Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-05-2012
1. Remove mid and lower body panels Left and Right. There is a small plastic cover that is mounted over the main engine stud location on the left side. This cover requires a small notch to be cut out of the cover to clear the small end of the left side offset. Remove stock stud and mount the left side offset (with 10 X 1.25 X 60). Using a pencil, trace out the notch that you need to remove to clear the small end of the offset. We used a Dremel tool with a sanding roll and cleaned it up with an exacto knife. We removed a small amount of material at a time checking for clearance each time. The notch will not be visible after the body has been mounted. See photos below: 2. Once you have notched the small left side panel, mount the left side offset but only hand tight. You need to be able to move the offset by hand to its proper location. 3. Mount the left side bodywork and align the offset to the opening in the body. Mount the left side slider on the offset to ensure correct location. There is a flat notch in the slider so the body will clear. Remove the slider and body and torque down the offset to OEM specifications. (see above)
4. Mount the left side panel. Install the slider using one drop of blue thread locker and torque down to 30 to 32 ft lbs.
Incoming search terms:
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012
Installation Steps: 1. Remove left and right body panels. 2. Remove the left side engine stud. Mount the left side offset using 99-HB-SH10125080 Socket Cap 10 X 1.25 X 80 Main Engine Stud. Tip: Only tighten enough so you can still move the offset by hand. Loosely mount the left side body panel. Adjust the offset so the frame slider when mounted will clear the bodywork. There is also a groove cut in the offset, this is so the body can clear the offset. 3. With the offset in the correct position remove body and torque down to OEM torque specs. 4. Using one drop of blue thread locker mount the left side puck to the offset with 99-HB- SH10150045 Socket Cap 10 X 1.5 X 45 (Holds puck to offset). Torque down to 30 to 32 foot lbs. 5. Remove the right side engine stud. Mount the right side offset using 99-HB-SH10125080 Socket Cap 10 X 1.25 X 80 Main Engine Stud. Tip: Only tighten enough so you can still move the offset by hand. Loosely mount the right side body panel. Adjust the offset so the frame slider when mounted will clear the bodywork. There is also a groove cut in the offset, this is so the body can clear the offset. 6. With the offset in the correct position remove body and torque down to OEM torque specs. 7. Using one drop of blue thread locker mount the right side puck to the offset with 99-HB- SH10150045 Socket Cap 10 X 1.5 X 45 (Holds puck to offset). Torque down to 30 to 32 foot lbs. 8. Mount left and right bodywork
Incoming search terms:
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-11-2010
Remove the seat and air cleaner assembly, remove both front and rear gas tank mounting bolts. Prop the rear of the gas tank up approximately 2″. 2. Locate the factory connector on each fuel injector. Depress the clip on the connector and pull the connector free and move it out of the way. Note: A pair of needle nose pliers and a long flat blade screwdriver helps with this job. If you need additional access to the fuel injector connectors, you can remove the Idle Air solenoid by removing the two 5/16” bolts holding it on and loosening the Torx #20 screw on throttle cable bracket. Make sure to use blue thread-locking compound when refitting the two 5/16″ bolts and correctly position the o-ring when reattaching. 3. Lay the Fi2000R module in the area underneath the seat, do not attach it to the motorcycle, route the wire harness forward up the left side of the frame and across to the right side just ahead of the rear cylinder head, See Figure 1. Route the forward set of connectors under the upper motor mount. 4. Attach the Fi2000R module’s forward injector plug, with the grey and red wires to the front injector. Take the original female H.D. connector and insert the corresponding Fi2000R male connector, with the brown and red wires, into it, refer to Figure 2. 5. Attach the Fi2000R module’s rear female injector plug, with the blue and red wires, onto the rear injector. Then take the original female HD connector and insert the corresponding male Fi2000R connector, with the green and red wires, into it, refer to Figure 2. 6. Remove the right hand battery cover, route the black ground wire from the Fi2000R through the gap just under the frame and to the rear of the battery box. Attach the ring terminal to the negative post of the battery. Now cut the factory zip-tie holding the rear fender wire harness to the ECU bracket and pull that harness up and out of the way, see Figure 1.
Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010
Control Switch Box 2) Linear Actuator 3) On-board Computer Module 4) Proximity Sensor 5) Leg Support Stand 6) Leg/Wheel System 7) Hardware Bag 8) Actuator Bracket If you believe you are missing any parts, please contact Chopper Design at 407-834-5007, and we will rectify the situation. If you haven’t already done so, install the uprights (purple above) to the plate. These uprights bolt to the plate on the top with (4) 3/8″ bolts and lock washers. Once this is done, use a helper and gently slide the plate (red above) under the bike. The green brackets above will line up with the empty holes in the frame we use to secure the front of the plate. The next step is to swing the back of the stand up and line up the two uprights with the holes that held the bolts you removed from the floorboard supports (notice the right support has a curved clearance cut in it to clear the support!). Use 2 longer bolts supplied to go through the tall uprights, into the holes and threads on the bike (use some blue thread locker on these). DO NOT TIGHTEN YET! Next find 2 bronze colored bolts, 4 washers and 2 nuts. Put a washer on the first bolt, and push this bolt through the hole in the frame in front of the saddlebag support bar, and through the short forward uprights on the plate. Put a washer and a nut on the end, and repeat the same on the other side. We want the uprights to be as perfectly vertical as they can be, so set the plate up this way and just snug these two bolts a bit. Now tighten all the fasteners a little at a time, while trying to keep these upright vertical. There are a total of 10 bolts to tighten/check: 8 • The (2) bolts holding the uprights • The (4) 3/8″ bolts holding the uprights to the support plate • The (2) bolts that attach the front uprights to the frame. See the pictures below for a better look as to what it all looks like once installed