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Yamaha Road Star Engine Guard Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

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1. Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. 2. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, Remove the two lower engine mount bolts. These bolts are located on the inside of the right and left frame rails, and will be replaced with the longer 10mm bolts included with your new engine guard. 3. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 4. Raise the guard until the upper V” mount is located between the frame rails. Note: Your new Barons engine guard is equipped with a unique upper V” mount clamp. This clamp becomes a cradle for the upper frame supports when it is inserted between the frame rails. 5. Rotate the engine guard until the lower mounting brackets are aligned with the lower engine mount holes. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the new 10mm bolts and washers, and finger tighten only. 7. Tighten each 3/8″ bolt in the upper clamp evenly by using a 9/16″ socket or a wrench. Snug down each bolt until it draws the front of the upper clamp into contact with the upper frame supports, then adjust these bolts accordingly to achieve equal spacing between each floorboard and the lower engine guard rail. 8. Tighten the jam nuts against the washers to lock each bolt in place. CAUTION! It is critical that you do not over-tighten these bolts. Tighten all remaining nuts and bolts securely. If necessary, slightly loosen rear brake line banjo bolt and rotate banjo fitting for clearance with engine guard. Tighten banjo bolt and check brake for proper operation. You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

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Yamaha V-Star 650 Engine Guard Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Your new Barons engine guard will fasten to the frame at the same points as the OEM guard and will use the same hardware. 2. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, remove the 14mm bolts from the underside of the drivers footpeg mounts. 3. Remove the 12mm upper engine mount bolts located on both sides of the frame. Replacement bolts are included with your new engine guard. 4. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 5. Raise the guard until the holes in the lower mounting brackets align with the vacated bolt holes beneath the drivers footpegs. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the large washers (supplied with the guard) between the rear face of the lower bracket and the frame. The washer fills the space between the lower mounting bracket and the footpeg mount. Reinsert the 14mm bolts and finger tighten. 7. Rotate the guard until the holes in the upper mounting brackets align with the empty holes on each side of the frame. 8. Insert the replacement 13mm bolts, along with their washers, and tighten securely. Tighten all other nuts and bolts securely. 9. Remove the protection on the front fender and you’re ready to ride. CAUTION!!! You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

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Yamaha V-Star 650 Engine Guard REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 03-01-2012

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Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Your new Barons engine guard will fasten to the frame at the same points as the OEM guard and will use the same hardware. 2. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, remove the 14mm bolts from the underside of the drivers footpeg mounts. 3. Remove the 12mm upper engine mount bolts located on both sides of the frame. Replacement bolts are included with your new engine guard. 4. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 5. Raise the guard until the holes in the lower mounting brackets align with the vacated bolt holes beneath the drivers footpegs. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the large washers (supplied with the guard) between the rear face of the lower bracket and the frame. The washer fills the space between the lower mounting bracket and the footpeg mount. Reinsert the 14mm bolts and finger tighten. 7. Rotate the guard until the holes in the upper mounting brackets align with the empty holes on each side of the frame. 8. Insert the replacement 13mm bolts, along with their washers, and tighten securely. Tighten all other nuts and bolts securely. 9. Remove the protection on the front fender and you’re ready to ride. CAUTION!!! You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

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2004 Honda CRF450R OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2010

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motorcycle can be kickstarted with the transmission in gear by disengaging the clutch before operating the kickstarter. Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (page 21, 23, 24). Cold Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. If the temperature is 35°C (95°F) or below, pull the choke knob fully out. 4. If the temperature is below 0°C (32°F), open the throttle two or three times. (The engine requires a richer mixture for starting in cold weather. When the throttle is so opened, the accelerator pump will feed extra fuel to the cylinder, thereby facilitating starting in cold weather.) 5. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion. (Do not open the throttle, As the carburetor is equipped with an accelerator pump, excessive fuel will be charged into the engine, and the spark plug will be fouled if the throttle is opened and closed repeatedly. Excessive fuel in the engine makes kick- starting difficult.) 6. About a minute after the engine starts, push the choke knob back all the way to fully OFF. If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly. (1) FUEL FILL CAP (2) BREATHER TUBE WARNING (1) FUEL VALVE (2) CHOKE KNOB Warm Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Starting the engine excessively charged with fuel by throttle blipping or other reasons: 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat kickstarter operation approximately 10 times very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from the engine. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Stopping The Engine 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Turn the fuel valve OFF. 3. Lightly open the throttle 2 – 3 times, and then close it. 4. Depress and hold the engine stop button until the engine stops completely. NOTE: • Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the carburetor to overflow. (1) THROTTLE GRIP (2) ENGINE STOP BUTTON Break-In Procedure Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km). During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. This same procedure should be followed each time when: • Piston is replaced • Rings are replaced • Cylinder is replaced • Crankshaft or crank bearing are replaced

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KTM 60 SX / 65 SX REPAIR MANUAL ENGINE

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Carburetor adjustment Basic information about the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 . Basic information of changing the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures  choose leaner carburetor adjustment low altitude or low temperatures  choose richer carburetor adjustment * WARNING * -ONLYUSE PREMIUM – GRADE GASOLINE ROZ 95 MIXED WITH HIGH – GRADE TWO – STROKE ENGINE OIL . OTHER TYPES OF GASOLINE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE , AND USE OF SAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY . -ONLYUSE HIGH – GRADE 2- STROKE ENGINE OIL OF KNOWN BRANDS ( I . E .SHELL ADVANCE RACING X). -NOTENOUGH OIL OR LOW – GRADE OILCAN CAUSE EROSION OF THE PISTON . USING TOO MUCH OIL , THE ENGINE CAN START SMOKING AND FOUL THE SPARKPLUG . -INTHE CASE OFA LEANER ADJUSTMENT OF THE CARBURETOR PROCEED CAUTIOUSLY . ALWAYSREDUCETHEJETSIZEINSTEPSOFONENUMBERTOAVOID OVERHEATING AND PISTON SEIZURE . NOTE: If despite a changed adjustment the engine does not run properly, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system. Basic information on carburetor wear As a result of engine vibrations, throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause carburetor malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced after 1000 hours of using. Idling range – A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the idle adjusting screw 1 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. The idling speed can be changed by turning the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Opening up – B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range – C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer

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HARLEY DAVIDSON V-Series California Engine Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-11-2010

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During Break-In At 50 Miles (80 Kilometers): 1- Change engine oil and filter. 2- Inspect for fuel and oil leaks. 3- Inspect air cleaner element and service as required. 4- Check tightness of exterior fasteners, except head bolts. Engine Maintenance at 500 Miles (800 Kilometers): 1- Change engine oil and filter. 2- Inspect for fuel and oil leaks. 3- Inspect air cleaner element and service as required. 4- Check tightness of exterior fasteners, except head bolts. 5- Check operation of enrichment device and throttle controls. 6- Check engine idle speed. 7- Check tightness of engine mounts. Regular Service Intervals Regular lubrication and maintenance will help keep your new S&S engine operating at peak performance. The following table presents the required service schedule for normal operating conditions. Failure to complete the required engine maintenance can result in engine damage and an increase in emissions. Please refer to the motorcycle owner’s manual for any additional required chassis maintenance. Engine Service Intervals Item Interval Engine Oil & Filter Change at 50, 500, 2,500 miles (80, 800, 4,000 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter1 Air Cleaner Element Inspect at 50 and 500 miles (80 and 800 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter2 Tappet Oil Screen Inspect every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers). Replace every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Petcock, Lines, & Fittings, Vacuum Lines Inspect at 50 and 500 miles (80 and 800 kilometers), every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter. Fuel Tank Filter Screen & In-Line Fuel Filter (If used) Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Engine Idle Speed Adjust as required. Operation of Throttle & Enrichment Device ControlsInspect at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 2,500 miles (4,000 kilometers) thereafter. Spark Plugs Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Replace every 10,000 miles (16,000 kilometers) or as needed. Ignition Timing Inspect every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers). Engine Mounts Inspect at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) thereafter. External Fasteners Except Engine Head Bolts Re-torque at 500 miles (800 kilometers) and every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) thereafter. 1- S&S recommends that petroleum-based oil not specifically formulated for motorcycles should be changed every 1,000 miles (1,600 kilometers) after the break-in period. 2- Replace more frequently if required or if engine is operated in a dusty environment.

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POLINI MINICROSS AND MlNlMOTARD OWNER'S AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 22-11-2010

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Fit the stand using the M8x18 screw to fasten it and the spring provided (photo 1 6). A DANGER! We suggest you to remove the stand during competitions as it could be dangerous and bruising. 18- Fit the gear lever l~hoto 171. 19- Fill the fuel tank (See section 4.13). 20- Check the engine oil level (See section 4.3). INTRODUCTION Always ensure that the motorcycle has been efficiently serviced and check it over before riding it. Take your motorcycle to an authorised POIJNI MOTOR1 dealer for all maior servicing and repair. Because of the manufacturer’s policy OF continuous development, and because of constant innovations in technology, your motorcycle may differ in some details from that described in the illustrations and text in this manual. Original POLlNl MOTOR1 spare parts are always made from the same materials and in the same way as the parts originally fitted to your minicross motorcycle. Always insist on original POIJNI MOTOR1 spore parts. Their use ensures a longer life and improved efficiency for your motorcycle. 2. STARTING THE ENGINE FOR THE FIRST TIME Always check over your motorcycle thoroughly before starting the engine. To start the engine for the first time, as instructed below. 1 – Turn the fuel tap located under the fuel tank to #ON” position (photo 18) Run your new motorcycle in as instructed How to ensure that the engine and transmission bed in correctly and to ensure continuous reliability in Future. A CAUTION! The first time yw ride your new motorcycle, ride for about two hours at low engine speeds to ensure that it runs in correctly. Also respect the following precautions. 2- Once the engine starts, leave it idle until it warms up to normal temperature. If you switch the engine off for a short time, wait for it to cool down completely before you re-start it. – 3- During the running in period, always ride at constant 2- Before starting the engine put the gear in neutral position speeds. AVOID RAPID ACCELERATION. (photo 19, gear N). 4- Even when riding at low engine speeds, avoid extended A WARNING! IF the gear position is not neutral the bike could move when started. 3- If the engine is cold, lift the choke lever on the carburettor (photo 20). A WARNING! Lower the starter lever again as won as the engine starts to warm up. 4- Leove the throttle closed. Pivot the kick-start lever out wards and push energetically downwards with your foot to start the engine. 5- Return the kick-start lever to its rest position. Leave the engine idle for a few minutes to warm it up. A WARNING! Check that the engine stop button stops the engine effectively before yw begin riding the motorcycle. difficult sections of road or Lck that could cause the engine to become very hot. 5- Once you have run in your motorcycle following all these instructions, take it to a Polini Motori dealer for its post- running-in service. Apart from a change of spark plug and engine oil, this service also includes the disassembly

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YAMAHA YZF-R1 engine TechnicaL Specification

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 13-11-2010

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The 2006 model runs with the same 998 cc liquid-cooled 4-stroke DOHC 4-cylinder 5-valve layout featuring a 77 x 53.6 mm bore and stroke and 12.4:1 compression ratio. Equipped with a 3-axis transmission, fuel injection and 40 degree forward slanted cylinders, this ultra-compact powerplant is one of the most highly respected supersport engines of all time. Yamaha’s engineers have conducted a thorough examination of the R1′s intake and exhaust efficiency, and for 2006 a range of detailed changes in this area have achieved a 3 Hp increase in power at 12,500 rpm without direct air induction. One of the most significant changes is the use of shorter intake valve guides for 2006. Measuring 27.5 mm, these new guides are 5 mm shorter than the 2005 model, and this 15% reduction in length increases engine efficiency by increasing intake air flow, and reducing frictional power losses. To match the new intake valve guides, the 2006 model also features smoother intake ports. Furthermore, the clutch boss has been modified to increase the oil flow to the clutch assembly. other detail changes The design of the compact cam chain tensioner has been revised, and now features a different sealing system for improved durability. The overall length of the main gear axle is increased by 5 mm, and the engine cover is modified accordingly. engine TechnicaL highLighTS n 998 cc liquid-cooled 4-stroke DOHC 4-cylinder 5-valve n 3 hp power increase to 175 Hp @ 12,500 rpm* n 40 degree forward incline cylinder n Fuel injection n Ultra compact 3-axis transmission n 77 x 53.6 mm bore and stroke n 12.4:1 compression ratio n New smoother intake port design n New shorter intake valve guides n Higher intake and exhaust efficiency n Modified cam chain tensioner n Redesigned clutch boss * Without direct air induction
chaSSiS The R1′s Deltabox V chassis has been developed with the benefit of ongoing structural analysis and repeated testing, all the time using input from our highly successful MotoGp race programme. For 2006 the R1′s class-leading aluminium Deltabox V frame remains externally similar to the existing model, but beneath the skin some subtle yet significant changes have taken place

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YAMAHA YZ MOTOCROSS ENGINE specification

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 13-11-2010

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YZ450F Engine Reshaped intake ports The YZ450F’s innovative 5-valve cylinder head design is one of the most sophisticated in the category, and plays a vital role in enabling this high-tech MX bike maintain its well-documented superiority on the race track. For 2008 the combustion efficiency of this advanced cylinder head is further improved with the introduction of reshaped intake ports which enhance the bike’s low to mid-range performance. New exhaust camshaft profile Yamaha Motor Europe N.V. Page 5 of 33
In order to optimise the significant performance gains of the new intake port design, the latest YZ450F’s 5-valve cylinder head is equipped with new camshafts featuring reshaped Yamaha Motor Europe N.V. Page 6 of 33
profiles. The inlet valve timing has been adjusted, the overlap is modified and exhaust lift is revised to create an idealised balance of intake and exhaust operations for increased combustion efficiency and improved performance in the important low to mid-range zone. Reduced piston clearance The YZ450F powerplant is already one of the most advanced 4-stroke engine designs in the MX world, featuring cutting-edge technology which gives it a real advantage. Extensive use of lightweight materials has enabled Yamaha to create a light, compact and high-revving engine which produces a remarkably wide band of hard hitting power – and for 2008 our engineers have further reduced cylinder/piston tolerances of the 95mm diameter piston in order to enhance the overall package. These reductions may only be measurable in terms of microns, yet the differences are most definitely tangible, and include increased torque output, smoother running and quieter operation. New 94dB silencer Complying with the new FIM94dB(A) regulations is a new stainless steel silencer which maintains the machine’s strong low to mid-range power output, while reducing overall noise.

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Yamaha YZ400F Engine specification

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 13-11-2010

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During more than 25 years as one of the world’s leading manufacturers of advanced motocross machinery Yamaha has consistently developed and produced exciting and innovative new engine technology. Now Yamaha are about to amaze the off-road world once again with what is surely the most important new powerplant to be produced since our liquid cooled YZ 2-strokes of the early 1980s. Extremely compact and remarkably light, the YZ400F’s 4-stroke powerplant incorporates some of the most sophisticated technology ever seen on a production motocross engine. Displacing 399cc, this 55hp high performance liquid cooled motor features bore and stroke dimensions of 92 x 60.1mm – a free-revving short stroke configuration which allows this ground-breaking motorcycle to produce a wider powerband than today’s 250cc 2-strokes. Short skirt piston runs in a ceramic composite plated cylinder which reduces frictional losses, thereby enhancing throttle response throughout the rpm range. To ensure overall dimensions are kept to a minimum this revolutionary new engine is fitted with an extremely light and compact 5-valve cylinder head. Running a 12.5:1 compression ratio and with a combustion chamber volume of 20.8 cc, this high efficiency 5-valve design runs with lightweight valves, springs and lifters for immediate throttle response and smooth high rpm operation. Feeding the three lightweight inlet valves is a 39mm Keihin flat-slide carburettor which breathes through a large capacity airbox. Special feature on the YZ400F’s intake side is an innovative air valve which is designed to ensure easy starting when the engine is warm. A tube connects the machine’s inlet manifold directly to the airbox, bypassing the FCR39 carburettor. By pulling the air valve’s choke-type knob, air is fed straight from the airbox into the engine for easier warm starting.

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