Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010
The K 1300 S with 175 hp, the K 1300 R with 173 hp and the K 1300 GT with 160 hp. The new K bikes feature updated transmission and clutch assembly, plus smoother engine performance and new switchgear. Von Kuenheim continues: “By raising capacity to 1300 cc, our engineers have not only increased output but also torque on all three models. At the same time the driveline was intensively revised from air/fuel mixture formation right through to the exhaust system. In this way we have been able to optimize partial load behavior as well as throttle response. Now the clutch can be operated with even less effort and with greater refinement. Shifting has been improved tangibly due to constructional changes to the gearbox and drive.” BMW is introducing new options for the 2009 as well. The popular Electronic Suspension Adjustment that first appeared on the 2005 K 1200 S has now been updated with even more on-the-fly adjustability and it’s called ESA II. Also new is the quick-shifter option, racing-style gear shift assistant, borrowed from BMW’s race-ready HP2 Sport. Automatic Stability Control (ASC) is also offered as an option on the new K bikes. “Both the K 1300 S and also the R will also have the shift assistant – familiar from the HP2 Sport – available as an option for the first time,” von Kuenheim emphasized. “We have also advanced the chassis. The new lower longitudinal strut is now made of aluminum and is thus considerably lighter. This makes the front wheel guidance response even more sensitive. The result of this comprehensive development work is superior handling, improved rideability and lower fuel consumption. The electronically adjustable suspension – called ESA in short – was launched as a world first on the K 1200 S. Now we are presenting the new, well-proven ESA II as an option for the K Series. Apart from the suspension and damping this unique system also allows the spring rate to be adjusted at the press of a button. The K Series model revision also heralds a new and innovative generation of switches and controls.
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010
Speedometer Cowling Chrome 1 2 Alcohol Wipe 1 NOTE: Allow time for the 3M® brand quality tape to cure for 24 hours at 19-32° C before washing or waxing the motorcycle. INSTALLATION 1. Position the Speedometer Cowl in front of the Speedometer. The Cowl attaches to the Speedometer Cover, not on the rubber ring around the Speedometer. The Cowl should be symmetrically located in relation to the Speedometer, use the Speedometer markings as a reference. 2. Remove the red backing tape from the adhesive strip on the base of the Speedometer Cowl. 3. Position the Speedometer Cowl as done in step 1. Make any position adjustments now. 4. Firmly press the Speedometer Cowl in place on the Speedometer Cover. 5. Allow twenty-four hours for the adhesive to fully set before washing or waxing.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2011
INSTALLATION 1. Remove seat, left saddlebag, left side cover and air cleaner assembly following instructions in applicable Service Manual. 2. Review the CRUISE CONTROL-ULTRA MODELS section in the applicable Service Manual before attempting to install this kit. Install Cruise Control Module To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual and remove bat- tery. 1 is04799 1. Cruise control module mounting hole (3) Figure 1. Battery Box (Right Side View) 2. See Figure 1. In battery box, identify the location of the three mounting holes (1) (on left side of panel) for mounting the cruise control module. 3. See Figure 10. Obtain the cruise control module (1) with cruise cable attached and three grommets (5) from kit. Install the grommets on studs of cruise control module with small diameters outward. 4. See Figure 2. While holding cruise control assembly in place near its mounting location, feed the cruise control cable through the hole in frame crossmember plate and route under rear spark plug wire staying on inner side of fuel line components. Carefully curve cable toward the right and continue routing up under the fuel tank and over the top of the engine stabilizer bracket, then down between cylinder heads. Leave in place temporarily. 5. See Figure 10 and obtain a harness retainer (4) from kit and secure the cruise cable to crossmember plate with barb as shown. On California models, remove the EVAP hose from cable clip and secure hose with one of the cable strap (8)
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 18-01-2012
remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position. 2. Remove throttle cable paying close attention to routing, as the new cable (s) will need too be routed the same. 3. Remove stock carburetor and stock throttle housing. Stuff a clean, dry rag into manifold to keep debris out of motor. 4. Remove stock air box. 5. Remove choke cable from handlebars. 6. Remove carb vent line from bike. Carburetor installation 1. Carefully trim the rubber alignment tab off of the face of the manifold with a razor blade or side cutters. 2. Remove the hex pipe plug from the carb cap using a 11mm or 7/16 wrench. Do not discard plug, as it will be needed later. Install the metering adjustment tool included in the hardware kit. Do not over-tighten as damage may occur to cap. 3. Attach fuel line to carburetor and secure with clamp. 4. Install remote idle cable into tab on top of carburetor. See main manual for this step. NOTE: Nut must be removed from cable before installation 5. Place carburetor into manifold
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012
When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.