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Victory Freedom Engines Installation Instructions for S&S Air Cleaner Kit

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1-Locate and remove the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Locate the new position for the IATS on the bottom of the S&S air cleaner. Push the IATS in the lower air cleaner cover and turn1⁄ 4 turnin either direction, make sure you feel it lock into place. Inspect from the inside of the air cleaner to ensure that the barbs are locked into place. See Picture 1. 2-Using the stock Polaris Victory air box gasket (PN 5811908) and S&S supplied (Qty 4) M6 fasteners, assemble the lower air cleaner cover to the throttle body using 243 Blue Loctite®on the treads. Torque the M6 fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. 3-Position the S&S pre-formed air filter onto the lower air cleaner cover ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 4-Install the top air cleaner cover on top of the filter ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 5-Make surethat the filter is situated in the machined grooves on both the top and bottom air cleaner covers. 6-Using 243 Blue Loctite on the threads of the S&S supplied (Qty 3) M6 fasteners tighten down top air cleaner cover evenly until seated. Finish torque the fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. Now you’re ready for breather hose and barometric pressure hose routing. 7-Locate the S&S supplied 3⁄ 16 “reinforced hose and clamps. Push one end of the hose on the 3⁄ 16 “brass barb in the bottom air cleaner cover and slide clamp up around the end of the hose. The other end of the hose is for the Barometric Pressure Sensor (MAP). Route the hose towardthe back of the engine over the top of the rear rocker cover. 8-Remove the MAP sensor from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Remove the orange rubber gasket from the MAP sensor. Slide the S&S supplied clamp over the 3⁄ 16 “rubber hose that leads to the air cleaner. Push the barbed end of the MAP sensor into the 3⁄ 16 ” rubber hose and slide clamp up to the end of the hose around the barb. A small amount of lubricant may be applied to the barb on the MAP sensor to make installation easier. 2 S&S Air Cleaner Assembly 41-0021 (Calibration cardnot shown) Picture 1 CAUTION WARNING WARNING Plastic barb locked in recess.
9-Assemble and install breather hose as follows: A-Cut the stock Victory®hose on the straight section just behind the 90 degree bend as shown in Picture 2 . B-Slide an S&S supplied 1⁄ 2 “hose clamp over the modified stock breather hose. C-Install the S&S straight barb in Victory breather hose and position a hose clamp around hose end. D-Slide the 90-degree end of breather hose over the brass barb on the air cleaner cover and slide hose clamp in place. E-Position straight end of the S&S breather hose over the 1⁄ 2 “barb to connect to the Victory hose. Slide clamp over connection. F- See Pictures 3 and 4 for breather hose and barometric pressuresensor hose installation positions. NOTE: S&S breather hose can be cut for best fit

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HARLEY DAVIDSON XL PREMIUM OIL COOLER KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Refer to Owners Manual to drain engine oil and remove oil filter. 2. See Figure 1. Remove oil feed hose (1) from oil pump. 3. Remove oil feed hose fitting from engine crankcase. Discard oil feed hose. INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 2 and Table 1. Apply Hylomar Gasket and Thread Sealant to threads of fitting (1) and install fitting to oil pump. 2. Apply Hylomar Gasket and Thread Sealant to threads of fitting (1) and install fitting to crankcase. 3. Tighten fittings to 55-65 in-lbs (6.2-7.4 Nm) . 1 2 3 1 is04015 1. Fitting 2. Oil Hose Cooler Supply 3. Oil Hose Cooler Return Figure 2. Oil Hose Cooler Return and Supply Assmeblies 4. Loosely install oil cooler return hose assembly (3) to crankcase fitting. 5. Loosely install oil cooler supply hose assembly (2) to oil pump fitting. 6. See Figure 3 for proper oil hose routing. The oil supply hose (1) should be the upper hose and the oil return hose (2) the lower hose 1 2 is04018 1. Oil Supply Hose 2. Oil Return Hose Figure 3. Oil Cooler Hose Routing 7. Remove two existing clips holding the clutch cable and wire harness from the left frame downtube. 8. See Figure 4 and Table 1. Position oil cooler clamps (7) in approximately the same position as the clips that were removed from the frame downtube. 9. Loosely attach oil cooler (4) to the clamps (7) using screws (9) and nuts (8). 10. Attach oil return hose (3) to the inboard connection of oil cooler (4) with worm clamp (5).

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HONDA VTX1300 AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the rider and passenger seats, left chrome side cover & original horn located at the top of the radiator. 2. Locate the supplied black horn mounting bracket and supplied smaller hose clamp. Notice the slight twist in the bracket. Using 2 adjustable wrenches or a vise and one wrench remove the twist from the bracket. Route the hose clamp thru the bracket. (As shown in photo 1A) 3. Install the bracket on to the left frame tube, (As shown in photo 1A) and tighten securely. Bolt the supplied horns to the bracket using the supplied bolt, lock washer and nut, (As shown in photo 1) and tighten securely. Install the supplied trumpet covers (As shown in photo 1B) by flexing the spring clips over the trumpets. Check that they fit securely. If not remove covers, make sure the center screw is tight and bend spring clips in towards center of covers and re-install. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two supplied hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns cut a new piece of hose 3 ½” long from the hose and replace the short hose on the “Y”. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly with the short hose going on the long or upper trumpet. (See photo 1C) Re-route the original horn wires. (As shown in photo 1D) 4. From the supplied wire cut 2 pieces 28″ long. Strip ¼” of insulation from both ends. Crimp 2 supplied male terminals to one end and 2 supplied female spade terminals to the other end. Plug the male ends into the original horns wires. (As shown in 1D) Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y”. Tape the hose and wires together every 6-8″ using electrical tape to make routing easier and neater. Route the wires and hose up under the fuel tank, over the cylinder heads coming out between the frame rails at the rear of the fuel tank. (See photo 2A) Locate the supplied relay and plug the 2 wires from the original horn onto terminals 85 & 86 on the relay. (See wiring diagram on back of last page of instructions) This will be the 2 outer terminals that are parallel to each other. Locate the supplied fuse, holder & wire assembly. Crimp a supplied fork terminal to one end and a supplied female spade to the other. Attach the spade terminal to one of the remaining outer relay terminals. (#30 or 87 on wiring diagram) Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the battery top cover. Remove the cover and attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the positive (+) terminal. Re-install the battery cover. 5. Cut a wire 9″ long and strip ¼” insulation from each end, crimp a fork to one end and a female spade to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors negative (-) terminal. Cut another wire 18″ long and strip both ends. Crimp a female spade to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressor positive (+) terminal. Route the air hose out under the left side cover as shown in photo (3). Hold the compressor in place against the frame tube. Note: Looking at the large end of the compressor the space between the hose fitting and the bolt mounting flange forms a “V” shape. This is where the compressor should rest against the frame. Next loop the hose around to the compressor hose fitting and trim the hose to the desired length. Attach the hose to the compressor. Secure the compressor to the frame using 2 large supplied cable ties as shown. 6. (See photo 3A) Attach the compressor negative (-) wire to the bolt on the frame (As shown in photo 3B) Route the compressor positive (+) wire along the side up to the relay and attach to the remaining outer terminal 87 or 30. Cable tie the relay in place. (As shown in photo 2B) Use several of the supplied short cable ties to secure the compressor wires to the air hose (As shown in photo 3) as wells as any other loose wire or hose.

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2000 YAMAHA YZF-R1 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-11-2010

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CABLE ROUTING SPEC AProperly insert the meter assembly coupler and rubber boot into the meter assembly. BRoute the meter assembly lead through the left side of the headlight housing. CThe speedometer lead with not be tighten. DInstall the headlight relays onto the headlight housing bridge. EConnect to the right front turn signal connectors. FRoute the turn signal leads upper the headlight housing boss. 1 Clutch cable 2 Left handlebar switch lead 3 Starter cable 4 Main switch lead 5 Steering cover EB206000 CABLE ROUTING -21- NRoute the thermo switch/temperature sender sub- wire harness to the outside of the radiator cap. ORoute the right handlebar switch lead behind the throttle cables. Do not cross the throttle cables and the right handlebar switch lead. PRoute the right handlebar switch lead in front of the throttle cables. GFasten the headlight lead with a plastic clamp at white tape mark. HFasten the wire harness to the headlight housing boss with a plastic locking tie. IRoute the headlight lead through the plastic guide. JRoute the throttle cable to the front side of the brake hose. KRoute the clutch cable behind the front fork leg. LMake sure that the horn leads face out. MRoute the throttle cables and right handlebar switch lead between the lower bracket and steering cover. CABLE ROUTING SPEC -22- CRoute the rollover-valve-to-fuel-tank hose to the inside of the fuel hose (California only). DRoute the coolant reservoir breather hose over the timing chain tensioner. EInsert the plastic clip through the hole in the plastic frame panel and then fasten the wire harness and coolant reservoir breather hose with it. FRoute the clutch cable between the radiator bracket and frame and in front of the thermostat assembly breather hose. GRoute the clutch cable to the inside of the radiator inlet hose. HInsert the plastic clamp into the hole in the coolant reservoir’s tab

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YAMAHA YZF-R6R/ YZF-R6SR/ YZF-R6RC/ YZF-R6SRC SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 26-04-2011

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CABLE ROUTING SPEC A Pass the right handlebar switch lead inside the front brake hoses and over the throttle cables. B Install the throttle cables to the hook so that the pulling side of the throttle cables is routed downward. C Pass the clutch cable through the guide. D Plastic locking tie shall be positioned at 10 mm (0.39 in.) below from the upper bracket. E Clamp the left handlebar switch lead to the front fork with the plastic locking tie and cut the tip of the tie. Clamp it to the protector section Set in the coupler between the head light’s hollow section and the duct. J Install the relay to the rib of the head light. (Location for the left and right relays is alternative.) K To the wire harness L To the front turn signal light (right) M Set the sub wire harness in the joint. N Do not catch the sub wire harness when the duct is assembled. O To the front turn signal light (left) P Point the tip of the plastic locking tie to the front side of the vehicle. Cut the tip leaving 2 X 10 mm (0.08 X 0.39 in). Q Point the tip of the plastic locking tie under the under bracket and rear side of the vehicle. Cut the tip leaving 2 X 10 mm (0.08 X 0.39 in) A Pass the main switch lead under the left handlebar switch lead and then to the right side of the vehicle. B Pass the throttle stop cable by the left side of the side stand switch lead, oil level switch lead, A.C. magneto lead and then to the right side of the vehicle. C Pass the fuel tank drain hose and fuel tank breather hose inside of the reservoir tank breather hose, reservoir tank hose and wire harness and then route it by the out side of the starter motor lead. D Pass the coolant reservoir tank hose outside of the fuel tank drain hose and fuel tank breather hose. E Pass the fuel tank drain hose, fuel tank breather hose through the clamp of the coolant reservoir tank

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HONDA VTX 1800 AIR HORNS AHVTX INSTALATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-12-2010

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1. Remove the right and left frame side covers and the seat. 2. Unplug and remove the stock horn located behind the left foot peg. Re-route the horn wires up over the front cylinder head and to the rear. Next cut two pieces of wire 36″ long, strip both ends ¼”, crimp two male spade terminals to one end and two females to the other ends. Attach these wires to the stock horn wires and route them over the rear cylinder and behind the frame tube. The end of the wires should come out near the center of the left side cover area (see photo 1 A). Connect these two wires to the relay terminals 85 & 86 (these will be the two that are parallel to each other see wiring diagram for terminal identification). 3. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns. Cut a new piece of hose 2 ¾” long, replace the old short hose on the “Y” with this. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly onto the horns with the short hose on the long trumpet, route the hoses behind the horns and connect the long hose to the short horn (see photo 2A). 4. Remove the upper 8mm (12mm wrench size) motor mount bolt (see photo 2B). Install the horn assembly using the 8 x 55mm bolt and spacer tube provided. If the motorcycle is fitted with Honda line tubular radiator or engine guards the above mounting will not work. You will need instead to locate the “J” shaped bracket and small hose clamp provided in the hardware kit (see photo 2 on instructions of multi -application instruction sheet). Thread the hose clamp thru the bracket and attach to the frame or Honda line guards as shown ( see photos 2&3 ) tighten the hose clamp securely using a socket or wrench. Attach the horn set to the “J” bracket using the 5/16 x ¾” bolt, nut and lock washer provided. Position the horns so that they are angled down just slightly then tighten the bolt securely. Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y” connector, route the hose up over the top and to the rear of the engine. Cross the hose over to the right side of the rear cylinder head, then behind the electricals of the right side cover and coming out as shown ( see photo 3 A & B ). 5. Remove the center relay from its mounting bracket by lifting it upward and re-attach it lower and at an angle as shown (see photo 3C) using a small cable tie. Route two long cable ties thru the hole in the relay mounting bracket as shown (see photo 3D). Next cut a 16″ wire, strip both ends, crimp female spades to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressors pos (+) terminal. Cut an 8″ wire, strip both ends, crimp a female spade to one end and a fork terminal to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors neg. (-) terminal. Cable tie the compressor securely in place as shown (see photo 4). Route the hose to the compressor making sure there are no tight bends or kinks cut the hose to the desired length and attach it to the compressor. Route the neg. (-) wire with the fork terminal up and attach it to the 10 mm bolt as shown (see photo 4A) . Route the pos. (+) wire over to the relay on the left side of the motorcycle and attach it to terminal 30 or 87 on the relay (see wiring diagram)

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Aprilia Falco Synchronizing the Cylinder Vacuum

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Motorcycle cylinders work quite independently compared to automobiles. Separate carburation, intake manifolds, exhaust pipes and sometimes even independent air filters allow the cylinders to be tuned so that one may be making more power than another. This can be due to differences in air flow, temperature, injection, or valve adjustment betwen the cylinders. Periodically, the cylinders should be synchronized. This is usually done by comparing intake manifold vacuum beneath each throttle and trimming the mixture until balanced. Some old-timers will tell you it can be done by ear, listening to the air flow in each carb throat through a tube stuck in your ear. Most modern tuners have switched to mercury sticks. Rigid tubes stuck in a bath of mercury are attached to the vacuum source. The vacuum draws the mercury up the sticks in proportion to pressure difference between the manifold and the atmosphere. In order to smooth out the individual vacuum pulses, a damping device is needed. This is nothing more than a small orifice (pin hole) restriction in the lines, placed close to the manifold with an air reservoir (length of tube) behind it. Because there is no real air flow in the gauges, there is no pressure drop across the orifice. But when the manifold vacuum drops there is a delay before the gauge pressure can bleed off and it appears steady and readable. Other types of vacuum gauges include mercury-less versions (that draw metal rods), or traditional needle, or “clock” gauges. The clock gauges are very fast acting (they are designed that way so you can see engine problems such as sticking valves). You will definitely need a damper if you choose a clock gauge. I would recommend using two side by side gauges for checking cylinder synch. The reason is, the cylinders are not perfectly independent. As one cylinder drops strength, the idle drops, and this will change the vacuum in the second cylinder’s manifold. It takes a bit of fooling around to get a cause-and-effect feel when you are turning the screws. Swapping gauges would make this difficult

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2006 Kawasaki Ninja 650R DOT Racer Front Brake Hose Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove factory brake hoses, noting routing. Cap off master cylinder and caliper ports. 2. Install straight-bent banjo ends of Russell Left and Right hoses onto their respective calipers. Use factory single-banjo bolt from master cylinder to install Right hose onto caliper (See Fig. 1) . 3. Route hoses up through factory wire retainers to master cylinder (See Fig. 2, view from top). Use factory double-banjo bolt to install hoses onto master cylinder. Side-bent banjo of Right hose goes next to master cylinder, points toward center of bike, and rests against stop. Orient Left hose banjo so that hose runs parallel to Right hose (See Fig. 3) . 4. Locate hoses to fender using factory plastic clips around grommets on hoses at factory mounting points (See Fig. 4, Right side shown). 5. Check hose clearance throughout entire steering and suspension travel range. 6. Bleed the system and check for leaks while applying pressure

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Air Shock Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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Air HoseInstallation. Choose the most convenient loca- tiononyour motorcycle for the air fill valve. Drilla 5/16″hole and install the air fill valve as shown in Figure 3orsecure air fill valve to frame tube. 2. Keep hose ends clean during installation because dirt can cause air leaks. 3. Install hose connector, tube clamp and two O-rings onto one end of the air hose (See Figures4&5) Apply rubber lubricant (soap solution, not oil) to the O-rings to ease installation on the air hose& into the shock absorber inlet. Plastic connector should just bottom on fitting. Do not overtighten! The function of the nut is to hold everything together in place, the O- rings do the sealing. Fin- gertightenonly (10 in/lb maximum). 4. After routing the air hose, trim the length to fit air fill valve. Install hose connector, tube clamp, and twoO-rings onto end of hose (See figures 4&5). Lubricate as above and assemble to air fill valve. Use the same procedure formating hose. Important —leaveasmall amount of slack in hose near shock absorber to allow for the slight move- mentofthe shock. Caution! Do not install hose near ex- haustsystem, battery or any other sharp edges or seat movement. Keep hoses clear of moving parts such as wheels or suspension components. Do not allow hoses to have excess slack and sag below the motorcycle. The hoses could catch on road surfaces or debris and could be damaged while the motorcycle is in motion. 5. If necessary the air hose can be secured along the motorcycle’swiringharness with tie-wraps. 6. Testing: Inflate system to 50 psi. Apply soapy water solution to all connections and check for air leaks. If there are any leaks, disconnect the suspected fitting and check for dirt or damage to the air line or the O-rings. Remove any dirt or foreign matter, re-lubricate the O-rings and reinstall. If unable to locate the leak, remove rubber boot from shocks and submerge pressurized components under water (in- cludingT-Valve) and check for leaks. If you cannot solve the air leak problem, please contact our technical staff for assistance

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YAMAHA ROAD STAR LONGSHOT EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 28-12-2010

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1. Remove the header flange nuts from the rear cylinder. 2. Loosen the muffler clamp on the front head pipe. 3. Remove the two muffler mounting bracket bolts, located between the two mufflers. 4. Carefully separate the front head pipe from the muffler assembly. Remove the muffler assembly with the rear head pipe attached and set it aside. 5. Remove the header flange nuts from the front cylinder. Remove the front head pipe and set it aside. 6. Remove the muffler mounting bracket from the frame. Note: The rear brake hose must be disconnected from the rear brake caliper in order to remove the muffler mounting bracket. INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Reconnect the brake hose to the rear caliper. Important : Bleed the rear brake to remove any air from the system and refill the reservoir with the proper brake fluid. 2. Install the new mounting bracket (stamped 274) to the frame, by aligning the two 10mm holes in the bracket with the two holes in the frame below the right rear footrest (where the stock mounting bar was removed). Use the two 10mm bolts and lock nuts (supplied), do not tighten at this time. Note: The bracket will bend away from the motorcycle when mounted correctly. Refer to figure 1. 3. Connect the brake hose clip to the muffler mounting bracket, using the 6mm bolt and lock nut (supplied). Refer to figure 1. 4. Install the chrome flanges (supplied) on to both the new head pipes. 5. Check the stock exhaust gaskets to be sure they are in good shape. If you have any doubts as to their condition, replace them. 6. Install the front head pipe using the stock nuts, do not tighten at this time. 7. Install the rear head pipe using the stock nuts, do not tighten at this time. 8. Install one muffler clamp (supplied) over the front (notched end) of each muffler. 9. Slip one muffler onto the front head pipe. Slide one dog bone shaped nut plate under the bracket that is welded to the backside of the muffler and attach the muffler to the mounting bracket using two of the 5/16″ flange head bolts (supplied), but leave them loose at this time. 10. Repeat step #8 for the rear muffler. 11. Align the mufflers so they are parallel when viewing from the right side of the bike, and tighten the 5/16″ flange bolts on the back side of both mufflers. 12. Tighten the two 10mm bolts that mount the bracket to the frame. 13. Unscrew all of the hose clamps (supplied) until they are completely loose. Feed the tail end of the hose clamp into the clips on the inside of both heat shields. Note: The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible, but not visible when pipe is mounted on the bike. 14. Place the appropriate heat shield onto the rear pipe, wrap the hose clamps around the head pipe and tighten. Repeat this step with the front heat shield

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