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KTM 250F Timing Chain Tensioner Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 19-10-2010

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1) Remove OEM Tensioner: On some models including the 250F motors, it may be necessary to put the engine at TDC before proceeding. Check your manual. This is not the case on the 450 and 530 single cam motors. • Remove the outer cover plug. • Remove the large cover with copper washer. • Using needle nose pliers grab the end of the OEM tensioner and pull it outward. Be careful not to damage the aluminum port or face. • If the O-ring did not come out with the tensioner, carefully reach into the port and remove it without pushing it further into the engine. 2) Install new Tensioner: • To prepare the new tensioner, set the spring aside. Put the new tensioner in the collapsed position. (They are packaged and shipped in the collapsed position.) If you have extended it, rotate the assembly until the “top” on the piston is facing up. Then a light tap from the bottom will release the ratchet. This will now allow the plunger to be retracted to about 1- 13/16″ (46mm). • Install the O-ring over the tensioner body, keeping it outboard of the ridge as shown. • Slide the tensioner assembly with O-ring (without the spring), into the engine port. The end (with the hex-head spring hole) should only protrude from the engine about 1/32″ (.75mm). • Install the cover and tighten. The copper washer should be tight. • Insert the spring through the cover port. As it is slowly inserted, you may hear clicks as it pushes the plunger inward while ratcheting. • Install and tighten the plug against the spring. Note: some 250F engines have a one piece cap. Slide the spring into the tensioner far enough to hold it, then capture it with the cap and tighten. • Start the engine and carefully check for oil leaks. Adjustment will occur internally as it is needed. No further maintenance of the tensioner is required

MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

HARlEY DAVIDSON AUTOMATIC PRIMARY CHAIN TENSIONER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual and remove seat. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 2. Disconnect negative (-) battery cable. 3. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual and remove primary cover. 3 1 2 5 4 is00561 1. Screw (2) 2. Anchor plate 3. Nut and washer 4. Manual tensioner 5. Screw (2) Figure 1. Manual Tensioner: 1985-2000 Models 4. For 1985-2000 model motorcycles, remove manual tensioner and replace the carriage bolt as follows: a. See Figure 1. Remove two screws (5) and nut and washer (3), and remove chain tensioner (4). b. Remove two screws (1) and anchor plate (2). c. Replace the carriage bolt in the anchor plate with the carriage bolt from the kit. d. Apply 2-3 drops of Loctite 262 (red) to the threads of the anchor plate mounting screws (1), then install anchor plate and two screws. Tighten screws to 12- 14 ft-lbs (16-19 Nm) . For 2001 and later model motorcycles, remove manual tensioner as follows: a. See Figure 2. Remove nut and washer (1) and remove chain tensioner (2) Removing the Autotensioner for Service 1. Use a tie wrap and secure the shoe to the base of the autotensioner, without securing it to the autotensioner bracket. This will retain the autotensioner adjustment for reinstallation during service. 2. Remove two autotensioner hex screws, and autotensioner. Resetting the Autotensioner 1. See Figure 5. Compress autotensioner wedge (1) and spring back to the base. 2. Hold wedge in position by inserting a hex wrench or pick tool through the hole in the base of the autotensioner. 3. See Figure 6. Move plastic autotensioner shoe (1) into place as shown. 4. If available, install shipping plate (2) to secure the shoe to the base. If it is not available, secure the shoe to the base with a tie wrap

Kawasaki KFX\ KLX 400 Camshafts Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the plug bolt from the back of the cam chain tensioner assembly. It is under pressure from the spring. Remove the spring and pin. Remove the bolts and tensioner assembly from the cylinder. Release the lock on the tensioner assembly and push the tensioner rod into the assembly so that it is fully retracted. Remove the eight 5mm Allen headed bolts that hold the cam caps in place. Remove the cam caps; be aware of the locating dowels in the caps to keep them from falling into the engine. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the caps to lift them off their dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobe as the pry point. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain; dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets and bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head. Set the exhaust camshaft into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. Check the location of the cam lobes. The camshafts are marked, and preset to 108-degree centers. If the lobes are not where they should be, adjust the positioning of the camshaft by rotating the sprocket one tooth on the chain. Do this until it is in the correct position as before you removed the camshafts. Check the positioning of the crankshaft for the TDC mark

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