YAMAHA TTR 125 SHOCKS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-01-2012

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1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure

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TOYOTA AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM SERVICE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 29-10-2011

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recent years, there has been a growing concern for the effects of chemical substances on the environment throughout the world. One of the substances that has attracted attention is the R-12 refrigerant used in automotive air conditioning (A/C) systems. The chemical name for R-12 is Chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) and it has been identified along with CFCs from other sources as being a contributing factor in the depletion of the ozone layer in the earth’s atmosphere. The ozone layer provides protection from the harmful effects of the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Consequently it is very important to minimize the amount of refrigerant released into the atmo- sphere. When servicing the A/C system it is mandatory to use a Toyota Approved R-12 refrigerant recovery machine (Toyota P/N 00002-01396-01 ) or its equivalent, and to use only the minimum amount of refrigerant necessary to test or charge the system. The actual repair of each model’s A/C system is detailed in the appropriate Toyota repair manual. However, to aid you in making quick, accurate diagnosis and repair of low refrigerant level conditions, the following inspection procedures have been developed

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HARLEY DAVIDSON EFI INTAKE MANIFOLD COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-04-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Remove screw (A) that holds the air cleaner cover (B) and seal (C). 2. Remove three T27 TORX® screws (D) to release the cover bracket (E) from the filter element (F). 3. Remove the filter element, pulling the two breather tubes (G) from hole on the inboard side of element. 4. Remove the two breather tubes (G) from the fittings on the two cylinder head breather bolts (I). 5. Remove the two breather bolts (I) and O-ring seals (K) from the air cleaner backplate (J) with a 7/16 inch deepwell socket. 6. Remove the backplate and gasket (H) from the injection module. 7. Aligning the flat edge of a new cover gasket (2) with the backplate molded tab, install a gasket (2), chrome cover (1) and second gasket, in order, on the air cleaner back- plate. 8. Install the breather bolts through the air cleaner backplate. Re-install O-ring seals onto each breather bolt. Install a washer (3) from the kit on each breather bolt. Apply Loctite 243 to the breather bolts and align holes in the backplate with the holes in the cylinder heads and install the breather bolts. Use a 7/16 inch deepwell socket and alternately tighten the breather bolts to 120-144 in-lbs (13.6-16.3 Nm) . 9. Slide gasket over the sleeve on the inboard side of filter element. 10. Install breather tubes about 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) into holes on inboard side of filter element. 11. Install breather tubes onto fittings of two cylinder head breather bolts. NOTE Air cleaner mounting without installation of the breather tubes allows crankcase vapors to be vented into atmosphere in violation of legal emissions standards. 12. Place the filter element onto backplate, with the flat side down, so that the hole on the inboard side of element fits over the molded boss in the backplate. 13. Align holes in cover bracket with those in filter element and start three screws. Stamp on cover bracket points downwards. Use a T27 TORX drive head, alternately tighten screws to 20-40 in-lbs (2.3-4.5 Nm) . 14. Make sure that the rubber seal is proper seated around perimeter of air cleaner cover and place cover on back- plate. 15. Fit the air cleaner cover onto backplate. Apply Loctite 243 to the threads of air cleaner cover screw. Install screw through cover and tighten to 36-60 in-lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm)

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