KAWASAKI VOYAGER AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. Remove the false fuel tank cover to expose the battery. Remove the right hand lower leg fairing. (4 phillips screws). Unplug the stock horn and remove the (2) 10mm bolts securing it to the frame. 2. See photo #1 using the stock horn bolts attach the black horn mounting bracket and the white ground wire supplied as shown. Next locate the relay supplied. Plug the stock horn wires into the relay terminals #85 & #86. (see wiring diagram on back side of instructions) 3. Attach the air hose to the compressor air outlet fitting. Attach the short red wire supplied to the compressors positive (+) terminal and the white wire installed earlier to the compressors ground (-) terminal. As shown in photo #2. Attach the compressor to the frame with the hose clamp provided. Note: position the top of the compressor as shown touching the bottom of the horn mounting bracket and approximately 1 Ω” to the rear of radiator and shroud. Also the air hose and fitting should be in front of the frame tube with the hose routed inside the hose clamp without pinching the hose. Attach the red wire from the compressor to one of the relays remaining outer terminals #30 or #87. Attach the remaining long red wire (supplied) to the remaining relay terminal #30 or #87. Secure the relay to the frame with a cable tie supplied. Route the red wire up to the battery positive (+) terminal. Locate the fuse wire assembly provided. Attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the battery positive (+) terminal. Cut the red wire to the desired length, strip the end and crimp to the fuse assembly. Turn on the ignition and press the horn button, you should hear the compressor motor run. Re-install the false fuel tank lid. Re-install the right lower leg fairing while routing the air hose out next to the black horn mounting bracket 4. See photo #3, Bolt the horn set to the black mounting bracket using the 5/16 x æ”bolt, washer and lock washer provided. Trim the air hose to length if necessary and attach the air hose to the horn assembly. Install the trumpet covers. (see instructions enclosed with covers) Turn on the ignition and test the horns

HONDA VTX1300 FRONT FENDER BUMPER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 25-12-2010

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1. Carefully slide the bumper up into position (it will be necessary to flex the bumper inward to get the brackets over the fender mounting bolts. 2. Remove the 2 front bolts and replace them with the longer bolts supplied and next replace the 2 rear bolts. Tighten all 4 securely. 3. Install the 4 nuts supplied, before tightening peel the backing from the clear bumper supplied and stick it to the fender behind the center of the lower chrome front bumper rail, center the bumper left to right while keeping it down against the rubber bumper on the fender and tighten the 4 nuts securely.

HONDA VTX1300 RADIATOR COVER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-12-2010

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1. Remove the upper radiator cover bolts. 2. Hook on lower edge of chrome cover over existing radiator cover. 3. Align upper holes with existing holes. 4. Replace bolts

HONDA GL1800 ADJUSTABLE PASSENGER BOARDS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-12-2010

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• Fold up the stock passenger boards and remove the 2 allen bolts securing them to the frame on each side. • Remove the new boards from their packaging. Notice the left and right stickers on the back side of the base mounting plates. Pull the spring loaded pins outward and rotate the pin to hold them in the “locked out” position. Rotate the board on the base mount and link arm as needed to gain access to the mounting bolt holes. • Install the boards using the original mounting bolts and tighten securely. Rotate the boards to be level and at the desired height. Rotate the locking pins to align with the lock in slot. Rotate the boards and links slightly until the pins drop into the nearest hole or position. • After adjusting be sure the locking pins are fully engaged into their slot

How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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V-Star 1100 Floorboard/ Foot peg Extension Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Take notice of the position of the shift peg positions relative to the floorboard or foot-peg. You will be adjusting it back to these locations upon installation of the extended linkage. 2. Loosen the shifter rod jam nuts and remove the OEM shift linkage. 3. Loosen the floorboard/foot-peg assembly by removing the mounting bolts (14mm wrench) 4. Install the Extension Bracket using the OEM bolts and torque to 46 ft. lbs. Figure 1 shows how to orient the bracket relative to the front of the motorcycle. 5. Mount the floorboard/foot-peg assembly to the Extension Bracket using the SS hardware provided and torque to 46 ft. lbs. It is always a good idea to apply thread-locking compound such as lock- tite to ensure that the hardware does not vibrate loose while riding. 6. Remove the jam nuts from the OEM shift linkage and thread them gently on to the new shift linkage. 7. Install the new shift linkage by aligning the control swivel and the shifter swivel and turning the linkage. Be careful not to cross thread the linkage. The linkage will thread into both swivels simultaneously. Adjust to the desired position and tighten the jam nuts that you removed from the OEM linkage. Do not over-tighten or damage will occur to the threads. Right Side Installation: 1. Take notice of the Brake pedal position relative to the floorboard/foot-peg before removal, as it will need to be readjusted upon installation of the kit. 2. Remove the cotter pin from the brake linkage and remove the clevis pin. The brake linkage will now be separate from the brake pedal assembly. Do not discard anything. 3. Loosen the floorboard/foot-peg assembly by removing the mounting bolts (14mm wrench) 4. Install the Extension Bracket using the OEM bolts and torque to 46 ft. lbs. Figure 1 shows how to orient the bracket relative to the front of the motorcycle. 5. Mount the floorboard/foot-peg assembly to the Extension Bracket using the SS hardware provided and torque to 46 ft. lbs. It is always a good idea to apply thread-locking compound such as lock- tite to ensure that the hardware does not vibrate loose while riding. 6. Loosen the jam nut from the brake linkage and remove the linkage bracket. 7. Assemble the threaded brake linkage extension to the coupling nut and tighten using one of the provided jam nuts. Don’t forget the thread locking compound if your using it. 8. Thread the coupling onto the brake cylinder linkage and install the other end of the assembly into the brake pedal end. Tighten the jam nuts. You should be able to adjust the linkage for proper brake pedal location before tightening the jam nuts. 9. Readjust the brake light switch and your ready to roll

Triumph Mity Max Single Phase PCM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 30-10-2010

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The output of the Power Control Module is 12 volts for Triumph, BSA and Norton, etc. Polarity is determined by which wire is grounded. (Black for negative ground; red for positive ground) The output of the PCM should be connected to the battery or ignition switch. The PCM case is electrically isolated from the circuitry and does not require grounding. The case must be tightly mounted to some part of the motorcycle that does not vibrate more than the frame and the case must not be allowed to rub or vibrate againt any other component. Tighten the mounting bolts down until there is no free movement. Do not attempt to shock mount the PCM. The guarantee covers defects in workmanship or materials only; defaced or abused PCM’s will not be repaired or replaced without cost. The date stamped on the PCM is the month and year of warranty expiration. (55 would be the end of the 5th month of 2005) Units are warrantied for two years from the date of manufacture

Triumph Seats are functional and firm Installation

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Un-pack the accessory pack from under the new seat. 2. Remove the stock seat from your bike. 3. From the underside of the stock seat, remove the 2 metal hooks fixed by a single bolt to the seat pan. There is one metal hook on each side, as shown in the photo, right. The securing bolt also holds the safety strap on some seat types. 4. Replace the stock bolt on the old seat. 5. From the underside of your new Retro Racer Seat remove the 2 bolts provided each side of the seat pan, as shown in the photo below. 6. Fit one metal hook each side, making sure they face the same direction as on the stock seat. 7. If it is wished to remove the safety strap (Grey Top and Black seats only) do so at this point: NOTE: Removing the Safety Strap makes the bike suitable only for Solo use. 8. Remove the accessory pack from under the seat. Fit the rear brackets to the rear of the seat, as shown in the photo, right. 9. The rear fixing lugs are bolted to the seat pan, not moulded as on the stock seat. The photo below shows the attached bracket. 10. Tighten so that the bracket is held, but not tight, then test fit on the bike. 11. When properly lined up remove the seat and tighten all the bolts to 12Nm 12. Finally re-fit the new seat, using Jenks Thumb Bolts for preference: Standard Length: SBB (Black) 02 SBN (Nickel) 02 Hidden Length UTB (Black) 02 UTN (Nickel) 02 NOTE: Regularly check the Bolts are tight, approx 20Nm, which is about as tight as can be made using fingers on the knurled grip. Do not tighten with pliers. For added security, lock washers may be used if desired

Laminar LaMini Fairing Mounting Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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Mounting Instructions for the Laminar LaMini Fairing The Laminar LaMini Fairing is designed to mount onto motorcycles having up to 7 inch round headlights and traditional instruments. It is attached to the motorcycle with four clamps, two on each fork tube between the triple clamps. If you plan to paint the fairing be sure to fit it first. Make sure that the front turn signals do not obstruct installation of the
LaMini Fairing. If the turn signals are located between the triple clamps relocating or replacing the turn signals may be desired. When fitting the fairing the greatest potential for damage to your motorcycle lies with the clamps or the back ends of the fairing touching the gas tank when the steering is turned to lock. Monitor this possibility each time the handlebars are turned until installation is completed, padding the front of the tank with some towels is a good idea. Let’s get started 1) Attach the shield to the rear side of the fairing with rubber washers between them, using nylon fasteners. Wrap two clamp gaskets around each fork tube. Unscrew the clamps and slip two of each around each fork leg. The worm screws should be at rear of the fork tube. Slip a clamp gasket between each clamp and fork and finger tighten the clamps. The ž”x ū ” bolts should be sticking straight out to the sides. Center the clamps spaced 3 inches apart between the triple clamps. Carefully turn the handlebars to lock in each direction to assure that the clamps do not touch any other parts of the motorcycle. If the clamp worm gears interfere the clamps may be reversed with the worms at the front side of the forks but this makes tightening or adjusting them with the fairing mounted very difficult. 2) Test fit the fairing (shown upside down in the top photo) over the headlight and in front of the instruments. Try to leave a spacing of ž inch everywhere. If required the fairing may be trimmed to match the gap to the headlight. Do the sides of the fairing cover the ž”x ū ” bolts so that
holes to be drilled through the fairing will securely receive the bolts? Looking from the side of the fairing and with the fairing located with the center above the headlight move the rear of the fairing up and down to determine the best fit to the motorcycles lines. When

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2000-2002 Aprilia Mille INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1) It is a good idea to use Blue Loc-tite on all bolts you are about to remove and replace. 2) This kit has extremely close tolerances and in order for all the parts to clear the triple clamp and gas tank, you will probably have to loosen and align most of the associated bolts. We have tried very hard to make this as compact as possible but we know the factory tolerances vary from bike to bike. Be patient, the results are worth it. 3) Remove both front fuel-tank retaining bolts. You will use the longer bolts provided in our kit. 4) Install the frame bracket (part #22-6036-03) that mounts to your front (2) tank bolts holes. The frame bracket sits on top of the stock tank spacers. The frame bracket is offset. This means it fits correctly only one way, with the offset toward the triple clamp, part numbers facing forward, (see photo below). Due to the tight clearances on this model you’ll want to be sure the frame bracket does not make contact with the tank itself. It’s easier to start the tank bolts if you lift up on the tank slightly, while starting the new bolts into their threaded hole. Tighten the new tank bolts to 6 ft lbs. and use Loc-tite. 5) Remove the large 14mm Allen nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. You will not re-use either one. 6) Install the new “Triple clamp damper mount” Part # 22-2925-00 into the recess area where the stock Allen head bolt was sitting. There is a machined recess or built-in-washer on the bottom of our mount to match the recess on your triple clamp. The 2 nubs that hang down, should match the rear contour of your triple clamp precisely. Use loc-tite and retighten the new 14mm Allen nut provided to your factory torque specs, usually a minimum of 35 ft lbs. and maximum of 85 ft. lbs. Do not use the stock washer that was under the original 14mm nut. 7) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole portion of the frame bracket. The tower pin is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin lightly greased! It should not touch the gas tank on the bottom side. 8) Install the stabilizer using the (2) 6×20 Allens with the slot in the link arm matching the tower pin. 9) Since the tank is rubber mounted at the rear, you want to be sure it won’t push forward and rub the frame bracket. After riding the first time, be sure the tank has not shoved forward by your body making contact with it. Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the tower pin, it might be smart to put something between the tank and tower pin to protect the tank. 10) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit, at 8 clicks out on the base valve, is a good starting point.