yamaha royal star carburetor problems

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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Yamaha Royalstar Royal Star Tour Deluxe Speedo Healer Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-01-2012

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he speed sensor is on the left side (looking from the back towards the front of the motorcycle). Just FYI, here is the speed sensor coming off of the drive shaft behind the left saddlebag. – 7/2 -The speed sensor connection for the Speedo Healer is behind this red cover. Take off the seat. There are two screws. One pointed out by the arrow and one on the opposite side. Also, remove the screw on the red cover. After removing the screw on the red cover, remove the cover by pulling it straight away from the bike. It is held on by 2 rubber grommets. – 7/3 -The arrow points to the speed sensor coupler. Pull the connection apart. There is a little tab holding the connector together that will need to be depressed in order to get it apart. – 7/4 -Hook the SH harness into the appropriate connectors. It only goes one way. The Yamaha plug and go kit works perfectly with no splicing required. Here is a close-up of the connection. – 7/5 -Run the cable up under the bar towards the battery and hook the wires up to the Speedo Healer unit. – 76 -The speedo healer fits nicely right behind the battery. You can barely see it next to the intercom. Note, none of the wires in this example have been secured yet. Put the red cover back on. Figure out the error that needs to be adjusted and make the adjustments to the Speed Healer per their instructions. Put the seat back on and you’re good to go. Be sure to verify that your adjustment was correct before believing your speedometer to be accurate. With the right adjustment, it will be, but don’t wait for a cop to tell you that you miscalculated! The electronic cruise control was not affected by the installation of this unit. I ended up setting mine to -7.5% after chasing my wife’s ’03 Vue for a couple of times. I ended up reading 59mph to her 60mph (previously it read 65mph to her 60mph) which is right where I wanted it since her speedometer reads a little fast, too. My back tire is about halfway worn. Your adjustment may vary

2005 Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe speedo Healer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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The speed sensor is on the left side (looking from the back towards the front of the motorcycle). Just FYI, here is the speed sensor coming off of the drive shaft behind the left saddlebag. The speed sensor connection for the Speedo Healer is behind this red cover. Take off the seat. There are two screws. One pointed out by the arrow and one on the opposite side. Also, remove the screw on the red cover. After removing the screw on the red cover, remove the cover by pulling it straight away from the bike. It is held on by 2 rubber grommets. The arrow points to the speed sensor coupler. Pull the connection apart. There is a little tab holding the connector together that will need to be depressed in order to get it apart.Hook the SH harness into the appropriate connectors. It only goes one way. The Yamaha plug and go kit works perfectly with no splicing required. Here is a close-up of the connection. Run the cable up under the bar towards the battery and hook the wires up to the Speedo Healer unit. The speedo healer fits nicely right behind the battery. You can barely see it next to the intercom. Note, none of the wires in this example have been secured yet. Put the red cover back on. Figure out the error that needs to be adjusted and make the adjustments to the Speed Healer per their instructions. Put the seat back on and you’re good to go. Be sure to verify that your adjustment was correct before believing your speedometer to be accurate. With the right adjustment, it will be, but don’t wait for a cop to tell you that you miscalculated! The electronic cruise control was not affected by the installation of this unit. I ended up setting mine to -7.5% after chasing my wife’s ’03 Vue for a couple of times. I ended up reading 59mph to her 60mph (previously it read 65mph to her 60mph) which is right where I wanted it since her speedometer reads a little fast, too. My back tire is about halfway worn. Your adjustment may vary

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V-Star 1100 And Dragstar 1100 Modification V-Star Driving/ Passing Lights Factory Chrome Light Bar Cover Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed

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Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 Drag Star/V-Star Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-04-2011

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Fortunately, Haynes cruises to the rescue with the introduction of its new Service and Repair Manual for all Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 models – XVS650 (‘97-’05), XVS650A Classic (‘98-’05), XVS1100 (‘99–’05) and XVS1100A Classic (‘00–’05). Hailed as “… essential reading for any biker tackling his own servicing…” by Motor Cycle News, Haynes manuals have an enviable reputation. The new manual provides fully illustrated, step-by-step instructions for DIY servicing, overhaul and repairs of the engine and transmission, fuel and ignition systems, suspension and steering, the braking system and the electrical system. Each task is given a spanner rating for complexity and experience required. Checking and adjusting the valve clearances is rated as three spanners out of five. There are full-colour sections on the history of the models, on daily preride hecks and those all-important wiring diagrams, plus tools required and Haynes Hints. For instance, when changing the brake fluid how to tell when all the old fluid has been displaced The section guiding readers

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Honda Shadow A.C.E. v. Yamaha V-Star 1100 Middleweight Import Cruiser Shootout

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Needle/ Jet Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-12-2011

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To install this needle and jet kit: • Remove carburetors from the engine per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Note: Always perform internal carburetor work in a clean area. • Remove the vacuum slide from each carburetor. • Remove the OEM needle, spacer and washers, noting order of assembly. (Note; the washers are used as shims to raise the needle, each is equivalent to ½ clip position, use these to fine tune the needle) • Counting from the top to the bottom, install the new Baron needle clip on groove #4 of the replacement Baron adjustable needles. The top is the blunt end of the needle. • Reinstall the OEM spacer and washers as shown in the figure below. • Reinstall the vacuum slides along with the diaphragm spring and reattach the diaphragm covers Note: Verify that the slides maintain their full range of movement! • Drain the fuel from the float bowls and remove the bowl covers. • Remove the OEM main jets and replace them with Baron’s supplied Mikuni main jets. Install the “base setting” main jets as indicated above. NOTE: V-Star 1100 carburetion runs staggered jetting! Make sure the front cylinder’s carburetor gets the larger main jet (numerically), and the rear cylinder’s carburetor gets the smaller main jet . Important! Extra jets have been included in your kit. These will help you fine-tune the carburetors for changing conditions. These conditions include climate and weather patterns in your area as well as exhaust equipment on your motorcycle. Barons determines the jet and clip recommendations that best suit your average riding conditions based upon information supplied to us at the time of your order. Changes in weather, altitude or modifications to your exhaust system may require jets other than those supplied. • Thoroughly clean the inside of the float bowls prior to reinstalling them. 311 #1 Industrial Way – Fallbrook, CA 92028 – USA Phone: (760) 731-1200 Fax: (760) 731-1284 E-mail: tech@baronscustom.com Website: www.baronscustom.com Included in this kit: (4)Mikuni main jets #107.5, 110, 112.5, 115, (2) titanium needles, (2) clips, (8) cap-head allen screws Tools required: 3-4-5 mm allen wrenches, 10&12 mm sockets, 10mm end wrench, phillips & flat screwdrivers, pliers, drill. Revision 4.0 • Reassemble the carburetors by reversing the order of above steps. Use the new supplied cap head Allen screws in place of the OEM Phillips head screws for the float bowls. • Locate the fuel mixture screws – they will either be a screw head or a brass plug. If it is a screw head, skip to step c . If you see a brass plug with a small hole in the center, proceed as follows: a. With a 5/32″ drill bit, carefully and slowly drill through the fuel mixture plugs

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YAMAHA ROYAL STAR VENTURE CENTERSTAND REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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Stand Installation. Locate the four mounting holes on the frame that correspond with the holes in the centerstand. Slide the front of the centerstand up into the frame and align the large bolt holes with those in the frame. Install the (2) 7/16″ x 1″ bolts with washers thru the frame and centerstand. Install the (2) 7/16″ nuts and make finger tight. (on California models the fuel tank vent canister must be removed and the hoses bypassed see note below) Pivot the rear of the centerstand up to align the (2) smaller holes in the stand with those in the frame. Insert a phillips screwdriver into one of the (2) remaining mounting holes and pry the other hole into alignment. Install one of the ¼” x ¾” bolt with a washer from the top down thru the frame and centerstand. Install the lock nut finger tight. Remove the screwdriver and install the remaining ¼”x¾” bolt washer and nut. Tighten the ¼ ” bolts securely 10-12 ft. lbs., then tighten the 7/16″ bolts securely 20-24 ft. lbs. 2. Stop Bumper Installation. Next install the centerstand-stop bumper and bracket onto the frame. Locate the bolt “A” in photo #1. Notice there is another 10 mm bolt just below it. Remove the lower bolt. Attach the bumper bracket to this hole using the longer bolt and washer supplied. The leg of the bracket with the bumper should face inward towards the center of the motorcycle. Adjust the height of the bracket to keep the pedal arm 3/8″ to ½” from the bottom of the exhaust pipe. Tighten securely. 3. Emissions Valve Relocation. You will notice that the right leg of the stand near the foot comes in contact with the emissions valve. The valve needs to be moved outward or to the right as you are sitting on the motorcycle approximately ¾”. This is done as follows: Remove the (2) 10 mm bolts holding the emission valve and bracket to the frame. See photo #2. With the hoses still attached pull the valve down to gain access to the (3) allen screws. Remove the (3) allen screws and (2) nuts holding the bracket to the valve, turn the bracket over and re-assemble the valve onto the bracket as shown in photo #3. Re-install the valve onto the frame. You may need to rotate the hose clamp clips out of the way and/or bend the entire valve bracket assembly outward slightly to gain clearance between the centerstand leg and foot. 4. Using Your New Centerstand. To put the motorcycle up onto the centerstand, hold the left handle bar and saddlebag guard rail. Using the ball of your right foot, lower the stand to the ground. Rock the motorcycle from side to side slightly until you feel both feet of the stand touching the ground. Now, put all of your weight on to the centerstand pedal (stand on it). Pull up and back on the grab rail using a rocking motion to rock the motorcycle up on to the stand. Remember it is a matter of using your body weight and leverage not lifting! 5. Getting the Bike Down off the Centerstand. Holding the left handle bar and saddlebag guardrail, firmly rock the motorcycle off the centerstand. You can also rock it off while sitting on the motorcycle.

Yamaha Venture Royal Star Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1) Secure motorcycle in an upright position. 2) Remove saddle bags 3) For hitch clearance you will need to install the enclosed muffler lowering spacers. 4) Attach forward brackets A (left) and B (right) to motorcycle rear crash bar with U-Bolts. Also attach brackets at the point where the saddle bag sub frame and rear crash bar connect using new bolt provided. 5) Attach rear brackets C (left) and D (right) to motorcycle rear frame using new bolts provided. See diagrams next page. Attach top portion first then bottom portion. 6) Attach brackets A and B to forward arms of receiver hitch. Brackets mount on BOTTOM of hitch arms. 7) Attach bottom of brackets C and D to rear of hitch. 8) Now tighten all bolts working from rear forward. 9) Replace saddle bags and double check all bolts for tightness. Hitch Diagrams InstaTrike Installation 1. Place your motorcycle on a smooth level surface and attach leveling jack stands. 2. Push the hitch mount into the receiver hitch. (this might be a little difficult until you get use to doing it. Removing the paint from the hitch mount and applying a little grease will help.) 3. Place the hitch pin through the receiver hitch and hitch mount ( alignment plate ). Install and tighten the tension bolt. 4. Align InstaTrike wheels. (initial installation only. Check periodically and realign if necessary) 5. Bolt leanstop braces to hitch. Be certain to replace washers/spacers in the same configuration as when you removed them. 6. Remove leveling jack stands. 7. Check all bolts for tightness. 8. You are now ready for the test ride. A. Keep your feet up! B. Ride slowly in first gear until you are comfortable with the Tow-Pac system.

YAMAHA XVZ 1300 Royal Star/ Venture SPEEDOMETER COWL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

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Speedometer Cowling Chrome 1 2 Alcohol Wipe 1 NOTE: Allow time for the 3M® brand quality tape to cure for 24 hours at 19-32° C before washing or waxing the motorcycle. INSTALLATION 1. Position the Speedometer Cowl in front of the Speedometer. The Cowl attaches to the Speedometer Cover, not on the rubber ring around the Speedometer. The Cowl should be symmetrically located in relation to the Speedometer, use the Speedometer markings as a reference. 2. Remove the red backing tape from the adhesive strip on the base of the Speedometer Cowl. 3. Position the Speedometer Cowl as done in step 1. Make any position adjustments now. 4. Firmly press the Speedometer Cowl in place on the Speedometer Cover. 5. Allow twenty-four hours for the adhesive to fully set before washing or waxing.

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