Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-05-2012
1. Remove mid and lower body panels Left and Right. There is a small plastic cover that is mounted over the main engine stud location on the left side. This cover requires a small notch to be cut out of the cover to clear the small end of the left side offset. Remove stock stud and mount the left side offset (with 10 X 1.25 X 60). Using a pencil, trace out the notch that you need to remove to clear the small end of the offset. We used a Dremel tool with a sanding roll and cleaned it up with an exacto knife. We removed a small amount of material at a time checking for clearance each time. The notch will not be visible after the body has been mounted. See photos below: 2. Once you have notched the small left side panel, mount the left side offset but only hand tight. You need to be able to move the offset by hand to its proper location. 3. Mount the left side bodywork and align the offset to the opening in the body. Mount the left side slider on the offset to ensure correct location. There is a flat notch in the slider so the body will clear. Remove the slider and body and torque down the offset to OEM specifications. (see above)
4. Mount the left side panel. Install the slider using one drop of blue thread locker and torque down to 30 to 32 ft lbs.
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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 12-02-2012
installation Instructions 1.) Stock Component Removal To begin installing this kit it is necessary to raise the rear end of the bike using a suitable hoist. Be sure to keep the bike centered on the front wheel to keep the bike from tipping over. Once you have the bike lifted and properly secured, begin with the removal of the following stock components ( For detailed information on the removal of these parts, please consult your factory manual) : 1.) Muffler or mufflers 2.) Left side and lower body panels 3.) Voltage regulator (08 model only) 4.) Front sprocket cover 5.) Front sprocket 6.) Chain 7.) Rear Axel, wheel and brake assembly 8.) Pivot tube and swingarm
2.) New Swingarm Installation A. Most of the pieces needed are installed on the swing-arm. You’ll need to install the shock mount block with the 4 supplied flat head 5/16″bolts, use red loctite and torque to 25 ft lbs. B. Insert the 2 supplied pivot bushings in the pivot tube. Move your new swingarm into position. Once you have the swingarm in position reinsert the pivot tube to hold it in place. C. On some bikes (07′ and earlier Busa’s) it is necessary to grind approximately 1/8″ off the frame for chain clearance. Not all bikes will require this, but it is best to mock up and test fit before final assembly.
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012
Installation Steps: 1. Remove left and right body panels. 2. Remove the left side engine stud. Mount the left side offset using 99-HB-SH10125080 Socket Cap 10 X 1.25 X 80 Main Engine Stud. Tip: Only tighten enough so you can still move the offset by hand. Loosely mount the left side body panel. Adjust the offset so the frame slider when mounted will clear the bodywork. There is also a groove cut in the offset, this is so the body can clear the offset. 3. With the offset in the correct position remove body and torque down to OEM torque specs. 4. Using one drop of blue thread locker mount the left side puck to the offset with 99-HB- SH10150045 Socket Cap 10 X 1.5 X 45 (Holds puck to offset). Torque down to 30 to 32 foot lbs. 5. Remove the right side engine stud. Mount the right side offset using 99-HB-SH10125080 Socket Cap 10 X 1.25 X 80 Main Engine Stud. Tip: Only tighten enough so you can still move the offset by hand. Loosely mount the right side body panel. Adjust the offset so the frame slider when mounted will clear the bodywork. There is also a groove cut in the offset, this is so the body can clear the offset. 6. With the offset in the correct position remove body and torque down to OEM torque specs. 7. Using one drop of blue thread locker mount the right side puck to the offset with 99-HB- SH10150045 Socket Cap 10 X 1.5 X 45 (Holds puck to offset). Torque down to 30 to 32 foot lbs. 8. Mount left and right bodywork
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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-03-2011
Prep the motorcycle for this job A. Park motorcycle on the center stand in a well-lit shop (Fig.A) B. Note: it is not absolutely necessary to remove the fuel tank and body panels. However, brake fluid is VERY CORROSIVE TO PAINT. We decided to be safe (Fig. B) and removed the lower fairing left and right rear sides, fuel tank, front fender, seat, and black A B plastic inner fairing front parts, battery cover, and rear master cylinder cover according to the owner’s manual. This also gives better access to the fittings. (Fig C) C. After safely storing the body panels and fuel tank, remove wind shield, (brake fluid, even a drop, will permanently mark any clear plastic), cover the dash and all gauges with a towel. II. Draining the brake fluid from the systems. A. A copy of the factory instructions has been included with this kit on how to properly and safely drain, fill and bleed the brake fluid from the brake systems. Follow the directions closely and remove the fluid according to the instructions. Dispose of the old fluid properly—DO NOT REUSE. B. If you purchased the clutch line, then perform the following steps (Fig D): In the bag marked Clutch Line: remove the left side lower body panels. Remove vehicle speed sensor, and remove the coolant C D tank. Remove the clutch fluid from the master cylinder on the left clip-on. Remove the fluid from the clutch line and slave cylinder. This factory line is NOT attached along the inner frame spar so here is a little trick that made this a 20- minute job including the bleed: 1. Remove the banjo bolts from the master cylinder and the clutch slave ends. 2. With a nice heavy wire tie, attach the slave end of the new braided line to the lever end of the factory line. Snip off the tail of the wire tie. Wrap this “joint” with electrical tape. 3. Pull from the factory slave end until you get the braided line end to the clutch slave. If it gets caught on something, try turning the end you are pulling from. 4. Remove the tape, carefully cut off the wire tie, install new sealing washers and bolts at both ends and torque to 17-21 foot/lbs. maximum. Bleed the clutch. III. Removing the factory front brake hoses and calipers – Front A. With the fluid drained and disposed of properly, loosen the bolts that hold the right caliper to the right fork leg (Fig E). Also remove the two 8mm bolts from the ABS front wheel speed sensor. Loosen all of the hose mounting blocks on the front forks on both sides; also loosen the blocks for the crossover pipe (Fig F) between the fork legs. Also loosen the frame pipe mounts and the mount for the front lever line that is also E attached to the right side of the frame. Loosen the left caliper mounting bolts (Fig G). B. Remove the calipers and remove the hose mounts under the lower triple tree. Remove the hard pipes from both the left and right hard pipe to soft line frame mounts on the frame (Fig. H). On the front ABS modulator remove the short soft line that is connected to the mount block. (Fig I.a. & I.b.) C. Carefully remove the
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010
Remove the stock muffler and rear cylinder head pipe as described in your owner’s manual. Retain the stock fasteners for MudSlinger installation. (Do not remove the front cylinder head pipe; this will be used with your new system). 2) Remove stock Heat Shield and retain for MudSlinger installation. 3) Remove and inspect the rear cylinder exhaust gasket. Retain or replace for MudSlinger installation. MUDSLINGER INSTALLATION: 1) Slide the 1 ¾ T-bolt clamp over the supplied Y pipe and attach pipe to MudSlinger muffler. (DO NOT TIGHTEN) 2) Slide the 1 ½ T-bolt clamp over the front cylinder head pipe. 3) Install the new Y pipe and muffler using the stock fasteners. Align the muffler with the rear mount point on the frame. (DO NOT TIGHTEN). 4) Tighten all clamps and fasteners starting with the two flange nuts at the exhaust port and working back to the muffler. 5) Re-install the stock heat shield. (NOTE: only 2 fasteners will be used to install the heat shield to the new system. Make sure to use medium strength Loctite on the 2 fasteners when installing). 6) Start and check for leaks then re-install all body panels. IMPORTANT: After a short test ride, check and retighten all fasteners as necessary. CLEANING & MAINTENANCE The Mudslinger system is manufactured from stainless steel and aluminum. Stainless steel is used for its high strength at high temperatures and resistance to corrosion. The aluminum is used for it’s weight and strength. Before you run your new SuperTrapp MudSlinger for the first time, clean all grease, fingerprints, and dirt from the entire system. (A good glass cleaner works well.) A clean, grease-free surface will allow even coloration. Over time, the MudSlinger will begin to take on a gold tint. The coloration will be relatively even throughout the entire system. The hotter you get the system, the darker it will become. Due to the unique properties of these materials, the care of the MudSlinger is minimal. The following instructions should be followed to maintain your MudSlinger muffler
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