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Pulsar XR 650R ELECTRIC-START KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Pulsar) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, side panels, muffler, and headers. 2. Disconnect the stator wires from their corresponding mates underneath the seat (trace the wires up from the left side case.) Un-route the stator wiring so it hangs free from the left side case. 3. Remove the stock shift lever and the left side engine case cover. You do not need to drain the oil from the engine. 4. Unbolt and remove the stator and wiring from the stock cover. Do not cut any wires. 5. The stock pulsar coil (small black box hanging from the stator) will have to be modified slightly to clear the ring gear before installation into the new cover. Remove (file or grind) about .030 inches of material from the base of the pulsar coil so that the base is flush with the face of the rest of the coil as shown in Photos 1 and 2. File Here Photo 2 Make flush with this surface Remove material here Photo 1 6. Install the stator and modified pulsar coil into the new engine case cover as shown in Photo 3. Use the three provided Phillips head bolts, split lock-washers, and plastic cable clamps to secure the wiring as shown. You will need to pull about ½” of extra wire through the grommet (Photo 4) to give you enough wire length for the grommet to sit in its case cutout. To do this, remove the electrical tape from the end of the stator wires and pull each wire individually through the grommet. Neither of the stock metal wire guides will be used when reinstalling the stator into the new case (Photo 5). 5/16″ cable clamps 1/8″ cable clamp Photo 3 Photo 5 Not Used Pull extra wire through grommet Photo 4 7. Remove the stock flywheel nut (An air impact tool works best to remove this nut without turning the motor). Remove the flywheel using the flywheel puller provided. 8. Locate the T and F marks on the stock flywheel (Photo 6). The T mark is used to adjust valve clearances and its location needs to be transferred to the ring gear. Scribe a line in the edge of the flywheel in line with the T mark as shown in Photo 7

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Yamaha WR motorcycle ProEFX 12V Hot Start Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 06-01-2012

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1. Remove seat, tank and shrouds. Remove existing hot start lever, cable and valve from the carburetor. 2. Tip: Clean all dirt from hot start bore and mating surfaces on the carburetor body with gas and a q-tip. 3. Tip: Use a small amount of Teflon tape (one wrap) on the threads of the aluminum mounting nut to ensure a water tight seal. 4. Install the Pro EFX hot start valve in the hot start bore (as shown in picture), with return spring, impact washer and delrin plunger in place. • Tip: Installation of the solenoid valve may require temporary rotation of the carburetor away from the top engine mount bracket. • Install with the solenoid valve assembly disconnected from wiring harness. • Screw in by hand and finish tightening with needle nose pliers. Do not over-tighten. Solenoid valve assembly: 5. Mount activation switch on preferred handle bar location. Pictured on clutch side, in place of the stock kill switch.
6. Route wiring harness around steering column and down frame backbone. Insert battery leads through slot in rubber protective boot. (follow existing wiring to battery) 7. Connect positive (red) and negative (black) leads to motorcycle battery. 8. Connect male and female terminals to wiring harness on previously installed solenoid valve assembly. 9. Depress activation button and listen for valve actuation. Plunger should freely “snap” between open and closed position in hot start bore, as activation button is depressed and released. If you don’t hear the valve “snap” open and closed, follow the trouble shooting guidelines or call /email for support. 10. Maintenance: Periodically ensure proper tightness of solenoid valve in carburetor body as part of standard motorcycle maintenance. Keep the battery terminal connections free from corrosion.

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2004 Honda CRF450R OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2010

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motorcycle can be kickstarted with the transmission in gear by disengaging the clutch before operating the kickstarter. Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (page 21, 23, 24). Cold Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. If the temperature is 35°C (95°F) or below, pull the choke knob fully out. 4. If the temperature is below 0°C (32°F), open the throttle two or three times. (The engine requires a richer mixture for starting in cold weather. When the throttle is so opened, the accelerator pump will feed extra fuel to the cylinder, thereby facilitating starting in cold weather.) 5. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion. (Do not open the throttle, As the carburetor is equipped with an accelerator pump, excessive fuel will be charged into the engine, and the spark plug will be fouled if the throttle is opened and closed repeatedly. Excessive fuel in the engine makes kick- starting difficult.) 6. About a minute after the engine starts, push the choke knob back all the way to fully OFF. If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly. (1) FUEL FILL CAP (2) BREATHER TUBE WARNING (1) FUEL VALVE (2) CHOKE KNOB Warm Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Starting the engine excessively charged with fuel by throttle blipping or other reasons: 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat kickstarter operation approximately 10 times very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from the engine. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Stopping The Engine 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Turn the fuel valve OFF. 3. Lightly open the throttle 2 – 3 times, and then close it. 4. Depress and hold the engine stop button until the engine stops completely. NOTE: • Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the carburetor to overflow. (1) THROTTLE GRIP (2) ENGINE STOP BUTTON Break-In Procedure Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km). During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. This same procedure should be followed each time when: • Piston is replaced • Rings are replaced • Cylinder is replaced • Crankshaft or crank bearing are replaced

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Vespa GTS Super Specification

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Filed Under (Vespa) by admin on 11-11-2010

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Gts super 300 ie Gts super 125 ie s 125cc s 50cc Gts 250 ie Gts 125cc LX 125cc LX 50cc 2 stroke Engine Single-cylinder, catalised, QUASAR 4 stroke, 4 valve electronic injection Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke with electronic injection Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke Single-cylinder HI-PER 2 stroke Single-cylinder, catalised, QUASAR 4 stroke, 4 valve electronic injection Single-cylinder, catalised, LEADER 4 stroke, 4 valve Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke Single-cylinder HI-PER 2 stroke Capacity 278cc 124cc 124cc 50cc 249cc 124cc 124cc 49cc Power 16.4 kW / 7500 rpm 10.5 Kw / 9500 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 3.2 Kw / 7500 rpm 15.7 Kw / 8500 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 2.5 Kw / 8500 rpm Max Torque 22Nm / 6500 rpm 12 Nm / 8000rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 4.4 Nm / 6500 rpm 20.1 Nm / 6500 rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 3.3 Nm / 6500 rpm Cooling Liquid Liquid Forced Air Forced Air Liquid Liquid Forced Air Forced Air Starter Electric Electric Electric and kick starter Electric and kick starter Electric Electric Electric and kick starter Electric and kick starter Transmission Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Front Suspension Single arm, dual chamber hydraulic shock absorber with coaxial spring Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Rear Suspension Two dual effect shock absorbers with adjustable preload Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Twin hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Twin hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Hydraulic shock absorber Front Brake ø 220mm disc brake 220mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake Rear Brake ø 220mm disc brake 220mm disc brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 110mm drum brake Front Tyre Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 12″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 110/70-11″ Rear Tyre Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 130/70 – 12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 120/70-10″ Running weight 158kg 158kg 114kg 96kg 151kg 145kg 114kg 96kg Length/Width/Height 2230mm / 755mm / 1170mm 1930mm / 755mm / 1930mm 1770mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1755mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1930mm / 755mm / 1170 mm 1940mm / 755mm / 1180 mm 1770mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1755mm / 740mm / 1140mm Fuel Tank Capacity 9 litres 9 litres 8.5 litres 8.5 litres 9.2 litres 10 litres 8.5 litres 8.5 litres Emmissions Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 2 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 2 Colours Rosso Dragon Nero Lucido Montebianco Rosso Dragon Nero Lucido Montebianco Taormina Nero Lucido Montebianco Taormina Nero Lucido Montebianco Marrone Terra Di Toscana Bronzo Perseo Nero Vulcano Blu Midnight

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MPS Electronic Engine Kill Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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blue wire should be connected to the normally open pole of the shift button. The Shift Button is a momentary type switch. The common pole of the shift button should be connected to a good ground and the normally open connects to the blue wire from the Electronic Engine Kill box. Electric Air Valve – The Electric Air Valve has two wires. These wires are interchangeable. One needs an ignition switched 12 volt power source. The other needs a ground signal when the shift button is depressed. The easiest way to do this is to locate the red and blue wires in the Electronic Engine Kill wire harness. Splice one Electric Air Valve wire into the red wire and splice the other Electric Air Valve wire into the blue. Once again soldering is the preferred method but you can use schotchlok splices. Setting Kill Time – Kill time is the amount of time the engine stays dead between gears during a shift. Generally the shorter the kill time the quicker the shift. The proper kill time will vary from bike to bike. Its generally better to start with to much kill time and work your way quicker. We generally start at around 75 ms. of kill time. The Kill Time is adjusted via a small potentiometer accessed through the grommet on the front of the unit. Using a small screwdriver Carefully turn the pot clockwise to the end of its travel. This is 100 ms of kill time. Now, carefully turn the pot screw counterclockwise to the end of its travel. This is 50 ms of kill time. Halfway in between is 75 ms. The pot only goes from 7 oclock to 5 oclock so don’t force it, they break easily! Testing The System – With no air in the system start the bike. Bring the rpm up to around 3000 rpm and push the shift button. You should hear a slight hesitation in the engine each time you depress the shift button. Once you establish that you have a engine kill when pushing the shift button remove the clevis pin from the shift cylinder and extend the shaft to the end of its travel. Air up the shifter to 120 psi. We also have onboard compressor kits available to conveniently fill the air tank on the fly or high pressure CO2 systems that can shift hundreds of times without refilling. With the engine off and the key on push the shift button

Remote Starter Integration for the 2007 Toyota Camry equipped with the Smart Key System with Push Button Start

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 15-06-2011

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Most of the connections will be done behind the Fuse box. This fuse box is located under the driver side underdash. Also, the vehicle’s TACH wire can be found inside vehicle, as per diagram below and it
is suggested to use this wire for the remote start tach source. The remote start hood pin
switch wire is the only wire which must be run into the engine compartment for safety

KAWASAKI MULE Electric Steering Installation Manual And Removal

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-05-2012

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Remove plastic center cap on steering wheel by prying off with a small screwdriver. Remove steering wheel nut and remove steering wheel by pulling up on wheel. If wheel is tight have a partner tap on the shaft while pulling up on wheel. Note: Do not mushroom threads on shaft. Remove all screws that retain dash to body of vehicle. Disconnect all electrical connections at back of dash. Mark all wires to ensure easy install. Remove lower steering shaft bolt at rack and pinion. Remove upper bolt at base of steering column. Remove the 2 bolts that retain the steering column to the frame and remove the column and the shaft assembly. Remove lower u-joint on steering column shaft & replace it with supplied u-joint. There is a welded wire retainer on the lower dash tube where the electric motor will sit. You will need to grind off this piece and smooth. Remove the master cylinder bolt closest to the driver side and discard bolt. Your motor and module has been shipped together bolted to the bracket. It is important to follow the install sequence to ensure a proper installation. The lower shaft on the steering motor is marked on the shaft and on the motor. These marks must not be changed. If you remove the shaft it needs to be installed back in the same spot.

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1982 Kawasaki KZ550C Electric Motorcycle Conversion Notes

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 03-12-2010

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Starting point: • 1982 Kawasaki KZ550C that I found in an alley near my house. Frame rust sanded and repainted. • Rebuilt front suspension ($25 for front fork oil seals, 1 weekend for repair) • Need-to-be-rebuilt front brake caliper • Need-to-be-replaced front master brake cylinder (expected ~$80) • Need-to-be-refurbished electrical wiring system and 12V battery • Working rear brake • Flat rear tire, patched with fix-a-flat (temporary repair), 77″ circumference. • In-tact 530 size 62″ chain with 36 tooth driven sprocket • Miscellaneous spare parts from 1978 Kawasaki KZ450, most of which fit on the 1982 frame, including an ignition switch and key. I started with a chassis I found in an alley near my house. It was in rough shape and needed some refurbishment before I could start the conversion. Most of refurbishment steps are listed above in bullets. In addition to the repainting and repair of important aspects of the bike, I also needed to remove the IC engine components and the grease caked on from years of IC use. The Clymer manual for this bike was helpful in this process, which was about $18 from [13]. Steps for removing the engine were as follows. I removed the seat and the gas tank. I removed the electrical system wiring and 12V battery holder. I then removed the carburetors (which took a lot of pushing and shoving) and air filter box. I then removed the drive socket cover and removed the drive socket from the engine drive shaft. This allowed me to slip the chain off of the drive socket after loosening the rear wheel to put slack into the chain. I slipped the chain off and let it rest on the rear wheel swing arm and drained the old motor oil. I then removed all of the engine mounting bolts and pushed the entire engine out of the right side of the bike. This took a lot of effort but it is possible to remove the engine without removing the piston heads as recommended in the Clymer manual. The engine weights about 60-70 lbs, so it was possible to handle with one person. I suggest using a flat car jack to help with engine removal. I will eventually sell the IC parts through Ebay

YAMAHA XV1700 PCR/ XV1700 PCRC OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 02-12-2010

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High beam indicator light “” 2. Right turn signal indicator light “” 3. Fuel level warning light “” 4. Engine trouble warning light “” 5. Left turn signal indicator light “” 6. Neutral indicator light “” 1. Speedometer INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS 3-4 3 EAU04436 Tachometer unit The electric tachometer allows the rider to monitor the engine speed and keep it within the ideal power range. The tachometer unit is equipped with the following: ● an odometer (which shows the total distance traveled) ● two tripmeters (which show the distance traveled since they were last set to zero) ● a fuel reserve tripmeter (which shows the distance traveled since the fuel level warning light came on) ● a meter lighting control ● a clock ● a self diagnosis device NOTE: ● Be sure to turn the key to “ON” before using the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons. ● To switch the odometer, the trip- meters and the fuel reserve trip- meter displays between kilometers and miles, press the “SELECT” button for at least two seconds. ECA00123 CAUTION: Do not operate the engine in the tachometer red zone. If operated in the red zone, the tachometer segments will start flashing to notify the rider. Red zone: 5,000 r/min and above 1. Tachometer 2. Clock 3. Odometer/tripmeter/fuel reserve tripmeter 4. “RESET” button 5. “SELECT” button 1. Tachometer red zone
INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS 3-5 3 Odometer and tripmeter modes Pushing the “SELECT” button switches the display between the odometer mode”ODO” and the tripmeter modes “TRIP 1″ and “TRIP 2″ in the following order: ODO→ TRIP 1 → TRIP 2 → ODO If the fuel level warning light comes on (see page 3-2), the odometer display will automatically change to the fuel reserve tripmeter mode “TRIP F” and start counting the distance traveled from that point. In that case, pushing the “SELECT” button switches the display between the various tripmeter and odometer modes in the following order: TRIP F → TRIP 1 → TRIP 2 → ODO → TRIP F To reset a tripmeter, select it by pushing the “SELECT” button, and then push the “RESET” button for at least one second. If you do not reset the fuel reserve tripmeter manually, it will reset itself automatically and the display will return to the prior mode after refueling and traveling 3mi (5km). Meter lighting control mode 1. Turn the key to “OFF”. 2. Push and hold the “SELECT” but- ton. 3. Turn the key to “ON”, and then after five seconds, release the “SELECT” button. 4. Push the “RESET” button to select the desired brightness. 5. Push the “SELECT” button to set the brightness level. 6. Turn the key to “OFF”. NOTE: When adjusting the meter lighting, the odometer display will indicate the brightness level. Clock mode To set the clock: 1. Push the “SELECT” button and “RESET” button together for at least two seconds. 2. When the hour digits start flashing, push the “RESET” button to set the hours. 3. Push the “SELECT” button, and the minute digits will start flashing. 4. Push the “RESET” button to set the minutes. 5. Push the “SELECT” button and then release it to start the clock. NOTE: ● After setting the clock, be sure to push the “SELECT” button before turning the key to “OFF”, otherwise the clock will not be set. ● To set the clock after the battery has been disconnected, first set the time to 1:00 AM, and then set the clock to the correct time

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REKLUSE MOTOR SPORTS Pro Start Clutch Harley-Davidson OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-11-2010

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REAK-IN PERIOD The ProStart clutch requires a short break-in period. During the break-in period, the ProStart should not be operated at steady engine speeds above 3000 RPMs for more than 10 minutes. Breaking-in the ProStart clutch equires start and stop cycles. Riding the ProStart clutch in stop-and-go city traffic for one hour will provide sufficient break-in. If you would like to accelerate the break-in period, find an empty parking lot with ample room and no other traffic. From a stop, bring the motorcycle to 20 miles per hour and then back to a stop. Repeat this process at least 20 times. MAINTENANCE Proper maintenance is important to ensure the longevity of the Rekluse ProStart clutch and the rest of the stock clutch components in your Harley- Davidson Motorcycle. Refer to your owner’s manual for proper primary chaincase oil levels and oil type. Rekluse recommends the use of Harley- Davidson Primary Chaincase lubricant with the Rekluse ProStart clutch. Do not use oils designed for use as automotive engine oil in your Primary Chaincase. If Harley-Davidson Primary Chaincase lubricant is not readily available, a premium-quality Diesel engine oil, such as Shell Rotella T, that does not contain friction modifiers may be substituted. Inspection and adjustment of the Rekluse ProStart clutch should only be performed by a service center trained in Harley-Davidson and Rekluse ProStart repair and maintenance. The Rekluse ProStart clutch should be inspected for adjustment after 1,000 miles of operation. Thereafter, inspection for adjustment should be performed at 5,000 mile intervals

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