2004 CM And King secondary shaft bearing retainer

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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There is a slim chance (but possible none the less) that the secondary shaft bearing retainer (screw) can back out of it’s intended position. If this retainer comes out of position it can cause an immediate stop to the motorcycle and has to potential to cause substantial damage to the engine. The early button head screw (with high strength thread locking agent) has been replaced with a black oxide bolt, lock washer, and high strength thread locking agent.

SUZUKI M109 1800 cc EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat and right side fairing cover (with M109 insignia), behind the fuel tank. To remove the fairing, release the plastic peg on top by pushing the center inward and pulling the fairing upwards until the peg releases, remove the M6 button head bolt at the bottom of the fairing. Pull the fairing outward from the rear and upward near the plastic peg to release it. Once it is free from all plastic pegs pull it forward to release it from the bottom of the fuel tank. 2. Remove the right side cover above the exhaust-mounting bracket secured by one M6 button head bolt, retain bolt for later. Remove the chrome steel cover above the exhaust secured by two remaining bolts, (this chrome piece will no longer be used.) Remove the large left rear rubber grommet and flanged steel collar from this chrome piece, to do this press the steel collar out of the rubber grommet first, once the collar is removed push the rubber grommet out of the wire loop on the chrome piece, set aside for later use. 3. Locate the exhaust valve actuator solenoid and harness and disconnect the black 3-prong electrical connector and white 2-prong electrical connector. 4. Remove the socket head bolts securing exhaust flanges to cylinder heads, set these fasteners aside for later use in reassembly. Support the weight of the exhaust system and remove the 2, 8 mm bolts and one 8 mm nut securing the exhaust mounting bracket and exhaust assembly. Keep these fasteners for use later. Remove the stock exhaust system as one complete unit; this includes the stock exhaust bracket, headpipes and muffler, exhaust valve solenoid and cables. 5. The exhaust valve actuator solenoid must now be removed from the stock exhaust-mounting bracket. To perform this, loosen the two nuts securing each cable to the exhaust valve cable-mounting tab, Position A in Figure 1. Make enough slack in the cables so that the ends of the cables’ threaded sheath may be disengaged from the end of the mounting tab. Now remove the two M6 hex head bolts securing the solenoid to the stock exhaust bracket. The stock exhaust mounting bracket, headpipes and muffler and exhaust valve solenoid cables will not be used anymore with the your new Cobra Exhaust System. 6. Remove the dust cover from the solenoid to expose the rotating cam and cables. DO NOT TRY TO ROTATE THE CAM RELATIVE TO THE ACTUATOR SELENOID TO REMOVE THE CABLES; DOING SO MAY DAMAGE THE INTERNAL COMPONENTS OF THE SOLENOID. To remove the cables from the cam, use the slack in the cables obtained in Step 5 to disengage the cable barrels from the cam, see Figure 1. THE DUST COVER WILL NOT BE REINSTALLED. 7. Now prepare the exhaust valve actuator solenoid for reuse. SECURELY HOLD THE CAM TO PREVENT IT FROM ROTATING IN THE SOLENOID. WHILE PREVENTING THE CAM FROM ROTATING, remove the 10 – 32 flange bolt securing it, see Figure 2. Replace the cam with the Cobra supplied cam, BE SURE TO PREVENT THE CAM FROM ROTATING WHEN REINSTALLING THE BOLT, OTHERWISE DAMAGE MAY OCCUR TO THE SOLENOID , see Figure 3. Torque to factory specifications.

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YAMAHA V-STAR 1300 exhaust system INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Install the bracket (Stamped 439-P, supplied) to the motorcycle chassis using the 10 x 20mm hex head bolt (supplied) and two of the stock mount bolts in the bottom holes (Figure 3). 2. Remove exhaust system and heat shields from protective packaging and place them on a non-abrasive surface such as a blanket or carpet. Using a non-permanent marker or tape, mark outside edge of each heat shield to show location of mounting clips that the hose clamps will loop through (Figure 4). 3. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads of the stock O2 sensor and install it into the header assembly. NOTE: Be careful not to overtighten or get anti-seize compound on the sensor tip as this could damage or affect the sensor function. 4. Carefully lay header assembly into the heat shields and loosely install the hose clamps #20 on head pipe heat shields and #24 on collector heat shield (supplied) by feeding the tail end of the clamp into the heat shield clips. Take note of screw head direction (Figure 5), for adjustment purposes they must be accessible when system is installed. NOTE: Do not tighten the clamps at this time. 5. Using stock dome nuts, carefully install system into exhaust ports. (Assistance may be required). NOTE: Install but do not tighten the exhaust nuts at this time. 6. Remove the muffl er heat shield and baffl e assembly from their protective packaging. Place them on a non-abrasive surface such as a blanket or carpet. 7. Insert the large hose clamp (#56, supplied) into the clip on the muffl er heat shield. 8. Carefully slide the baffl e assembly (without damaging the fi berglass packing) into the muffl er heat shield and align the holes in the heatshield with those in the baffl e. Secure the baffl e with the 1/4-20 x 1/2″ button head screws (supplied) and tighten the hose clamp. 9. Install the 5/16″ x 1 1/4″ hex head bolt, washers and locknut (supplied) in the muffl er clamp (supplied) and slip the clamp over the end of the baffl e tube. 10. Slide nut plate (supplied) inside the bracket welded to backside of baffl e (Figure 6). 11. Install the muffl er assembly onto the collector, making sure it slides forward enough to align the edge of the bracket welded to the baffl e with the edge of the mounting bracket. 12. Attach the muffl er assembly to the mounting bracket using the 5/16″ x 5/8″ fl ange head bolts (supplied). 13. Tighten exhaust port nuts evenly on both cylinders. 14. Tighten the muffl er clamp and the 5/16″ fl ange head bolts, securing the muffl er assembly. 15. Insert the O2 sensor plug back into harness and tuck harness back into its original position. Reinstall the cover. 16. Check alignment of heat shields making sure the ends meet squarely to the collector heat shield. Tighten the hose clamps on all the heat shields when properly aligned. 17. Reinstall right side passenger and rider fl oorboards and tighten the 12mm bolts. 18. Check for adequate clearance between all exhaust system components and motorcycle accessories prone to heat damage. 19. All hardware must be properly tightened and the exhaust pipes thoroughly clean before starting motorcycle

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2000-2007 BMW F650GS Adapter Installation Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1. Remove both of the rear stock luggage rack screws with a Torx wrench. 2. Install the Rear Frame Grabber by sliding it up under the rear fender and in front of the stock luggage rack mounting tabs. 3. Attach the Rear Frame Grabber with the 2 replacement M8 screws (stock ones are too short). The tabs on the Rear Frame Grabber should face outward toward the rear of the bike (see A in picture). Torque both screws to 110in.lbs. 4. Install the Rear Adapter as shown. 5. Attach the Rear Adapter with 2 5/16 Button Head Screws. Torque both screws to 110in.lbs. 6. Remove the motorcycle seat and remove the 2 torx screws shown in the picture. 7. Install Frame Grabber Nuts under the passenger grab bar mounts. The long end of the nut goes to the rear of the motorcycle. 8. Support the nut under the mount with your fingers and attach the Front Frame Grabber with a 5/16 Button Head Screw. 9. Reinstall the Torx screws to attach the plastic side cover of the motorcycle. There will be some overlap of the plastic cover and the Front Frame Grabber. 10. Install the Front Adapter. 11. Attach the Front Adapter with two 5/16 Button Head Screws and Locking Nuts. Snug but don’t tighten the screw until after you have installed the Front Main Arm. 12. Reinstall the Seat and compartment cover. Depending on the year of your motorcycle you may need to push the rear of the seat forward to get it around the Front Adapter. It’s a close fit, but it will fit. A B D J C E F G H F

How to change a fuel filter on 1998 Ducati ST2

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1. On a cool bike, parked on center-stand, remove the two button-head bolts securing the key cover on the top of the fuel tank. Set cover aside, and save bolts, they will be used later. 2. Remove the seat 3. Un-hook front clip holding the tank down. 4. Lift tank upward, rotating on rear pin, and place prop-rod in place to secure tank in upright position. (If possible, you may want to find a longer prop to put the tank at a higher angle. This allows the fuel pump to be a bit more accessible. I used a long piece of rod iron, and propped the tank up by its rubber side bumpers.) 5. Pad the area directly under the fuel pump very well with paper shop towels or other very absorbent materials, as gas will likely drip. 6. Disconnect the electrical connector going to the fuel pump.
7. There are two fuel lines going to the fuel pump. One is marked with a white collar that has the letter R on it, the other has a M . Take note of which is which. The R line goes in the middle stem, and the M connects to the stem that is closest to the outside edge of the tank. It is a good idea to take a permanent marker, and write a ” R ” and ” M ” near these connections on the bottom of the fuel filter so as to not forget. 8. One at a time, loosen the hose clamps on the lines, and remove them from their stems. Some fuel will spill. It will stop however; have plenty of paper-towels close on hand. (The hose clamps should be 7mm) Also remove the small gas overflow tube that is attached to the fuel pump. 9. Remove the rear latch that the tank rotates on, and lift the tank off of the bike. 10. Lean the tank forward so as to move the gas forward, and remove the drain plug at the very rear of the tank with a 5mm Hex Key

2007-2008 Kawasaki ER6 and Ninja 650R Lowering Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Raise the motorcycle so the rear wheel is off the ground. As an example, you can use a motorcycle lift, two car jacks, or upside-down paint buckets placed under the foot pegs, but anything stable should do. ” Stable ” is the key word. Please take all precautions! 2) Using the 19 mm open wrench and the provided 8 mm hex wrench, loosen the button head bolt and locknut as shown This large washer will not be there on 2007 & 2008 models 3) Next, remove the locknut and the small washer from the back, and remove the button head bolt and the large washer from the front. You can pull out the button head bolt by slightly moving the rear suspension up and down at the same time. 4) 5) Lift the shock absorber and insert the spacer where the shock absorber was installed before. Note: The original bolt and washers (if any were on your bike) are not going to be used, but you should keep them for the future, in case you decide to uninstall the lowering kit. Slide over the main kit body and insert the provided hex head cap screw as shown Next, slide the provided hex head cap screw all the way through

Kawasaki Teryx Dash Frame Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The BRP Dash Frame mounts in place of the factory cup holder/storage pocket. Remove the screws holding the cup holder or storage pocket from the back of the dash and remove it. Hold the Dash Frame up on your dash. The top of the frame includes a channel that your dash slips into to provide support. Press the frame firmly up and against the dash. Be sure the frame is centered and straight. Using the frame as your template drill out the two top holes using a 13/64″ drill. Each hole is located at the top corner of the frame. Alternatively, you can mark the location of the holes, then drill them out with the frame removed. Using the smaller button head bolts supplied with this kit, along with the nylock nut and rubber backed washer, mount each of the two top corners of the frame. Use caution when tightening however. The angle of the dash frame is different than the angle of your plastic dash. The two bolts are only needed to snug the frame against your dash. You should only snug the bolt up, but don’t tighten it down. Looking from the back of the dash, you’ll see that the rubber washer does not lay flat against the plastic of the dash. This is correct. Again, these bolts are only to snug the frame against your dash and should not be tightened down. Doing so could damage your dash. The supplied nuts are nylock and will not back off even though the bolt is not tightened.

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