HONDA 420 RANCHER 2×4/4×4 2007-2009 CLUTCH KIT INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

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Remove key from the ignition switch. Remove the side panels from both sides. Remove both foot wells. 2. Drain coolant. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; if you carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. 3. Disconnect shift motor (on electric shift models only). Remove coolant hoses. 4. Remove the bolts that mount the front differential to the frame, no other parts need to be removed. Carefully slide the front differential towards the front of the machine; you might need to lift up slightly to get the differential to move. Remove the drive shaft. Remove o-ring on output shaft (on motor). 5. Remove the fuel pump. 6. Loosen the front crankcase cover bolts, keep track of each bolt length and location. Slowly remove the crankcase cover. Carefully watch for o-ring shims and dowel pins that may fall out. 7. Unstake the nut holding the clutch on and remove nut. Using Honda tool #07933-HB3000A thread the large part of the tool into the center of the clutch. Tighten the center bolt on the tool while holding the large part of the tool with a wrench. This will pull the clutch off the machine. Place the clutch on a clean work surface. EPI performance.com
8. Using the c-clamps push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the four e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off, remove the round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see the complete spring. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or needle nose pliers and then remove springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers (45 degree bent pliers work well) pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the metal plates and the e-clips. If you can’t get the plates to sit flat make sure each clutch arm is flat against the bottom plate of the clutch. Occasionally when you put the springs on, the clutch arms will pop up. Slide the clutch into the machine. The Sprague clutch is marked “outside” when installing make sure this is facing out. Torque clutch nut to 87 ft/lbs. 9. Clean the gasket surface on the motor and on the cover. Put a thin layer of Honda Bond or Yamabond semi-drying liquid gasket (or something similar as long as it is semi-drying) on the crankcase cover. Carefully install crankcase cover, do not force cover on. Torque bolts to 9 ft/lbs. 10. Install the fuel pump. 11. Install the o-ring on the output shaft (on motor) and install the drive shaft. Carefully slide the front differential back into place and mount to the frame. Install the coolant hoses. Refill your engine coolant to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. 12. Install the oil drain plug. Refill your engine to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. Only use manufactures recommended oil. 13. Be sure to double check coolant and oil levels and to look for any leaks after the machine has run for a few minutes. 14. Go out and ride your machine. If your performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly. 15. EPI is constantly testing our products. Sometimes there is a need to contact the user with new technical information. To ensure that you are receiving this information visit our web site EPIperformance.com to register your clutch kit.

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2003 Honda Shadow Spirit 750 VT 750DC Custom speedometer dial installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 06-11-2011

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DO NOT REMOVE THE 3 PHILLIP SCREWS ON THE BACK OF THE SPEEDOMETER. This will unscrew the circuit board and the main components inside the speedometer, and possibly damage it. Just leave those 3 screws alone. They won’t make your customization any easier if they are removed. This is the hard part. Turn the speedometer face down on a soft towel on a sturdy table, bench, etc. I used a regular flat screwdriver to do this step. There is a chrome metal ring holding the glass on the speedometer. It is factory sealed. On the bottom side of this ring start prying with a flat screwdriver under the bottom lip of the metal ring. This will be a slow process (patience, patience, patience) so don’t get in a hurry and ruin the wife’s kitchen table like I did. Go around the metal ring with a flat screwdriver prying it up as straight as you can. It’s easier doing this every millimeter or two. I had to do this about 3 times all the way around the ring. After you pry the lip of the ring up all the way around enough to loosen it up considerably, gently pull the ring off of the speedometer. The glass should come off with it. Put the glass with the chrome ring aside for later. You might want to use a soft lint free towel to rest it on

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