2002-2007 HONDA VFR 800 NSTALLING GALFER BRAKE LINE KIT

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-12-2011

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Remove the clutch fluid from the master cylinder on the left clip-on. Remove the fluid from the clutch line and slave cylinder. This factory line is NOT attached along the inner frame spar so here is a little trick that made this a 20- minute job including the bleed: 1. Remove the banjo bolts from the master cylinder and the clutch slave ends. 2. With a nice heavy wire tie, attach the slave end of the new braided line to the lever end of the factory line. Snip off the tail of the wire tie. Wrap this “joint” with electrical tape. 3. Pull from the factory slave end until you get the braided line end to the clutch slave. If it gets caught on something, try turning the end you are pulling
from.4. Remove the tape, carefully cut off the wire tie, install new sealing washers and bolts at both ends and torque to 17-21 foot/lbs. maximum. Bleed the clutch

2002-2007 HONDA VFR 800 WITH ABS GALFER BRAKE LINE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Prep the motorcycle for this job A. Park motorcycle on the center stand in a well-lit shop (Fig.A) B. Note: it is not absolutely necessary to remove the fuel tank and body panels. However, brake fluid is VERY CORROSIVE TO PAINT. We decided to be safe (Fig. B) and removed the lower fairing left and right rear sides, fuel tank, front fender, seat, and black A B plastic inner fairing front parts, battery cover, and rear master cylinder cover according to the owner’s manual. This also gives better access to the fittings. (Fig C) C. After safely storing the body panels and fuel tank, remove wind shield, (brake fluid, even a drop, will permanently mark any clear plastic), cover the dash and all gauges with a towel. II. Draining the brake fluid from the systems. A. A copy of the factory instructions has been included with this kit on how to properly and safely drain, fill and bleed the brake fluid from the brake systems. Follow the directions closely and remove the fluid according to the instructions. Dispose of the old fluid properly—DO NOT REUSE. B. If you purchased the clutch line, then perform the following steps (Fig D): In the bag marked Clutch Line: remove the left side lower body panels. Remove vehicle speed sensor, and remove the coolant C D tank. Remove the clutch fluid from the master cylinder on the left clip-on. Remove the fluid from the clutch line and slave cylinder. This factory line is NOT attached along the inner frame spar so here is a little trick that made this a 20- minute job including the bleed: 1. Remove the banjo bolts from the master cylinder and the clutch slave ends. 2. With a nice heavy wire tie, attach the slave end of the new braided line to the lever end of the factory line. Snip off the tail of the wire tie. Wrap this “joint” with electrical tape. 3. Pull from the factory slave end until you get the braided line end to the clutch slave. If it gets caught on something, try turning the end you are pulling from. 4. Remove the tape, carefully cut off the wire tie, install new sealing washers and bolts at both ends and torque to 17-21 foot/lbs. maximum. Bleed the clutch. III. Removing the factory front brake hoses and calipers – Front A. With the fluid drained and disposed of properly, loosen the bolts that hold the right caliper to the right fork leg (Fig E). Also remove the two 8mm bolts from the ABS front wheel speed sensor. Loosen all of the hose mounting blocks on the front forks on both sides; also loosen the blocks for the crossover pipe (Fig F) between the fork legs. Also loosen the frame pipe mounts and the mount for the front lever line that is also E attached to the right side of the frame. Loosen the left caliper mounting bolts (Fig G). B. Remove the calipers and remove the hose mounts under the lower triple tree. Remove the hard pipes from both the left and right hard pipe to soft line frame mounts on the frame (Fig. H). On the front ABS modulator remove the short soft line that is connected to the mount block. (Fig I.a. & I.b.) C. Carefully remove the

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Kawasaki KLR 650 Hydraulic Clutch Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Now, the clutch safety interlock switch. The picture above shows the safety switch contacts. Once you removed the 2 screws holding it to the stock lever, you will need to cut the copper plate on the switch. There are 3 wires: Green, Black with yellow and Blue. You do not use the green wire. You will need to attach the supplied terminals to the remaining wires and slip the supplied rubber boot over them as you attach them to the hydraulic clutch lever. In the photos, the boot is installed and also removed, and with my finger, I am pointing to its location. I did not bother to install the clutch interlock switch and removed the wiring harness completely, but unplugging it from the connector behind the instrument panel. Next, you must remove the clutch cable from the lever in order to pass the cable under the steering head he picture above shows the attachment at the clutch actuator Once the clutch cable is removed from the lever, remove the bolt holding it at on the engine case and disconnect the clutch cable from the pivot. The easiest way to do this is to pull out the clutch pivot assembly and the long “spike” out of the clutch plate hole. (It only goes back in one way, so you can’t mess it up.) he picture above shows that the routing is the same as the original clutch cable. With the hydraulic clutch assembly, pass the stainless steel braided line to the clutch “pivot” point at the engine casing. Attach the clutch cable to the “pivot” while it is removed from the engine, then insert the “spike” into the clutch plates hole (it can only go in one way).