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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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2001-2003 XV16 Fuel Pump and Carburetor Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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Disconnect the carburetor fuel line hose at the fuel pump. •Disconnect the fuel pump wire coupler. •Remove the choke cable from fuel pump bracket. •Remove the upper engine mount, leaving the fuel pump attached to the mount. •Disconnect the TPS and carburetor wire couplers.       Disconnect the throttle cables, and then remove the carburetor. NOTE: The idle adjuster can be removed from its bracket without loosening the bracket screws. PAGE 3 of 12 HIDDEN 6mm SCREW 6mm BOLT UPPER ENGINE MOUNT/ FUEL PUMP CARBURETOR PAGE 4 of 12 Right-Hand Footrest Removal: •Disconnect and remove the brake light switch. •Remove the forward-most tie wrap around the brake hose and frame. •Remove the footrest assembly. NOTE: Leave the brake hose attached. Move the hose to the underside of the foot rest mount and support it as necessary so that it is out of the way Cylinder Head Oil Pipe Removal/ Installation: •Slightly loosen all three banjo bolts before removing them to prevent oil line deformation. NOTE: When loosening the upper banjo bolts, hold the line in place using a wrench at the flat surface on the fitting. Air Injection System (AIS) Removal: •Remove the electric starter motor. •Remove the regulator/rectifier assembly. Remove the AIS pipes from the cylinder head, but leave them attached to the AIS assembly. •Remove the three screws with 8mm heads, and then remove the AIS air filter from the right side. •Remove the three Phillips head screws holding    the AIS assembly on the frame. •Remove the AIS assembly from the left side. FOOTREST ASSEMBLY UPPER BANJO BOLT AIS AIR FILTER AIS ASSEMBLY
PAGE 5 of 12 Transfer Case Removal: •Remove the transfer case bracket first. Then remove the outer chrome cover, inner cover, and drive-sprocket nut. NOTE: There is a sealing washer between the inner case and the transfer case at the 8mm stud. Be sure to replace it during re-assembly. •Remove the two chrome oil lines between the engine and oil tank. NOTE: Retain the four O-rings for re-use. •Remove the drive pulley cover and remove the drive pulley nut. •Loosen the drive belt tension. •Remove the drive pulley, inner cover, collar, and O-ring. NOTE: The collar has a bevel on its inside diameter     for the O-ring facing inward and a bevel on the outside diameter facing the pulley. •Remove the drive and driven sprockets with chain as an assembly. •Remove the collar and O-ring. NOTE: Collar has a bevel on its inside diameter that faces inward for the O-ring. •Remove oil tank filler neck. •Remove the relay bracket on the right-hand side. NOTE: Leave the relays connected. Simply move them out of the way to allow room for transfer case removal. •Slide the transfer case out from the right side.

BMW Motorcycles New Boxer (R 259) Gearbox Repairs Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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cause: Gears are not correctly and fully engaged. The edges of the shift dogs and shift gears are rounded. Solution: Beginning with the 1997 model year, a modified set of gears has been introduced in production. Service Remedy: Installation of tolerance-optimized gears and shift forks is now possible. Parts: The installation of the optimized parts is to be done in accordance with the listing on the next page, based on the individual gearbox type and nature of complaint . We also recommend installation of the new “clean bearings” where applicable as noted. Clean Bearings: BMW has introduced deep-groove ball bearings which are sealed, therefore the bearings operate in their own lubricant rather than the gearbox lubricant. Clean bearings provide longer life expectancy and on some models provide the opportunity to extend gearbox lubrication intervals without reducing bearing life expectancy. Note: On a gearbox before the introduction of clean bearings, the layshaft roller bearing cannot be replaced with a ball bearing, since the ball bearing’s outer diameter is larger and the layshaft is longer. On the input shaft, we recommend always using the new ball bearing instead of the tapered roller bearing. Caution: New Shimming Procedure!

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Suzuki B-King GSX1300 BK Suspension Removal and Installation

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 01-12-2010

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Front Fork Removal and Installation B823H12206002 NOTE The right and left front forks are installed symmetrically and therefore the removal procedure for one side is the same as that for the other side. Removal 1) Remove the front wheel assembly. Refer to “Front Wheel Assembly Removal and Installation in Section 2D (Page 2D-4)”. CAUTION ! •Make sure that the motorcycle is supported securely. •Do not operate the front brake lever with the front wheel removed. 2) Disconnect the brake hose clamp (1) from the front fender. 3) Disconnect the brake hose (2) from the brake hose clamp. 4) Remove the front fender by removing the bolts (3) , left and right. 5) Remove the reflex reflector for E-03, 24, 28, 33. 6) After removing of the headlight cover upper screws (4), move the headlight assembly forward. 7) Loose the front fork upper clamp bolt (5). NOTE •Slightly loosen the front fork cap bolt (6) to facilitate later disassembly. •Be sure to adjust the rebound damping force adjuster (7) to the softest position before removing the front fork. 8) Loosen the front fork lower clamp bolts (8) and remove the front fork. NOTE Hold the front fork by the hand to prevent sliding out of the steering stem. Installation 1) Set the front fork to the front fork lower bracket temporarily by tightening the lower clamp bolts (1) . 2) Tighten the front fork cap bolt (2) to the specified torque. Tightening torque Front fork cap bolt (a): 23 N·m (2.3 kgf-m, 16.5 lb-ft) 3) Loosen the lower clamp bolts. 4) Set the front fork with the upper surface “T” of the outer tube positioned 3.0 mm (0.12 in) “a” from the upper surface of the steering stem upper bracket. 5) Tighten the front fork lower clamp bolts (1). Tightening torque Front fork lower clamp bolt (b): 23 N·m (2.3 kgf- m, 16.5 lb-ft) 6) Tighten the front fork upper clamp bolt (3). Tightening torque Front fork upper clamp bolt (c): 23 N·m (2.3 kgf- m, 16.5 lb-ft

Suzuki GSX1400FE CHASSIS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 17-12-2010

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REMOVAL SEAT Remove the seat with the ignition key. FRAM COVERS Remove the seat. (*Above) Remove the frame cover mounting secrews (left and right sides). Remove the frame covers by pulling on the hooked parts. PILLION RIDER HANDLE Remove the pillion rider handle by removing the pillion rider handle mounting bolts. SEAT TAIL COVER Remove the seat. (*Above) Remove the pillion rider handle. (*Above) Remove the seat tail cover mounting screws. : hooked part 6-4 CHASSIS Remove the fasteners.(*6-5) Disconnect the seat lock cable A. Disconnect the brake light/taillight lead wire coupler. Remove the seat tail cover. REMOUNTING Remount the seat, frame covers, pillion rider handle and seat tail cover in the reverse order of removal. www.GSX1400FE.co.uk
CHASSIS 6-5 FASTENER REMOVAL AND REINSTALLATION FASTENER REMOVAL Depress the head of fasteners center piece 1. Pull out the fastener. INSTALLATION Let the center piece stick out toward the head so that the pawls 2 close. Insert the fastener into the installation hole. NOTE: To prevent the pawl 2 from damage, insert the fastener all the way into the installation hole. Push in the head of center piece until it becomes flush with the fastener outside face.

HARLEY DAVIDSON HEATED HAND GRIP KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-02-2011

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REMOVAL Preparation To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow the instructions given to remove the main fuse. When servicing the fuel system, do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks in the vicinity. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. (00330a) 2. Remove the fuel tank according to the service manual instructions. -J04259 1 of 8 Left-Side Grip Removal 1. See Figure 1. Using a T-25 TORX drive head, remove the upper and lower switch housing screws (1). 2. Using a T-27 TORX drive head, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp (3) to the clutch lever bracket. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer. Loosen the clamp and position the clutch hand lever assembly away from the switch housing. Separate the upper and lower switch housings. 3. With “glueless” grip: Remove the grip from the handlebar. With glued grip: Remove the grip by carefully cutting it away from the handlebar using a sharp blade or knife. 2 2 1 5 4 3 1 is01283 1. Switch housing screws 2. Grooves 3. Handlebar clamp 4. Left handlebar grip 5. Larger diameter of flange Figure 1. Left Handlebar Switch Housing Right-Side Grip Removal Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) NOTE A section of corrugated cardboard or the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap can be used for this purpose. See Figure 2. 1. Place a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and the lever bracket. 2. Using a T-25 TORX® drive head, remove the upper and lower switch housing screws. 3. Using a T-27 TORX drive head, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the brake master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer. Loosen the clamp and position the master cylinder assembly away from the switch housing. Separate the upper and lower switch housings. 4. Remove the grip from the handlebar. NOTES The twist grip sensor in the right side of the handlebar has a seal cap that protects internal electrodes from dirt and moisture, and also serves as a retention device for the throttle grip. To remove the grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from the receptacle in the seal cap. Upon removing the grip, check the location of the seal cap. If the seal cap is still fastened to the index pins inside the old throttle grip, it can be discarded along with the grip. If the seal cap is still fastened to the end of the twist grip sensor: •See Figure 3. Insert a small screwdriver or other flat-blade tool into the flat area on one side of the seal cap. •Press the leg on the underside of the cap to free it from the slot at the end of the twist grip sensor. Pry up one end of the cap. •Repeat on the other side of the cap. •Carefully remove the cap and discard it

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HARLEY DAVIDSON LOCKING FUEL FILLER CAP KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Prior to installing the gas cap on the vehicle, insert the key into the lock. Firmly grasp the chrome top of the fuel cap and turn the key until it stops. On right hand threaded fuel caps, turn the key counter-clockwise until it stops. On left hand threaded fuel caps, turn the key clockwise until it stops. This assures an unlocked position for the gas cap. Allow the key to return to the neutral position. 2. Remove the key and install the fuel cap on the vehicle. is00770 Figure 1. Right Hand Threaded Fuel Cap Installation NOTE When installing the fuel cap, rotate the cap one full turn past the audible click. This automatically positions gas cap to lock position. A properly locked/installed gas cap will rotate freely in both directions. Failure to do so will give an incorrect assumption that the fuel cap does not work properly. REMOVAL On right hand threaded fuel caps, insert key, and while holding the gas cap in place with hand, turn key counterclockwise until it stops, return key to original position. Gas cap must rotate 270 degrees counter-clockwise before mechanism engages to allow gas cap removal. Continue to rotate counterclockwise to fully remove gas cap. On left hand threaded fuel caps, insert key and while holding the gas cap in place with hand, turn key clockwise until it stops, return key to original position. Gas cap must rotate 270 degrees clockwise before mechanism engages to allow gas cap removal. Continue to rotate clockwise to fully remove gas cap. REPLACEMENT KEYS Record the 4 digit key number stamped on the back of the key opposite the Harley-Davidson logo, in the area provided below. If a replacement key is needed, see your Harley-Davidson Dealer with the 4 digit number to order a replacement

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Harley-Davidson FLOATING BRAKE ROTOR (DISC) KITS Removal and Disassembly

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the maxi-fuse. Models WITHOUT maxi-fuse: To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the seat and disconnect the negative (black) battery cable from the negative (-) battery terminal. Retain all seat mounting hardware. NOTE For 2004 and later XL (Sportster®) models, the negative battery cable is most easily disconnected at the engine crankcase . Removal and Disassembly 2. Refer to FRONT WHEEL: REMOVAL or REAR WHEEL: REMOVAL in the Service Manual, and follow the instructions to remove the wheel from the motorcycle. Use a TORX® drive head to remove the screws retaining the currently installed brake disc to the wheel. The brake disc and screws can be discarded. 3. Inspect the wheel bearings per the PRELIMINARY INSPECTION instructions in the appropriate WHEEL section. Follow the DISASSEMBLY and CLEANING AND INSPECTION instructions as necessary to properly service the wheel. Reassembly and Installation Do not re-use brake disc screws. Re-using disc screws can result in torque loss and damage to rotor and/or brake assembly. (00319b) 4. Refer to WHEEL: ASSEMBLY in the Service Manual, and follow the instructions to install the new brake disc to the wheel, using the new TORX screws from the kit. Complete the ASSEMBLY instructions as necessary to service the wheel. 5. Refer to WHEEL: INSTALLATION in the Service Manual, and follow the instructions to re-install the wheel to the motorcycle. Return to Service 6. Verify that the Ignition/Light Key Switch is turned to the OFF position. 7. Models WITH maxi-fuse: Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to re-install the maxi-fuse

Harley-Davidson CHROME HANDLEBAR SWITCH CAP KITS installation and REMOVAL manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2012

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1. Open or remove seat according to the instructions in the Service Manual. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 3. Remove left and right-hand switch housing assemblies. Refer to HANDLEBAR SWITCHES in Service Manual. NOTE It is not necessary to disconnect the switch wiring to replace the switch caps. 4. Remove individual switches from switch housing. Refer to SWITCH REPAIR/REPLACEMENT in Service Manual. INSTALLATION Upper Housing Switches 1. For HORN and START switch caps, release torsion spring leg from hole in switch cap tab. Take note of how the spring is installed. The other leg of the spring can remain in the switch bracket hole. 2. See Figure 1 and Figure 5. Carefully pry stock black switch cap up off the splined actuator shaft (2) on left side of switch. -J02633 1 of 5 5 2 1 1 3 4 is 01405 1. Switch cap installed correctly 2. Switch cap removal from splined shaft 3. Switch cap removal from pivot pin 4. Switch cap installation onto pivot pin 5. Switch cap installation onto spined shaft Figure 1. Switch Cap Removal and Replacement 3. Pry the switch cap up and away from pivot pin (3) on right side of switch, and remove cap. NOTE Use the clear protective cover film to protect the chrome surface of the switch caps during installation. Remove the film after the installation is complete. 4. See Figure 5. Select proper chrome replacement switch cap from kit. 5. See Figure 1. Place cap onto switch, angling the hole on right side over pivot pin (4) on switch. 6. Carefully press switch cap down onto splined actuator shaft (5), rocking and moving the cap until shaft snaps into place in splined hole. 7. For HORN and START switch caps, insert torsion spring leg into hole in switch cap tab. 8. Toggle switch back and forth, checking for proper opera- tion. Turn Signal Switches 1. See Figure 1 and Figure 5. Carefully pry stock black switch cap up off the splined actuator shaft (2) on switch. 2. Pry the switch cap up and away from pivot pin (3) on switch, and remove cap. 3. Select proper chrome replacement switch cap from kit. Peel a clear protective installation cover from the sheet and place it over the surface of the cap. 4. See Figure 1. Place cap onto switch, angling the hole on top over pivot pin (4) on switch. 5. Carefully press switch cap onto splined actuator shaft (5), rocking and moving the cap until shaft snaps into place in splined hole. 6. Toggle switch back and forth, checking for proper opera- tion.

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Ktm 950 SMR Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 27-01-2012

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Be sure the triple clamp in your kit has a part # 3012R- 27 -6-0208 on the bottom side. This is very important. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Block it up properly to start with. 3. Block the front tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, so the tire cannot move forward. It’s best to tie the forks up to something above you, like the rafters, using tie downs, or a tie down from the front axle up and over the frame backbone and then underneath the lower triple clamp. Once the forks start to come off while working, it’s extremely difficult to get them back together without help. Block the back wheel up also, so it puts pressure on the front end, forcing it to stay in position. Spend the time setting this up correctly and your installation will go easier. 4. This kit requires removal of the headless “Security” bolts that hold the key switch in place. These bolts will need to be drilled out in order to remove them, pictures below. Removal is fairly easy, if you follow these instructions. 5. Examine all the wire and cable routing before removal and make notes of where everything goes. 6. Remove 2 bolts that hold the headlight shroud in place. Be careful not to lose the small bushings that fall out easily. 7. Follow the wire from the ignition switch to the wire loom in the headlight shroud and unplug it. There is no locking tab on this plug so you can usually undo it without having to disassemble the wiring. 8. Remove the 4 bolts that hold your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way (Bungie or tie to the front of bike). 9. Be sure the front end is securely blocked or tied to something above the bike. Remove the top triple clamp, taking note of how tight the 27mm main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact tension for the bearing. The main nut merely provides the correct tension on the head tube bearing, so the tension is critical. The nut will NOT be tight coming off. Once the fork and triple clamp pinch bolts are loose, the main nut can be removed. It’s difficult to get a wrench on the main nut. We were able to sneak the stock KTM axle wrench in there, otherwise, you may have to loosen the lower bar perches using an 8mm Allen wrench and a 17mm socket for the underside nuts. Once the main nut is off, lift the triple clamp off carefully , trying not to disturb the blocked-front-wheel. A rubber mallot is helpful here

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