train may tighten up due to gasket compression and valve seat wear. ● Upon initial start up after modification, HL 2 Tequipped lifters may be somewhat noisy for 10-20 miles. If lifters are still noisy after 20 miles it is recommended that pushrods be adjusted 1⁄2 turnlooser. See step D

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HONDA 450E/ S MOUNTING AND ARS ADJUSTMENT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-12-2011

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MULTI-RATE SPRINGS AND THE ARS SYSTEM Depending on the application dual–rate springs are fitted on the shocks. Dual-rate springs are just that– a spring set with two separate rates. This is done with a short spring stacked on a longer spring. As both springs collapse they produce a soft, or initial, rate. The spring set will maintain this initial rate until the short spring stops compressing. At that point, the spring rate “crosses over” to the stiffer, or final, rate. This multi-rate system allows a soft initial rate for comfort on small bumps, but has the capability of soaking up the big pot-holes and other off road hazards. ARS stands for Adjustable Rate Suspension. ARS is available on some dual-rate spring 4-wheel ATV shocks. ARS differs from spring preload. The ARS system allows the rider to increase or decrease the load-carrying capacity of the shocks by turning a lever. Depending on the application and spring set, the rider can increase the load capacity of the shocks up to 50 percent. The average preloader that makes a half-inch increase in preload will HONDA 450E/S MOUNTING & ARS ADJUSTMENT INSTRUCTIONS Continued on next page. #TRX450 – 5/28/99 #TRX450 – 5/28/99 Fig. 1. Front shock installation. Note that the shock body is at the top with the shaft pointing down. ARS shown is in the unloaded position. Fig. 2. Rear shock mounting with ARS. Position the lever so that it will not come in contact with any vehicle parts around it. The cup can be rotated to reposition the lever if necessary.
increase the capacity of the shocks to only about 5 to 10 percent. ARS allows the shocks to be correct for solo riding, but still handle the increased weight of an added load. ARS can also be employed to stiffen the rates for aggressive riding. The ARS system consists of an indexing lever and a stepped cup that contains the short spring of the dual- rate. The position of the lever in relation to the steps in the cup determines how long the spring set remains on the soft, or initial, spring rate. On most ARS applications, four positions can be selected from full stiff to full soft. Indexing is done in a matter of seconds by rotating the lever or the cup by hand. Indexing the cup to the lever is usually preferable to avoid interference. Adjustment of the ARS system should only be made while the vehicle is unloaded to reduce the load on the springs. NOTE: It is important to make sure that a step in the cup is positioned directly over the tang on the lever. This will prevent damage to the cup and/or lever that can be caused by making partial contact between the tang and a step. In addition, make sure that the lever will not contact any vehicle parts around it, as the suspension moves up. TUNING TIPS—The “softest” setting on the ARS does not mean that the ride will be the most comfortable at that setting. It means that this is the softest spring setting which would be employed on smooth trails or without a load. Excessive suspension bottoming caused by rough conditions or by the addition of a large load will cause a harsh ride when the shock is adjusted to this setting. To eliminate this bottoming, adjust the ARS to the stiffer positions for a more comfortable ride. Hence, sometimes “stiffer is softer.” NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS

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