2000-2003 KTM MXC / EXC Dual Sport Kit Installation And Removal Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 08-02-2012

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00-’03 KTM 400/450/520/525 EXC & MXC Dual Sport Kit Installation Manual 1. Get a degree in Mechanical and Electrical Engineering. (Just kidding!) 2. Remove the seat, fuel tank, and side panels. Stock switch Bracket Photo 2 EXC – Unplug and remove the stock headlight. (Photo 2.) Unplug the stock three-pin taillight connector and pull the taillight wires back to the rear of the airbox temporarily. MXC – Remove the stock front number plate. 3. Make sure the stock battery is oriented in its mounting bracket as shown with the positive terminal on the left side of the bike (as viewed if sitting on the bike). If not, remove and spin it 180 degrees. Photo 3
4. MXC ONLY! (EXC skip this step.) Locate the stock lighting wiring harness zip-tied under the frame back-bone (See Photo 4). Remove the securing zip-ties and route this wiring forward to the area behind the headlight. Route along right side of frame using factory wire- guide clamp. 5. Brake Light Switch Installation: The KTM kit uses a hydraulic brake-switch. This requires replacing the rear master cylinder banjo bolt with a specially made switch. Installing the switch requires bleeding the brake. If you do not feel competent bleeding your rear brake, please refer this job to a qualified mechanic, as failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable. Remove the stock banjo bolt and replace with the hydraulic switch as shown. Make sure to install

2000-2003 KTM MXC / EXC Dual Sport Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 01-02-2012

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Get a degree in Mechanical and Electrical Engineering. (Just kidding!) 2. Remove the seat, fuel tank, and side panels. Stock switch Bracket Photo 2 EXC – Unplug and remove the stock headlight. (Photo 2.) Unplug the stock three-pin taillight connector and pull the taillight wires back to the rear of the airbox temporarily. MXC – Remove the stock front number plate. 3. Make sure the stock battery is oriented in its mounting bracket as shown with the positive terminal on the left side of the bike (as viewed if sitting on the bike). If not, remove and spin it 180 degrees. Photo 3 4. MXC ONLY! (EXC skip this step.) Locate the stock lighting wiring harness zip-tied under the frame back-bone (See Photo 4). Remove the securing zip-ties and route this wiring forward to the area behind the headlight. Route along right side of frame using factory wire- guide clamp. 5. Brake Light Switch Installation: The KTM kit uses a hydraulic brake-switch. This requires replacing the rear master cylinder banjo bolt with a specially made switch. Installing the switch requires bleeding the brake. If you do not feel competent bleeding your rear brake, please refer this job to a qualified mechanic, as failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable. Remove the stock banjo bolt and replace with the hydraulic switch as shown. Make sure to install

Ktm CRF-230 Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 27-01-2012

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Partially install the headlight assembly using the top right white zip tie only to hold it in place temporarily. You will need to plug wires to this assembly. Step 5: Install handlebar switch on clutch side. You will need to move clutch perch to the right (about ½ inch to1 inch) to make room for the switch. The switch plugs into the circuit board on the bottom of the headlight using the 8-pin plug (the only unused 8-pin one on the circuit board) Step 5: (Power harness) The power wire with the two pin plug runs from the battery to the 6 inch wire hanging from the control board. The red wire should be attached to the positive and the black wire to the negative of battery. You will need to notch the battery cover so the wire can fit with the cover closed. Step 6: (Taillight harness) The wire with the six pin plug is for the tail light. Run the wire down the left side of the bike. If you plan on using a front hydraulic brake switch use the front connectors and continue at Step 7A. If you are planning on using a mechanical rear brake switch use the green pair of connectors and continue at Step 7B. You can use both

YAMAHA ROADLINER / STRATOLINER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 04-01-2012

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1. Cover the right frame tube in front of the exhaust with duct tape or any suitable material to protect frame during exhaust removal. 2. Remove the three capscrews holding the muffl er assembly to the support bar, loosen the muffl er clamp and carefully remove the muffl er from the motorcycle. 3. Remove and save the two 12mm bolts from the right side fl oorboard assembly (Figure 1) and carefully lower the fl oorboard out of the way. NOTE: Support the fl oorboard with a block of wood or other appropriate material, do not let it “hang” by the brake switch wire. 4. Remove the chrome cover over the power valve pulley. Using a 10mm wrench, remove both cables attached to the power valve pulley (Figure 2). 5. Remove and save the 5mm capscrew on the rear side cover to gain access to the O2 sensor harness plug and unplug O2 sensor from harness (Figure 3). 6. Remove the 4 nuts holding the exhaust system and carefully remove the exhaust system from the motorcycle (may require assistance). NOTE: It may be necessary to loosen the heatshield clamps to access the nuts on the front cylinder. 7. Trace the power valve cables to the drive motor (just under the rear fender on the right side). Remove the power valve cables and mounting clips from the motorcycle. 8. Using a 22mm wrench, carefully remove the O2 sensor from stock exhaust system and save for reuse with the new system. 9. Remove the plastic cover over the clutch banjo bolt (Figure 4). 10. Check the stock exhaust gaskets to be sure they are in good shape. If you have any doubts as to their condition, replace them

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Yamaha Roadliner And Stratoliners Brake Pedal Relocation Kit

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. This kit replaces the original rear brake actuating rod that connects the pedal to the master cylinder (see photo 1A) and the brake light switch spring (see photo 1B). Remove the two allen screws which attach the switches mounting plate to the frame (1C). Remove the spring. 2. Remove the cotter pin and washer from the forward end of the rod where it connects to the brake pedal (photo2A). Slide the rod over off of the brake pedal. Unscrew the rod from the threaded stud on the master cylinder. 3. Thread the new rod onto the stud until the end of the stud appears in the middle of the small sight hole that is cross drilled thru the rod (1D). Place the forward end of the rod back onto the brake pedal. Next check the distance between the bottom of the brake pedal and the top of the floorboard, this should be approximately 1 ¾”. If not, slide the rod off the pedal and thread it in or out to adjust the pedal height. With the rod on the pedal re-install the washer and cotter pin (Note: the cotter pin should go into the hole from the top down) then bend the cotter pin open. 4. Replace the brake light spring with the new one supplied. (Pushing down on the switches rubber cover will push the pin out). Re-install the switch bracket. Turn on the ignition and adjust the threaded collar on the brake switch so that the brake light comes on just as you feel some resistance when pushing on the pedal (when the brakes begin to drag).

YAMAHA FZR 400 ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-11-2010

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CHECKING OF SWITCHES Check the switches for the continuity between the terminals to determine correct connection. Read the following for switch inspection. SWITCH CONNECTION AS SHOWN IN MANUAL The manual contains a connection chart as shown left showing the terminal connections of the switches (e.g., main switch, handlebar switch, brake switch, lighting switch, etc.) The extreme left column indicates the switch positions and the top line indicates the colors of leads connected with the terminals in the switch component. “C’&-0″ indicates the terminals between which there is a continuity of electricity; i.e., a cl.osed circuit at the respective switch positions. In this chart: “R and Br” and “L/W and L/R” are continuous with the “ON” switch position. “B and B/W” is continuous with the “OFF” switch position. “B and B/W” is continuous with the “LOCK” switch position. “B and B/W” and “R and L/R” are continuous with the “P” switch position. CHECKING SWITCH FOR TERMINAL CONNECTION Before checking the switch, refer to the connection chart as shown above and check for the correct terminal connection (closed circuit) by the color combination. To explain how to check the switch, the main switch is taken for example in the following

2001 HONDA CRF 230 Dual Sport Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, side panels, and front number plate. 2. Taillight and Turn signal Installation: Note that Baja Designs has updated this kit to use the new style LED taillight. The mounting is the same. Mount the rear taillight assembly to the rear fender as shown in Photos 1 and 2. Transfer drill the mounting holes in the taillight assembly into the fender and mount using the countersunk fasteners provided. The tail light lens should just line up with the end of the fender. Mount the turn signals into the side of the taillight assembly as shown in Photos 1, 2 and 3. The taillight has not been pre-drilled to allow placement of the turnsignals to be varied to accommodate different exhausts. Use a 3/8″ drill for the turn signal mounting hole 3 Photo 3 Photo 2 Photo 1
. 3. Brakelight Switch Installation: This is a tight fit on the CRF230 – take your time and it’ll work. Drill a 1/8″ hole in the brake lever 4 ½” from the center of the brake pedal pivot point (Photo4). 4 Photo 5 Drill 1/8″ hole here Photo 4 Install the brake-switch bracket under the right case bolt directly above the oil filler cap (Photo 5). Attach the spring to the hole you drilled in the pedal. Adjust the switch in the bracket so it engages about halfway through the pedal throw. You may need to lengthen (stretch) the spring slightly to allow proper switch adjustment. Turn-Signal Switch Installation: Install the turn signal switch on the handlebar next to the grip as shown in Photo 6 . The switch has a single screw that pinches it together on one side. Two tabs secure the switch halves on the other side. Remove the screw to separate the halves so that it can be installed on the handlebar. When installing the switch to the handlebar, make sure the tabs are seated in their locating holes and then tighten the pinch screw. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THIS SCREW, as too much force can strip the body of the switch. The clutch perch may have to be moved inward slightly to make room for the switch. Run the wires along the bottom of the handle

Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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Vespa PE/ PX Part Installation

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Filed Under (Vespa) by admin on 28-10-2010

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Section 2 – Engine Section 3 – Clutch Section 4 – Gearbox / Kickstart Section 5 – Gear Selector Section 6 – Rear Axle / Axle Bearing / Axle Seals / Gears Section 7 – Flywheel / Stator / Points / Condensor Section 8 – HT Coil Section 9 – Fuel / Oil Systems Section 10 – Starter Motor Section 11 – Rear Wheel / Rear Brake Section 12 – Exhaust Section 13 – Frame / Legshield Trim / Legshield Badges Section 14 – Centre Stand / Stand Feet Section 15 – Seat / Bag Hook Section 16 – Fuel / Oil Tank Section 17 – Horncover / Horncover Badges Section 18 – Side Panels / Panel Badges / Spare Wheel Cover Section 19 – Toolbox / Toolbox Lock Section 20 – Steering Bearings / Bearing Races / Steering Locks Section 21 – Forks / Fork Covers Section 22 – Front Suspension Section 23 – Rear Suspension Section 24 – Front Brake / Speedo Drive Section 25 – Floor Strips / Floor Rubber / End Caps Section 26 – Front Mudguard / Mudguard Crest / Flashes Section 27 – Front Hub / Front Hub Bearings / Hub Seals Section 28 – Hand Grips / Hand Levers / Gear Change Tube Section 29 – Handlebar / Speedometer Section 30 – Throttle Tube / Front Brake Switch / Master Cylinder Section 31 – Brake Pedal / Pedal Rubber Section 32 – Cable Set / Gear Cable Section 33 – Clutch Cable / Throttle Cable Section 34 – Speedo Cable / Choke Cable / Rear Brake Cable Section 35 – Wheel Rim / Rim Nut Section 36 – Headlight Section 37 – Taillight Section 38 – Light Switch / Rear brake Switch / Horn / Ign Switch Section 39 – Indicators / Indicator Switch / Flasher Unit Section 40 – Regulator / Battery Strap Section 41 – Wiring Loom Section 42 – Starter Relay

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APRILIA RSV4 POWER SHIFT NRG-RSV4 installation manual

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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WIRING INSTALLATION 1. Unfold the Power Shift wiring, as it is shown by the figure to place the main connector in the area where to secure the IS-MODULE, the black wire eyelet in the proximity of the battery negative pole and the 12V red power supply wire around the battery to reach the connector of the rear brake switch, as it is specified by the figure. The connectors with the label relative to every single cylinder shall be positioned as it is shown 2. Connect the Power Shift connectors with those of the corresponding coils by following the label on the supplied cable and the position of every single cylinder, just as it is specified by the following images Connect the red power supply wire with the connector of the rear brake switch, as it is specified by the figure, and the ground ring with the negative battery pole

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