Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010
1-Locate and remove the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Locate the new position for the IATS on the bottom of the S&S air cleaner. Push the IATS in the lower air cleaner cover and turn1⁄ 4 turnin either direction, make sure you feel it lock into place. Inspect from the inside of the air cleaner to ensure that the barbs are locked into place. See Picture 1. 2-Using the stock Polaris Victory air box gasket (PN 5811908) and S&S supplied (Qty 4) M6 fasteners, assemble the lower air cleaner cover to the throttle body using 243 Blue Loctite®on the treads. Torque the M6 fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. 3-Position the S&S pre-formed air filter onto the lower air cleaner cover ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 4-Install the top air cleaner cover on top of the filter ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 5-Make surethat the filter is situated in the machined grooves on both the top and bottom air cleaner covers. 6-Using 243 Blue Loctite on the threads of the S&S supplied (Qty 3) M6 fasteners tighten down top air cleaner cover evenly until seated. Finish torque the fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. Now you’re ready for breather hose and barometric pressure hose routing. 7-Locate the S&S supplied 3⁄ 16 “reinforced hose and clamps. Push one end of the hose on the 3⁄ 16 “brass barb in the bottom air cleaner cover and slide clamp up around the end of the hose. The other end of the hose is for the Barometric Pressure Sensor (MAP). Route the hose towardthe back of the engine over the top of the rear rocker cover. 8-Remove the MAP sensor from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Remove the orange rubber gasket from the MAP sensor. Slide the S&S supplied clamp over the 3⁄ 16 “rubber hose that leads to the air cleaner. Push the barbed end of the MAP sensor into the 3⁄ 16 ” rubber hose and slide clamp up to the end of the hose around the barb. A small amount of lubricant may be applied to the barb on the MAP sensor to make installation easier. 2 S&S Air Cleaner Assembly 41-0021 (Calibration cardnot shown) Picture 1 CAUTION WARNING WARNING Plastic barb locked in recess.
9-Assemble and install breather hose as follows: A-Cut the stock Victory®hose on the straight section just behind the 90 degree bend as shown in Picture 2 . B-Slide an S&S supplied 1⁄ 2 “hose clamp over the modified stock breather hose. C-Install the S&S straight barb in Victory breather hose and position a hose clamp around hose end. D-Slide the 90-degree end of breather hose over the brass barb on the air cleaner cover and slide hose clamp in place. E-Position straight end of the S&S breather hose over the 1⁄ 2 “barb to connect to the Victory hose. Slide clamp over connection. F- See Pictures 3 and 4 for breather hose and barometric pressuresensor hose installation positions. NOTE: S&S breather hose can be cut for best fit
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011
1. Refer to Owners Manual to drain engine oil and remove oil filter. 2. See Figure 1. Remove oil feed hose (1) from oil pump. 3. Remove oil feed hose fitting from engine crankcase. Discard oil feed hose. INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 2 and Table 1. Apply Hylomar Gasket and Thread Sealant to threads of fitting (1) and install fitting to oil pump. 2. Apply Hylomar Gasket and Thread Sealant to threads of fitting (1) and install fitting to crankcase. 3. Tighten fittings to 55-65 in-lbs (6.2-7.4 Nm) . 1 2 3 1 is04015 1. Fitting 2. Oil Hose Cooler Supply 3. Oil Hose Cooler Return Figure 2. Oil Hose Cooler Return and Supply Assmeblies 4. Loosely install oil cooler return hose assembly (3) to crankcase fitting. 5. Loosely install oil cooler supply hose assembly (2) to oil pump fitting. 6. See Figure 3 for proper oil hose routing. The oil supply hose (1) should be the upper hose and the oil return hose (2) the lower hose 1 2 is04018 1. Oil Supply Hose 2. Oil Return Hose Figure 3. Oil Cooler Hose Routing 7. Remove two existing clips holding the clutch cable and wire harness from the left frame downtube. 8. See Figure 4 and Table 1. Position oil cooler clamps (7) in approximately the same position as the clips that were removed from the frame downtube. 9. Loosely attach oil cooler (4) to the clamps (7) using screws (9) and nuts (8). 10. Attach oil return hose (3) to the inboard connection of oil cooler (4) with worm clamp (5).
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011
1. Remove the rider and passenger seats, left chrome side cover & original horn located at the top of the radiator. 2. Locate the supplied black horn mounting bracket and supplied smaller hose clamp. Notice the slight twist in the bracket. Using 2 adjustable wrenches or a vise and one wrench remove the twist from the bracket. Route the hose clamp thru the bracket. (As shown in photo 1A) 3. Install the bracket on to the left frame tube, (As shown in photo 1A) and tighten securely. Bolt the supplied horns to the bracket using the supplied bolt, lock washer and nut, (As shown in photo 1) and tighten securely. Install the supplied trumpet covers (As shown in photo 1B) by flexing the spring clips over the trumpets. Check that they fit securely. If not remove covers, make sure the center screw is tight and bend spring clips in towards center of covers and re-install. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two supplied hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns cut a new piece of hose 3 ½” long from the hose and replace the short hose on the “Y”. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly with the short hose going on the long or upper trumpet. (See photo 1C) Re-route the original horn wires. (As shown in photo 1D) 4. From the supplied wire cut 2 pieces 28″ long. Strip ¼” of insulation from both ends. Crimp 2 supplied male terminals to one end and 2 supplied female spade terminals to the other end. Plug the male ends into the original horns wires. (As shown in 1D) Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y”. Tape the hose and wires together every 6-8″ using electrical tape to make routing easier and neater. Route the wires and hose up under the fuel tank, over the cylinder heads coming out between the frame rails at the rear of the fuel tank. (See photo 2A) Locate the supplied relay and plug the 2 wires from the original horn onto terminals 85 & 86 on the relay. (See wiring diagram on back of last page of instructions) This will be the 2 outer terminals that are parallel to each other. Locate the supplied fuse, holder & wire assembly. Crimp a supplied fork terminal to one end and a supplied female spade to the other. Attach the spade terminal to one of the remaining outer relay terminals. (#30 or 87 on wiring diagram) Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the battery top cover. Remove the cover and attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the positive (+) terminal. Re-install the battery cover. 5. Cut a wire 9″ long and strip ¼” insulation from each end, crimp a fork to one end and a female spade to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors negative (-) terminal. Cut another wire 18″ long and strip both ends. Crimp a female spade to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressor positive (+) terminal. Route the air hose out under the left side cover as shown in photo (3). Hold the compressor in place against the frame tube. Note: Looking at the large end of the compressor the space between the hose fitting and the bolt mounting flange forms a “V” shape. This is where the compressor should rest against the frame. Next loop the hose around to the compressor hose fitting and trim the hose to the desired length. Attach the hose to the compressor. Secure the compressor to the frame using 2 large supplied cable ties as shown. 6. (See photo 3A) Attach the compressor negative (-) wire to the bolt on the frame (As shown in photo 3B) Route the compressor positive (+) wire along the side up to the relay and attach to the remaining outer terminal 87 or 30. Cable tie the relay in place. (As shown in photo 2B) Use several of the supplied short cable ties to secure the compressor wires to the air hose (As shown in photo 3) as wells as any other loose wire or hose.
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-12-2010
1. Remove the right and left frame side covers and the seat. 2. Unplug and remove the stock horn located behind the left foot peg. Re-route the horn wires up over the front cylinder head and to the rear. Next cut two pieces of wire 36″ long, strip both ends ¼”, crimp two male spade terminals to one end and two females to the other ends. Attach these wires to the stock horn wires and route them over the rear cylinder and behind the frame tube. The end of the wires should come out near the center of the left side cover area (see photo 1 A). Connect these two wires to the relay terminals 85 & 86 (these will be the two that are parallel to each other see wiring diagram for terminal identification). 3. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns. Cut a new piece of hose 2 ¾” long, replace the old short hose on the “Y” with this. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly onto the horns with the short hose on the long trumpet, route the hoses behind the horns and connect the long hose to the short horn (see photo 2A). 4. Remove the upper 8mm (12mm wrench size) motor mount bolt (see photo 2B). Install the horn assembly using the 8 x 55mm bolt and spacer tube provided. If the motorcycle is fitted with Honda line tubular radiator or engine guards the above mounting will not work. You will need instead to locate the “J” shaped bracket and small hose clamp provided in the hardware kit (see photo 2 on instructions of multi -application instruction sheet). Thread the hose clamp thru the bracket and attach to the frame or Honda line guards as shown ( see photos 2&3 ) tighten the hose clamp securely using a socket or wrench. Attach the horn set to the “J” bracket using the 5/16 x ¾” bolt, nut and lock washer provided. Position the horns so that they are angled down just slightly then tighten the bolt securely. Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y” connector, route the hose up over the top and to the rear of the engine. Cross the hose over to the right side of the rear cylinder head, then behind the electricals of the right side cover and coming out as shown ( see photo 3 A & B ). 5. Remove the center relay from its mounting bracket by lifting it upward and re-attach it lower and at an angle as shown (see photo 3C) using a small cable tie. Route two long cable ties thru the hole in the relay mounting bracket as shown (see photo 3D). Next cut a 16″ wire, strip both ends, crimp female spades to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressors pos (+) terminal. Cut an 8″ wire, strip both ends, crimp a female spade to one end and a fork terminal to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors neg. (-) terminal. Cable tie the compressor securely in place as shown (see photo 4). Route the hose to the compressor making sure there are no tight bends or kinks cut the hose to the desired length and attach it to the compressor. Route the neg. (-) wire with the fork terminal up and attach it to the 10 mm bolt as shown (see photo 4A) . Route the pos. (+) wire over to the relay on the left side of the motorcycle and attach it to terminal 30 or 87 on the relay (see wiring diagram)
Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010
Motorcycle cylinders work quite independently compared to automobiles. Separate carburation, intake manifolds, exhaust pipes and sometimes even independent air filters allow the cylinders to be tuned so that one may be making more power than another. This can be due to differences in air flow, temperature, injection, or valve adjustment betwen the cylinders. Periodically, the cylinders should be synchronized. This is usually done by comparing intake manifold vacuum beneath each throttle and trimming the mixture until balanced. Some old-timers will tell you it can be done by ear, listening to the air flow in each carb throat through a tube stuck in your ear. Most modern tuners have switched to mercury sticks. Rigid tubes stuck in a bath of mercury are attached to the vacuum source. The vacuum draws the mercury up the sticks in proportion to pressure difference between the manifold and the atmosphere. In order to smooth out the individual vacuum pulses, a damping device is needed. This is nothing more than a small orifice (pin hole) restriction in the lines, placed close to the manifold with an air reservoir (length of tube) behind it. Because there is no real air flow in the gauges, there is no pressure drop across the orifice. But when the manifold vacuum drops there is a delay before the gauge pressure can bleed off and it appears steady and readable. Other types of vacuum gauges include mercury-less versions (that draw metal rods), or traditional needle, or “clock” gauges. The clock gauges are very fast acting (they are designed that way so you can see engine problems such as sticking valves). You will definitely need a damper if you choose a clock gauge. I would recommend using two side by side gauges for checking cylinder synch. The reason is, the cylinders are not perfectly independent. As one cylinder drops strength, the idle drops, and this will change the vacuum in the second cylinder’s manifold. It takes a bit of fooling around to get a cause-and-effect feel when you are turning the screws. Swapping gauges would make this difficult